Looking for...
Re: Looking for...
Anumaria,
Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. Do not hesitate to ask questions, even as a complete beginner. None of us were born with shoemaking skills, we've all started out somewhere.
The shoe pictured in the link seems to have a soft rubber sole. It's hard to see from the picture but it could be an EVA foam or sponge rubber. I am not familiar with See Kai Run or Preschoolians so I don't know how soft they really are and what material us comparable. Someone else here may be able to help out with that.
A local shoe repair is always a good starting point, sometimes they have suitable materials and are willing to sell you small quantities or they can refer you to their supplier. If their supplier allows you to come to the warehouse you can actually feel the flexibility of different materials and find something suitable but you may have to buy more than you need for a few pairs.
Good luck and I would be interested to hear what you find.
Rob
Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. Do not hesitate to ask questions, even as a complete beginner. None of us were born with shoemaking skills, we've all started out somewhere.
The shoe pictured in the link seems to have a soft rubber sole. It's hard to see from the picture but it could be an EVA foam or sponge rubber. I am not familiar with See Kai Run or Preschoolians so I don't know how soft they really are and what material us comparable. Someone else here may be able to help out with that.
A local shoe repair is always a good starting point, sometimes they have suitable materials and are willing to sell you small quantities or they can refer you to their supplier. If their supplier allows you to come to the warehouse you can actually feel the flexibility of different materials and find something suitable but you may have to buy more than you need for a few pairs.
Good luck and I would be interested to hear what you find.
Rob
Re: Looking for...
Hi Anumaria - terveppä terve
Do you want to use rubber or leather?
As Robert suggested, your local shoemaker will probably be the best option for rubber, if you are just making one pair. If you intend to to make many pairs, go to Nahkakunta (you will probably need a stock card/tukkukortti).
For leather, you can try Muraja and Nahka-Hanski in Tampere. Kemin nahkatarvike probably sells leather by square foot (30cm*30cm)to private customers - they stock chrome-free vegetable tanned leather, too, which is probably nice to use if you are making slippers for a young child.
Do you want to use rubber or leather?
As Robert suggested, your local shoemaker will probably be the best option for rubber, if you are just making one pair. If you intend to to make many pairs, go to Nahkakunta (you will probably need a stock card/tukkukortti).
For leather, you can try Muraja and Nahka-Hanski in Tampere. Kemin nahkatarvike probably sells leather by square foot (30cm*30cm)to private customers - they stock chrome-free vegetable tanned leather, too, which is probably nice to use if you are making slippers for a young child.
Re: Looking for...
Hi,
I am looking for information on "matrix skiving". This may be a little too industrial from your perspective, but I might as well try my luck, if some of you have tired this method.. Besides I think it would be fun for anyone to experiment, should one have the opportunity to use a skiving machine.
A quote from http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?WO=1994%2F12671&IA=WO1994%2F12671&DISPLAY=DE SC
"The method involves supporting a workpiece between an upper and a lower feed roller whilst it is fed to a band knife. Sandwiched between the workpiece and the upper roller is a matrix (hence the method is referred to as "matrix skiving"
which carries a relief pattern having raised regions corresponding to the workpiece regions that are subsequently to be reduced by the band knife. The regions of the workpiece engaged by the raised relief pattern are forced downwards against a compressible surface on the lower roller, and consequently below the cutting plane of the band knife. Any portion of the workpiece disposed below the cutting plane is removed by the knife as it is fed therepast, and thus a workpiece is produced with a pattern of reduced thickness regions that match the raised relief pattern of the matrix."
If anyone of you have ever skived leather in the mentioned way, can you please tell me if there is another name for the method, and also more about the "workpiece" - its material and producers spesifically. Thank you!
I am looking for information on "matrix skiving". This may be a little too industrial from your perspective, but I might as well try my luck, if some of you have tired this method.. Besides I think it would be fun for anyone to experiment, should one have the opportunity to use a skiving machine.
