The Gallery
- homeboy
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- Full Name: Jake Dobbins
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Re: The Gallery
Dee-Dubb....they look great! Thanks for sharing!
Jake
Jake
What one man has done....another can do.
- dw
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Re: The Gallery
Thanks, Jake. Against all odds.
DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
A bit of fancy Roman-ness from the history department ;-)
This pair is made after one of two quite similar finds (no.s 220 and 221) from one of the wells at the Saalburg castell, dated to the 2nd cent AD. The cut and decoration of the uppers is so similar, yet different, that it seems likely that they came from the same workshop if not from the same hand.
The finds were made more than a hundred years ago and the details of the construction are not entirely clear. The decoration is an elegant mix of circular holes, triangles, squares, darts and slits. Here I'm following the suggestion of Marquita Volken by further enhancing the decoration by stitching with coloured thread and bands woven through the slits.
As the original sole does not survive, the nailing pattern is taken from contemporary finds. At a total of more that 1500 cutouts and slits I guess we can safely count this pair among the heavily decorated Roman shoes.
This pair is made after one of two quite similar finds (no.s 220 and 221) from one of the wells at the Saalburg castell, dated to the 2nd cent AD. The cut and decoration of the uppers is so similar, yet different, that it seems likely that they came from the same workshop if not from the same hand.
The finds were made more than a hundred years ago and the details of the construction are not entirely clear. The decoration is an elegant mix of circular holes, triangles, squares, darts and slits. Here I'm following the suggestion of Marquita Volken by further enhancing the decoration by stitching with coloured thread and bands woven through the slits.
As the original sole does not survive, the nailing pattern is taken from contemporary finds. At a total of more that 1500 cutouts and slits I guess we can safely count this pair among the heavily decorated Roman shoes.
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Re: The Gallery
This is the third pair of shoes I've finished. The toe cap is too sort, facings are too far back and there is a little too much space under the vamp, but they are much better than my previous pairs. Overall fit is surprisingly good, considering I have no idea what I'm doing when modifying lasts.
Handwelted, soles hand stitched at 8spi, "commando" half soles cemented on.
Handwelted, soles hand stitched at 8spi, "commando" half soles cemented on.
- homeboy
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Re: The Gallery
Dang.....pretty smart looking! You're on your way now!
Great job!
Adios, Jake
Great job!
Adios, Jake
What one man has done....another can do.
- dmcharg
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Re: The Gallery
Nice work Arttu and Martin.
That's a lot of work and complexity for your third pair of shoes, Arttu. Keep it up. The fact they are better than your previous pairs says you are learning and moving forward. Something we all need to constantly do.
Hey Martin, I've loved the shape and beauty of those old Germano/Roman shoes since coming across them in shoe archaeological books I have. You've done a magnificent job.
Cheers
Duncan
That's a lot of work and complexity for your third pair of shoes, Arttu. Keep it up. The fact they are better than your previous pairs says you are learning and moving forward. Something we all need to constantly do.
Hey Martin, I've loved the shape and beauty of those old Germano/Roman shoes since coming across them in shoe archaeological books I have. You've done a magnificent job.
Cheers
Duncan
Re: The Gallery
pictures of my job and a link to a "step by step" of this job
http://travail-du-cuir.fr/coordonnerie/ ... t1591.html
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Re: The Gallery
DW, may I ask what leather did you use for these? Would normal calf work? or some more stretchy leather like goat skin?
- dw
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Re: The Gallery
I used a piece of 'orphaned' calf--I don't really know what it was in terms of tannage or who it came from. When you've been making footwear for near-as-nevermind 50 years, you tend to accumulate stockpiles of trial hides and samples and just leather that didn't suit the particular order.
You've heard the old saying--"the shoemakers kids go barefoot?"This was one of those--the shoemaker never uses the prime stuff for his own shoes.
I think it was a retan, if truth be told. And it was "struck-through". It was a little stiff and hard to completely eliminate the pipes around the heel.
I suspect a nice chrome Annonay might work a little better.
I've never seen goat I would want to make into a man's dress shoe...nor, if the truth be told, to use for much of anything except perhaps inlays.
You've heard the old saying--"the shoemakers kids go barefoot?"This was one of those--the shoemaker never uses the prime stuff for his own shoes.
I think it was a retan, if truth be told. And it was "struck-through". It was a little stiff and hard to completely eliminate the pipes around the heel.
I suspect a nice chrome Annonay might work a little better.
I've never seen goat I would want to make into a man's dress shoe...nor, if the truth be told, to use for much of anything except perhaps inlays.
DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
Thanks for the info DW!
I am rather a starter in shoe making, now finishing my second pair. However I always like to make a pair of seamless sometimes in the future. I have got some very nice chrome grain leather, hope that help to hide the pipe a bit.
One more question about the build, when you mention 1" heel, does it measure from the upper of seat? or the lower surface layer where the leather sole finishes.
I am rather a starter in shoe making, now finishing my second pair. However I always like to make a pair of seamless sometimes in the future. I have got some very nice chrome grain leather, hope that help to hide the pipe a bit.
One more question about the build, when you mention 1" heel, does it measure from the upper of seat? or the lower surface layer where the leather sole finishes.
Re: The Gallery
I finished this pair recently. Sole stitching isn't very clean, but in general they are an improvement.
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Re: The Gallery
Looks like a sturdy pair. Like DW likes to say, "Select three things to improve on the next pair" and go for it.
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- homeboy
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Re: The Gallery
Nothing wrong with this one either! Keep'em coming!
What one man has done....another can do.
- dw
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Re: The Gallery
Full cut Annonay calf, size 13, slight antiquing on vamps and outsoles.
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DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
greetings, first post after a long time lurking and recent full-time dedication to making.
Here is my 2nd pair since returning from Carreducker's class in October.
These are handwelted and all hand sewn and stitched (uppers and soles) Cheap suede and kid skin lined. I really hosed the dying of the welts as it wicked to the uppers (mostly hidden in photos)
I'm Taking away way more than 3 lessons from this pair so... I guess that's 'overachieving'
Here is my 2nd pair since returning from Carreducker's class in October.
These are handwelted and all hand sewn and stitched (uppers and soles) Cheap suede and kid skin lined. I really hosed the dying of the welts as it wicked to the uppers (mostly hidden in photos)
I'm Taking away way more than 3 lessons from this pair so... I guess that's 'overachieving'
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