Cinema Verite

[dw]

Thank you, Duncan, for the streaming versions of these last two videos of yours. Both are really interesting and professionally done...and enlightening as well.

We're getting quite a collection of "streamers" (see the first page of this thread). This is exactly what the CC exists for.

[martin]

That's a great video, Duncan! Thanks for that!
Btw. found one for myself as well for 50 euros, medium condition, still have to sharpen it properly and try it out.

[dmcharg]

G'day all,
I've made a quick vid. of my hand sewn butt seams, using 'Apron Cam.' I'm still stuck with the hamstrung iMovie, so all narration had to be done while filming, which was a bit distracting at times for me. And I picked up, for a few dollars at an Op Shop (think Thrift Shop in the U.S.), one of those tiny, bendy, Gorilla Pod style tripods, with which I can stick one leg down the front of my apron, and have the other two legs as stabilisers and mount my iPod just in front of my mouth for filming (hence the, loud enough but, sort of whispered tones of my voice). Life over the last couple of years hasn't been conducive to high output of shoemaking, so my butt seaming is a little rusty in it's parallelism of the two rows of stitches, but at least it seems that getting the depth right is a bit like riding a bike.
Hope you enjoy it.
Cheers
Duncan
P.S. as you can see, I have no objection to using small, fine, pig's bristles. If you are a user of bristles for inseaming and welts, and you don't use the finer ones, lets talk. I am hoping to be doing finer and finer sewing as time goes on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBpTx4FW0H0

[martin]

Great video there, Duncan - enjoyed watching it!

Thanks,
Martin

[dmcharg]

After months of having the latest update for iOS iMovie, and finding out that it was hamstrung by not allowing (for iPod and iPhone) post production narration, I bit the bullet today and my wife and I carefully followed the Charles Proxy 'how to' here http://www.idownloadblog.com/2015/12/25 ... -ios-apps/ and I now have the version 2.2.2 of iMovie ios for my iPod so I can, again, do post production narration (up to three tracks, all with their own volume control, in addition to the original video's sound and volume control). Very happy. Never going to update iOS iMovie again The new one still has narration abilities for iPad, but not iPod or iPhone. I just have an iPod. If you download the, older, version 3 of Charles it will be a lot closer to what is on the tutorial, though some of the 'buttons' aren't on the main window but in the drop down menus. I watched the tutorial a few times and then had it playing on another screen while I followed it. Once finished and successful you delete Charles from the system, as it's a 30 day free trial.
Yay.
Cheers
Duncan

[carsten]

Classic Oxford Shoes HANDMADE in Japan

Quite detailed and nicely done I find. Just wondering: No shank for fiddle waist shoes? See 17:00.
Enjoy.

[nickb1]

Interesting video. I think he does not show the shank going in but it's there. The filler shown seems only to be cork which would not be strong enough. I wonder about the very thin, wide channels that are cut even in the forepart, almost horizontal, and extending several mm further back than the stitching groove. Aren't these going to wear through more quickly than an angled channel? Doing it this way is all over instagram but I don't see any practical advantage, only disadvantages. Unless with a wider surface to glue the channel is less likely to unstick and flap around? Also the bevelled waist flap on the sole goes some distance over the top of the welt, and is then seemingly pressed in between the upper and the welt with several passes of various tools. Is that normal?
Nick

[carsten]

Not so sure about the shank. I have always used a metal shank, but now I read in Max Sahms book (page 60) : "The shank area should be made bendable and also flexible to the sides. The more narrow and flatter (thinner) the shank is, the less resistance it puts up against the natural movement of the foot and the more it contributes to the strengthening and health of the foot. Also a flexible shank prevents the overstepping to the outside, since it does not limit the three-way movement of the foot. Thereby also the continuous fight between shoe and foot is eliminated, which results in toe deformation, skin- and nail damages. Less known is also that an elastic shank area prevents ugly wrinkles in the ball area of the upper, in other words a (somewhat) flexible shank area determines the fitting of the shoe significantly.." Sahm apparently preferred to used only a leather piece in the shank area.

@dw and @das what do you think about it? Do we need metal shanks?

[nickb1]

not much experience, but I've only used metal shanks on boots, with the slightly higher heel than shoes. No problems so far with shoes and leather shanks. Have also used them on boots with a 1 inch heel with no problems apparent after 3 years. If you stood on the waist on a ladder though, there would presumably be problems that you wouldn't get with a metal shank. Can't say I find the metal shank ones less comfortable but some people apparently do. e.g. one London workshop I heard switched to metal shanks as standard in shoes and have now gone back to leather because some people felt they were not flexible enough.

[carsten]

Interesting @nickb1 . I have seen people using wooden shanks. To me metal was the natural choice, because I thought that a wooden shank could, when stepping on a ladder or something similar, break and thereby loose its purpose entirely. With a leather shank of course you would not have that problem. What kind of leather are you using then: a piece of sole leather or some other veg tanned leather you use for the stiffeners?

[nickb1]

Hi Carsten,
I use insole shoulder. This is both firm enough and flexible. The west end makers traditionally use just this for shoes. glass the grain off first, use it grain side in contact with the insole, since you will skive some away and keeping the grain side intact adds strength. I was not taught to mellow and beat it to firm it either, as is done with heel and toe stiffeners, but I've noticed that some of the makers on HCC do that. It won't break but it could weaken and fold if you stood on the waist on a ladder. Historically it seems a piece of leather was strapped to the underside of boots if you had to dig in them too, perhaps for this reason or to preserve the surface.

[carsten]

Thanks Nick,

will try that with my next pair. I guess I will peg it anyway like I did with the metal shank to prevent creaking.

Like that I will be able to pass the metal detector again at the airports. If flying is still an option once the shoes are finished with these sky rocketing fuel prices ....

[carsten]

Here is a nice video on pleated boots:

www.servustv.com/volkskultur/v/1294908486710-303832185/