Shoe machines

[dw]

A roller foot--like a coin turned on edge--will allow a precise and close line of stitching to be laid in along an edge. No other setup is quite as effective in that regard. In fact, I don't believe I've ever seen any machine, set up for use in the making of shoes, that did not have the roller foot.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[j1a2g3]

I was wondering if it is possible to change a singer 31-15 with a walking foot to a roller foot. Anyone know if this is possible? Thanks Joel

[john_ralston]

I have a quick question on splitting exotics such as Shark and Elephant - can it be done on a bench splitter or do I need to get a Band Splitter?

Thanks,

John

[dw]

John,

I'm not an authority on this, but be very careful...the band splitter would be the surest way to go but both of these leathers are deeply textured and a very expensive purchase can be quickly turned to trash.

Also keep in mind that dry splitting a leather weakens it far more than if the leather were split to the very same thickness during the curing and tanning process.

Maybe someone who has a little more extensive set-up...with a band splitter...can comment more definitively.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[john_ralston]

Thanks DW - I have been doing it by hand with one of the "cheese slicer" safety skivers, but if I could take care of it with a bench splitter I would make the purchase. Even doing it by hand you get the occasional "Oops!"

A Band Splitter is way over my budget.

The weakness of the leather is of little concern to me, as I am making holsters, and the exotic will be bonded to 8 oz veg tanned before it is all finished.

I frequent here because I have found that Boot People are far more knowledgeable about using exotics (and where to find them) and old time tools than the holster makers are.

John

(Message edited by john ralston on February 10, 2007)

[tomo]

Joel,
the feed might need to be changed as well, some machines have a feed wheel underneath as well as a wheeled 'foot'. I believe this is prefered to a wheel machine with regular feed dogs because with the feed dogs, the feed isn't consistant, ie there's a gap when the feed dog drops down to travel back for the next stitch. With a wheel underneath the feed is constant.

John,
You can use a seriously sharp (and I mean SHARP!) metal frame spoke shave. Place the leather flesh side up on a piece of thick glass with part of the leather hanging over the edge of the bench. Lean against this over hang to trap the leather between you and the bench. Push the Spoke shave away from you working from the centre of the leather to furtherest away from you, then turn the leather around and do the next bit.
Also, just round the corners off the blade so that it won't dig in and cut the leather. It depends on the type of leather too, as you get different results from different leathers.

More power to y'awl.
Tom.

[j1a2g3]

Tom

Thanks for your response. Joel

[big_larry]

If I may, I would like to give a short update on my battle with the machines. First of all, a big thankyou to those folks who took a little time and gave me some much needed guidence and suggestions.

I have 3 236 singers which have belt driven roller feed. I totally agree with D.W. about the excellence of this type of set up. One machine was severely damaged en-rout. It is a parts machine now. I am still experiencing needle breakage every 2 or 3 hours of sewing on the one machine,

I purchased 2 95K40's singers that are not post. They have a roller on top that has no drive, it just rolls. The work is driven by the feed dog underneath. These machines are out of Canada and so far have sewen without the slightest glitch. I use them for flat work and fancy design.

I have 2 variable speed motors. One is the Morse servo sewingmachine motor and the other I will not mention. The Morse is a bit more expensive. If I purchase any more in the future, I will purchase the Morse. The other is clearly a lower level of usefullness. I am trying to stay within the rules so I will not describe the other brand. I love the Morse. It is powerful and the transition through the speed range is smooth and even.

I also have a 168 G singer post with a walking foot. It is dependable but the walking foot is not any where as good as the wheel drive 236 Singer Post machines for ease and accuracy.

I originally took the oil pan off to get at the timing gears until I read the manuel and discovered that a screw on top opened up enough space to loosen and retighten the screws on the timing gear from up top. I learned to use a magnetic pan to put tiny parts on and after tearing the post apart many times it has sslowly started to make sence. I found that when the needle bar has been replaced the timing marks may not exist.

Oh yes, one other note: even 50+ year old machines need to be re-trained to sew in a straight line and close to the edge without running off the edge.

I give a special thanks to those of you who so willingly share. It is a delema when you make your living teaching and producing to then train the compitition without a charge$. I appreciate all the help I have received here.

Your friend, Larry Peterson

[big_larry]

Friends,

A source for Singer 236 roller feed post mancines is Mac's Hardware. $150.00 each plus shipping. I have no connection with them and I do not gain from them.

I purchased several but do not strongly recommend them. The machines sew but have had many little problems.

Their web site is:www.macshardware.com/mplscontact.html

The telephone number is: 1-800-390-2865

My contact person was Randy.

Packing was not great, shipping to Utah from Min was about $50.00

I am presently budgeting for a brand new machine that will sew with out so many tweeking problems.

Good luck! Larry Peterson

[lancepryor]

I need to purchase a sewing table base and a top for a Pfaff 491; Pfaff's do not fit the standard Singer cut-out. If anyone has a good source for these, I would certainly appreciate the information.

Thanks in advance.

Lance

[romango]

I think Pilgrim makes them. I bought a rebuilt 491 from them but the table was obviously new and built to order. link

[dw]

Lance,

If you can find a used stand...just the stand...and pick it up for cheap enough, then the next step is to locate an old solid core door. These can be purchased reasonably at home construction salvage yards (one in every city).

Now you have the makin's...all you need is a drill and a reciprocating saw. What you'll end up with may cost half or less than buying new and you may end up liking it better both in terms of sheer functionality and in beauty--especially if the wood is not painted.

Just a thought, if all else fails...

