Lance,
I'm not Jake and I'm not an expert on handsewing outsoles but I have done it--with a square awl and bristles...and over my knee.
First, 4 strands seems light to me. I used the equivalent of 8 strands of linen.
Second, the wax is important and the tackiness or lack thereof can be a factor.
Third, your method of wrapping may not be as secure as it could be. I have neve found that simply wrapping over a short section of itself and then doing a simple wrap to the end was worth the time especially in tricky situations. Maybe if you limit your usage to inseaming with a big hole it works fine but if the wraps are being pulled apart that's got to tell you something. I split my boars bristles (and my fishing line) and then wrap and counter wrap. It's much more secure...although I am sure someone will say that it's overkill. This "quasi-braiding" can also compensate for less than satisfactory wax, in some situations.
Fourth, be sure to beeswax your first 18 inches (including the wraps) to lubricate the taw end of your waxed ends. This can also be critical with outsoles.
Hope that helps...if not tell us exactly how you are doing it and someone, more expert than myself, will spot the problem I have no doubt.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Bristling at the very suggestion
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jake
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Hey Lance,
If you're using a "fine" square awl, you must use the split fishing line technique illustrated by D.W.
I bet your problem is getting your strands on the taw too far apart. I have had this problem to cause my thread to lock up or unravel. After the first strand, the next ones need only to be separated in length by 1/2".
If you use a good wax and D.W.'s method of wraping the taw, you'll make it just fine.
One more thing, remember me jerking the bristle quickly and firmly through the hole in my demonstration? Pull it quick!
Hope this helps Partner! Take care!
If you're using a "fine" square awl, you must use the split fishing line technique illustrated by D.W.
I bet your problem is getting your strands on the taw too far apart. I have had this problem to cause my thread to lock up or unravel. After the first strand, the next ones need only to be separated in length by 1/2".
If you use a good wax and D.W.'s method of wraping the taw, you'll make it just fine.
One more thing, remember me jerking the bristle quickly and firmly through the hole in my demonstration? Pull it quick!
Hope this helps Partner! Take care!
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lancepryor
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
DW and Jake:
Thanks for your responses. I have been using the split bristle method (for both monofilament and boar's bristle) as described by the two of you, and I have been using beeswax as a lubricant. I did some testing last night, and perhaps I was not putting the wraps of the taw close enough together -- in looking at your pictures, and in my experiments, I found that wrapping the taw at almost a 90 degree angle to the bristle seems to yield better results, vs. a more shallow angle/more parallel to the length of the bristle. I also had not been using sand paper to rough up the monofilament, so perhaps that helps (though I had tried using needle nose pliers to put some texture roughness into the bristle's legs).
I am sewing a "city" shoe; I have spent a few days with a maker in London who does work for the big UK custom shoe firms, and I think he uses 4 strands for the outsole, so that is what I decided to do as well. Whether it is sufficient I cannot say, though I will note that I broke the thread once by pulling too hard, so perhaps DW you are correct. On the other hand, given my problems with the bristle, I'm not sure I want to go to an even larger diameter thread, which of course would result from an increased number of strands.
A couple of follow up questions: DW, in your description of the technique, you say you wrap the start of the taw around one leg, then both, then one, then both, for say 1/4", before wrapping the balance around one leg and counter-wrapping the other leg. Do you still do this? If so, what is the purpose of wrapping both legs at the beginning of the process? [I have just been wrapping one leg, then using the other leg to counter-wrap.]
Jake: your pics show a white-ish hand wax. I am sewing a light brown shoe, and want a natural or light color to the thread, so can you let me know what the recipe for this wax is (or a source if you're not making it yourself)?
As always, your responses are greatly appreciated.
Lance
Thanks for your responses. I have been using the split bristle method (for both monofilament and boar's bristle) as described by the two of you, and I have been using beeswax as a lubricant. I did some testing last night, and perhaps I was not putting the wraps of the taw close enough together -- in looking at your pictures, and in my experiments, I found that wrapping the taw at almost a 90 degree angle to the bristle seems to yield better results, vs. a more shallow angle/more parallel to the length of the bristle. I also had not been using sand paper to rough up the monofilament, so perhaps that helps (though I had tried using needle nose pliers to put some texture roughness into the bristle's legs).
