sewing machines

[artzend]

Courtney

Use 3 in 1 or Singer sewing machine oil, it comes in a small container with a thin spout top. You should be able to get it in a supermarket, at least you can here.

You can get a roller foot for it, I think there should be links here for where to get them. If it has a crank type feed you probably can't change that. You will have to set the presser foot shaft a bit higher probably.

Tim

[larrym]

Courtney,

I was in your shoes not long ago. I had never sewn a stitch in my life before I bought my 31-15. I cleaned it up and installed a roller presser foot on it. Pretty simple to do.

Along with the roller presser, you'll need to switch out the feed dog and throat plate. It should all come as a kit with everything you need.

I purchased mine off ebay. Any of the large industrial sewing suppliers on there should have it or even your local supplier.

As an example of what you'll receive in your kit, look at ebay item# 270361668271. This listing also has a youtube video on how to install the roller presser. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8fycCGB0fE

After you install your presser foot it is possible that you will have to reset the timing on your machine or tinker with it to get the feed dog properly set. Not difficult plus it's a nice learning experience.

Lots of free manuals for the 31 series are available online. Look at my post above from Sep 6th for a link to a manual which has great timing instructions.

Good luck,
Larry



(Message edited by LarryM on November 05, 2009)

[jon_g]

Courtney,

I just did this to a 31-15 that I set up as a gimping machine. What a great way to get to know your machine. It is not a very difficult process, although some of the set screws had not been worked for at least a couple of decades, probably many more. I did have to set the presser foot bar higher and this was also stiff to get moving. I got my kit off of ebay fairly inexpensively.

Good Luck,

Jon

[romango]

Courtney,

Several people here on the forum have added a roller foot to this model (including myself). It's not particularly easy to do but he machine is pretty simple overall. So, I didn't have too much trouble noodling through it.

That's the only modification I made to the machine... which I use exclusively for gimping.

[courtney]

Thanks,

Larry I could'nt get the link to work, but by deduction I think it was AtlasLevy? I watched a video on youtube and it looked pretty simple.

In the video the guy took out the teeth part for fabric and put a small piece over it.

Is that all you really have to do, or to really have it done right do you have to replace the large round contraption that holds the bobbin and everything?

Anybody else have an opinion on this? I called pilgrim this morning and talked to some one who told me the roller foot feed dog and needle plate would be about 10 times what that set up from Atlas was. I would guess that would be original Singer parts?

Is the feed dog just the teeth part or the whole round thing?

I could'nt be more unfamiliar with this stuff, but I got a couple saddlers awls coming from Hale & co. if it doesent work out.

Courtney

[tmattimore]

The whole round thing is your shuttle, race, hook and bobbin assembly. Monkey with this only as a last resort. The machine is simple but that makes it easy to get out of whack. I would only replace the feed dogs and plate if you need to. Get the roller foot and install it. You may need to adjust the presser foot bar up. I have always set the roller so that when it is down and you turn the fly wheel the feed dogs just turn the roller. (wind bobbins with the foot up) You may need a little more pressure for thin stuff. If the roller can not line up with the feed then you may have to change it and the plates.
Tom

[jon_g]

Courtney

I looked up my roller foot purchase, on ebay, from a company called amindustrialsupply. They don't have any conversion kits listed now but you might email them and ask about it, good price, free shipping.

[courtney]

Well guys, I am not so concerned about a roller anymore.

I bought the machine it sewed great, I broke a needle real bad that got wedged in there, the needle bar got stuck, the shuttle hook? and bobbin got stuck and kind of sideways, I took apart the shuttle race and messed with the position of the needle bar.

I put the shuttle race back together but the shuttle hook seems a little wobbly in there, I have no idea what I'm doing, but it seemes like theres only one way it fits back together.

It does'nt sew any more, anybody have a repair manual? I have the owners manual but I dont know if thats enough. It says to have needle 3/32 in the shuttle, I dont really know how to tell that.

If there is a repair manual for a 31-20 that would be cool, or should I quit monkeying with it and take it to someone who knows how to do it? or drop it off a cliff, and then light it on fire, then run over it in my truck?