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[bootmaker2]

I have a complete shopfor sale with: singer 31-15, adler 1217, singer 136w101, fenda
sole splitter, landis 750 w/numkeg,
landis 5in1, landis 400 w/ K head, lewiston bell skiver, ideal model C cliker
w/dies, adler patch 30-70, 2 landis brush sections (low&high speed), american
straight needle, landis K, vamp break, stitch divider w/3heads, pinking machine,
approx. 18 pair crimp boards, 6 pair crimp screws, rub down boards, top turner,
peg float, 2 last pullers (bench and wall mount), 2 lasting stands (1 sit down,
1 standing), over 500 pairs of lasts, supplies, leather, patterns, benches,
sharpening stand and lots of misc.
Interested?
www.lonesomeace.com

[jesselee]

Clay

Are the crimping boards full size and old? Also are the crimping screws old/
Thanks,
JesseLee

[amuckart]

Is this machine worth buying for someone only looking at getting into building modern shoes sometime in the future?

It's a landis model 15, which as far as I can tell from the picture has a skiver and a cutter, it looks to be in need of a cleanup, but if the reserve is within cooee of the opening bid I can afford to take a punt on it and it would actually be useful for cutting out outsoles for the 16th century shoes I'm working out how to make.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Crafts/Other/auction-103360980.htm?p=3

There's a Landis model 12 on there too, with an NZ$450 opening bid that I can't unfortunately afford to take a punt on :-)

[dw]

Alasdair,

It depends on what you have to apy for it...not much I hope. It is pretty crippled for shoe or bootmaking in my opinion. You'd be much better off with a good 5-in-1.

When I started making boots, I had an old Champion, long arm, 5-in-1. It gave me many years of service but eventually it broke at the base of the welt press. Since it was cast iron, it was difficult to weld. I hooked up with an independent dealer who sold me a replacement part salvaged from another machine. That worked for a while and then it broke too.

In frustration, I bought a used Landis, and sold the Champion as a leather cutter. But I've been sorry ever since...which is the point of my tale...because I can't cut deep enough into bends and shoulders to cut completely around a sole or insole. The Landis is a short arm machine and will only cut about ten inches deep. Only if I line my soles up end to end, along the edge of the bend, can I cut them out. And even then I have to resort to a very sharp lino knife to separate them.

The machine you are looking at, can't cut much deeper than three inches or so.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[amuckart]

DW,

Thanks for that insight. I'll give the machine a miss.

I saw a long-arm 5-in-1 on trademe about 2 years ago going real cheap but I had no idea what it was so I didn't jump on it and now I have no way of contacting the seller to see if they still have it [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/sad.gif"%20ALT="sad[/img]

[abcady]

Dear Boot/Shoe Makers,

Anthony Cady here - I teach shoemaking at FIT in NYC. I have a new crop coming in the Fall and we need several (6) lasting jacks of the USMC Lasting Stand variety. Anyone have a lead or jacks to sell?
Best, Anthony

[jenny_fleishman]

Anthony, not sure if this is what you're looking for, or if you are only looking for used equipment, but Euro International sells a cobbler stand:

http://www.eurointl.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1189&osCsid=9309f1a 4a40432af47c6626de3fb37d8

The salesperson I usually deal with is Candy, and she seems very knowledgable.

Jenny

[dw]

Aside from Ebay?? I think you may need to talk ti Dick anderson of Thornapple River Boots. He makes both sit down and stand up lasting/inseaming jacks. I have two of them and I like them very well.

Dick Anderson
Thornapple River Boots
N8566 Winter Rd.
Ladysmith, WI 54848
715-532-6301


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[djulan]

Hi Anthony,

Try Charlie Williams, he always had them, as well as other hand/ bench tools.

http://www.unitedglobalsupply.com/shoemaking/jacks.html

David Ulan

[abcady]

Thanks for the leads everyone - Global has the goods. Thanks Mr. Ulan - my comrade!
Anthony

[abcady]

Dear Cordwainers,

An old fellow (John Boetello) just closed up a shoe repair shop in Attleboro, MA. I just returned with the machinery but couldn't handle / didn't need 3 pieces; A Landis #12 Model L (EXTREMELY heavy and unwieldy); An Autosoler nibbler; and an Autosoler device that removes men's heels. His son, Bert, handles calls. The stuff is free, and dirty but works as of a week ago. My department paid for it, but you'll need to pick it up within the next 2 weeks. The old cobbler merely wants to have the machines go to a loving home and continue the tradition. Phone 508-642-2815 / Bert Boetello.

Another matter. How to adjust stitch length on a Singer 136W101 Post Machine ... Advice from the masters?

Best Anthony Cady / FIT

[tmattimore]

Anthony, See if there is a chrome button on the base of the machine near the main part of the head, if so turn the fly wheel over while depressing the button until it drops and locks. Hold the button down and continue to turn the fly wheel until you get the length you desire.
Tom

Opps!!! that is for a 151 series. I will have to check at the shop for the 136 tommorow.

(Message edited by tmattimore on July 11, 2007)

[dw]

Anthony,

I think I have onbe of those machines (not in the shop right this minute). Reach under the machine...under the table and feel up under the post. There may be a knurled knob that can be pushed in and out. You may have to jostle the hand wheel while doing this. The knurled knob will go to three setting--in all the way, all the way out, and in the center. Each of these setting is a different stitch length. When you feel the knob go to the position you want, turn it till it clicks.

This machine has gears, each gear representing a different stitch lenth. Three gears in all. If you want a stitch length that is not covered by one of these gears, you must purchase a different gear for that length and sacrifice one of the others.

Let us know which one of us had the right machine and how you made out.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC