sewing machines

[jpboots]

Jim:
Try using pre-wound bobbins.I remove about 3 feet and then lod it.

JP

[jpboots]

Jim:
Try using pre-wound bobbins.I remove about 3 feet and then load it.

JP

[bob]

i have a 29-4 singer and was wondering if anyone could tell me a what the part number is for the pressure foot spring looks like a long flat piece of steel it was missing when i got the machine and the piece that is attached to it any help would be great

[Chuck Deats]

bob,
According to my stuff, The spring is p/n 8627. p/n 8625 pad is attached to the spring. The spring appears to be 5/32" spring steel. It could be made from O-1 ground stock, if you can use a hacksaw and file and do a little heat treating. The pad would be a little harder to make. Will send dimensions for the spring if you can't find one. Let me know if you find a source of parts for a 29-4.

Chuck

[bob]

thanks chuck ill let you know if i find anything still in the prosess of looking

[bob]

chuck could u send dimensions for spring and pad i could not find any parts for the 29-4 except for bobbins and shuttle wich i realy didnt need but i got anyway

[Chuck Deats]

Bob,
Been out of town for a few days. I will send dimensioned sketches of the spring and pad if you will E-Mail me a mailing address. I don't know how to put sketches on the forum and not sure many would be interested anyway.

chasdeats@yahoo.com

Chuck

[halfpint23]

Bob, if you are still having trouble finding 29-4 parts, it might be worth your while to check with Bob Kovar, sewmun@aol.com. He's always given me a fair shake, and is quite knowledgable.

Kate
Kate's Custom Gunleather
Monroe, WA USA

[bob]

thanks kate if i cant find anything ill give him a buzz
does he have that kind of stuff laying around ?

bob

[Sean]

Does anyone know where to find a service manual for a singer 51w55 or any information on setting the timing and making adjustments?

[dw]

Sean,

Try this...

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/51W51_W52_W53.pdf

Not the W55 but a slightly earlier model--the W53. I had a 51W55 myself and the manual looks exactly like the manual I had.

Hope it helps...

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[Sean]

DW,

I have that manual. I found an outdated link to a service manual for the 51w55 and was hoping it had some pictures showing the adjustments. When I got my machine it had years worth of lint and oil, so I disassemble the post and cleaned it. Now I have to try to get it working right again.

[meaculpa]

Hi, ladies and gents,

I'm an aspiring belt/shoemaker in my early 20s and I was wondering if I could solicit some advice from you all concerning sewing machines. I need to make a proper seam on the edges of a belt, and was wondering if there was anything out there that you were familiar with. I've used Keyword Search to see if there were any topics concerning belts specifically but could not find anything.

Suppose I wanted to make something like this stitching on these Crookhorn belts:

http://www.crookhorn.com/images/Crookhorn/The%20Belt%20Collection/11002_big.jpg
http://www.crookhorn.com/images/Crookhorn/The%20Belt%20Collection/11200_big.jpg
http://www.crookhorn.com/images/Crookhorn/The%20Belt%20Collection/91001_big.jpg

What kind of machine should I use? I suppose I should be using a roller foot, right? Are there any brands/models that you would suggest? Or any specific way that you would advise I go about this?

Thank you kindly,

Dimitri

[tomo]

Good morning Dimitri,

most large scale belt makers use automatic sewing machines, where the belt blanks are held in a magazine and fed into position, then the machine sews around the belt. They sew 100's of belts a day.
You can get the same finish by using a machine with a walking foot - those belts (in the picture) are feather edged and have a filler in them to raise the face, this filler is usually a synthetic foam, and the back of belts like those pictured normally have synthetic leather backs too.

As for a machine, there is such a big range, Singer, Juki, Adler, Pfaff, Brother, Mitsubishi... It just needs to be able to handle about a metric 30 or 40 weight thread and say 120 - 140 size neeedles, and you'll also need a machine with a stitch guide fitted (this is a little roller guide that keeps the stitching the right distance from the edge of the belt).

See if you can talk to a machine supplier or machine mechanic near where you live, who may know of a second hand machine for sale.

More power to y'awl.
T.

[Tom Buchanan]

hi folks,my name is Tom Buchanan,i'm with the knifemaking crowd.i have an old singer 29K.it works fine since i bought a new bobbin holder.really need to know what the heaviest thread and needle size i can use.all those different numbers confuse me.seems like some mean the same,and others are different.appreciate any help.be well

[dw]

Tom,

This is not a machine that will do "saddle" type stitching. It was originally meant for canvas repair, shoe repair, etc..

As for the numbers on needles and thread... well, don't worry. I don't think anyone can tell you, technically and in detail, what diameter a size 16 needle is or what diameter size 69 thread is. The main thing is to contact someone selling industrial needles--any company selling shoe findings should have needles for the 29K class. I assume you'd like to stitch as heavy a thread on your leather as possible...with the aim of coming close to the look of a "saddle stitch."

You could, at this point, ask the folks at the shoe finding place to give you the largest thread and the largest needle that the 29k can handle. They will probably carry thread to match the needles. Or, down to a local upholsterer or upholstery fabric shop and ask to see thread. Buy the thread size you want. If a needle will slide, of its own weight, from one end of a piece of thread to the other end, the thread and needle will work.

If it helps, you can download a manual for this machine, at:

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/

Hope this helps...


