sewing machines

[dearbone]

If there is a problem with the link above, google, singer 31k and it will take there.

Nasser

[erickgeer]

Dave,

Awesome reference- my dealer sold me some 21's and 24's last night.


Erick

[thomd]

The K designation is used in other machines than the patcher. There are 95K40s, 96K40s, I was supposed to pick one of each up today. I noticed a lot of other Ks in the archive of manuals. I was wondering if it was just a different way of writing out the dash. I haven't managed to nail it down with searches. Some of the mauals explain the designation, but so far I haven't seen that in a K manual.

Here is the manual for a 31K

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/31K.pdf

[dw]

Well, that's confusing...I don't believe I've ever seen a Singer 31K class machine. But clearly they are as near to identical with 31 class machines without the "k" designation as makes no difference.

I don't think the 31K is a walking foot. I saw an illustration of a 31k28 (?) with a roller foot.

Now that I think about it actually, I seem to remember (from some un-recallable source) that the "K" designation indicated British manufacture.


That may be wrong too, however...memory gets a little unreliable as we get older. (In fact, now that I mention it, I can't figure out why I am posting this here--on the Kilt Forum???)


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[dearbone]

DW,

I agree, it is confusing for us at least, trying to figure out how a company makes it's model numbers,now whether the k is a designation for British made or the machines with roller foot,or something else,i don't know,all i know is that i need a fine sewing machine and the artisan 5110 might be my choice. As for you getting older,well,I personally wish to see you looking over us in this forum until you are 90 years old or more.than you may retire and just supervise so that you may enjoy the fruit of your harvest.

Nasser

[erickgeer]

Tom, Paul and Dave,

I got the 111W101 working with both 138 and 207 thread- changing needle size seemed to do the trick for the heavy thread.

Unfortunately, now it's wonky when I use 69 thread- silly question- what size needle is good for 69? I thought 18 or 20 was okay, but it's looping top and bottom and I think it's the needle size.

Thanks,

Erick

[tmattimore]

If you changed nothing else but the needle and tension I would say the tensions. 18 to 20's are fine for 69 or t70 poly although I use 125(20) for the poly due to the dust factors, 110's get a little on the small size for 69 except for single or double ply of thin stuff.
Tom

[dw]

Erick,

I don't think it's the needle...a size 16 needle (and up) should be good for size 69 thread.

Just a random thought...you will probably have to adjust tension, top and bottom, when switching from 138 down to 69.

But you probably knew that.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[erickgeer]

DW,

I'll see if I can get a 16- I'm probably using an 18 or 20.

This machine has one of those drop-in style bobbins with no removable case- making the bobbin tension adjustment a wee bit more of a hassle than a regular bobbin case like the 31-15.

The upper thread is visibly loose on top, while at the same time the bobbin is pulling down loops of upper thread underneath.

This machine is for the students to use- so it's frowned on to monkey with the tensions too much on my random projects and whims.

Erick

[dw]

Erick,

If you are using an 18 or 20, there is no reason to change. I merely was pointing out that a needle as small as a 16 should work with size 69 thread. The larger needles will work fine too...they just make a little bigger hole.

My first thought is that if you are having the kind of difficulty you describe with the 69 thread, then you really haven't gotten the machine tuned correctly even if it seems to work fine with the larger thread.

This could be a result of the machine being mistimed. I've seen similar results with other machines, which were corrected by going through and carefully timing the needle movement relative to the shuttle hook.

I've also seen something similar occur when a deflected needle put a burr on the shuttle; and sometimes, sometimes, the shuttle just gets so worn from using thread larger than the machine was designed to handle optimally...especially nylon thread...that it will no longer handle lighter weight threads properly.

Do you have a manual? I don't know if operators manuals for this class of machine are all that helpful but if you don't have one...I do (in pdf and email-able).

Mind you, despite having the manual, I've never seen nor owned this particular class of machine...so take all this with a grain of salt. Maybe a pinch would be better.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[jask]

Erick if your machine is not dropping stitches I would guess that someone has already Monkeyed with your top tension. check to see that the thread has not accidentally been run behind a tension plate instead of between. you can also start running a stitch in scrap and lightly pinch the top thread as it feeds into the top tension assembly if this snugs up your stitches then start increasing the tension a quarter turn at a time till your lower thread just stars to "peek" out the top holes then back it off till they sneak back down.

[thomd]

OK, I picked up my three industrial Singers yesterday, for about 19 bucks each. I got a 31K15, a 96K40, and a 95K40. The last was the most expensive, and has the most parts to replace. Figures.

Anyway, today I have an answer from Singer as to what the K means, and it does indeed mean that the machines are made in Great Britain. I was doubtful about that because there are a number of threads where people are talking about how the 29s changed after the K model came in. Which would suggest it was some kind of model change in the US also. Expert opinion on the 29s can revisit that issue.

[jon_g]

I'm wondering about a machine with a presser foot. It's a singer 31-15 and I would like to change it to a roller wheel for use as a gimping machine. Is this possible? I sure hope so as I already have the machine and it never gets used.