I am sewing a "city" shoe; I have spent a few days with a maker in London who does work for the big UK custom shoe firms, and I think he uses 4 strands for the outsole, so that is what I decided to do as well. Whether it is sufficient I cannot say, though I will note that I broke the thread once by pulling too hard, so perhaps DW you are correct. On the other hand, given my problems with the bristle, I'm not sure I want to go to an even larger diameter thread, which of course would result from an increased number of strands.
A couple of follow up questions: DW, in your description of the technique, you say you wrap the start of the taw around one leg, then both, then one, then both, for say 1/4", before wrapping the balance around one leg and counter-wrapping the other leg. Do you still do this? If so, what is the purpose of wrapping both legs at the beginning of the process? [I have just been wrapping one leg, then using the other leg to counter-wrap.]
Jake: your pics show a white-ish hand wax. I am sewing a light brown shoe, and want a natural or light color to the thread, so can you let me know what the recipe for this wax is (or a source if you're not making it yourself)?
As always, your responses are greatly appreciated.
Lance
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dw
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Lance,
I wrap both legs...alternating, as you correctly describe above...for two reasons: one, it keeps the legs from splitting further apart; and two, because I believe it keeps the taw from slipping.
I almost never, ever, have that part of the wraps slip. In fact, I often take apart used bristles to re-use and I often have a hard time getting that quarter inch or so of tight wraps to come apart, or move, or slide on the bristle...anything--I have to take it apart one wrap at a time.
But they must be wrapped tightly and closely and, as you suggest, at a 90* angle to the bristle. Not overlapping but right next to each other with no space at all between the wraps. When I go to wrapping just the one leg, I wrap the bristle rather than the taw and I spread the wraps out a little...then a little more, then a little more, etc., as I progress, so that by the time I am within an inch an a half of the end of the first leg, my wraps are maybe three-sixteenths of an inch apart.
Four strands might be alright with pre-war linen but these days I think you'll break a lot of them. But as I said I've hand stitched with a square awl and used the equivalent of 8 strand so my conclusion from that is, one, that the number of strands you use shouldn't make that big a difference if you wrap the bristle correctly and two, you may be using too small a square awl.
All I can say, is don't give up...it'll come.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
I wrap both legs...alternating, as you correctly describe above...for two reasons: one, it keeps the legs from splitting further apart; and two, because I believe it keeps the taw from slipping.
I almost never, ever, have that part of the wraps slip. In fact, I often take apart used bristles to re-use and I often have a hard time getting that quarter inch or so of tight wraps to come apart, or move, or slide on the bristle...anything--I have to take it apart one wrap at a time. But they must be wrapped tightly and closely and, as you suggest, at a 90* angle to the bristle. Not overlapping but right next to each other with no space at all between the wraps. When I go to wrapping just the one leg, I wrap the bristle rather than the taw and I spread the wraps out a little...then a little more, then a little more, etc., as I progress, so that by the time I am within an inch an a half of the end of the first leg, my wraps are maybe three-sixteenths of an inch apart.
Four strands might be alright with pre-war linen but these days I think you'll break a lot of them. But as I said I've hand stitched with a square awl and used the equivalent of 8 strand so my conclusion from that is, one, that the number of strands you use shouldn't make that big a difference if you wrap the bristle correctly and two, you may be using too small a square awl.
All I can say, is don't give up...it'll come.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
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jake
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Lance,
Here's the link to the formula we posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2004: http://www.thehcc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1317
Here's the link to the formula we posted on Tuesday, February 24, 2004: http://www.thehcc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1317
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jake
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
OOPS! I'll have to delete that post Dee-Dubb!
I weighed all ingredients with digital scales. So this is exact:
8 parts pine rock rosin
2 parts anhydrous lanolin superfine
1 part beeswax
Melt rosin first.
Add lanolin and beeswax.
Bring to a boil to clarify.
Pour into cold water.
Taffy pull.
The wax I'm holding in my hand is pretty darn good, in my humble opinion. And for those who might want to use colored thread, it won't mask the original color.
