sewing machines

[dw]

Dick's gimping tool will fit any machine that does not have a bored needle bar.

The real problem is feed...is it adjustable to stitch lengths that will be long enough (or short enough) to make a good gimped edge; and is the machine bottom fed?

Beyond that, I would think it would be both hard to see, and control, if the presser foot was a "double," such as is commonly used for fabric. For that matter, it might be almost impossible to fit the tool through the needle hole in that kind of presserfoot.

Given all that, one might find literally dozens of machines that could work with the gimping tool...the 31 class machine is simply the one most likely to turn up in a shoe/boot shop and the simplest mechanically and probably the cheapest given it's antiquity.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[athan_chilton]

Thanks, DW, for sound advice.

Well, I'm getting a new, much slower, motor for the Adler from Melanie Machine, and once that behemoth is a little more controllable, I'll probably get the attachment made for it.

[jkrichard]

I brought home a 31-15 this evening. It is set up in my living room (my studio (spare room) is out of space).

Let mayhem ensue (ensew!)!

That is all, carry on.

-Jeff

[dw]

Jeff,

I guess you will use it for sewing and not so much for gimping. Well, good luck...it is a fine machine easy to adjust and keep running.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[jkrichard]

Actually... I intend to get a gimping tool asap. I'm one of maybe two at Green Country that has an interest in making men's and women's shoes as well as boots---and I see no fun in hand cutting/punching little triangles out of my patterns.

I spent the weekend cleaning, oiling, and rebuilding the vibration mount on the motor--- we went from bucking bronco to purring kitten by late Sunday evening.

-Jeff

[larrym]

Singer 31-15 issue...

Needle thread getting stuck/pinched in shuttle race area.

I purchased this machine many months ago and had it serviced at that time. It worked fine then with a presser foot, lighter thread, and sewing lighter cloth material.

I've switched it over to a roller foot and single dog setup. I have not been able to get it to stitch properly since. Currently I have #69 thread top & #46 bottom and tried a variety of needle sizes 16-19.

It will pick up the bobbin thread properly and then on the first stitch or two, it will seize. Upon inspection, the thread is getting pinched between the shuttle race and the shuttle race cap. Hopefully the pic below can better illustrate this.

Any thoughts?

9959.jpg

[dw]

Larry,

First thing I'd do is take that shuttle and the shuttle race out of the machine and inspect it for burrs and rough spots.

The other thing is that this machine has a very limited timing mechanism but it does have one. If the thread take up lever is out of synch with the shuttle, or the needle bar...or you might even be using the wrong needle system...then there will be thread still circulating around the bobbin when the thread take-up lever reaches its full height. If that's the case then the take up lever will not be able to pull that thread free of the shuttle.

Just some thoughts...

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[larrym]

DW,

Thanks for the ideas. I'll give it another round on the work bench and report back if I manage some positive results... else it's off to a professional [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/sad.gif"%20ALT="sad[/img]

[dw]

Larry,

Don't be discouraged. This is a relatively simple machine, especially as compared to newer models. The very best thing you can do for yourself, your business and your machine is to learn to fix it yourself. That means endless hours of cycling the machine and watching the various parts to see what pulls what, and when something happens compared to something else.

My first inclination is to believe that you mechanic didn't tighten the timing screw tight enough...you might not want to take the machine back there. But if the machine was sewing correctly to begin with, it can be retimed pretty easily--there's only one screw...unlike many other machines. Although if your mechanic is inclined to not tightening screws securely, the needlebar screw could be just the slightest bit loose and the needle bar would get out of adjustment especially if you gimp with this machine or are sewing into dense leather.

The second guess is that you broke a needle and replaced it with a needle system that is wrong for the machine.

And of course if you broke a needle it could have dinged the shuttle. But while that's the easiest answer (and maybe the easiest to fix) it is also the least likely in my opinion.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[jask]

I would make sure that the thread is feeding out under the bobbin case tension spring properly- I have had bits of thread and lint stick under there and cause the lower tension to slack off.If the current thread is lighter than the previous you may need to tighten the tension screw on the bobbin case (gently!!).I also like to run some test strips any time I change thread/needles/materials... I usually will start by cranking up the top tension until it pulls up the lower thread so I can just see loops peeking on the surface-then decrease tension to "sink" the lower thread back into the material.
I found this manual online:
http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/NMAHTE X/0202/

[dw]

Sorry...I found that link slow loading and I'm not sure that there's any provision to do anything but view the material. No way to download, print and have on hand when you need it.