A quote from http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?WO=1994%2F12671&IA=WO1994%2F12671&DISPLAY=DE SC
"The method involves supporting a workpiece between an upper and a lower feed roller whilst it is fed to a band knife. Sandwiched between the workpiece and the upper roller is a matrix (hence the method is referred to as "matrix skiving"

If anyone of you have ever skived leather in the mentioned way, can you please tell me if there is another name for the method, and also more about the "workpiece" - its material and producers spesifically. Thank you!
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Re: Looking for...
I have seen this process done at the old Amity Leather factory in Albuquerque N.M. They used to make vast amounts of belts, purses, wallets etc.. The matrixs were made in house by die makers. They used it mostly to skive filler pieces for raised belts with different set ups for width and length. The operator would load about a hundred strips into a hopper and they were fed into the matrix and skiver by rollers and squirted out into another hopper about one every three seconds. Unless you are making vast quantities of the same skive It would be extremly expensive to make and set up the rollers. When the factory closed in 1990 most of the specialized tooling like that went to the land fill.
Tom
Tom
Re: Looking for...
Hi Tom,
And thanks for your answer. Do you know what material they used for the matrixes? I have read that rubber can be used, but I am curious if there is a more DIY option for my experiments... I'm thinking something attached to thin rubber to make the relief?
And thanks for your answer. Do you know what material they used for the matrixes? I have read that rubber can be used, but I am curious if there is a more DIY option for my experiments... I'm thinking something attached to thin rubber to make the relief?
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Re: Looking for...
As I recall the rollers were wood cylinders and the matrix appeared to be metal, something like a babbit bearing, a bronze tin mixture. It was a long time ago and the brain gets fuzzy with age. Frank Jones who visits these pages may know a lot more.
Tom
Tom
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Re: Looking for...
Hi H.M.
In reference to the Pattern Skiving . You could call Randall Leather Machinery Corp.Phone 1.718.361.2427 They are very helpful and should be able to tell you what material to use for the pattern skiving . I have a 20" Randall Band knife Splitter in my shop .I have heard of the pattern skiving ,but I have not tried it . Some one who has some experience with it is Fred Coen he is also on the forum .Are you out there Fred?
Hope this helps .
Larry Waller
Walrus Shoe & Leather Co.
www.walrusshoe.com
In reference to the Pattern Skiving . You could call Randall Leather Machinery Corp.Phone 1.718.361.2427 They are very helpful and should be able to tell you what material to use for the pattern skiving . I have a 20" Randall Band knife Splitter in my shop .I have heard of the pattern skiving ,but I have not tried it . Some one who has some experience with it is Fred Coen he is also on the forum .Are you out there Fred?
Hope this helps .
Larry Waller
Walrus Shoe & Leather Co.
www.walrusshoe.com
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Re: Looking for...
H. M. (apologies but do not know how else to address you)
As Tom suggested, I will try to help with your interest in Matrix Skiving.
For general consumption, can I first give a little background on what it is. This was a serious attempt by footwear machinery makers to automate skiving and variable thickness splitting of individual footwear sections or components. Although it is usually called matrix skiving, the equipment is basically a feeder mechanism fitted in front of a band splitter. Instead of the feeding flat material into the splitter - the item, normally an upper section or a bottom component, is fed through a pair of feed rollers. One of these rollers has a specially made contoured surface, a collection of “hills and valleys”. The other roller has a hard rubber but deformable surface with the result that the component is “contoured” as it reaches the band knife of the splitter. What come out of the machine is a component with the raised-up parts cut away.
It never made much of an impact on the skiving of upper components. To this day, most upper skiving in footwear factories and workshops world-wide is done using a bell-knife skiving machine (often described as a Fortuna). Although most are now computer adjusted and set, they are still fed manually.
One application where it is almost a standard piece of equipment is the skiving and splitting of resin rubber soles, for example as fitted to ladies louis-heeled court shoes (pumps in North America).
For reference the USMC/BUSMC machine was the GL12M but there was also an Italian matrix splitter made by Comelz. There were two models, the SS15 and the SS20
Back to your two questions.
1. You ask “if there is another name for the method”.
As far as I know it is always called Matrix Skiving. That was what the makers (USMC or BUSMC) originally called it and I have never heard it called anything else. I personally think the name is misleading and feel the process would be better called something like “Auto-splitting”.
