Looking for...

[Nicholas brown]

Good evening all.

I am a repairer in the UK and have been wandering around this site for a while looking for some materials. I am attempting to obtain some mateials that have apparently vanished.

An Austrian (I am sure it is) heel known as a Diamond Heel.

I have a few left but no longer have a source.

Can any one else help, or even suggest a replacement as these are the best, most hard wearing heels I have ever come across.

Can be contacted on nicholas@brown6673.fsnet.co.uk

[frank_jones]

Nicholas Brown

First welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. It is nice to be able to say welcome to a fellow Brit.

I think you are looking for top-pieces (our American friends call them top lifts), the wearing layer at the bottom on a heel.

If I am right then the only Diamond Heel I have ever heard of is the Diamond Stud rubber heel that used to be made by the Goodyear Rubber Company. I think they went out of production in the 1970’s but some do turn up now and again in merchants warehouses.

Is that any help? If you wish to contact me direct, the UK number is under the signature below.

Frank Jones
frank.jones@shoemaking.com
01706 211181

[P Winthrop]

Looking for Skiver in good condition. Willing to pay fair price.

Thanks

Paul

[Jon Lorenz]

Good Afternoon,
I am new to Shoe & Boot Making, in fact I have never made a pair in my life. I am looking for a retail resource maybe a few, that I could pick up some of the neccessary materials such as shanks, cements... really the whole kit & kabootle. I have made most of the hand tools that I will need. I am at present carving my lasts, I will be done soon and ready to shop!
I would like to apologize for being a greenhorn and I will do my best to save questions as a last resort, since as I have read many of these posts I understand the professional pursuit found within.
Thank you very much for taking the time to read my question and hopefully provide me with some resources.
Jonathan Lorenz
jrlorenz@gmail.com

[dw]

Jon,

Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. We're slow to respond sometimes but in the end if it has an answer you'll find it here.

As far as finding the basic materials...I don't know where you live, but in general, just call your local shoe reapirman and ask him who his "finder" is. The finder--McPhereson's in Seattle, is one example--will be able to supply you with everything you need except, perhaps, quality leathers for upper and lining.

Don't hesitate to ask questions...as the old saw goes--"the only dumb question is the one that isn't asked." You won't always get an immediate answer but most of the time you will.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[Jon Lorenz]

Thank you very much 'Tight Stitches'! I have already gotten a few emails since my post and now your response, much appreciated! I will keep looking based on the advice given. I am taking a very slow approach, since I do not have a shoulder to peer over. I am checking books and experimenting with different constructions and stitches. Even making some of my own tools, but I think this first pair is going to end up taking a year but it has been alot of fun thus far.
Thank you again and also to those who have sent me emails!
Jon Lorenz

[lancepryor]

My search for tools and supplies seems to be a never-ending quest!

I am trying to find some punches/tools to make the broguing on mens' dress shoes (think the holes on a wingtip shoe, including the very small holes between the bigger holes). I really don't have any good idea where to find them, aside from Goetz, and my repeated inquiries to MacPherson Leather concerning the specifics have gone unanswered. So, if anyone has any other ideas, I would love to hear them.

Thanks,
Lance

[tomo]

Hi Lance,
Try Weaver Leather (www.weaverleather.com). They have some similar to what I think you want on page 222 of their catalogue.

More power to y'awl.
T.

[dw]

A student of mine gave me several punches that I think came from Italy. He was a very highly paid "line designer" (is that the correct term?) for a large shoe manufacturer and had a villa in Italy...traveled all over the world but mostly back and forth between Italy and New York.

Anyway the punches are smaller than anything I have seen in the US or any domestic catalogue (I don't have the newest Weaver catalogue)...so small that it takes an embroidery needle to clear the tube of the smallest and the next largest is not much bigger.

These are strike punches and as such you must have a great eye and be very precise to position them when using them with larger punches--such as on a perfed toe cap.

Goetz in Germany has a series of small (how small..??) punches that are mounted in some sort of frame that allows exact distance and spacing simultaneously. I've seen them in their catalogue but never had such a pressing need that I was prompted to purchase a set. If anyone here has a set of these I'd be interested in hearing about your experience with them.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[tommick]

I've used stainless steel hypodermic needle tubing for hole punches but never tried it in leather. You can get many sizes and wall thicknesses and it's basically disposable. Try a search for "hypodermic" at www.mcmaster.com.