As an alternative there is also a pdf version of the Singer 31 class machine here

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[ch_rasmussen]

I picked up a Singer 132k6 as partial payment for a wedding ring job that we did recently. It's on a treadle and seems to be in very good condition. Rock solid, really. It's quite a heavy duty machine and I understand that these were used by saddle and harness makers, sail makers, etc. I'm looking for an operating manual and if anyone has any leads I would appreciate a holler. I did find a parts book on-line and downloaded that. It is strange that I have not even seen a reference to an original operating manual in my admittedly limited internet searching skills. I did find a "manual" of sorts - a generic cut and paste PDF version with completely useless computer generated graphics from a firm in the UK. The text has, however, allowed me to get the thing at least set up in a basic sense.
I realize that this type of machine (walking foot) may be of limited use in bespoke shoemaking due to presser feet blocking full vision (am I correct on this point?) but I'm glad to have it anyway for other uses.
As time permits I'll relocate the dust bunnies that came with it and try to figure out how to start a stitch while holding the leather, holding the thread ends, turning the balance wheel, and operating the treadle without causing everything to go super-critical.
I would appreciate any words from folks who have used this model of machine or just might know of a manual.
Thanks, Craig

[larrym]

DW,

Thanks for the words of encouragement and solid advice. I have fixed the issue with my 31-15. We'll see how it holds up.

Not sure if it was the needle or the timing or a combination of things.

I adjusted the timing, following the info found at the link below.
http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14218/css/14218_184.htm
While it's not the best formatted site, it does have more 'service' specific info than I have seen in any of the other 31 series manuals floating around the web.

Also, I know the needles I currently have for this machine are incorrect. Can anyone shed light on what the proper system is for the 31-15? Or better yet, provide some Schemtz specific #'s?

Thanks,
Larry

[dw]

Larry,

That's a great website if only for that bit of info about the 31-15.

Needle systems...hoo boy! Well, seems like every needle manufacturer has a different number for what is apparently the same needle. The critical issues are length of needle; diameter of the shank; and perhaps the location of the thread hole within the length of the needle. Some of this, such as the length, may be subject to compensation by adjustment of the needle bar...up or down. This is especially true of the 31 class machine simply because it can accept needles with different shank diameters because if it is set up with the original needle bar the needle fits into a grooved chamfer and a clamp holds the needle in place.

To top all that off, sometimes sewing machine mechanics will replace the needle bar with one not originally intended for that machine. I've seen at least one 31 class machine (if memory serves) that had a bored needle bar which would accept one size shank and one size only.

The point is that sometimes you got to go with the needle system that the mechanic provides.

All that said, I believe my 31 class machine has the original needle bar in it. And the needle systems that I use (and have used for four different 31 class machines over the years..only have two now) are:

Schmetz...134, 135x5, 135x7, 135x8, 797 and DPx5
Other systems...SY1981, SY6807.

While all the above probably meet the criteria I set out initially, not all will have the point that you want to use. Ie. round point, tri-point, narrow reverse twist, etc.. You need to contact an outfit like Universal Sewing Machine in St. Louis, 1.800.325.3390 and request a catalog. they have pages and pages of needles--different alloys, different points, etc.. And as a bonus, you can stick the catalog under your foot to raise your knee when your want to round close.

As I say I have used a 16x2 needle in a pinch but it takes some adjustment and I'm not happy making those adjustments if only because I have to re-adjust when I go back to the system 134 needles. I only mention that because the link you referred to above gives instructions (I only skimmed it) on how to adjust the needlebar/ shuttle timing. Which is what you need to know to use other needle systems than are recommended for the 31 class machine. And don't expect it to work all the time!

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[holly]

I was really excited about getting this old Singer 51 post machine. Then, I tried to actually use it and excitement quickly became frustration...It doesn't seem to have a stitch length adjustment. According to the manual I found online, the adjustment is "a thumbscrew on the balance wheel." But there isn't one, nor is there a place where one could be, so I'm guessing that this model predates the available manual.

It makes only six stitches per inch as is, which seems pretty useless to me. I am hoping that I'm missing something. Any theories?

Thanks,
Holly

10355.jpg

10356.jpg

[dw]

I'd need to have a better look but isn't that round knob on the end of the shaft and to the extreme right of the flywheel, adjustable or "turnable"?

If it is, you'll have to hold the fly wheel steady and turn the knob...it may be frozen...

But a quick, long distance, examination suggests that that knob is "different" than I've seen on this class of machine before...and there doesn't seem to be any missing bits on the head--which is where they usually mount the stitch adjusting lever.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[homeboy]

Dee-dubb,

There may be a button you push down while turning the flywheel to adjust stitch length. But......I sure don't see one!

