Tools of the Trade

[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

PROXY POSTING for Pablo Vasquez:

Now, as to the Whitcher thing, Frank W. Whitcher Co. , Boston , mfg'd tools , and among other items, size sticks. He likely acquired licenses,etc., from inventors which prompted marking pat'd dates on "Crispin" hammers for instance until the patent duration expired. Apparantly, manufacturers continued to stamp the patent dates long after necessary either to avoid retooling or as a cool marketing " trade mark ".The Ross catalog clearly displays the patent dates on the Crispin. One, 2 Jul 1872, is for the Clark patent for " checkering .. with elongated teeth.." In other words, fine holes in close proximity so as to catch even small tack heads on each blow of the hammer.That's the only claim. Second date on that hammer must deal with a obscure feature I can't discover... yet.

[jonathon]

G'day all.
Heres one for the western bootmakers out there.
While skipping through Sharon DeLano's "Texas Boots" today I came across page 44 & 45. On these pages is a photo of "A bootmakers tools". I'm stumped as to what one of them is (and what it is used for) Its the one second down on the right.
It has a wooden handle with what looks like a type of coiled spring inserted into it. My apologies to those without the book. Its hard to describe these things.
This has been bugging me ever since first seeing it many years ago. Please, somebody put me out of my misery!

Cheers.
Jon.

[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

Jonothan,

The mystery tool in that photo is a "shank burnisher", for the sole surface. The bit that looked like a wooden handle to you is in fact the polished [it's supposed to be] iron burnishing part. The coiled wire is the actually the handle. These were designed to be used heated, like the two-handed bottom and shank irons we've been discussing, and were designed to rest over a gas jet for keeping them heating. The coiled handle was so you could pick it up--like the old tea kettles, etc., with coiled wire handles--without burning yourself.

[crispinian]

Ok, so these are not exactly tools. Let's call them equipment. The seat below is one I made for my own use when I was working in the restored 1827 shoe shop. It's a copy, of course, made of yellow pine. At the time of this photo I hadn't yet glued the stropping leather on, but that's what the stick nailed to the front edge is for.

The other gizmo is a handmade reproduction 19th century worklight, commonly referred to nowadays as a waterlens. Shoemakers used these to work by at night or on cloudy days. You fill the glass globes with water then light the candle in the center of the shelf and each globe acts as a lens to concentrate the light on the work. Four globes, four work positions. It works quite well. This one went to live with the Sagutos but I still make them from time to time.

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[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

Rusty,

That cherry waterlens is a prize posession, and is sitting among the Queen Anne dinning room furniture. I dare not use it in the shop, it'll get dirty, or worse...broken. I thought it was copied from that old German guy's, c.1790s?

[dw]

Just for reference, here are some tools that are important in a boot shop--not necessarily in a shoe shop--or at least in *my* shop. The first is a "lapjack." Most last are made with a "thimble" built into the top of the last. The lapjack has a spindle on top that fits into the thimble on the last. This steadies and secure the last in a position that is comfortable to work on...ie. in the lap. the bootmaker must "clamp" the base of the lapjack between his feet and hold the last with his knees in order to work "hands free." Preparing the insole (channeling and such) is done with he last on the lapjack. Lasting is done with the lapjack. Both inseaming and pegging *can* be done on the lapjack, although it's a pain in comparison to using an "inseaming jack"...

Which is depicted in the second photo. Sometimes known as a "lasting" jack, I don't know anyone that actually lasts with this type of jack. Here there is a spring loaded spindle which hold the last solid and secure to the forepart brace. This makes for truly "hands free" work although the base still needs to be steadied, at least, with the feet.

There are other kinds of lapjacks and inseaming jacks, most notably those that are meant to be used while in a standing position, but the basic principles are the same and since I don't I don't work standing up, I don't have photos.

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Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[dw]

Again, for reference, and again, not necessarily essential to a shoemaker, here is a photo of a crimping board and a crimping iron (or "screw" ). The vamp leather is stretched over the crimping board to open it up and impart a "sprung" shape to it so that it mounts more easily on the front panel of a boot top.

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Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[jonathon]

Thanks Al.
Well there you go! I had it all ass backwards.
I'll sleep better tonight.

Cheers
Jon.

[Tex Robin]

DW,
I know now why you can't get your heel measurements from your lasts. You are using the wrong measuring system. At least the wrong system if you want to find your heel measurements on your lasts.
You see, the way I measure with the foot flat on the measuring paper, my heel measurements are about an inch larger than with your system. When I measure a mans foot that is a size 8 1/2 D his heel measurement says 13 1/4 and my 8 1/2 D last says 13 1/4. When you measure him you get 12 1/4, and you just can't get a 12 1/4 heel measurement on an 8 1/2 D. This just dawned on me today when I was talking to Lee miller about heel measurements. He mentioned this and I had never looked at it this way before. I just couldn't figure why you couldn't find the heel measurement on your lasts.

