sewing machines

[homeboy]

Lisa,

Giving up your 110W? Wow!
Does Artisan have a upper/lower roller feed flatbed?
Take care!

By the way, great job on the zipper boots!

Adios, Jake

[bootmkr]

Paul, Lisa,
I have several Artisan machines and love them, I have a toro 3000 for closing my side on my boots, a 5550 Big for doing my tops designs with also Paul I have a singer post with a top and bottom rollers for sale with table I'll have to get you the number of the machine I can't think of it right off hand or you can email for more info bootmkr@wildblue.net.

Lonnie

[thomd]

Larry,

thanks for the review. how do you have yours set up? Is it in a table, or do you use the head by itself.

Also, can many machines be set up with a treadle? This is just for curiosity. I like the treadle on my 29K, my other machine uses a floor pedal. The 95K comes with a big motor and full table. I don't intend to change much, though I am not sure I need the full table. Just curious whether the average electric could be run with a treadle if required.

[das]

Thom,

I was a fan of treadles for a long time--electric clutch motors were not "my friends" when I first got mechanized, but over time you should come to love them. The problem with foot-treadle stands relates to the hand-wheel/fly wheel on the particular machine head. Many of the older Singers have a nice heavy cast iron hand-wheel which works fine with treadle foot-power. Others have very light, aluminum hand-wheels that won't.

I have successfully run 17 class, 18 class, 42 class and 45k class heads on treadles, and of course 29k class, but heads like the 236W and newer do not have enough inertia in the hand-wheel to run on them. Hope that helps.

[frank_jones]

Paul Opperman

I was at the Guthrie get-together back in October and my flight back to England did not leave until Tuesday morning. As you will have read, it was a fantastic weekend but one result of this delay was I had the privilege of spending some time in Lisa’s workshop on the Monday. With Lisa’s permission I did some sewing on her Artizan 5110. There is nothing fancy about the machine but it is easy to use partly because it runs relatively slowly and it sews really well. Lisa bought it as a complete package, motor, stand, - the whole lot.

Over the years I have used many different sewing machines, about half of which were post machines, in workshops and shoe factories in Africa, Asia, Australasia, Europe and North America. Some of these machines were very fancy pieces of equipment but the 5110 was better than many of them. It is easy to use and “just does the job” with no fuss or trouble. Lisa said it was a reasonably price and the people at Artizan Sewing Supplies (www.artizansew.com) were a pleasure to deal with.

It is always great when one can give credit to a good supplier to the trade. They get more and more scarce as the years pass.

Frank Jones - HCC Member
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com

[big_larry]

ThomD

To address your question, I use the full table and a variable speed motor from artisan. I like the full table because it allows me to keep the scissors and other stuff right there on the table. It also helps me keep my work flat. I started with a clutch motor (the runaway motor from He--) I then went to a variable that would stop when I lifted my foot off the pedal. The first motor from artisan lost its ability to slow down. They replaced at no cost to me, without any hastle, and even paid the freight. That was a year ago. Since then this motor has worked perfectly.

The variable speed motor allows you to free up the right hand which I used to control the speed with the clutch motor. I can dial the lower speed and then slow down the speed even more with the foot pedal. Sewing around tight corners and turn-backs is much much easier with that kind of control. My stitching is improving even though I still have a very long way to go to approach the quality that Lisa and the others have. The machine does its part, and now I have to develope my own skills.

I have never tried to sew with a treadle or hand wheel with this machine(95K singer), however, I don't see any problem especially if a heavier drive pully were mounted onto the machine. As long as we have electric power, I am solidly in favor of using the variable speed motor.

Just for information, I started stitching with a union special. I didn't like it and it didn't like me. I now have it imprisoned on my basement floor behind a water tank. I purchased the 95K from a fellow in Canada and it immediatly provided me with everything I could ever hope for. In my insecurity, I purchased another 95K from the same fellow for a back up. The backup machine works fine, however, I don't think I can possibly live long enough to wear out the first one. It requires a little oil every 20 or so hours and just keeps on sewing.

I hope you have A lifetime of service from your 95K machine and I wish you well!

Larry Peterson

[thomd]

Thanks Larry, I am looking forward to a lifetime of service, but so far I am not having much luck comunicating with the seller! I am in Canada, so maybe the 95K was well represented up here.

Interesting points DA. I bought a Sailrite machine, basically a customized eastern machine. One of the features they add is a very nice custom stainless handwheel. Not designed for a treadle drive, but I have a ton of metal lathes so I imagine I would make a wheel to get the correct gearing or weight. The Sailrite has an electronic drive, so I am used to those also.

[johanna]

http://artisansew.com is the link to Artisan's site. No "z". I am currently redesigning their site so the typo caught my eye. Look for the new site in the next few days.
Johanna

[das]

Thom,

Many of the Singer fly-wheel/hand-wheels have the same size hole for mounting on the spindle (usually w/ 2 set screws), so you might find an old heavy cast iron one that will retro-fit without having to go to the trouble to make them. After fiddling with foot-treadles, however, I have come to love the clutch motor, so you might try what others have advised--stick with and master the motor, just tuck a tennis ball under the "gas" pedal as you're learning so it doesn't take off flying. Going too fast too quickly seems the be the big complaint on the learning curve here

[thomd]

Thanks for the advice. I guess I could just move over the wheel on my 29k2 for a piece. I doubt I would ever score a wheel though it has gotten easier with online shopping.

