miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

[artzend]

DW

If the glue is dry I don't think there is any reason why the paste wouldn't adhere to it. Maybe you could try it for me as I don't have any of the ingredients here.

As to the wrinkling that Nasser was talking about, if you keep pressure on the bond, it doesn't happen. I used paste on legs and leg linings of zip and pull on boots and if I kept pressure on, by using a wheelbarrow tube and pumping it up to make everything firm, I got no wrinkles. I even just used paste to make a bond where the toe puff goes, leaving out the toe puff for a soft toed pair of shoes and it worked well for years.

Tim

[big_larry]

Tim,

I have a picture (in my mind) of a wheelbarrow rubber innertube stuffed onto the boot upper and then inflated to tighten up the contact between the liner and the outer leather. If this is not what you are talking about, would you mind posting a picture?

I did attempt to use a rubber inflatable plug like plumbers use to block 4 inch plastic sewer pipe to get the 10 minute "no air loss" inspection from the building inspector. The plug is too short for boot tops!

Thank you for sharing and contributing.

Larry Peterson

[artzend]

Larry

Yes that is what I did. You have to make sure that the valve points to the top so you can deflate it later. I used a foot pump to inflate it without getting excessive pressure. It worked ok.

Tim

[dw]

Tim,

I thought I would update you on this business of paste and contact cement...

Today I put two fairly heavy coats of contact cement on the flesh side of a piece of leather. when the CC was thoroughly dry I glued a piece of the same leather to it with straight PVA and another piece with HirschKleber.

Both seem to hold fine up against the contact cement...I was surprised. It may not hold quite as strongly as it would if the CC weren't there at all but certainly well enough to inspire confidence and the expectation that it would hold for a considerable time.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[artzend]

DW

I don't think there would be any problem with the paste or pva adhering to the dried glue and if it stops the transference of moisture, you are on a winner.

I have a feeling someone told me that you can do that with fabric too but I haven't tried it.

I wouldn't think the coats of contact need to be too thick, but you can experiment with that.

Tim

[romango]

Kind Admin,

It would be nice to have a whole section on adhesives.

[admin]

Rick,

I'm doubtful...but we'll give it a shot. {let there be subtopics...snap!...it's done}

Now for all who are fairly new and who wonder ...a short message/explanation...

Because the Crispin Colloquy was designed, and is meant, as a record for posterity, it does not function the way other forums function. Threads (topics) do not get old and pass into obscurity, they are always there waiting for new contributions to the record. That's why there are very few sub-topics where a member can start a new thread. Other forums offer that option but if we did that we'd soon have more threads than we could handle or see in a single screen or scroll.

I am satisfied that there is a thread for every question that a member, whether new or long time, can come up with...especially since there are several "catch-all" threads...such as this one.

I am not in any hurry to add more but occasionally someone comes up with a title that might have possibilities. Rick's idea is a good one...provided there is enough interest and enough questions about "Glues and Cements" to keep it going. Otherwise it's just deadwood.

Admin will always entertain suggestions but Admin is fundamentally lazy..and deeply conservative to boot. Don't take it personally if suggestions aren't acted upon..no matter how entertaining they are.

Yr. Hmb. Svt.

[romango]

I recently got this tabletop photo studio from Hammacher Schlemmer for $99. Comes with two lights and fold up for easy storage.

Works pretty well for shoe photos.

http://www.hammacher.com/Product/75335?promo=upsells

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[paul]

Thank you for showing this Rick.

I've been wanting one of these, but I'm not sure it will be big enough for, say 14" boots. And the alternative 40" seems huge.

Do you think you'll be shooting your zipper boots in this box?

Paul

[dw]

I hung around on a photographic forum/website for quite a while when I was contemplating the purchase of my current camera and in the hopes of learning some things about photography.

There was a thread that suggested that a large and...from my point of view useful...shoot box could easily be made from an old sheet and some PVC tubing. The result was intended to be broken down and stored.

A special photographically neutral grey background paper was used in the interior of the box. This appears to be what Rick has in his, as well.

The really bulky and inconvenient bit was the halogen lights that were recommended. I don't remember what they call them but you can see them in various configurations at Home Depot or Lowes--they are yellow with a rectangular, wire screened face. I am sure nearly anything will work adequately, however.

The object was to shine the light on three sides(?) of the box so that it was diffused through the cloth. This means that the lights have to be powerful enough to penetrate the cloth...which is why halogen was recommended. I think Rick's set up is using halogen at the sides as well.