With my method, if you send me your last I can make you a pair of boots that will fit you without knowing your actual heel measurement. Of course you would have to send me a deposit first. TR

[dw]

Tex,

You may be right about that. I've always been curious as to why the foot measures so much larger when placed on the floor than when hung off the knee. Sure, I understand that bones splay and flesh compresses, but there is a fixed (relatively) mass/volume to the foot and it seems near miraculous that that volume could change so radically.

But knowing that does little to address my basic objection--that the modern last does not rise high enough in the cone to cover the front of the ankle. I don't know how you measure the foot and more specifically the short heel, but the front of the ankle is where I locate the short heel. So for me at least, I cannot find the short heel measurement--as a one to one correlation--on the last. I can check and find out what the short heel measurement of the last is, but not exactly in the same way or in the same place as on the foot.

That said, I could do the same thing--if you sent me the last that fits your foot I could make a perfect fitting boot off it without knowing your measurements. Be aware that I have a three year waiting list and am only taking earnest money deposits at this time ($75.00). This will put you on the waiting list but not lock in your final price. I am doing this so that if a bear chases me up a tree (at my age I might be a long time getting down) or I get abducted by aliens my poor wife will not have a huge burden of deposits to return.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[Tex Robin]

DW,

Well, I've tried to explain . Maybe you are just making the whole thing too complicated. I have no problem with it at all...TR

[dmcharg]

Whew, over 125 contributions in a week to this one thread. Ain't you fellas got homes to go to? or more to the point, no boots and shoes to make?

My twice weekly at the library can't keep up with this.

Duncan "gotta take some speed reading lessons" McHarg

[dw]

This is a spirit lamp. It has a proprietary heel seat iron on it. I use the heel seat iron and then I use a heel seat wheel afterwards.

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Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[dw]

Another mystery tool...no fair, Jake!

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[admin]

All,

Maybe this was just too hard or too obscure, at any rate. But I would have expected at least some guesses...?

Anyway the last mystery tool is a tongue crimping device for lace up boots. This pre-forms the tongue in those styles that want a full gusset tongue. It works slick..eliminates awkward seams and hassling with "easing in the excess."

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[shoestring]

Questions,I came by a knife that was made by Osborne this knife is about 9in. long including the handle but the shaft on the blade is 6" but the actual cutting section it's self is turned up an is only 1 1/2" long what type of knife is this and it's purpose,also I have a pair of last with size 0 marked on them with no nail holes and the bottoms are flat is that the way they are suppose to be. Thanks in advance,Ed.

[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

My favorite hammer, a hand-forged "London" pattern from the late 18th or early 19th c. Beechwood handle is a replacement, but note the "button"
end. This detail is shown is the Essex pattern books from the 1790s-1800s, and apparently what they came with when brand new--but I've never seen one with its original handle surviving.

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Analog Al

[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

A close up of the pane of the same hammer showing the typical "after market" mushrooming the owner did to blunt the edge, so you can use it without cutting or scaring the leather.

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[MichaelAnthony]

Al,

Well, I may not have handstitched, But I did get to swing Janne's "TOR" hammer. What a pleasure that was. Also, he did give me instructions on the correct temperature for the welt stitch marker and how to use the "mid-wife." Do you know what kind of tool that is?

However, no matter the amount of education that I received about handstitching, I am quite sure that it will take a lot of time and patience before I can actually feel good about the job I do.

BTW, it is much too soon for me to where a mini skirt, but as soon as I am able, perhaps you would like to give me a "hands on" demonstration of handstitching?

Tool de do, to you.

Michelle Antoinette

[rosynay]

Al:
Since getting interested in boots I have acquired about a dozen old hammers and one new French hammer. In my hammer collection there is one which looks identical to yours and also has a replacement handle. It is very crude looking but it is hard to say if it is hand forged or not. The underside of the face which is large has had some grinding. Among the collection there is one Barnsley "London Pattern" and another with no insignia. There is also an antique "French: pattern and a hand forged "German" pattern with a touch mark which resembles a small
starburst. The only hammers I don't have and want are a beatdown hammer and a closer's/paste fitter's model. Anyone with any extras may send email. Otherwise I will send pictures when I learn how.

[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

004: My tiny beating-out hammer, inherited from Peterkin.

005: The face of the beating-out hammer.

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[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

007: Somebody's patent pegging hammer. It works, but is it ever hard to
hit the bull's eye.
008: Close-up of the business end of the pegging awl and rebound spring.

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[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

009: French hammer--a real beauty from Wild Bill Julian, tool-finder par
excellence.
010: The mark on the pane of the French hammer. Anybody have any clue
what manufacturer this is?

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[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

011: My Swiss pattern hammer, from the Volkens--not to be taken in your
carry-on luggage.
012: An old German pattern hammer, hand-forged, with a Diderot-esque 18th
c. French handle replacement courtesy of ex-CW blacksmith, and bagpiper,
Jay Close.

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[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

013: My pride, a C. Hammond, Philadelphia "cramping" [not crimping] hammer
for beating the sole into the curved heel-breast of ladies' wooden heels.

015: The C. Hammond showing, [or is that "shewing" Frank], the "T" bar pane that marks a cramping hammer.

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