Lance, go to our dicussion under "Handwax/Coade"
Hope this helps!
I weighed all ingredients with digital scales. So this is exact:
8 parts pine rock rosin
2 parts anhydrous lanolin superfine
1 part beeswax
Melt rosin first.
Add lanolin and beeswax.
Bring to a boil to clarify.
Pour into cold water.
Taffy pull.
The wax I'm holding in my hand is pretty darn good, in my humble opinion. And for those who might want to use colored thread, it won't mask the original color.
Lance, go to our dicussion under "Handwax/Coade"
Hope this helps!
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amuckart
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
I've cooked up some wax and got some nylon line and had my first shot at using tapered ends to build turned shoes. It wasn't real successful but I guess that's something that comes with practice.
One thing that struck me though is that the threads I see pictures of here seem to be much thicker than I'm used to using. If I build a thread from more than about 6 strands of linen I don't have an awl big enough to get two thicknesses into the hole and if I used a much bigger awl I'd just blow out the hold of the stitch.
Am I missing something here, are the threads people use smaller than they sound/look from the descriptions, do I just need to get a bigger awl, or am I missing something in the terminology of strands/threads etc?
Thanks.
--
Al.
One thing that struck me though is that the threads I see pictures of here seem to be much thicker than I'm used to using. If I build a thread from more than about 6 strands of linen I don't have an awl big enough to get two thicknesses into the hole and if I used a much bigger awl I'd just blow out the hold of the stitch.
Am I missing something here, are the threads people use smaller than they sound/look from the descriptions, do I just need to get a bigger awl, or am I missing something in the terminology of strands/threads etc?
Thanks.
--
Al.
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tomo
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Al,
are you using a blade awl or a round awl?
More power to y'awl
are you using a blade awl or a round awl?
More power to y'awl
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das
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Tom,
================
"are you using a blade awl or a round awl?"
==================
For which seams? For hand-stabbing uppers: round blade; for whipping, hand round- or flat-closing and oval section blade; for inseaming and sewing the heel, oval, etc., etc.
================
"are you using a blade awl or a round awl?"
==================
For which seams? For hand-stabbing uppers: round blade; for whipping, hand round- or flat-closing and oval section blade; for inseaming and sewing the heel, oval, etc., etc.
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dw
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Alasdair,
What is the source of your thread/yarn? You need to describe it or provide a brand name or a photo.
That said, some linen yarns will be heavier than others--these are single strand yarns, mind you--and you would have to adjust the final thickness of your waxed thread accordingly.
Of course the application and the awl weight will be determining factors too--inseaming requires a heavier thread than closing, for instance and accordingly, inseaming wants a heavier awl and, perhaps even a different shaped awl, than closing, as well.
Of course if you want to talk about closing or even about the nuances of making waxed ends, Al Saguto probably is the man to talk to, as he makes threads for a number of different applications--and does it for a living....poor soul.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
What is the source of your thread/yarn? You need to describe it or provide a brand name or a photo.
That said, some linen yarns will be heavier than others--these are single strand yarns, mind you--and you would have to adjust the final thickness of your waxed thread accordingly.
Of course the application and the awl weight will be determining factors too--inseaming requires a heavier thread than closing, for instance and accordingly, inseaming wants a heavier awl and, perhaps even a different shaped awl, than closing, as well.
Of course if you want to talk about closing or even about the nuances of making waxed ends, Al Saguto probably is the man to talk to, as he makes threads for a number of different applications--and does it for a living....poor soul.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
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tomo
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Al(S), Alasdair
No good point Al (OK, that was a pun
). I assumed Alasdair you were inseaming and was thinking that if you were using a blade awl (which is easier to get here) at the wrong angle or a big old round one, that might be the reason your stitches are tearing through.
Where in NZ are you Alisdair? (You can email me privately if you prefer).
More power to y'awl.
T.
No good point Al (OK, that was a pun
). I assumed Alasdair you were inseaming and was thinking that if you were using a blade awl (which is easier to get here) at the wrong angle or a big old round one, that might be the reason your stitches are tearing through. Where in NZ are you Alisdair? (You can email me privately if you prefer).
More power to y'awl.
T.
