Learning the language--Could someone define heel draft (quarter curve)? First thought it was the sideseam flare in the patterns between the throat and insole on the counter and vamp(side draft?). Now, not sure. Have had similar problems and impressed at the improvement between the two pictures.
Thanks, Chuck
Lasting
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paul
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Re: Lasting
Chuck,
First, Thanks for the comment on the improvement. It's reassuring to me that it came out so well. I'm eager to get to the finished towers.
I know what you mean about the terminology. But considering this quarter curve cut is our control for heel height, I think it works. With DW's patterns the angle on the counter and it's cover are constant for all heel heights.
Maybe the man himself will pick this up from here.
PK
First, Thanks for the comment on the improvement. It's reassuring to me that it came out so well. I'm eager to get to the finished towers.
I know what you mean about the terminology. But considering this quarter curve cut is our control for heel height, I think it works. With DW's patterns the angle on the counter and it's cover are constant for all heel heights.
Maybe the man himself will pick this up from here.
PK
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dw
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Re: Lasting
Chuck,
The "heel draft" is the inverted, shallow "v" shape on the bottom of the back panel. I generally leave it at a half inch...for most heel heights. But on anything above inch and half - inch and five-eights, I'll increase that to three-quarter inch (or one third the height of the heel).
Why don't I do that for lower heeled lasts, I hear you ask?...because on my models, at least, there is little or no "degree in the heel."
Degree in the heel is a lastmaker's term for the angle of inclination from the breast of the heel to the back of the heel. It is generally thought that any heel height over inch and a half is unhealthy for the foot (maybe so, maybe no) and needs some angle to prevent the foot from feeling like it is standing on a large rock. Heel height is properly measured at the inside breast of the heel (so told to me by E.J. McDaniels) and when a last has little or no degree, it will measure the same there as at the back of the heel.
But at inch and a half and below, there doesn't need to be much, if any, degree in the heel. This means that, theoretically, the back part of all lasts in a model series below inch and a half are identical...only the angle of the forepart changes. So the heel draft on the patterns can be the same for a seven-eighths inch heel, an inch and a quarter heel, and an inch and five-eighths inch heel...provided the lasts have no degree in the heel.
When I advised Paul to deepen the heel draft, the effect was to drag the center of the back panel down while allowing the counter, and the counter cover, as well as the vamp to remain exactly where they were. Pulling down the center of the back panel allows it to pivot at the side seam, effectively, and that, in turn, straightens it up.
Hope this helps...
Paul,
Thank you for giving Chuck an explanation. Sometimes, despite the fact that I am sincerely interested and passionate about the answers, I feel like I am answering too soon...before anyone else has a chance. Of course, this is mostly an artifact of my being here and moderating the forum but it is good to sit back sometimes and know that these legitimate questions will not go begging...leaving the questioner feeling ignored.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
The "heel draft" is the inverted, shallow "v" shape on the bottom of the back panel. I generally leave it at a half inch...for most heel heights. But on anything above inch and half - inch and five-eights, I'll increase that to three-quarter inch (or one third the height of the heel).
Why don't I do that for lower heeled lasts, I hear you ask?...because on my models, at least, there is little or no "degree in the heel."
Degree in the heel is a lastmaker's term for the angle of inclination from the breast of the heel to the back of the heel. It is generally thought that any heel height over inch and a half is unhealthy for the foot (maybe so, maybe no) and needs some angle to prevent the foot from feeling like it is standing on a large rock. Heel height is properly measured at the inside breast of the heel (so told to me by E.J. McDaniels) and when a last has little or no degree, it will measure the same there as at the back of the heel.
But at inch and a half and below, there doesn't need to be much, if any, degree in the heel. This means that, theoretically, the back part of all lasts in a model series below inch and a half are identical...only the angle of the forepart changes. So the heel draft on the patterns can be the same for a seven-eighths inch heel, an inch and a quarter heel, and an inch and five-eighths inch heel...provided the lasts have no degree in the heel.
When I advised Paul to deepen the heel draft, the effect was to drag the center of the back panel down while allowing the counter, and the counter cover, as well as the vamp to remain exactly where they were. Pulling down the center of the back panel allows it to pivot at the side seam, effectively, and that, in turn, straightens it up.