2. Then you say, “also more about the ‘workpiece’ - its material and producers spesifically.”
The workpiece is the upper component or the resin sole that is being skived/split. As Tom assumes above, I think you are asking about is the contoured matrix that raises up parts of the workpiece so that they get split off. The description you have quoted from the Patent says the matrix is, “Sandwiched between the workpiece and the upper roller” . All of the machines I have seen, in probably more than 40 factories, have this matrix incorporated into one of the feed rollers. I am not sure if it is the top or bottom roller but the roller itself has a been built-up in certain places to provide the “hills” which get split off by the machine. The contoured rollers were made to order by specialist suppliers often working with a die making company. Again I cannot be certain but I think the roller was made of hard aluminium alloy and the surface was built up using a series of shaped layers not unlike the technique now used in rapid prototyping of computer-based design shapes. Once the layers were stuck in place they were finally coated with some kind of resin based lacquer, similar to marine grade varnish.
I am not sure if that helps much. It is a very specialist area of shoemaking technology.
I would be interested to know why you were enquiring about this?
Frank Jones
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com
As Tom suggested, I will try to help with your interest in Matrix Skiving.
For general consumption, can I first give a little background on what it is. This was a serious attempt by footwear machinery makers to automate skiving and variable thickness splitting of individual footwear sections or components. Although it is usually called matrix skiving, the equipment is basically a feeder mechanism fitted in front of a band splitter. Instead of the feeding flat material into the splitter - the item, normally an upper section or a bottom component, is fed through a pair of feed rollers. One of these rollers has a specially made contoured surface, a collection of “hills and valleys”. The other roller has a hard rubber but deformable surface with the result that the component is “contoured” as it reaches the band knife of the splitter. What come out of the machine is a component with the raised-up parts cut away.
It never made much of an impact on the skiving of upper components. To this day, most upper skiving in footwear factories and workshops world-wide is done using a bell-knife skiving machine (often described as a Fortuna). Although most are now computer adjusted and set, they are still fed manually.
One application where it is almost a standard piece of equipment is the skiving and splitting of resin rubber soles, for example as fitted to ladies louis-heeled court shoes (pumps in North America).
For reference the USMC/BUSMC machine was the GL12M but there was also an Italian matrix splitter made by Comelz. There were two models, the SS15 and the SS20
Back to your two questions.
1. You ask “if there is another name for the method”.
As far as I know it is always called Matrix Skiving. That was what the makers (USMC or BUSMC) originally called it and I have never heard it called anything else. I personally think the name is misleading and feel the process would be better called something like “Auto-splitting”.
2. Then you say, “also more about the ‘workpiece’ - its material and producers spesifically.”
The workpiece is the upper component or the resin sole that is being skived/split. As Tom assumes above, I think you are asking about is the contoured matrix that raises up parts of the workpiece so that they get split off. The description you have quoted from the Patent says the matrix is, “Sandwiched between the workpiece and the upper roller” . All of the machines I have seen, in probably more than 40 factories, have this matrix incorporated into one of the feed rollers. I am not sure if it is the top or bottom roller but the roller itself has a been built-up in certain places to provide the “hills” which get split off by the machine. The contoured rollers were made to order by specialist suppliers often working with a die making company. Again I cannot be certain but I think the roller was made of hard aluminium alloy and the surface was built up using a series of shaped layers not unlike the technique now used in rapid prototyping of computer-based design shapes. Once the layers were stuck in place they were finally coated with some kind of resin based lacquer, similar to marine grade varnish.
I am not sure if that helps much. It is a very specialist area of shoemaking technology.
I would be interested to know why you were enquiring about this?
Frank Jones
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com
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Re: Looking for...
This is an interesting subject and it's good to get Frank back on our pages. Hi Frank!
This discussion makes me think of a procedure I've done before with a band knife splitter. We used it for belts, but I could see a "jig" being made up for shoe componants too, possibly.