Thanks,
Courtney

[dw]

I seriously doubt that you have damaged your machine beyond repair...I even doubt that it needs parts or attention by a professional. This is not a fragile machine. I have broken more needles than I care to think about in these machines.

But that said, I suspect that you simply don't have enough experience and understanding of the mechanics of the sewing machine to fix it yourself...and I don't think anyone can impart enough information over the internet to help you remedy the situation.

However...I suspect your big mistake was moving the needlebar. If you can think your way through the cycling of the machine, you can reset the needle bar. It needs to be at it's lowest point when the tip of the shuttle hook is just passing the needle a millimeter or so above the eye of the needle.

I don't know exactly how loose the shuttle is in the race but in general they do run a little loose in there. Make sure the race is firmly seated and the screws tightened down fully.

If you end up taking it to someone, when you get it back (hopefully sewing as well as before) take the time to study the mechanics of operation. Pull off the needle plate...both of them...and note where the shuttle point is when the needle is at its lowest point. Note where the feed dogs are at any given point in the cycle--needle fully up, fully down--and vice-versa...where the needle is when the feed dogs are fully up, when the feed dogs are just beginning to move backwards, when the feed dog is just beginning its drop, etc..

The only other thing I can tell you long distance is that behind the round plate at the back of the machine is screw that adjusts timing. Don't mess with it! at least until you understand a little better how sewing machines work and never if the machine is running and sewing good. I only tell you this because ultimately the timing of the shuttle and the height of the needle bar must be in sync for any particular needle system. It is not ordinarily something that the average user ever needs to concern themselves with...and I don't think your wreck will have thrown the timing off...but if all else fails when you take it to a service outlet make sure they know where and how to time the shuttle. Don't tell them...ask. If they don't know, take it somewhere else. DAMHIKT.

I am sorry I don't have better news or more helpful advice... but I do have one piece of universal wisdom that may afford some comfort--experience teaches. This too will pass.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[courtney]

Thanks D.W., that gave me a little hope.

I did monkey with it some more but did'nt touch the timing, thanks for the warning, I probably would have!

I found a diagram showing the needles position in relation to the shuttle hook that was helpfull.

I got it so it seems like it might work but the needle doesnt catch the bobbin thread. it also starts tangaling up the needle thread down in the shuttle around the bobbin.

Any Ideas?

Thanks again,
Courtney

[dw]

Well, I remembered this but a) I don't know how useful it might be; b) it is a catch-22 for a beginner; and c) as I mentioned before I, a non-professional, could probably get it running in short order but you may be well advised to take it in for service...at least this one time...and get it running correctly first and then make a conscientious effort to understand the mechanics of this machine.

Beyond that, maybe someone else will have some further, better advice.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[tmattimore]

Just a word to add to DW when you take your first stitch always hold the top thread or place it under the foot and hold it, not with a tight grip but enough so that it will not pull too much thread on the first stitch. after it forms the first lock let go of it.
Tom

[jask]

Lots of good advice! Courtney are you doing these adjustments with the foot down? with the foot up top tension is released...(feel free to throw something at me if I am pointing out the obvious.)it is always a good idea to do adjustments with a scrap piece of the material you plan to be sewing under the foot. I am not understanding how the thread is becoming tangled if the bobbin hook is not picking it up? is it your top thread or bobbin thread that is getting snarled up?
Try doing a threadless few stitches and check the relationship of the bobbin hook and needle. Then load top thread and see if it will pick up at the right point and carry the thread around the bobbin carrier,you will need to keep some tension on the thread tail to make sure the top tension recovers properly.
there are a couple free (basic) manuals online:
http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/31-20.pdf
with more timing information.
I would suggest you try to sort this out yourself if you have the willingness, this is a tool you need to rely on and if you are able to service and troubleshoot it you will be further ahead. Be patient, step back if you are frustrated, and do not force when you feel mechanical resistance...unless you have a parts machine handy.

[jnewburry]

Well just wanted to say hello, and I just brought home a 31-15 from Chicago yesterday. I have been watching this site for quite awhile just figured I would finally jump in and say hi.

[admin]

Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy, Jimmie. The 31-15 is a good machine and the one many of us start with.