Jake

[johnl]

DW
I took a quick look at the online manual, and you are right. The round knob in the center and right of the flywheel is the stitch adjuster.
The following is copied from the manual. Like you said, TLC and a breakfree type lube might be required.
John Lewis

'To Regulate the Length of Stitch
The length of stitch Is regulated by the thumb screw (A,Fig.18) at the right of the balance wheel.

Fig. 16. Stitch Regulator
The feed regulating spindle head is marked with figures corre¬sponding with the range of the number of stitches to the inch that the machine will make.
There 1:; a notch In the hub of the balance wheel as shown in Fig. 16; and the number appearing In the notch shows the number of stitches to the Inch that the machine Is ready to make.
To lengthen the stitch, turn the thumb screw over toward you. To shorten the stitch, turn the thumb screw over from you.'

[lancepryor]

Holly:

You might try this, instead of trying to free up the thumbscrew. I have an old 51, and the instructions I received told me to do the following:

Look under the cover plate to the left of the hand wheel (i.e. the cover plate is the thing with the yellow number 92 on it) -- at the right of this opening there should be what looks almost like a flywheel. Turn the hand wheel until you find a set screw next to the 'flywheel.' Make sure you find the set screw, which is inset into the female slot -- on more or less the opposite side there is a standard screw, which you don't want to touch. Remove the set screw. Under the set screw should be a second screw. Turning this screw will change the stitch length -- loosening the screw should shorten the stitch (I think). Once you have the length where you want it, reinsert and tighten the set screw. Voila.

(Hope this works.)

Lance

[marcell]

I have an olf Pfaff and it seems to be quite similar... so: adjust it once, and forget it. Maybe you are lucky and it sews with the right stitch lenght, hmm?

[minicurios]

I am new here and just love this forum!

I am needing a recommendation for sewing machine suitable for sewing thin leather - garment leather would be the max thickness I use. I make purses and wallets and soft leather slipper type shoes.I would love to try out fancy stitching soon.

I also think I need a roller wheel presser foot as I sew close to the edge with fine thread and need maximum visibility.Currently I use an old domestic Husqvarna Viking machine.

It seems that a lot of members use a 31-15 which I would love to purchase however I am in Australia and have yet to find one. They don't seem to be available here. With that in mind, what similar old singers would be suitable?

I also know some leather sewers use a domestic 15-30 which again I have yet to find. A smaller size machine and slow speed would be preferable!

Maybe there are some fellow Aussie's on the board that may be able to help? I also wonder if anyone knows what the old glove factories used as a machine? They appeared to use many flatbed machines in the old pics of the factory workers one can find.

Thanks
Andrea

[holly]

Thanks all for being so helpful. I didn't expect this volume and quality of responses. WD-40 and brute force to the rescue! The central knob does in fact turn, and beneath the dirt and grease, sure enough, a 6-24 range of stitch lengths. Hooray!

I have a couple more questions. First, the manual calls for a 128 needle, which are hard to come by. It has a 110 in it now, and it seems to work fine, but I am wondering if this presents any potential problems that I should be aware of.

Next, the top thread tension is very finicky, possibly related to the just-replaced spring. The bobbin thread also does not pull as smoothly or consistently as I would like. Probably both need oiled, but I've never oiled a machine before and am wondering if there's anything I should know first? (I'm a bit of a worrier.) Can I use my new best friend WD-40, or is it important to use official sewing machine oil?

Lance, if you get the chance, could you see if there is a part number on the slide plate covering the bobbin case? Mine is missing. It's probably a long shot to find replacement, but I'd like to try.

Thanks again,
Holly

[marcell]

Don't use WD40. Use special oil made for sewing machines.

On the other hand: clean that machine! (not WD40 - that will come off from the machine just when you finished working with the most beautiful and expensive leather, leaving a big spot at the medium). Use pertol maybe.

Who knows maybe you will find some exra funtion..

[dw]

Holly,

I could be wrong, but I suspect the 110 is a number you see on the shaft of the needle. If so, that's the size and not the needle system. I don't know of any needle system designated 110.

I think you need to use the 128 system as recommended in your manual.

You can call either of these places and inquire about needles:


Dunlop Sales
P.O. Box 751
Hopkinsville, KY 42241-0751
voice (800) 626-9200
Needles, misc. sewing machine parts, etc.


Universal Sewing Supply
1011 East Park Industrial
St. Louis, MO 63130
main voice (800) 325.3390

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[courtney]

I just bought my first sewing machine! It is a 31-20 and it works and was cheap.

If I want to put a roller foot on it, do I have to change the feed dog or anything else?

I'm not sure I even know exactly what the feed dog or anything else is on the machine.

Also, what kind of oil do you use?

Thanks,
Courtney