[dw]

Wow!! That's a good idea! I'm gonna have to give that a try. Maybe make a wooden handle/insert to hold and hammer the "punch?"

Good one, Tom!

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[lancepryor]

DW:

I learned about the Goetz products while spending time with a 'maker' in London; he was learning to close and has some of the Goetz punches. I assume they work well, he didn't say anything to the contrary, although of course he is just learning. I don't know if the closers in the trade use the Goetz stuff, though the closer I observed had a similar type of double punch -- i.e. the larger hole and the smaller holes were on one punch, obviating the need for trying to perfectly space the latter.

As I indicated in my initial inquiry, the problem I have is that no one seems to be able to tell me what the story is with the Goetz products -- there are a couple of what seem to be similar punches in their catalog (e.g #797 130 00, 979 006, and 797 012) , and there is also an entire set of punches/attachments. I don't need a whole set of the things, but I don't know if the individual items can be ordered, or even what the prices are! MacPherson has failed to respond to 3 separate e-mails, even after I phoned and they said to send a new e-mail. It's a very frustrating experience to be sure.

I don't have the Weaver catalog, and as I don't have a resale # cannot order one.

I guess the hypodermic tubing might be worth a try, but I should think it would have to be mounted on something to allow it to be driven through the leather, which mounting I have no idea how to accomplish.

[bjohnsonleather]

DWFII, Thomas, et al,
Aaah, something in my wheelhouse.(I am a veterinarian in real life). I use hypodermic needles for a few leather related things. I use them to make pilot holes for the "pins" that hold buckle set tips in place. The nail tends to follow the needle track to the hole underneath for peening. I also use different sizes for punching small holes in watchbands or hatbands for those cheesy little wire buckle tongues. In the good old days, the needles were better quality steel and could be resharpened when the bevel got dull. Modern times and disposables led to cheaper steel and so I cut them transversely, and lightly bevel the outside by rotating them against a fine stone. They need to be rebeveled every so often. To punch, I leave them on a 3cc syringe barrel with the finger grips cut off. I chuck that into a pretty slow drill press, turn it on, and drill away. This usually what I do with my normal round drive punches as well. The "drilling" leaves a nice clean slick hole, and lifts right out of wet skirting layers. I don't hit one very often anymore. Might work for you guys too. - Bruce Johnson

[dw]

Bruce,

That's an interesting approach...especially the business of chucking it up in a drill press. But since you have more experience (and probably more occasion) than I with the hypo needle, let me ask...have you ever struck them? I don't think I want to drag my drill press out of storage for the very rare times I might want to punch a hole with the needle.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

(Message edited by dw on June 13, 2006)

[bjohnsonleather]

DWFII,
I actually punch most all of my holes with any drive punch with the drill press, if the piece will fit under it. I figure every hit I save on me now is one more left for raising a maul or rope in my future years. Regarding the hypodermic needles and striking them - yes, I have done it. The disposable needles (they all are now) are pretty thin walled and will tend to collapse easier than the old ones. I cut them off pretty close (1/4-3/8 inch) to the hub, use the metal hub needles vs plastic, with a fine sawblade. I rotate them against a fine stone to bevel them a bit. If I am going to strike them, I just put them on a regular 3cc plastic syringe barrel and a light tap with the smacker at hand does the job. I find I have to use 20 gauge needles or bigger. Anything smaller than 20 gauge (higher number) and the hole never stays open. The bigger needles like 18, 16, and 14 have a little heavier wall and keep the bevel better. I punch against a firm piece of skirting rather than plastic, keeps the bevel from rolling up as much. Bigger holes than that and I reach for a regular punch. These leave a nicer small hole for me than my tiny punches. The punches seem to leave a #2 hole on top and a #000 hole on the bottom side. -Bruce Johnson

[sharon_raymond]

A couple of thoughts - I use the small needle that comes with a stitching awl in a Dremel tool fastened to a drill press accessory to make small holes - of course the tiny bit of leather in the center isn't removed, simply pushed to the sides. And, I have a perforating machine with many combination dies with big holes and little holes - if something like that could be utilized by anyone, I'd be glad to part with some.

