Bottoming techniques

[marcell]

8788.jpg

[marcell]

The some wax applied on the sole.

8790.jpg

8791.jpg

Then you are ready. You can use your own techniques to make your shoes special identity.

8792.jpg

The End.

ps. I would have write maybe about the finishing, but that would have been too much. Maybe next time.

[marcell]

Before - after. (and no more pictures for a while)

8794.jpg

8795.jpg

[admin]

Marcel,

Thank you for taking the time. This is precious and valuable.

Yr. Hmb. Svt.

[tmattimore]

Marcell
Thanks for the tutorial I learned a lot.
Tom

[chuck_deats]

Marcell, (spelled it right this time) Thank you. A bunch of good and useful information in the tutorial and, of course, we always ask for more. Did you ever show a picture of the channel scraping tool? Have an idea but yours would be interesting.

[chuck_deats]

Looking in the wrong place. Found it. Thanks again.

[marcell]

Yes, I just posted a picture, here:

http://www.thehcc.org/forum/download/file.php?id=5129

This one on the picture is a sophisticated one, but you can easily make it from a piece of thin srewdriver. Take care not to make that stitching channel too deep! 5-6 pull is enough - just make space for a thin thread.

Feel free to ask! I am glad if I can help.

[dw]

I have another quick question for all my shoemaking friends...

When you're cutting the feather and channel, preparing to inseam, what proportion of the insole length is channeled and what proportion is heelseat and hence unchanneled?

In other words, let's say the insole is 12" long...I have seen it suggested that the heelseat area would be three inches or 1/4 of the overall length. Is that about right?

Presumably this would affect the length of the heel itself as the first lift wouldn't come much further forward (if at all) than the end of the welt.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[shoestring]

Channel scraper,

I made a channel scraper using a small hex wrench sharpened the short ends placed it in an awl haft and it works like a charm.Of course I got the idea from Igor while he was visiting me.

Ed

[hrst]

Any chance of a photo of this beast Ed? I think I know what you mean but I'd like to be sure. Thanks. Ron

[shoestring]

Ron,

I will try to get a pic in a couple of days

Marcell,

Do you use a shank along with the filler to produce the " fiddle back ".

Ed

[alexander]

Leather Blackening

I don't know if the following technique is already fammiliar with you all, but I use it for some time now. I got it from Robert Knöfel's 'Lehrbuch der Fussbekleidung'

Everyone knows about the dirty black stains made by ion on vegetable tanned leather. But you can also turn this into an advantage. Put a hand full of rusty nails in a large glass bowl and poor vinager to it. Let it stay for about two months and add vinager if the fluid evaporates.

If you put the fluid with a brush to the heel, edge of the sole or bottom, it will turn dark. When dry it will show a dark blue/purple coulered leather, a perfect basis for dark and black finish without the brown leather colour shining trough.

Chrome tanned leather does not respond to the rusty water and will stay in its original colour when accidently spoiled.

The black stains made by ion on leather can be removed by citric acid!

[dearbone]

Alexander,

Welcome to the forum,you raised an important issue that makes me worry every time i hand stitch wet soles,and i am fully familiar with those black stains on soles,i don't blacken the bottom of my leather soles out of fear that, if it get wet it may stain wood or carpet, you mentioned two recipes, one with "rusty nails and vinegar" and the other "citric acid", are they both used as preparation for blackening?and if so how does one remove black stains if one is not intending to blacken the bottom of soles? i have been putting a white towel on my lap when i sole stitch and it seems to help, keeping the bottom free of stains, but some times they appear out of nowhere. Nice to have you here.

Nasser

[alexander]

Nasser,

The black stains are removed by citric acid (in christal form with a little water)... well they are at least less visable, depens on how deep the ion stain got into the leather. I wil make some pictures of the proces and publish them here..

Alexander

[dearbone]

Alexander,

Thank you and looking forward for pictures of the process,please include a picture of the Christal citric acid if possible.

Regards
Nasser

[dw]

Alexander, Nasser,

Try oxalic acid to remove "ironblack" stains. It works much better than thye citric acid I've had access to.

I like to use ironblack for dye. It is non-toxic and won't affect or rub off on rugs, etc..

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[alexander]

Ok thanks, next time I try oxalic acid... I remember using it for 'bleaching' the black stains from hardwood,

Alexander

[hatcreek42]

Oxalic acid is one of the best remedies that I've ever seen. I was told to wash your hands thoroughly ofter using it though, as its toxic if taken internally. I don't know if that's true but it doesn't help my OCD any.

It will absolutely remove any metal stains on the outsole. It seems that no matter how well I maintain my 5 in 1 it always leaves tracks.

Jason

[dw]

It is toxic...but I don't think it will kill you unless you down it straight.

Oxalic acid is derived from rhubarb. One of the commonest mishaps involving it is when folks get impatient and eat green rhubarb--the oxalic acid will close up the throat. But even there I've never heard of anyone dying from it.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[donrwalker]

I eat rhubarb raw and am still fairly lively, although I have slowed down somewhat in the last twenty years. It will certainly give you a healthy pucker.

Don

[mac]

The leaves of rhubarb are toxic. When I was a wee lad, my Grandparents told me a story about a poor family in their neighborhood in England who ran out of money for food. They cooked up the leafy rhubarb greens like spinach. Apparently some of the family died. We may be getting into "old wives tale" territory here. At least I know that Oxalic acid is the toxic substance in rhubarb. I can also clean up stains on soles now too!
Sean

[dearbone]

How does one go about obtaining some of this Oxalic acid? is it sold commercially or should i boil my own rhubarb? Thank you.

Nasser

[hatcreek42]

Nasser,

I get mine from Springfield Leather Company in Springfield, Missouri. It comes as a powder and I mix it up in a plastic water bottle and apply with a clean rag. I guess it doesn't really have to be very clean.

Bo Riddle, works there at the store and can get you what you need.

They are also a good source for odd-lot leathers including exotics.

800-668-8518 should get you to them.

Hope that helps. There are several other companies that carry it as well. I've heard of it being sold in woodworking shops as a bleach.

That should at least keep you from having to distill your own vegetables.

Jason.

[romango]

oxalic acid is also used toi clean automatic coffee makers. you put it in the water and it dissolves away calcium deposits.