With a belt, we were skiving the fold or turn at the buckle end. We'd work with a belt blank, say 10oz., and we'd want about 6-7oz for the turn. So we made a jig that was 3oz, that was cut to fit our turn area, and would lay it over the belt end and run that thru the splitter, which had been set for 10oz. The 'raised' end where the jig was, would go in at (10+3=)13oz and would come out as 10oz.
Remove the jig and you're left with remainder of 7oz.
I don't know if that addresses the issure at hand, but it's a technique similar to what we're talking about here.
Paul
This discussion makes me think of a procedure I've done before with a band knife splitter. We used it for belts, but I could see a "jig" being made up for shoe componants too, possibly.
With a belt, we were skiving the fold or turn at the buckle end. We'd work with a belt blank, say 10oz., and we'd want about 6-7oz for the turn. So we made a jig that was 3oz, that was cut to fit our turn area, and would lay it over the belt end and run that thru the splitter, which had been set for 10oz. The 'raised' end where the jig was, would go in at (10+3=)13oz and would come out as 10oz.
Remove the jig and you're left with remainder of 7oz.
I don't know if that addresses the issure at hand, but it's a technique similar to what we're talking about here.
Paul
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Re: Looking for...
Paul -
For small guys, I think you might have nailed it. I have read about tapering the ends of Harness in the same manner, but instead of using a flat jig they used a tapered one so that you could pull the end through a bench skiver and you would end up with a nice tapered end.
I would bet you could turn the "Matrix" roller into a flat piece with hills and valleys in it and temporarily bond the material to it. Then when you pulled it through the splitter/skiver only the parts that were on the high sides would get shaved off and the stuff in the valleys would remain their nominal thickness. Not sure how to attach the material to the pattern without boogering up the grain - maybe a low grade rubber cement that would just peel up when you were done.
Maybe wouldn't work, but it was a thought that just popped into my pea brain.
John
For small guys, I think you might have nailed it. I have read about tapering the ends of Harness in the same manner, but instead of using a flat jig they used a tapered one so that you could pull the end through a bench skiver and you would end up with a nice tapered end.
I would bet you could turn the "Matrix" roller into a flat piece with hills and valleys in it and temporarily bond the material to it. Then when you pulled it through the splitter/skiver only the parts that were on the high sides would get shaved off and the stuff in the valleys would remain their nominal thickness. Not sure how to attach the material to the pattern without boogering up the grain - maybe a low grade rubber cement that would just peel up when you were done.
Maybe wouldn't work, but it was a thought that just popped into my pea brain.
John
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Re: Looking for...
H.M.,
I have a 12" USM band knife splitter in storage and getting ready to install in my new studio.I have sucessfully set it up with the bottom feed roller that is a set of about 20 5/8ths.width X 1" diameter off centric spring loaded steel rollers on the bottom shaft that syncronizes with an upper solid shaft.
The materials I incorporated for "pattern splitting"or matrix skiving [I never heard that term used,but it is synomnonous],are vegetable tanned cowhide,texon insole board and I am sure rubber is good too.I think rubber would require a high durometer like 55 or 65.
I am curious too like Frank Jones,what are you trying to achieve? I have pattern split a 12" 5mm soling leather for a leather frisbee creating a 1mm flight plate and 5mm rim with a 4 sided pyramid embossed in the center of the flight plate.It flys like a charm and I produced a few prototypes and had many shops ready to buy but never produced them for several reasons.But after about 2 thousand hours of R&D and other interest like making a living,I thought maybe I would pick it up again.
I do know that there lies enormous potential in design in shoes,handbags,small leather goods and accessories with pattern splitting.
Hope this helps,please let us know of your goals,these band knife splitters require TLC and can split heavy and light weight leathers to the thickness of paper.
Fred Coen
I have a 12" USM band knife splitter in storage and getting ready to install in my new studio.I have sucessfully set it up with the bottom feed roller that is a set of about 20 5/8ths.width X 1" diameter off centric spring loaded steel rollers on the bottom shaft that syncronizes with an upper solid shaft.
The materials I incorporated for "pattern splitting"or matrix skiving [I never heard that term used,but it is synomnonous],are vegetable tanned cowhide,texon insole board and I am sure rubber is good too.I think rubber would require a high durometer like 55 or 65.
I am curious too like Frank Jones,what are you trying to achieve? I have pattern split a 12" 5mm soling leather for a leather frisbee creating a 1mm flight plate and 5mm rim with a 4 sided pyramid embossed in the center of the flight plate.It flys like a charm and I produced a few prototypes and had many shops ready to buy but never produced them for several reasons.But after about 2 thousand hours of R&D and other interest like making a living,I thought maybe I would pick it up again.
I do know that there lies enormous potential in design in shoes,handbags,small leather goods and accessories with pattern splitting.
Hope this helps,please let us know of your goals,these band knife splitters require TLC and can split heavy and light weight leathers to the thickness of paper.
Fred Coen
Re: Looking for...
Hi Everyone,
I got so exited that I didn't even realize that the matrix is actually a feeder mechanism, as Frank cleared it out. And yes, I misunderstood the workpiece to be the actual matrix - thank you for clearing that out. It has been extremely interesting to read about your experiences with the "industrial" matrixes.
However, my brains were thinking the exact same as Paul and John. What I am about to try out is this kind of "hill and valley" pattern placed on top of the piece to be skived. How - well that is another question. At first I will probably just stick leather, rubber or some other material onto the "matrix" pattern. To avoid movement whilst split, I thought I'd just lightly glue the sandwich together from the sides, just like John suggested.
What comes to my own interest in this, well, I just read about it and thought this is something you don't come across every day, and as I am a footwear student, I am curious to experiment. I, too started thinking about the potential of the method: is it useable in, say, altering the look of the leather (for boot legs, for instance) or for skiving the central part of the piece, as this cannot be done with bell-knife skiving machine.
I am mostly intersted in trying this out first - maybe do the thinking later...
Thank you for sharing you views,
Hanna
I got so exited that I didn't even realize that the matrix is actually a feeder mechanism, as Frank cleared it out. And yes, I misunderstood the workpiece to be the actual matrix - thank you for clearing that out. It has been extremely interesting to read about your experiences with the "industrial" matrixes.
However, my brains were thinking the exact same as Paul and John. What I am about to try out is this kind of "hill and valley" pattern placed on top of the piece to be skived. How - well that is another question. At first I will probably just stick leather, rubber or some other material onto the "matrix" pattern. To avoid movement whilst split, I thought I'd just lightly glue the sandwich together from the sides, just like John suggested.
What comes to my own interest in this, well, I just read about it and thought this is something you don't come across every day, and as I am a footwear student, I am curious to experiment. I, too started thinking about the potential of the method: is it useable in, say, altering the look of the leather (for boot legs, for instance) or for skiving the central part of the piece, as this cannot be done with bell-knife skiving machine.
I am mostly intersted in trying this out first - maybe do the thinking later...
Thank you for sharing you views,
Hanna
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Re: Looking for...
In regards to your question about soles for toddler shoes, I believe Soft Stars simply uses suede; another material that is available is a thin black neoprene fabric - toughtek PE + neoprene fabric from www.ahh.biz. I could send you a piece of it if you would like. Sharon
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Re: Looking for...
All,
For those seriously interested in possibly ordering tools and materials offered by Goetz, please contact me. I believe I can facilitate access to the Goetz website so that it may be used as an online catalog of what is available.
One caveat...prices are not quoted in this version.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
For those seriously interested in possibly ordering tools and materials offered by Goetz, please contact me. I believe I can facilitate access to the Goetz website so that it may be used as an online catalog of what is available.
One caveat...prices are not quoted in this version.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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Re: Looking for...
All,
OK, now that I have found brass brads, I need to find the toplifts.
Does anyone know where to get the English style combination toplift for men's shoes? The kind with the jigsaw puzzle-like plug in the center of the rubber?
I know I I can get them out of Germany but I need a source here in the US.
Anyone?!
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
OK, now that I have found brass brads, I need to find the toplifts.