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amuckart
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Hi DW
I've got 3 different sorts of linen on hand at the moment, 2 of which I was given and one of which came from ebay.
The stuff I was playing with yesterday was on a spool. I don't know how to inline pictures in posts on this board but pictures of it are at the following URLs
http://www.else.net.nz/SCA/shoes/images/SpoolLabel1.jpg
http://www.else.net.nz/SCA/shoes/images/SpoolLabel2.jpg
http://www.else.net.nz/SCA/shoes/images/splitthread.jpg
I've got a ball of thread on the go as well that is about the same thickness as the thread on the spool, but doesn't unwind into strands cleanly.
The spool label says that the thread is "3 cord", does that mean that 4 of these would make a 12 cord thread?
The wax I'm using is a roughly 60/40 mix of rosin and beeswax with about 1tsp of olive oil added. It's nice and tacky and seems to lock up well in the stitches without flaking off the thread.
The awl I'm using is roughly 3mm 1/8in wide x 1.5mm 1/16in thick at it's widest point.
Tom, I'm in Christchurch.
I've got 3 different sorts of linen on hand at the moment, 2 of which I was given and one of which came from ebay.
The stuff I was playing with yesterday was on a spool. I don't know how to inline pictures in posts on this board but pictures of it are at the following URLs
http://www.else.net.nz/SCA/shoes/images/SpoolLabel1.jpg
http://www.else.net.nz/SCA/shoes/images/SpoolLabel2.jpg
http://www.else.net.nz/SCA/shoes/images/splitthread.jpg
I've got a ball of thread on the go as well that is about the same thickness as the thread on the spool, but doesn't unwind into strands cleanly.
The spool label says that the thread is "3 cord", does that mean that 4 of these would make a 12 cord thread?
The wax I'm using is a roughly 60/40 mix of rosin and beeswax with about 1tsp of olive oil added. It's nice and tacky and seems to lock up well in the stitches without flaking off the thread.
The awl I'm using is roughly 3mm 1/8in wide x 1.5mm 1/16in thick at it's widest point.
Tom, I'm in Christchurch.
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dw
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Alasdair,
Well, theoretically, yes. But depending on the originally intended use and the manufacturer's druthers, each individual strand may be larger than the yarn that was indicated in the old books. I think that was a #10 yarn (the memory is the first thing to go--someone will correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure...I hope) and I've seen it spun even finer.
That said, for inseaming...which requires a pretty stout thread especially for men's work...I never used more than ten strands and sometimes only nine (for luck and because there is a theory that an uneven number will stay in a round configuration). Nowadays I use a dacron thread that is equivalent to a ten cord linen but, if I recall correctly, only has seven strands.
Don't sweat it too much. You want the thread (two threads, actually--one from each direction) to fill up the hole you make with the awl (choose your awl carefully)...snugly and with no gaps, it's true...and you want it to be stout enough for the application it's being used for. In other words, three cord or even six is probably too light for men's work inseaming.
And if you're inseaming you might want to look into a curved awl.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
The spool label says that the thread is "3 cord", does that mean that 4 of these would make a 12 cord thread?
Well, theoretically, yes. But depending on the originally intended use and the manufacturer's druthers, each individual strand may be larger than the yarn that was indicated in the old books. I think that was a #10 yarn (the memory is the first thing to go--someone will correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure...I hope) and I've seen it spun even finer.
That said, for inseaming...which requires a pretty stout thread especially for men's work...I never used more than ten strands and sometimes only nine (for luck and because there is a theory that an uneven number will stay in a round configuration). Nowadays I use a dacron thread that is equivalent to a ten cord linen but, if I recall correctly, only has seven strands.
Don't sweat it too much. You want the thread (two threads, actually--one from each direction) to fill up the hole you make with the awl (choose your awl carefully)...snugly and with no gaps, it's true...and you want it to be stout enough for the application it's being used for. In other words, three cord or even six is probably too light for men's work inseaming.