Emmett

[courtney]

I think I am going to probably take it to someone to fix it, although I would rather not cuz I'm broke!

I have already learned alot though.

In the back of the shuttle there is a horse shoe shaped piece that holds it all together, is this supposed to flex in time with the rotation?
Because thats what its doing.

When the hook is on top towards the back the plate opens a little and the closes when it comes down in front.

Thanks,
Courtney

[courtney]

Also the needle that broke may have been the right one for the machine, The other needles I dont know what they are, but they came with the machine.

Would the wrong needles definatley cause a problem?

Courtney

[artzend]

Courtney

Very likely yes.

Tim

[courtney]

Thanks Tim,

I will try and get the right needles and see if that helps.

What about the horse shoe plate at the back of the shuttle? Is it supposed to spread?

Thanks,
Courtney

[artzend]

Courtney

The wrong needle can affect the action in a number of ways. The length of the shaft and the position of the hole for a start will affect where the thread is when the bobbin hook comes around. The needle should have reached the bottom of it's stroke and JUST started to pull back up so that the hook can pick up the loop formed when the thread binds as it goes back up through the material.

Put it in the wrong way, ie, short groove away from the shuttle instead of towards it will cause knotting and breakages.

The thickness of the shaft where it goes into the holder can sometimes be a problem, it moves the edge of the needle a bit if it's thin, causing it to cut threads on the wheel if you have it set close.

I'll get back to you when I have a look at the head I have here. I haven't played with one for a while. I seem to remember that the horseshoe thing is a spring, in which case, it would.

Good luck, I'll be back in a while if someone hasen't sorted it for you. I'm off to feed the kangaroo.

Tim

[artzend]

Courtney

I have just looked at the head I have here, a 31K18 and the only thing that looks like a horseshoe on this one is the feed mechanism, the thing I was thinking of is more a wishbone shape.

Take a photo is best.

Tim
www.shoemakingbook.com

[jnewburry]

Well it seems as though my new 31-15 has a timing issue as well (won't pick up bottom thread). I am having trouble following those instructions on timing. Are they talking about the forked part to the left? It also seems that if this has to be above the eye as needle goes up then the needle must go pretty deep in the hole, and my needle clamp is almost hitting foot? The needles I bought to try are singer style 2032 100/16 an schmetz 130/705H LL 15x2NTW 110/18 both packages are labeled for leather use, are these even close? My only source in the area I have found was joann fabrics.
Thanks,
jim

[dw]

Jim,

I got even money your machine is skipping because you have an incompatible needle in there. You need a 135 system needle...I know from long experience that they will work.

I also know that several other systems will work as well but no matter which one you go with you may need to adjust the needle bar.

Take my word for it you'd be better off looking for needles at a company that deals with industrial machines and parts. In my post above, dated 3 Nov. 2009, there are several companies that can supply needles...and advice about needles.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[courtney]

Well, I took my my 31-20 to the local repair shop, it was a funky mom and pop sewing machine repair place.

The guy says "I dont try to tell whats wrong, I take it apart and fix it".

It now sews but the guy did'nt want to tell me really what he did, he sold me some needles that are Schmetz 134[R] size 20, it also says they can be used for 135x5. I said its supposed to take singer 16x87 so how do you know these are right?
He said "if they work its right, if they dont work its wrong needle."

So, I dont think these are even leather needles?
they sew leather but maybe not as thick as I was hoping.

D.W., are these the right needles since they say 135x5? is that Schmetz 135 system?

How thick can you sew on a 31 class machine?

I'm kind of scared now of changing to a roller foot and single feed dog cuz he said some of the threads were worn away were the screws go.

Anyway, as of now it sews,

[artzend]

Courtney

Are the needles round point or are they sort of chisel shaped on the end? Most leather needles are chisel shaped to slice through the material. A round point will sew leather a bit but is designed to push through fabric without cutting it.

You can sew quite thick leather on a 31k, it depends a bit on the type of leather but I used to sew through 4mm with a size 20 needle regularly, and that is a very thick needle. I am sorry I can't remember the needle numbers for you. DW or someone else will have that info.

It definitely sounds as though you need an industrial sewing machine mechanic. Ask your local repairer who does their work, there could be someone near you.

Tim