Does anyone know where to get the English style combination toplift for men's shoes? The kind with the jigsaw puzzle-like plug in the center of the rubber?
I know I I can get them out of Germany but I need a source here in the US.
Anyone?!
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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Re: Looking for...
DW,
I was looking around and came across Frankford Leather. They have a section for toplifts with 12 different brands/styles, but no pictures! It might be worth a call though to see if they have the style you are looking for. They are located in Bensalem, PA.
http://www.frankfordleather.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code =Toplifts
I was looking around and came across Frankford Leather. They have a section for toplifts with 12 different brands/styles, but no pictures! It might be worth a call though to see if they have the style you are looking for. They are located in Bensalem, PA.
http://www.frankfordleather.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code =Toplifts
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Re: Looking for...
Eli,
Thanks Eli, but no joy there, I don't believe.
Anyone else?
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Thanks Eli, but no joy there, I don't believe.
Anyone else?
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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Re: Looking for...
DW,
I just went through my Canadian catalogs. No luck there. Scratch off Labelle Supply and National shoe from your list.
Sean
I just went through my Canadian catalogs. No luck there. Scratch off Labelle Supply and National shoe from your list.
Sean
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Re: Looking for...
DW,
I looked at my local suppliar here in Toronto,I saw one design in men's combinnation, Thickness 10.5 Iron and they call them fineline design.
www.nationalshoe.com
They have a picture of the heel on their catalog, but not sure they have one on line.
I looked at my local suppliar here in Toronto,I saw one design in men's combinnation, Thickness 10.5 Iron and they call them fineline design.
www.nationalshoe.com
They have a picture of the heel on their catalog, but not sure they have one on line.
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Re: Looking for...
DW:
I believe I got mine from Hanover Leather in Massachusetts. You can see what they look like in my pics of the shoes I've posted. They are not quite as nice, IMO, as those used by the likes of Alden, as the cut-out has some rounded edges, as opposed to the very sharp-angled version; also, I believe the nicer ones actually have a full-size rubber piece, topped by the leather, whereas mine are two separate pieces without any connection.
Lance
I believe I got mine from Hanover Leather in Massachusetts. You can see what they look like in my pics of the shoes I've posted. They are not quite as nice, IMO, as those used by the likes of Alden, as the cut-out has some rounded edges, as opposed to the very sharp-angled version; also, I believe the nicer ones actually have a full-size rubber piece, topped by the leather, whereas mine are two separate pieces without any connection.
Lance
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Re: Looking for...
Nasser,
I looked there but maybe I'm misinterpretting what DW is looking for. Is there a picture somewhere in the Gallery of what You are looking for DW?
Sean
I looked there but maybe I'm misinterpretting what DW is looking for. Is there a picture somewhere in the Gallery of what You are looking for DW?
Sean
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Re: Looking for...
Sean,
If you look at national shoe catalog 2008 the combination heel is on page 74 and in 2007 catalog the heel is on page 72, the code is 1CH
Nasser
If you look at national shoe catalog 2008 the combination heel is on page 74 and in 2007 catalog the heel is on page 72, the code is 1CH
Nasser
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Re: Looking for...
Nasser,
well... there it is. I guess I'd better have another sip of coffee to concentrate harder.
BTW Nasser, I've been admiring your work. Beautiful shoes and boots!
DW, The toplift in our catalog is a V-line type of design. Is that what you are looking for? Good price too...
Sean
well... there it is. I guess I'd better have another sip of coffee to concentrate harder.
BTW Nasser, I've been admiring your work. Beautiful shoes and boots!
DW, The toplift in our catalog is a V-line type of design. Is that what you are looking for? Good price too...
Sean
- dearbone
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- Posts: 1032
- Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:23 pm
- Full Name: Nasser Vies
- Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Re: Looking for...
Sean,
Thanks, Do you know a suppliar for veg tan sole and insole bends or strips in Canada? I have been using Italian bottoming leather,but it is too hard for hand sewing.
Nasser
Thanks, Do you know a suppliar for veg tan sole and insole bends or strips in Canada? I have been using Italian bottoming leather,but it is too hard for hand sewing.
Nasser