And if you're inseaming you might want to look into a curved awl.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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daidafad
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Alasdair, I can provide you with a curved awl and show you how I make threads up, learnt from this forum and elsewhere. Look for me in the chch phone book, 327etc. Tom, come down and have a wedge of Southern Dog Roll and some selenium pills with us :><IMG SRC=$html_url/clipart/wink.gif"
David Kilgour
David Kilgour
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tomo
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
David, glad you tuned in,
as for the Dog roll, I'll flag it man, and the selenium, well that never did work last time I tried, I think the mountain oysters neutrilized it. Although the chest hairs've got a bit greyer and I can't touch my toes first thing in the morning so maybe there's a need now.
Alasdair, I was going to see if I could get you in touch with David, he's made the wax before with good results, he's pretty knowledgeable and in your town. I'd say definately give him a call.
More power to y'awl.
T.
as for the Dog roll, I'll flag it man, and the selenium, well that never did work last time I tried, I think the mountain oysters neutrilized it. Although the chest hairs've got a bit greyer and I can't touch my toes first thing in the morning so maybe there's a need now.
Alasdair, I was going to see if I could get you in touch with David, he's made the wax before with good results, he's pretty knowledgeable and in your town. I'd say definately give him a call.
More power to y'awl.
T.
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dw
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Alasdair,
By all means take up David on his offer...nothing better than to meet and share and learn.
But I wanted to add one additional observation...I don't think you will get as good a result or as small a diameter thread if you combine three of those three cord threads. I think you need to unravel and make up your thread from nine **individual** strands. They'll twist up tighter and bond together, with the wax helping, better too.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
By all means take up David on his offer...nothing better than to meet and share and learn.
But I wanted to add one additional observation...I don't think you will get as good a result or as small a diameter thread if you combine three of those three cord threads. I think you need to unravel and make up your thread from nine **individual** strands. They'll twist up tighter and bond together, with the wax helping, better too.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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amuckart
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
DW,
That makes sense. I'm working on learning how to build reproduction medieval footwear rather than modern shoes at the moment, hence the linen rather than dacron. Modern shoes will come when I've got the space, tools, and have wrapped my head around making lasts.
Truth to tell I haven't worked out what weight of thread to use for the lasting seam yet (Marc ?) but it seems reasonable that it would be a similar sort of weight to what is used for inseaming.
I was trying it with three strands of that linen waxed and rolled up together, but without disassembling each one first. I'll give that a shot and see how I go. The place I was running into the most problems wasn't so much in getting the threads to fill the hole as having 1 thread and 1 thread + bristle assembly fit through the hole.
Thanks.
--
ADM
That said, for inseaming...which requires a pretty stout thread especially for men's work...I never used more than ten strands and sometimes only nine (for luck and because there is a theory that an uneven number will stay in a round configuration). Nowadays I use a dacron thread that is equivalent to a ten cord linen but, if I recall correctly, only has seven strands.
That makes sense. I'm working on learning how to build reproduction medieval footwear rather than modern shoes at the moment, hence the linen rather than dacron. Modern shoes will come when I've got the space, tools, and have wrapped my head around making lasts.
Truth to tell I haven't worked out what weight of thread to use for the lasting seam yet (Marc ?) but it seems reasonable that it would be a similar sort of weight to what is used for inseaming.
Don't sweat it too much. You want the thread (two threads, actually--one from each direction) to fill up the hole you make with the awl (choose your awl carefully)...snugly and with no gaps, it's true...and you want it to be stout enough for the application it's being used for. In other words, three cord or even six is probably too light for men's work inseaming.
I was trying it with three strands of that linen waxed and rolled up together, but without disassembling each one first. I'll give that a shot and see how I go. The place I was running into the most problems wasn't so much in getting the threads to fill the hole as having 1 thread and 1 thread + bristle assembly fit through the hole.
Thanks.
--
ADM
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amuckart
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
David,
Many thanks, I'll get in touch in the next couple of days. It'll be good to see some of these techniques in action rather than just words.
Many thanks, I'll get in touch in the next couple of days. It'll be good to see some of these techniques in action rather than just words.