Jon

[dw]

Jon,

Changing out the presser foot on a 31-15 is dead simple and changing to a roller foot no harder than any other kind. some folks like to change out the feed dogs as well...and I think that's a good idea if you intend to sew closely along an edge...but since you're going to gimp with it you don't absolutely need to do that.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[headelf]

This dealer on ebay currently listing several roller feet that will work on Singers. Price seems good. No affiliation, just passing on info.
Check out Item number: 180330947716
Georgene

[jon_g]

I just got off the phone with Landis Letendre, suppliers of shoe machinery. They say you cannot change a presser foot for a roller wheel. Has anyone actually done this. I'd hate to have to get another machine, actually I mean my wife would hate for me to have to get another machine.

[dw]

Jon,

I don't mean to come off testy...certainly not at or because of you...but what the heck does a Landis dealer know about Singer sewing machines? Maybe a lot but it's dern sure not a given.

I have changed out presserfeet on my Singers 31 class machines, both ways--presserfoot to roller foot and occasionally roller foot to presserfoot.

If you are unsure take a photo of the presser foot from several angles and post them here, I (or any number of other folks) can tell you in a split second if it is possible.

I suspect, however, that the only reason it may not be possible is if someone changed out the needlebar and put a non-standard (for the 31 class) in in place of the original.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[larrym]

I just changed my 31-15 to a roller foot last week.

It took longer to type this msg than it did to change out the foot.

[thomd]

What about this design on ebay from the same seller. Don't worry about the price because I have seen it for about half that amount.

170095241081

It has a large wheel with bearings, which seems to be something many like. On the other hand, it has a foot. I guess the foot could be chopped off if so required. What say you all?

[thomd]

I bought this package which includes the roller foot, and the needle plate and the, single side, feed dog.

180325775817

I have two singer questions:

- What is a good paint to touch up the black on a singer sewing machine? I wouldn't normally bother but the 31-15s I bought had names scratched in the paint on the tables. The good side is that there is extensive paint on the table to scratch a name into indicating resonably low mileage.

- Now that we solved the mystery of the "K" in the serial numbers, has anyone with a 29K, etc... run into problems with screws having British standard threads?

One site I was on recomended cleaning Singers with Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover, because it cuts through the usual muck, and doesn't hurt decals. I tried it on one of my machines and it did a good job.

[dw]

Thom,

Re: Ebay item 170095241081

I've never seen that kind of presserfoot before. I don't know what purpose it would serve.

It wouldn't work if you were wanting to gimp with your machine. There's no room for the gimping tool and no way to see the "line of dance," so to speak--no way to see where the gimping tool is cutting and thus guide it.

And the whole point of using a roller foot in the first place is to allow you to see, and sew, close to an edge (or another line of stitching while still maintaining good pressure on the material. Having any kind of flat, double "prong," presserfoot, obscures or hides the edge (or lines of stitching) that you want to follow.

I'm not even sure it would mount on a Singer 31 class.


Re: Ebay item 180325775817

This looks more like what you want. It is nearly identical with what I have on my machines...all pieces.If it fits your 31 class machine, you're home free.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[thomd]

Thanks DW! It is on it's way. I hope it does fit my 31-15. The text for all ebay sellers seems to imply that all maner of their presser feet fit every Singer, and most other brands also. Let's hope it works out.

A goodly number of roller feet are just meant to feed sticky materials like leathers and vinyls. If one is not sewing close to an edge, having the full foot, and the contact with two feed dogs might have some advantages. Some roller feet are even integrated with the a standard presser foot, and the rollers look a little like steam rollers. Of course I want to sew next to an edge so I bought the set with the single feed etc... like you have. Thanks.

[romango]

I could potentially get a nice looking, late model Singer patcher for cheap. I'm embarrassed to say, I don't know what these machines are used for, specifically.

As primarily a shoemaker, is there any reason I would want such a machine?

[das]

Rick,

You've missed me singing the praises of a good well-tuned 29-class Singer patcher elsewhere on the Forum. If it's a gray-painted one (factory finish), it's probably from the '60s or '70s or later, and ought to be less worn-out than most of the black ones; however, shoe repair guys have had this allergy to the oil can, so it may be shot too--no way to tell. It's well worth fixing-up IMO.

Restored mechanically, well tuned and properly set-up, a patcher is capable of doing respectable uppers closing on new work, and the combination of cylinder arm and 360 degree feed allows these to go, literally, where no other machine can get to. This machine was in fact designed for stitching new work, especially closing in the elastic side gores into "Chelsea" boots, as well as a multitude of repair jobs. You can stitch fine with teeny #12 needles, or run 3-cord linen machine twist and a #24 needle for doing light belts and the foot lifts quite high for those thick jobs too. Stitch length is variably adjustable from 0/" up to maybe 5/" if all's in good order mechanically. Many shoemakers used these for closing uppers in Europe before the days of electricity everywhere.

If you're lucky, this one might be a "long arm" with the bigger bobbin/shuttle? Those will back-strap riding boots, and the bobbin won't be running out on you in the middle of a project. A "short arm" is ok as well, just not so well suited to boot-work. The smaller bobbins are better suited to odd repair jobs and frequent thread color changes.

Pilgrim machines in Quincy, Mass. has about every part you'd ever need to replace, so they are far from obsolete. Go for it!

[olandrea]

Where can I find the type Number on a Singer sewing machine? Or how can I find out what kind of type it is if I have no papers.
Thanks Olaf