I have been threatening to make one of these myself but sourcing out the background paper, lights and the the odd bits convinces me that, even making it yourself, you will have well over $50.00 into it. Of course, it can be made any size...even big enough for pair of 18" boots.

Shoot boxes are very useful if only because they mitigate glare...something that drives me crazy...and shadows, and put the boot against a neutral background that is easily cropped out if required.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

(Message edited by admin on October 17, 2009)

[romango]

Well, it is 20 inches tall but you still have to mess with the lights quite a bit to get them positioned for just shoes.

I think you could do boots but you may need more lights. Actually, I need more lights too but it's close.

BTW, it comes with a gray background that is reversible to blue.

[johnl]

I guess that it is time for me to butt in. I have been a lurker for several years, reading and trying to soak up some knowledge. I have had an interest in shoe making for sometime. Made a couple of pair of out turned shoes with Glen Leasure a couple of years back, but otherwise no experience. i have Tims book on order now.
I used to mess with photography a few years ago, and can offer a little knowledge here. If you want a light box cheap, use pvc pipe. 3/4" and fittings. Do not glue anything together. Slip fits work fine. You can use an old sheet, a plastic shower curtain, The thin transparent drafting paper that comes in rolls, that transparent plastic tracing paper used to transfer patterns onto leather for carving, or even unprinted news print. (Go down to the local paper, they will probably give you the ends of rolls for free)
For clips to hold it onto the pvc, take a piece of 1" pvc pipe and cut into lengths 1 or 2" long etc. Now split the short pieces length wise. These will make clips that will go over the 3/4" and hold tight.
Lights. For real cheap, shoot outside in daylight. Otherwise, a trip to the local hardward store will get $5.00 or so lights with an 8 to 10" metal reflector and an alligator type clip on the back. Clip them to a 2X4, chair back or what ever, adjust as necessary, and shoot away. Most digital camers now will adjust the light color (light temp), but if you want to be sure, a trip to the photo shop, or net can yield some 4800 K bulbs which are close to daylight.
John Lewis

[johnl]

Oh and i forgot, for the gray inside, photo shops sell small grey cards for a couple of dollars. The color is the standard that light meters are calibrated to 18% light reflectance. They are also use to adjust color balance. Anyway, one of these and a trip to the paint store will get you a quart of paint that can coat an old sheet, plywood, cardboard etc. for your interior
John Lewis

[large_shoemaker_at_large]

Been on a couple wood working sites and one fellow uses compact florecents he said the have some that are 5500K. He does pro photography and wood working.
www.canadianwoodshopnewsandreview.com

Seems you agree on most things.

Dropping christmas hints for a new digital camera
Regards
Brendan

[dw]

John,

Welcome...sit yourself down and have a wee dram with the rest!

Great instructions. I particularly like the bit about making the clips. I've already got the sheet, just need the PVC pipe...well, and the lights and background, too. But I'm closer!

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[amuckart]

I threw something like this together for taking small photos of things for my blog. I used a 60 litre (16 gallon) frosted white plastic storage box on its side.

For lights I use three clip on bendy-neck desk lamps fitted with regular 'daylight' compact fluorescent bulbs and for a background I use sheets of matte card from the stationery store. The top edge of the card gets pushed into the top rear corner of the box and the bottom edge is clipped to the bottom with little spring clips from the dollar store. That gives a smoothly curved surface with no corners to create shadows.

The whole lot is a little bulky because of the box, but all the lights and sheets of card etc. live in the box when I'm not using it

For post-processing and correcting the color balance I use google's free picasa program.

It works pretty well for small objects. I haven't tried fitting a shoe in there yet but that's just a matter of scale.

I can't find any pictures of the box set up, but some pictures taken using it can be seen on my blog: http://wherearetheelves.blogspot.com/2009/04/scissors-case.html

Obviously you need to turn the flash on the camera off. A good tripod or other really solid stand for your camera is essential. My tripod is cheap and wobbly and it really shows on some of the long-exposure shots I've taken. To avoid finger induced wobble, use a remote or use the self-timer in the camera.

[johnl]

Thanks for the welcome DW. The daylight fluorescents mentioned by Alasdair and others would work as well. I frequently take pictures of paintings that an artist friend does. I just take them out on her porch on an overcast day when shadows are very soft or not at all. I take a hard look at the art looking for bright spots or glare and adjust the position and location if I see any until there is none. Then shoot with no flash. Works all the time.
John Lewis

[amuckart]

I just dug out my light box to take some pictures of a couple of tools I finished making, so here's a picture of the setup in its usual spot on my kitchen bench. Our house isn't very big so when this isn't in use the box lives in the garage.

