Al,
To reply to your post:
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"let's take "swing"--tracings, ink imprints,even plaster casts are usually made with the foot flat on the ground; however, as the heel height is raised the great toe moves laterally, incrementally "X" degrees for every "Y" (Korn ave 1/8" increments I recall) of heel height towards the 2nd toe, decreasing the "swing" becoming a more"neutral" shape. If I make or fit-up a last to agree with the customer's foot's "swing" when flat, then add a heel, there's now too much "swing". Thoughts?"
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1)casting truly is a matter of preferance. I belive and it was the way I was taught:Casting is only to capture the foot and it's archetecture and a shaping reference not the last. You carve a last from that point forward. If you have a real question as to how the foot will behave in a load and unload position, cast them both ways unloaded and fully loaded at a 90 degree angle to the tibia. However, As I said last time, I disagree with casting in the position of heel hieght with toe spring involved and I said why. To be allowed by your customer to cast in load and unload in one sitting, depends on how you explain it to your customer as to why you need this information. Make them feel special, like you are taking extra care to make sure their footwear fits, and they will be more than willing to be cast twice.
Think of it this way. Some of those on this forum take a foot impression and tracing in a load baring position and others with the foot hanging in the air. Casting is similar. There are casting techniques that an orthopedic, podiatrist, and ped orthist will tell you how to do,as to the proper casting techniques that have more to do with making orthotics than shoes. To long to explaiin here. However, unlike taking a foot impression, Many of these medical casting techniques require an understanding of the biomechanics of the lower extremeities and proper training. This can take about a year or two to fully understand the rippling effect that the mechanics of the feet do to the rest of the body. It is part of pediatry training. If you do not cast properly, you could hinder the person when forming an appliance or footwear from such a casting instead of help them. Once you understand these techniques, than one can learn casting for a last. It's basis is similar but it vears from such to understanding the shaping of a last instead of an orthotic, LLD or any other appliance. One could say it is specialized casting.
However, to try to explain to an ped orthic or pediatrist that you need them to cast for a last, and you do not want to cast ona board with a toe spring on it and they will look at you like HUH???? and they won't understand what you want and will do a slipper cast instead.
Second, to know how much the toe spreds is quite simple, Record by impression how much the foot flairs when placed in it's targeted positiion by making a foot impression in that posiiton fully loaded and simi-loaded. Use lastmakers ink which is a graphite ink. or utilize foot impression paper. The solutions for both are the same. It is just that the foot impression paper is less messy. However I do not like it's information as much as good ol fashioned ink up the foot. You can attain these items here:
http://lastmakingschool.com/lastmaking-supplies-for-sale-main-page.htm alternitivly, one can use childrens finger paint and roll it onto the bottom of the foot. The most important thing in taking a foot impression is to have a substance that will mark onto a paper the details down to the swirl pattern of the skin. That is what graphite ink does. This will give you the roll information you desire. these swirl pattern will give you information no other method will. You can see the roll of the toe and smuge mark how much it is rolling out and the like.
Third, the spread of the os backwards will encourage spread of the ball and elongate the arch. cup the os when making an impression unless you don't plan on not having a radiazed featherliine.
Fourth, Mathmatically speaking the great toe supposedly spreads 1 to 2 degrees for every half inch or 1/16th of an inch for every ½ inch of heel hight. However, it is better to get this information from the foot instead of mathmatically trying to attain it. If you forgot to get a foot impresion in it's desired position, than to cover your butt, you use mathmatics. Or that is the way I was taught. Be true to the foot!! was impressed upon me greatly, "after all it is that foot pair that is going to wear the footwear". I buy it.
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quote:
"In any mildly bunionized feet (so-called "neutral" or "outflare" shapes), IOW c.85+% of feet--if we agree that the 1st met group ought to be a straight line that continues straight through the great toe, with no deflection at the joint, like a baby's foot--the old school approach was to just build the last up/out at the swollen joint. To me this seemed bass-ackward, as by creating a bulging pocket in the vamp for the enlarged joint to settle into would allow the joint to move medially, clipping the great toe more with the upper, and exacerbating the problem. In all events I want to give the great toe room to move back to its natural position without further clipping it. If the great toe has any strength, and forces its own way, either the vamp deforms into a bulge made by the toe (spoiling design/shape), or the wearer's heel tries to walk-over the heel medially, deforming the stiffener/counter trying to escape the straightness of the last/footwear (again spoiling the design/shape).
Thanks for sharing your "secret" too, definitely food for thought."