Hope this helps...
Paul,
Thank you for giving Chuck an explanation. Sometimes, despite the fact that I am sincerely interested and passionate about the answers, I feel like I am answering too soon...before anyone else has a chance. Of course, this is mostly an artifact of my being here and moderating the forum but it is good to sit back sometimes and know that these legitimate questions will not go begging...leaving the questioner feeling ignored.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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chuck_deats
Re: Lasting
Paul, DW,
Thank you both for the detailed answers to my question. Took a while to digest it. Made paper patterns and think I see the effect. Thought this dimension was a routine constant for all boots. Thanks to Paul's example and re-reading DW's book, I think I see where it has been causing problems (it goes on my list). The side draft (quarter curve?) made a major improvement on the last pair. Maybe this will fix it on the next pair. It is fun how an error on one step won't jump up and bite you until many steps down the line. Paul has again shown that fitter boots are well worth the time and trouble, in particular for a novice.
DW--Please keep answering the questions. When we jump in with answers, your confirmation, correction, improvement, or additional detail is appreciated.
Chuck
Thank you both for the detailed answers to my question. Took a while to digest it. Made paper patterns and think I see the effect. Thought this dimension was a routine constant for all boots. Thanks to Paul's example and re-reading DW's book, I think I see where it has been causing problems (it goes on my list). The side draft (quarter curve?) made a major improvement on the last pair. Maybe this will fix it on the next pair. It is fun how an error on one step won't jump up and bite you until many steps down the line. Paul has again shown that fitter boots are well worth the time and trouble, in particular for a novice.
DW--Please keep answering the questions. When we jump in with answers, your confirmation, correction, improvement, or additional detail is appreciated.
Chuck
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paul
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Re: Lasting
OK, here's where I have to admit to being part of the problem.
DW, when you said,"Cut the heel draft deeper the next time, say, three-quarter inch. Theoretically, this should draw the top down and back a little without affecting the heel stiffener."...
...I heard quarter curve, and so cut that deeper than the template for cutting the vamp indicates after it came off of the board.
However, pulling my head out of a dark place, I see that what you were refering to was the inverted V cut at the bottom of the back panel, the heel draft, and not the quarter curve on the tongue of the vamp. My bad.
You're right about this heel draft cut being something I've been doing differently. There is only a half inch raise in it's cut. And I do see how this would be responsible for my tilt. I will try 3/4" at this point next time.
Well, now I guess I'll get to see the consequences of cutting the quarter curve deeper than instructed for a 2 1/4" heel. He comes to try them on tomorrow. Are there any other things you can warn me to watch for by cutting this curve so much beyond your reccomendation?
Chuck, my apologies for being part of your confusion, and anyone elses.
I hope I've covered my error.
Paul
DW, when you said,"Cut the heel draft deeper the next time, say, three-quarter inch. Theoretically, this should draw the top down and back a little without affecting the heel stiffener."...
...I heard quarter curve, and so cut that deeper than the template for cutting the vamp indicates after it came off of the board.
However, pulling my head out of a dark place, I see that what you were refering to was the inverted V cut at the bottom of the back panel, the heel draft, and not the quarter curve on the tongue of the vamp. My bad.
You're right about this heel draft cut being something I've been doing differently. There is only a half inch raise in it's cut. And I do see how this would be responsible for my tilt. I will try 3/4" at this point next time.
Well, now I guess I'll get to see the consequences of cutting the quarter curve deeper than instructed for a 2 1/4" heel. He comes to try them on tomorrow. Are there any other things you can warn me to watch for by cutting this curve so much beyond your reccomendation?
Chuck, my apologies for being part of your confusion, and anyone elses.
I hope I've covered my error.
Paul
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dw
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Re: Lasting
Paul,
I'm not sure what you mean by the quarter curve? For me, the quarter curve is the curve of the top edge of the vamp as it proceeds from the tongue to the sideseam.
The side draft is the side draft and is in the top patterns only. It controls access into the boot and allows a wider tongue, a higher break and forces the boot to hug the last all around the throat area.
If you cut the quarter curve "deeper"...such that it narrowes the tongue...that might make the boot sit higher on the cone and the tops would lean back...amybe compensating for too much forward lean. It might also open up the heel stiffener in the back.