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10246.jpg

Some better diffusion of the incoming light would be good, but it works pretty well. The major change I want to make to the setup is to cut a hole in the top so I can take shots looking straight down into the box.

[paul]

Thanks alot guys.

John, a welcome and a special thanks to you for your detailed instructions.

Alasdair, the bucket is a great idea, even if a little small for boot shootin'.

Now if I could just find one of them round tuit's.

Paul

[jesselee]

All,
Not sure if this is the right place to post. But still blind as a bat and its hard to check.. Anyways, I am in need of the 1/2 inch foam soling such as is used for theatrical stage footwear. Anyone know a good source?

Cheers,

JesseLee

[paul]

Jesse,

Surely you've tried the shoe finders in your area.

Do you need other leads?

Paul

[carole]

Hi
I am hoping I have put this question in the right category! I was wanting some advice about buttonholes. I recently made a pair of mens ankle boots with 6 side buttons and am fairly unhappy with the buttonholes. I tried quite a few ways of doing them based on my own ideas and looking at reference photos. The upper is calf and I ended up doing a kind of teardrop shape cut by hand with a single row of stitching around them but they leave a lot to be desired! So, I would like to know

- is there any method of doing lots of functioning buttonholes with leather, or should I just stick to using fabric for this type of boot and try to use the buttonholing function on a domestic sewing machine?

- how do you work out the length of the hole, so it is not too loose or too tight?

- should I have put a reinforcement strip of leather around the holes between lining and upper, as you can do with eyelets. I neglected to do this and am worried the holes are going to stretch way out of shape!

- i practised with methods such as a single slit with stitching around (couldn't get the button through), a hole at either end with a single slit (looked horrible and couldn't get button through) but recently saw a single slit with a hole in the middle of it- am wondering if this is the way to go?
- what happens with the lining? I ended up grading it slightly larger around the actual hole as the double thickness of lining and upper was making it difficult to get the button through.

Hope the above makes sense and any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

[frank_jones]

Carole Atkinson

First I would like to add my welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. I am really pleased you are asking questions. They always make people think and try to find a way to help. On the Colloquy, questions are a crucial part of “making it work”.

Having said that your question is difficult for most boot/shoemakers. Even the ones with really grey hair like me, cannot remember the hey-day of button boots. The historians will probably correct me but they certainly had disappeared before Second World War. This means that we do not have any experience to fall back on regarding making functioning buttonholes in leather.

It was certainly common in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s here in Britain. My suggestions are :-

1. Experiment with the slit. Perhaps the slit needs to be a very narrow slot. My thinking is that leather is stiffer than fabric and this will make it easier to push the button through.

2. As you suggest, I would certainly add reinforcement between the lining and the outside upper. Ideally this should be the thin nylon sheet material, commonly used to reinforce light weight leathers in factory made women’s fashion shoes. It usually comes with a sticky coating on the back ready to put in place.

3. Working out the length of the hole is a matter of trial and error. Make some buttonholes in pieces of scrap leather and see what works. If you do this with scrap lining attached as well, it should also answer your last point. There are no right answers in shoemaking, just ones that work and many more than do not.

I will do some digging in the old shoemaking books on my shelf. Sometime they are the only source for techniques that went out of fashion about a hundred years ago.

Do keep asking questions.

Frank Jones - HCC Member
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com

[dearbone]

Carole,

Welcome to the Colloquy,A very timely question,I am making a six hole button boots and i can assure you,i made dozens for period plays and also some for modern day wear,but here is how i make the holes for the buttons,first no tear-shape cuts,never seen or heard of it,the buttons are traditionally dome-shape and in different sizes,hence the length of the cut depends on the size of the buttons,I start by putting a small hole,where the button enters and than sew a row around from one side of the hole to the other(3mm wide),but not around the hole itself,or you can use the button holes machine,if you can find one nearby,if you are using calf and also lined,no need to back the holes flap,a hook is used to put the buttons through the holes,the sad thing is that i have to supply the hook whenever i make one of these shoes to bespoke customers,BTW for big buttons i sew 20 mm row,15 mm for smaller buttons and i make the cut after the sewing around,the cut is made between the sewing row and therefor a little smaller.
I hope that was helpful.

Nasser

[dearbone]

Here is a sample,the cut/holes are made generously for an elderly man for easy undoing.

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Nasser