[dw]

Here's a question for Robert or Chris or anyone else making shoes on a regular basis...

I like to use a #2 or #3 enameled rolet eyelet on my little lace-ups. I have one of the German eyelet setters that Goetz used to sell. Unfortunately, the anvil that I have for this setter is not up to snuff--it breaks the enamel off the eyeelt...sometimes inside the eyelet, sometimes on the top surface.

I'm desperate...I tried getting one of the old shoe repair eyelet setters that used to be available (I had one but tossed it out when I got the German machine) but it appears that they no longer make them.

Anyone got any ideas or suggestions or have a machine they want to sell? I need it to set enameled #2's in particular.

thanks

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[relferink]

DW,

I'm not sure what eyelet setter you mean, Goetz has had many different types as far as I know. I have been having a hard time finding anvils the correct size for the eyelets. I suspect some difference in metric / imperial sizing but I'm not sure on that. Do you use the anvil with the spring loaded center that drops? I have seem some of these that are a little to wide and scratch the inside of the barrel, thus weakening the finish.
I have used some cotton cloth (drop cloth) to “padâ€

[dw]

Robert,

Yes, the anvil has the spring loaded center. I have a whole slew of anvils and most of them work fine. The main reason I purchased the machine was that it would set loggers hooks better than any other setter. Although I have quite a few anvils, the one closest to a #2 rolet is not correct. I don't know exactly what the problem is.

I have eyelets from PCI...older ones...that are enamel on brass and or nickle. They are good eyelets and the enamel is baked on. But the setter cracks it. I've used auto finish repair paint in the past but it is not baked on and although it is a fair cosmetic fix it is still not the "right" answer.

The old "shoe repair" setters were very similar to the old "Rex" riveter. they were small--about 5-6" tall and back. they set eyelets very well but couldn't handle the solid hooks.

Thanks for your input.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[headelf]

Hi DW
Georgene Mckim here
Try these links for eyelet setting machines
http://www.kingrichardco.com/snaps/machines.htm

http://fastener-supply.com/index/special.htm

[dw]

Hi Georgene!!

Thanks for the link. Earlier this morning I got another tip and contacted Shoe Systems Plus

They actually carry the same German setting machine that I have and can get dies made to spec (eyelets, in this case).

But the Fastener Supply press is pretty close to the old shoe repair press. Fancier and aq bit bigger. And very reasonably priced. If I strike out at Shoe Systems Plus, I am definately going to look into it. I wish they had a little more details about the available dies and such, on their web page, however.

Maybe I'll call them tomorrow.

Thanks again.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Membe

[siskiyou]

Hi,

While the subject is on eyelets... does anyone know where I could find a large selection of the type of decorative studs (?) shown on the shoes in these photos?

Thanks,
Terri

4303.jpg

4304.jpg

4305.jpg

[sharon_raymond]

Greetings, It looks like the oblong shape is a Heritage slide loop staple from Weaver leather. I bought a bunch for decorative purposes and have not used them, they are brass, I would sell them at reduced price if you are interested. Best wishes, Sharon

[lancepryor]

I've just acquired a Pfaff 491 Post-Bed sewing machine and would love to find a user manual or any other pertinent publications. If anyone has one they could photocopy, or any ideas where to order one, I would be grateful for the information.

Also, I am interested in buying some wooden pegs for pegging the heels of my shoes. Where is a good place to get them, and, as relevant, what size(s) do folks use?

Thanks,
Lance

[tomo]

Lance thanks for asking the question about the pegs, that's what I've wanted to know too.
They aren't available here in NZ and one supplier said that he told people wanting pegs (repairers usually) to use Kebab skewers and cut them to length with side-cutters...
I've just received a copy of the Charlie Dunn CD from Lee and Carrlyn Miller and Charlie said they use only Maple pegs but people talk about using Lemonwood pegs too.

Also Robert Elferink rebuilt a 491 without a manual so he might be able to help. Also I think it was Janne Melkersson who sent me the address of a firm in Denmark? But if you contact the US Pfaff agents they will help, or try Roland Naumann here at roland.naumann@pfaff-industrial.com

More Power to y'awl.
T.