If you cut the quarter curve with the quarter curve template such that the template was dropped down on the blocked vamp (toe end of the template raised) That too might cause the boot to ride higher on the cone. Maybe not so much gaping in the back though.
If you cut the side drafts deeper (narrower), that also would make the boot sit higher on the last but you might not get your customer's foot into the boot.
All of which kind of illustrates how difficult it is to control things like lean--which is, presumably, why Luchesse said "all boots lean"--in some cases it might be a combination of quarter curve manipulation and heel draft change that gets them sitting upright without compromising the cupping at the back of the heel.
Bottom line is that treeing covers a multitude of sins as long as your boot is pulled in close to the last all the way around...but especially in the back.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
I'm not sure what you mean by the quarter curve? For me, the quarter curve is the curve of the top edge of the vamp as it proceeds from the tongue to the sideseam.
The side draft is the side draft and is in the top patterns only. It controls access into the boot and allows a wider tongue, a higher break and forces the boot to hug the last all around the throat area.
If you cut the quarter curve "deeper"...such that it narrowes the tongue...that might make the boot sit higher on the cone and the tops would lean back...amybe compensating for too much forward lean. It might also open up the heel stiffener in the back.
If you cut the quarter curve with the quarter curve template such that the template was dropped down on the blocked vamp (toe end of the template raised) That too might cause the boot to ride higher on the cone. Maybe not so much gaping in the back though.
If you cut the side drafts deeper (narrower), that also would make the boot sit higher on the last but you might not get your customer's foot into the boot.
All of which kind of illustrates how difficult it is to control things like lean--which is, presumably, why Luchesse said "all boots lean"--in some cases it might be a combination of quarter curve manipulation and heel draft change that gets them sitting upright without compromising the cupping at the back of the heel.
Bottom line is that treeing covers a multitude of sins as long as your boot is pulled in close to the last all the way around...but especially in the back.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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dw
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Re: Lasting
Paul, Chuck,
One other thought...maybe yes, maybe no...don't hoist so much.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
(Message edited by dw on August 23, 2007)
One other thought...maybe yes, maybe no...don't hoist so much.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
(Message edited by dw on August 23, 2007)
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chuck_deats
Re: Lasting
Paul, DW,
Ain't language fun. Glad to see I was not the only one who did not totally understand. Not completely convinced on the heel draft thing, but will try what I think I read on my next fitters.
Paul--No apology required. Whatever you did sure looks like it fixed the problem based on the pictures. Thanks for posting them so we can all learn. You had to throw fitters in the trash maybe others of us won't have to.
Chuck
Ain't language fun. Glad to see I was not the only one who did not totally understand. Not completely convinced on the heel draft thing, but will try what I think I read on my next fitters.
Paul--No apology required. Whatever you did sure looks like it fixed the problem based on the pictures. Thanks for posting them so we can all learn. You had to throw fitters in the trash maybe others of us won't have to.
Chuck
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paul
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Re: Lasting
<If you cut the quarter curve with the quarter curve template such that
the template was dropped down on the blocked vamp (toe end of the
template raised) That too might cause the boot to ride higher on the
cone. Maybe not so much gaping in the back though.>
DW,
That's what I was trying to say, that is what I have done. And it did draw the boot closer on the last. As I said it lines up beter with the mark for the High Instep.
There is still enough lean to ask for a deeper cut in the heel draft, as well. I believe I can do that with confidence on the actual pair without another fitter.
It'll be a few weeks, but I'll post pictures.
Back to practcin',
PK
the template was dropped down on the blocked vamp (toe end of the
template raised) That too might cause the boot to ride higher on the
cone. Maybe not so much gaping in the back though.>
DW,
That's what I was trying to say, that is what I have done. And it did draw the boot closer on the last. As I said it lines up beter with the mark for the High Instep.
There is still enough lean to ask for a deeper cut in the heel draft, as well. I believe I can do that with confidence on the actual pair without another fitter.
It'll be a few weeks, but I'll post pictures.
Back to practcin',
PK
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ridgerunrbunny
Re: Lasting
Where Can I find out about cementing/glueing the topsole to a bottom sole. I want to know what kind of adhesive holds the best on leather or rubber/other. How to make it stick for a long time, the best technique. I have looked in the forum but it is rather confusing not knowing just what I'm talking about, much less anyone else. I am just beginning so its not like I am making top of the line stuff yet, just learning.
Bunny
Bunny
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marcell
Re: Lasting
Bunny,
I would like to draw your attention to this video:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=2s8x1BuvGTg
you can see how to attach a sole. On the other hand: choose a "pressure" adhesive. You can find detailed description about using on the box (and I am sure that soon there will be some guy here, who can explain you, much better than I would). You should only choose adhesives which are made specially for shoe industry.
I would like to draw your attention to this video:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=2s8x1BuvGTg
you can see how to attach a sole. On the other hand: choose a "pressure" adhesive. You can find detailed description about using on the box (and I am sure that soon there will be some guy here, who can explain you, much better than I would). You should only choose adhesives which are made specially for shoe industry.
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artzend
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Re: Lasting
Bunny,
If you are intending to stick the sole on and not go the welting route, you will need a good adhesive. I believe that in the States you would use Barge as an all purpose neoprene based contact adhesive but if I am wrong someone can tell us.
You will need to sand the bottoms to remove all traces of wax and dye etc.
Fill the space left across the bottom of the last.
Then sand the surface of the soling material too.
Apply two coats of adhesive to each surface leaving each to dry completely before re gluing. The reason for two coats is that sometimes one is not enough and it is better to be safe than sorry.
When the second coat has dried completely, and not before, heat the sole unit surface only. Do not heat the upper surface or it will let go of the insole.
When the sole surface is tacky from the heat, press it to the upper. The heat in the sole surface will activate the other layer and bonding is easy. If you don't have a press, hammer the sole into place to force out any air. Use a belt to help press the sole on as continuous pressure is better than anything else.
Hope that makes sense to you.
Tim
If you are intending to stick the sole on and not go the welting route, you will need a good adhesive. I believe that in the States you would use Barge as an all purpose neoprene based contact adhesive but if I am wrong someone can tell us.
You will need to sand the bottoms to remove all traces of wax and dye etc.
Fill the space left across the bottom of the last.
Then sand the surface of the soling material too.
Apply two coats of adhesive to each surface leaving each to dry completely before re gluing. The reason for two coats is that sometimes one is not enough and it is better to be safe than sorry.
When the second coat has dried completely, and not before, heat the sole unit surface only. Do not heat the upper surface or it will let go of the insole.
When the sole surface is tacky from the heat, press it to the upper. The heat in the sole surface will activate the other layer and bonding is easy. If you don't have a press, hammer the sole into place to force out any air. Use a belt to help press the sole on as continuous pressure is better than anything else.
Hope that makes sense to you.
Tim
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ridgerunrbunny
Re: Lasting
I'm not lasting yet. I got Sharon Raymonds book and am following the directions without a Last. Been trying to find a pair for hubby and self to no avail. Emailed Global several times but no response. Tried ebay only to get out bid. I'll get there, but in the mean time adhesives were the first bridge I needed information on. I have some barge, not much, I was looking at Renia on MacPhearson's site. They are supposed to have soleing too but their link is a 404 error. I called them and they said they would have it up in a few days. Since they take paypal it would be helpful and quick to buy what I need from them.
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ridgerunrbunny
Re: Lasting
Thank you Marcell, I will try to view it, but we are on a very slow dialup and cannot usually download films.
Bunny
Bunny
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paul
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Re: Lasting
Bunny,
I can see you're persevering. Very good.
OK, here's another thing, which you've alread found is involved in breaking in, door keepers. You know. It could be anyone, but it is someone with the knowledge to help us get over the mote, and into the castle, where many more trials await. (I sure am fullofit today, excuse me)
Please excuse me if it sounds exclusionist. Really it's not. Many of us just spent a weekend with master shoe and boot makers who were very very validating to all in attendance.
Tim's advise on glueing was good. I think we'll all benifit from his participation with us now. Thanks Tim.
Understanding lasts has definently been one of those doors for me. And Bill Tippet has been my door keeper. And Bill is very interested in helping us get lasts by onesies. That is why he has been working for a year on OLGA. It so new, and it's so close.
Maybe I can be of help to you, and thereby we can be an example of how it works for the others who are inrterested in Bill's deal.
I'm not a paid salesman, I have no intertest in selling lasts. Really, only buying them and using them. But I've had the priveledge to get to play with OLGA early. I'm willing to share what I've learned about it. I'm willing to support Bill's efforts to make single pairs of lasts available.
When you are ready to order a pair, let me help if you have any questions. We'll do it in "front of God and everybody". This offer is to anyone.
Sincerely, Paul
I can see you're persevering. Very good.
OK, here's another thing, which you've alread found is involved in breaking in, door keepers. You know. It could be anyone, but it is someone with the knowledge to help us get over the mote, and into the castle, where many more trials await. (I sure am fullofit today, excuse me)
Please excuse me if it sounds exclusionist. Really it's not. Many of us just spent a weekend with master shoe and boot makers who were very very validating to all in attendance.
Tim's advise on glueing was good. I think we'll all benifit from his participation with us now. Thanks Tim.
Understanding lasts has definently been one of those doors for me. And Bill Tippet has been my door keeper. And Bill is very interested in helping us get lasts by onesies. That is why he has been working for a year on OLGA. It so new, and it's so close.
Maybe I can be of help to you, and thereby we can be an example of how it works for the others who are inrterested in Bill's deal.
I'm not a paid salesman, I have no intertest in selling lasts. Really, only buying them and using them. But I've had the priveledge to get to play with OLGA early. I'm willing to share what I've learned about it. I'm willing to support Bill's efforts to make single pairs of lasts available.
When you are ready to order a pair, let me help if you have any questions. We'll do it in "front of God and everybody". This offer is to anyone.
Sincerely, Paul
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ridgerunrbunny
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paul
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Re: Lasting
Bunny,
I was just offering to be of assistance when you're ready to order lasts from Global Footwear Solutions.
PK
I was just offering to be of assistance when you're ready to order lasts from Global Footwear Solutions.
PK
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ridgerunrbunny
Re: Lasting
Ooooh, OK, Thank you.
I need to know what would be a good sole material. I don't like wasting money trying things I will never use. Are there any suggestions? For a outer sole, I would want something sturdy of course for durability, fairly thick for comfort. I have that heel thingy, not quite a spur I don't think, but a pain toward the back of my arch (what there is of one). So something soft and foot forming for an insole. Suggestions, or is this the wrong place for this question?
I need to know what would be a good sole material. I don't like wasting money trying things I will never use. Are there any suggestions? For a outer sole, I would want something sturdy of course for durability, fairly thick for comfort. I have that heel thingy, not quite a spur I don't think, but a pain toward the back of my arch (what there is of one). So something soft and foot forming for an insole. Suggestions, or is this the wrong place for this question?
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paul
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Re: Lasting
Bunny,
I'll attempt to answer over in the Outsoles thread.
Here's the link to jump over to that thread in Techniques, Crans and Visualizations:
http://www.thehcc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1335
At least I hope it'll take you there.
PK
I'll attempt to answer over in the Outsoles thread.
Here's the link to jump over to that thread in Techniques, Crans and Visualizations:
http://www.thehcc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1335
At least I hope it'll take you there.
PK
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j1a2g3
Re: Lasting
I'm at a lost and any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am about to last my hiking boot using the wet method and hoisting the heel in place. My upper is 7-8oz latigo leather and my counter is about 10 iron insole leather.
I have always molded my counter ahead of time and inserted it after I lasted the shoe. I don't think this will work with the thickness and stiffness of the upper this time. I'm afraid I won't be able to roll back the upper, once it's lasted, so I can glue in the counter.
I've been thinking of putting it in before lasting but I'm not sure how to place it on the upper before hand. I have a 10mm lasting allowance. Should the top of the notches on the bottom of the counter match the 10mm line on the upper? Should I sew it to the upper first? I like this idea because then it won't slide around. Or is glueing it enough to hold it there over the long haul?
Opinions, advice is surely needed, Joel
I am about to last my hiking boot using the wet method and hoisting the heel in place. My upper is 7-8oz latigo leather and my counter is about 10 iron insole leather.
I have always molded my counter ahead of time and inserted it after I lasted the shoe. I don't think this will work with the thickness and stiffness of the upper this time. I'm afraid I won't be able to roll back the upper, once it's lasted, so I can glue in the counter.