-
firefly
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
____________________________________________________
By DWFII on Thursday, June 03, 1999 - 05:24 am: Edit Post
If everyone who is registered for this forum (and presumably reading the posts) were to ask a question or answer a question, or pose a problem, or just comment on some aspect of the Trade, ONCE week...just once a week...this forum would rock! But there's a lot of lurkers out there--shy folks or perhaps just folks unaccustomed to public speaking. There's a lot of knowledge hidden under bushel baskets. ;^P or maybe :-(
____________________________________________________
Hello All,
Just perusing some old posts and found this one. So here is my weekly contribution of catalyst to discussion:
I will be stitching my side seams by hand. This is not necessarily because of any historic authenticity or even purist satisfaction but purely BECAUSE I DON"T HAVE A MACHINE. So with that off my chest...
If anyone out there would be willing to share some instructional techniques about hand-stitching side seams I would be most appreciative.
What type and size of bristles, thread, wax... Do you use a stitching pony. What type and size awls.
In general I've never done it before and if anyone is really bored with life and wants to give the text book rendition, well, I'm listening.
Thanks,
Mark
By DWFII on Thursday, June 03, 1999 - 05:24 am: Edit Post
If everyone who is registered for this forum (and presumably reading the posts) were to ask a question or answer a question, or pose a problem, or just comment on some aspect of the Trade, ONCE week...just once a week...this forum would rock! But there's a lot of lurkers out there--shy folks or perhaps just folks unaccustomed to public speaking. There's a lot of knowledge hidden under bushel baskets. ;^P or maybe :-(
____________________________________________________
Hello All,
Just perusing some old posts and found this one. So here is my weekly contribution of catalyst to discussion:
I will be stitching my side seams by hand. This is not necessarily because of any historic authenticity or even purist satisfaction but purely BECAUSE I DON"T HAVE A MACHINE. So with that off my chest...
If anyone out there would be willing to share some instructional techniques about hand-stitching side seams I would be most appreciative.
What type and size of bristles, thread, wax... Do you use a stitching pony. What type and size awls.
In general I've never done it before and if anyone is really bored with life and wants to give the text book rendition, well, I'm listening.
Thanks,
Mark
-
dw
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Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Mark,
Jake Dobbins is "da man" when it comes to stitching sideseams by hand...and living to tell about it. [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/proud.gif"%20ALT=":O[/img] But he's awfully busy scraping incisors and canines here lately so if he don't take a run at this in the next day or so...I'll venture forth with what little I know.
Of course, if anyone else wants to make a little "donation" that would also be welcome...saves me from having to expose my ignorance.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Jake Dobbins is "da man" when it comes to stitching sideseams by hand...and living to tell about it. [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/proud.gif"%20ALT=":O[/img] But he's awfully busy scraping incisors and canines here lately so if he don't take a run at this in the next day or so...I'll venture forth with what little I know.
Of course, if anyone else wants to make a little "donation" that would also be welcome...saves me from having to expose my ignorance.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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firefly
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Thanks DW,
Just thought I would stir up a little verbal bad mitten about boot makin'.
It is Monday and I would hate to see everyone sleep throught the week...
Mark
Just thought I would stir up a little verbal bad mitten about boot makin'.
It is Monday and I would hate to see everyone sleep throught the week...
Mark
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chuck_deats
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Mark,
Step one is get a copy of DW's Book. Yes, it is for machine sewing, but the technique for aligning the counter cover and vamps is worth the price of admission. If no one else speaks up I will put down a few things I have learned as a novice.
Chuck
Step one is get a copy of DW's Book. Yes, it is for machine sewing, but the technique for aligning the counter cover and vamps is worth the price of admission. If no one else speaks up I will put down a few things I have learned as a novice.
Chuck
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firefly
Re: Bristling at the very suggestion
Hey Chuck,
For me and boot making DW's book is like American Express...I wouldn't leave home without it. That's actually a whole other conversation for me. I noticed from some of your earlier posts that your background is not in boot and shoe making and you have picked up the sport using DW's book. This is similar to my path and I sure would appreciate the opportunity to share some of your experiences with you.
Mark
For me and boot making DW's book is like American Express...I wouldn't leave home without it. That's actually a whole other conversation for me. I noticed from some of your earlier posts that your background is not in boot and shoe making and you have picked up the sport using DW's book. This is similar to my path and I sure would appreciate the opportunity to share some of your experiences with you.
Mark