My questions about treadles don't really have to do with electric vs. motor issues, though I think others who may use these pages will have that in mind. I have both systems, and until I got the 29K2 last year, I have always used foot or knee electric systems. I'm just interested in what is required to get the treadle operation going when desired. I make spinning wheels and like treadle tools in general. I even have a treadle metal lathe, though the treadle parts are missing. It's just a technology that I enjoy. I think in some cases it seems pretty useful, in other cases it is pretty horrible.

[jesselee]

Thom

If you need a wheel, why not make one out of wood, get it cast and then machine it. My sewing machines have always been treadle and hand crank. The only electrical machine I have in the shop is my 1907 line finisher with curved needle machine on the end. I plan to convert it to steam power when I set up the NM shop.

JesseLee

[thomd]

That sounds exciting. I have to say I have never had any experience getting things cast. It is very comon in some areas to have parts cast. I know some shipwright friends down east would cast special brackets and fittings without giving it a thought. The results would certainly look more authentic.

[jesselee]

Thom

Lots of places in Hamilton to do it. Thats not far from you. And your machin would have a spectacular wheel!

JesseLee

[thomd]

Hamilton is outside of my range. They have awesome stuff there what with the steel industry and all being there. All sorts of laser shops, cheap powdercoaters, etc... There may well be that kind of stuff out here in the east end, but I haven't found it yet. I do find that just about anything I want, is out here, but it can take a while to locate it.

[marcell]

Yesterday I bought twom more sewing machines to my workshop. It was a bit hard to explain to my girlfriend why I need 2 more to the 8 (OK, OK..) existing one, but I keep them really useful.

One is good for side seamed boots and hards stuff. It sew with thick thread (8). No mark, so I don't know the brand. Someone?

8866.jpg

8867.jpg

8868.jpg

The other one is for ballet (and ballerina) shoes.

8869.jpg

8870.jpg

8871.jpg

I guess I cannot put more machine into my workshop. Call me addicted.

[donrwalker]

Marcell

There is no such thing as too many machines. You obviously need a much larger work shop. Ask my wife. She says,"but what am I going to do with them all when you die." It makes me wonder if maybe I should keep an eye on what she's feeding me.

Don

[thomd]

Marcell, what are the other 5 machines? I recall the 45k45 a few pages back, but what about the others? I think we need a group photo.

Do you find these all locally? I see quite a few patchers, and harness machines, but stuff for making shoes I haven't bumped into yet.

[marcell]

Donald: like I would hear myself..

TomD: I will make some photos about them soon..

[erickgeer]

I'm trying to sew with some heavy nylon thread- I can't remember the size (it is at work)- maybe 138 and 207. It's for a computer bag and maybe footwear later- does anyone know a good machine for this weight thread?

I have access to a Singer 111w101 walking foot machine and have gotten poor results so far- I'm going to try a new needle size tomorrow- does anyone know what the thickest thread this model is rated for?

Thanks in advance,

Erick

[thomd]

In my quest for treadle info, I came across this site:

http://www.treadleon.net/

Quite a lot of useful information on converting machines to treadle operation, or restoring heads.

[tmattimore]

Eric for a 207 try a 160 needle but the twist of the thread may be a bigger problem as a lot in that size can be left twist or right twist. For my #9 and Amer st needle I use a left, for the mod 12 and the mckay a right twist, for my pfaff walking foot a left twist.
Tom

[erickgeer]

Thanks Tom,

It's bonded nylon- they don't mark it for twist (that I know of). I'm not sure what a 160 needle would be.

I'll have to double check the size thread when I get down there.

Starting to dream about one of those Artisan heavy duty numbers.

Erick

[dearbone]

DW,

I do have a 31k17 but i just checked http://www.industerial sewing machines.com, and if you look under singer sewing machines pictures,(at the middle of page), there are pictures of two kind of machines 31,31k one is walking foot and the other is roller foot which i have, the 31 and 31k might be this designation,but not %100 sure.

Nasser

(Message edited by dearbone on February 19, 2009)

(Message edited by dearbone on February 19, 2009)

(Message edited by dearbone on February 19, 2009)

[luckyduck]

Erick,

My new Artisan machine is rated up to 138. So it should work on the Singer, too.

The Tippmann boss runs great on 207. Not sure if you could squeeze that in a regular machine or not. Finding a fat enough needle may be the big trick.

Good luck,

Paul

[toro_dave]

A 160 Needle is the same as a # 23. Here is the rest of the story.

70 = 10
75 = 11
80 = 12
90 = 14
100 = 16
110 = 18
120 = 19
125 = 20
130 = 21
140 = 22
160 = 23
180 = 24
200 = 25
230 = 26
250 = 27
280 = 28
300 = 29
330 = 30

I hope this helps.

Artisan Dave