I've been thinking of putting it in before lasting but I'm not sure how to place it on the upper before hand. I have a 10mm lasting allowance. Should the top of the notches on the bottom of the counter match the 10mm line on the upper? Should I sew it to the upper first? I like this idea because then it won't slide around. Or is glueing it enough to hold it there over the long haul?
Opinions, advice is surely needed, Joel
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dw
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Re: Lasting
Joel,,
Here's the "blind leading the blind"...(I've never made a hiking boot and hope I never have to
)
If you have a 10mm lasting allowance on the upper and a 10 mmm lasting allowance on the heel stiffener, I would think you surely ought to be able to align the edges and be home free.
Advice from the peanut gallery...
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Here's the "blind leading the blind"...(I've never made a hiking boot and hope I never have to
) If you have a 10mm lasting allowance on the upper and a 10 mmm lasting allowance on the heel stiffener, I would think you surely ought to be able to align the edges and be home free.
Advice from the peanut gallery...
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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relferink
Re: Lasting
Joel,
You could still pre-form your counter, specially a 10 iron would be nice to have shaped ahead of time. Once shaped place it in your upper, line it up along the bottom, I would suggest leaving the counter slightly higher before you start lasting, it's easier to pull it down than having to force it back up.
Be generous with your press cement or any other cement you use to secure it in place. An all purpose would probably set to quickly, press cement would work just fine.
Last the hiking boot, hoist the back in place. If needed this is where you pull the counter down slightly, chances are you don't have to but the wet cement will allow it to slide in place.
Another way go go is to last the lining, leave the vamp without tacks so you have play to fold back the heel. As long as your lining is securely in place you'll be able to last everything up securely after the counter is on.
Hope this helps
Rob
You could still pre-form your counter, specially a 10 iron would be nice to have shaped ahead of time. Once shaped place it in your upper, line it up along the bottom, I would suggest leaving the counter slightly higher before you start lasting, it's easier to pull it down than having to force it back up.
Be generous with your press cement or any other cement you use to secure it in place. An all purpose would probably set to quickly, press cement would work just fine.
Last the hiking boot, hoist the back in place. If needed this is where you pull the counter down slightly, chances are you don't have to but the wet cement will allow it to slide in place.
Another way go go is to last the lining, leave the vamp without tacks so you have play to fold back the heel. As long as your lining is securely in place you'll be able to last everything up securely after the counter is on.
Hope this helps
Rob
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j1a2g3
Re: Lasting
DW, Robert
Thanks for your help.
I got a better idea of what to do now.
I'll post a picture once their lasted. Joel
Thanks for your help.
I got a better idea of what to do now.
I'll post a picture once their lasted. Joel
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erickgeer
Re: Lasting
Recently, Georgene asked me to elaborate on how I make shoes. I did a show back at the beginning of the year and I made a photo essay on the process. I am only going to post images that illustrate how my process is different from a true veldtschoen and a full cement lasted construction- there are thirteen pictures in this cycle.
Erick
The finished shoe seems like a good place to start:
Lining lasted to a leather insole with cement:
The uppers are pre-lasted without cement (I've already installed stiffeners at this point):
Erick
The finished shoe seems like a good place to start:
Lining lasted to a leather insole with cement:
The uppers are pre-lasted without cement (I've already installed stiffeners at this point):
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erickgeer
Re: Lasting
Semi-stitching part two:
After the uppers are allowed to dry, I punch strain relief holes at the featherline where the veldt will start. Then I slit the lasting margin at same. This makes it a partial veldt (I could flange the lasting margin the whole way around without slitting for a full veldt). Behind the slits I will cement last the lasting margin and then install shanks and covers/filler:
I cement a tempered sole/midsole to the shoe with the upper free from the lining:
After the sole/midsole is on:
After the uppers are allowed to dry, I punch strain relief holes at the featherline where the veldt will start. Then I slit the lasting margin at same. This makes it a partial veldt (I could flange the lasting margin the whole way around without slitting for a full veldt). Behind the slits I will cement last the lasting margin and then install shanks and covers/filler:
I cement a tempered sole/midsole to the shoe with the upper free from the lining:
After the sole/midsole is on:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.