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First of all What is IOW???
1) it is now known ( unlike a 100 years ago) that a bunion is not always caused by shoes. I think Fred can go into more detail about this. However, bunion can also be cased by pronation, pronation caused by a faling arch or flexible feet or many other ailments. THE OLD BOOKS WERE OLD SCIENCE. They honestly belived that crimping the big toe caused bunions. It is now known that although tight shoes can be a cause of this, there is other factors.
2) A bunion can not correct it's self on it's own! As a shoe maker one should not agitate the problem, but, if a toe is already almost crossing the second toe, making more room in the toe box near the toe isn't going to correct the toe or give it more power................
Major manipulation and elongation of the ligments or surgery is required.......................
So you shouldn't clip the joint but, if you follow the position of the toe, you arn't going to damage it or limit it's power. Trying to naturally correct a bunion by allowing the first toe extra room is old Meyer's thinking, old science................
When a major bunion has already occured,, the ligiments are actually not helping the bunion but causing further tightend bow string effect down the center of the area inbetween the first and second toe pulling the toe into that position. The joint if inflamed will be painful and the little pea size bones are moved over to the medial side will add extra width. Then you have a further problem if you have a hallux rigidus which is when the the large toe joint is stiff.
So my point is.....A shoe that follows the line of the bunionated large toe as it vears towards the second with normal sole shape clearance and not clipping it, will not hurt the foot any further nor will it render it powerless. It already is limited by it's position and the tightend ligiments.
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Quote:
"OK, now to"twist"--as the heel of the foot is raised (in gait or by an elevated heel), flexing across the angle (variable) of the met heads/joints, the medial side of the heel raises higher "faster" than the lateral side. Some really good lasts reflect this by mimicking
this "twist". But a tilted heel-seat plane is hell in machine lasting to build a shoe on, and even bespoke makers whine and moan because it
necessitates added care in making the heel-seat, and then the heel, to avoid the cosmetic "problem" of a finished heel that's higher medially than it is laterally. Factory lasts often have insufficient "twist", or none at all, so when the shoe is on it effectively thrusts upward under the lateral side of the heel, inducing the foot to pronate, dumping all its weight onto the medial side. Again, this bugs me because we know the lateral side is the "stronger" weight-bearing side
of the foot, and flat un-twisted lasts (and footwear made on them)shoves everything onto the weaker medial side, overloading the 1st met
head/joint and other evils. Again, it's a ontrol-factor that must be adjusted, and IMO no last's heel-seat transverse plane ought to be dead flat, in the same plane as the transverse plane in the forepart. (Ouuu, rough sentence, but I hope you get what I meant).
There are some splendid old lasts out there, designed by folks who knew their trade and who controlled all of these factors like we adjust the vol., bass, treble, on a hi-fi. I'm just afraid it's a matter of "lost" skills that we have to recreate, first by being able
to "read" the old lasts, then by systematic analysis of which "knob" affects what sound coloration, and then how to dial-in the knobs to
get the sound just right."
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1) This is a good time to refer to a post Bill Tippit did on the raidiazed ball.
http://www.thehcc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7338
He was discussing why the ball of a last is rounded a the bottom. I was taught that
1) it is because the relaxed foot is rounded too.
2) nature intended this for flexation but also for propultion and twist. The amount of roundness balanced with the heel creates the twist. this round ness is important to make sure is balanced with the arch of the metatarsals. So you don't encourage the failing of the met arch but encourage perpultion in gait.
If you cast a foot load baring, alot of this roundess disapears. and thus the information disapears unless it is a very young foot.
To really sight this, see three foot models all non load baring at different ages and you will note how this roundess goes away. many twist issues as i was taught is actually age related, or mechanics of the person relation or both. You can find a lot of your twist answers in what makes a forfoot varium or valguas. Additionally, I get your complaint and understand it. However, I think you might find further answers in biomechanics of the lower extemities. You have studied lasts already and obviosly know your stuff!!!!!

. Now if you balance the study of last with what biomechanics tells you, I am pretty sure you will find your answer there and then the mystery of the "old timer knows all" might be revieled to you. I guess my thought is, think of it this way, for the foot pair in question, how much forfoot varium or valgus do you need to create a balanced last?????? Do you need the twist????
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give me a hunk of wood, a sharp rasp, and sit
me in the corner......Maybe if I got into CAD
I'd be half-dangerous in the last world *Bwahahahaha* ?????
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me too....
Marlietta
Lastmakingschool.com