Shoe machines

[mlharris]

Hello Supply Forum......Looking for bench sole press....something similar to my attached pic....its a dinosaur but understand would work for prototyping womens shoes. Thanks in advance for any responses

[johnl]

Due to a change in status, I am having to downsize quickly. A lot of my tools and stuff must go Can anyone help me establish a fair price on the following:
Singer post machine with almost new dc motor. Sews great.
Tippman Aerostitch Great shape
Landis 12 Dirty, need cleaning. I have never used it. Sewed well when I bought it, just been sitting. The only issue I know of is channel knife blade. Either needs one, or the one it has needs adjusting. Can't remember.
Singer model 29k patcher with treadle stand.
5 in 1
2 shoe presses
Singer 31-15 head only

The equipment is located in Memphis TN.

[admin]

Just to forestall any possible problems...all quotes or selling advice that involves estimates of value on this equipment would be best kept to private mail or email.

It would probably be OK but it's borderline, so...a word to the wise.

Emmett

[jbcustom]

May I post a link to equipment I have on Craigslist?

[admin]

Guild policy:

"As long as prices are not mentioned/haggled over on the CC...notice of sales are fine."

Emmett

[jbcustom]

As a regular buyer and seller of good used machinery, I have posted a current list and pictures of several of pieces I have available. Please visit it at: http://denver.craigslist.org/bfs/5148633680.html

[banksy686]

Hello everyone, I've been making shoes for about 6 months now, and so far, I've been doing everything by hand. I've decided it's time to upgrade to a sewing machine. I'm leaning towards Techsew, and I'm trying to decide between the 810 and the 830 models. As far as I can tell the big difference is that the 830 is top and bottom feed, whereas the 810 is bottom feed only. Is having top and bottom feed worth the extra money , and will it make easier work for my unskilled hands?

[dw]

Hello everyone, I've been making shoes for about 6 months now, and so far, I've been doing everything by hand. I've decided it's time to upgrade to a sewing machine. I'm leaning towards Techsew, and I'm trying to decide between the 810 and the 830 models. As far as I can tell the big difference is that the 830 is top and bottom feed, whereas the 810 is bottom feed only. Is having top and bottom feed worth the extra money , and will it make easier work for my unskilled hands?

IMO, you'd be better off looking for a Singer 31 class flatbed sewing machine (bottom feed). I've used one for near on to 50 years now. It has never let me down. And since they are all pretty much used, you could afford a Singer 136 class post machine (again bottom feed). and you might have money left over.

The only time you really need top and bottom feed is when you're sewing on to and off of multiple thicknesses of thick leather.

FWIW...

[das]

I agree completely with DW, but I'd suggest you also consider a used Singer 236-100 post bed. It's bottom (wheel) feed, but the presser roller also has a drive belt so it assists--steers like a sports car.

[banksy686]

Okay, thanks for the input guys. A bottom fed post bed would be fine for making other goods too, such as tote bags, purses, canvas bags etc?

[das]

I've sewn two layers of mellow 5 oz. veg-tan just fine with my 236 W-100, but of course you have to go up in needle/thread sizes and back off the spi.

[RodMomtazi]

I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a replacement head for a sewing machine that simply punches holes through something like thin veg tanned bellies? I've seen this done on youtube videos, especially special punches for 'pinking' leather. So does anyone know where I could get something that simply punches round holes, maybe 1-1.5mm wide?

[dw]

Not sure what you mean by "replacement head"...for all intents and purposes a "head" is the sewing machine. It sits atop the table. Any old 31 class Singer would do it. That's what I use for gimping (pinking) but I also still use that machine for sewing so a replacement head or a dedicated machine isn't necessary.

As far as punches is concerned, they are made. Where? I dunno. I suspect that short of a purpose made gimping and broguing machine, accuracy may be an issue.

[quaileggs]

Hi,
I noticed a couple of you talking about a straight needle stitcher, I had one of those for a bit and I liked it, it did what I needed but then I bought a Landis model 12 L. I am now looking to sell it. I am somewhat flexible on the price. If you are interested talk to me private. I live in Minneapolis MN, if you chose to ship it that would be your cost, but I would suggest coming and getting it.

Thanks Justin

[SharonKudrle]

I am still learning how to use some new-to-me shoe machines I have, and on a Comet-8 the horn now won’t lower when I press the “Rack Pawl”/Horn release lever. I just oiled the machine according to the manual I found on Shoe Systems Plus website, and the lever has worked before.
I was so looking forward to nailing the heck out of some heels, any advice please?
Thank you in advance,
Sharon

and how do I remove the double post please, admin? I can't find a delete option under edit

[das]

Never had a horn get stuck on one of those. Two bolts and the whole horn assembly should lift right out. Disassemble and give it a good cleaning, then a good coat of 30-weight non-detergent motor oil. Should glide down via gravity, almost as if on hydraulics.

[SharonKudrle]

Thank you Al!
It is truly stuck and the release lever isn't working. I will remove those two bolts, I was eyeing them yesterday but didn't know what was underneath and was worried it might be a spring assembly. I have been oiling with 30-weight, unfortunately detergent. It did work before as you said, almost as if on hydraulics. I'll go out and try it now, and take photos as I disassemble it so I can put it back together again.

[SharonKudrle]

Before I unbolt and lift out the whole horn assembly can I ask: a large screw/bolt is missing to the right of the release lever. In the parts manual it is listed as #2130 but it is un-named and clearly visible on figure 16 page 7. Can this be the problem? Photos of Comet-8 Model Auto-Soler Manual of Instructions courtesy of a free manual online on the Shoe Systems Plus website.

[img][

[das]

I think you might have found the problem. My Auto Soler "Nosecone" doesn't have that screw.

[SharonKudrle]

Okay, I just compared my nosecone to the comet, and the nosecone does have a hex head screw in the same place that the one in the comet should have one but doesn't.
If your nosecone works without it, then the comet doesn't need it I guess. I did find a 15mm wrench and have loosened the two bolts closest to the horn assembly.

[SharonKudrle]

I have unbolted and lifted the horn assembly out, and added three photos to the Flickr photostream. Two of the horn assembly and one of the interior where it is seated. What should I do now?

[das]

Try and see if you can tell what's gumming-up the works. No photos appeared here. Clean out well with brake cleaner or other solvent and toothbrush, re-lube and test functionality manually before reinstalling. If it still won't glide down, replace that screw I guess.

[SharonKudrle]

I can link to my Flickr account, but haven't been able to get photos to upload. I was able to view a photo once in preview, but it somehow added someone elses photos that were previously posted in "Sources" posts here. I will post a link to the Flickr stream again, in case it doesn't work, the link is:



I also don't have a delete option now at all in my editing view, although previously I have had that option.

[das]

Photo wasn't really that diagnostic, but there appears to be old, dry grease it'd be happier if it was cleaned off and refreshed with new lube. However, the horn stud that is supposed to glide down under its own weight (on the right) looks to be separate mechanism than the big, sprung, rotating bushing on the left. Start cleaning the moving horn shaft, latch, and see where that gets you.

[SharonKudrle]

Please let me know what I should photograph to help diagnose the problem and I'll do it!
I can clean the visible parts off with kerosene and re-lube with tri-flow or some other lithium grease if you recommend it instead of the unknown black grease that is on there now. I was wrong when I wrote that I was using 30 weight oil in the oil ports, it is 20weight-50.
As you can see from my video from when the horn assembly was attached, the release lever moves freely but nothing happens.