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[Tom Buchanan]

thanks for answering,DW.will do as you advised.I do saddle stitch all my sheaths,just wanted to try something different.guess a lockstitch would be ok for inlay sheaths.thanks again...i knew this was where the pros hang out.may have some questions later on timing this old girl(made in 1927).God Bless

[das]

Tom,

I've have one short-arm 29k set up for heavy finish work, and the heaviest set-up mine will do reliably is a #23 twist-point "leather needle" [the largest Pilgrim sells I recall], and a 3/26 linen machine twist thread [try Windmill English Saddlery in OH]. If I'm lucky, and fiddle-fart with it, I can get it to feed 3/18 linen for short runs, but not consistently. I use 100% neatsfoot oil in the oil cup on top as thread lube. Be sure the top thread retaining wire is on the cup and working positively to hold the thread submerged at the bottom of the cup, and stick a thick little felt pad up there [lashes on through those two little holes near the front lip] to wipe the excess oil off the thread, or you'll get oil all over the place. Cut a disk of soft splits leather, and install it under the spool of thread like a washer. This puts a little drag on the spool of thread so it won't deploy thread in jerks, throwing off loose thread. This can snarl-up, mis-feed, and it affects your top tension. It's more important w/ linen or cotton threads than nylon.

There are so many variables with the 29k class to getting any of them to do neat reliable finish work. Loose and worn parts must be replaced, and the machine as mechanically tight as possible. When running right, even with heavy threads and tensions, a good 29k should run pretty quiet. If it goes "rackety-clack, ker-snap, rackety-clack, ker-snap" at each stitch cycle, something's out of whack, worn, or too loose. So many of the old cobblers never oiled them, or cared for them, that most are loose as a goose. The little cam roller at the flywheel end of the driving bar needs to fit snug in the cam. The piston joint at the top of the needle bar needs to be tight. Just grab the needle clamp and push the needle bar up and down--if there's looseness you'll see it and where it is right away. The rack and pinion that controls the shuttle carrier needs to be tight and positive. Test this by removing the shuttle/bobbin, and with your finger try to wiggle the carrier in several positions. If there's too much play--a little is okay--it effectively varies the timing of the hook on the shuttle randomly, and causes skipped stitches. Play at any of these three locations will cause endless "mystery" problems. Main thing to look out for are grooves worn in any of the threadway components--inspect them all. Nylon thread cuts into soft steel over the years, and even some tempered steel parts. These must all be smooth, de-burred, and mirror-polished before it will stitch reliably with linen. And you gotta stitch "wet", that is with oil in the cup. It's messy, but it's what I've found that works. In most work the traces of neatsfoot that remains on the thread draws off into the leather and doesn't leave any stains.

The 29ks don't like change either. Get one set up to do heavy work and leave it that way, don't be trying to readjust the tensions and everything to do fine light work *and* heavy work.

I don't think the 29k is ideal for knife sheaths, unless your sheath leather is unusually soft and buttery. Mine gets cranky if I try to feed anything thicker/harsher than two layers of 6-7oz. veg. tanned leather through it. And it won't walk up or down thickness very well, say stitching from two layers to three, than back down to two.

Have fun.

[halfpint23]

Mr. Saguto, that is by far the best discourse on the 29 class stitcher I have ever seen. The amazing thing is that it's all in one place! I have seen your several points made over the years, but never as concisely brought together. GOOD job.

I've been running a prelube dacron in size 69 through a 19 needle, wedge point. I've never tried the oil pot, should get it mounted and see if running a lube improves anything. My machine is slightly loose all over, but still seems to be staying in time - I will go through it now with your advice in hand, and see what I think of it now!

Thank you.

Kate
Kate's Custom Gunleather
www.IrishHuntersandJumpers.com
SUltan, WA USA

[halfpint23]

On the subject of stitchers - I will be getting a Singer 42-5 machine, and am wondering if anyone has experience with this type? It's made for leather/heavy canvas work, has alternating pressers and is a big brute for a flatbed machine.

Any info would be appreciated!
Kate
Kate's Custom Gunleather
www.IrishHuntersandJumpers.com

[dw]

Kate,

I'm sure Al will jump in and correct me if he thinks I'm wrong but my experience over several decades with this class of machine is that with synthetic threads you simply don't need either the lube or the lube pot. I'm not even sure you need the leather "friction" washer under the spool (I've never used it)...although it can't hurt a bit.

Al's the only one I know still running linen thread through his machine. But that's what he does.

Just another $.02


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[dw]

Ed shirley...

From last August you were asking about the 51 clas machines..

Check out http://www.bootmaker.com/manuals.htm

There's several 51 class manuals posted for your reading pleasure.



Tight Stitches
DWII--Member HCC

[das]

Kate,

I'm blushing. Thanks for the kind comments. Being a Luddite [AKA hand-sewer] for most of my career, the 29k patcher was the first--and I assumed the last machine--I ever owned *hahahaha*. Boy was that naive, as I'm up to my armpits in machines these days. Anyway, I've had patchers for 20+ of my 31 years at this, far longer than anyother machine. If find them easier to learn on because they don't tent to run away with you like the motorized units and factory machines. I even bought, restored, and resold them through the now defunct Taube Distributors in Washington, DC years back.

I ran a low-mileage Adler patcher from maybe the 1980s for a few years, but was not happy with it and sold it last year. The feeder-foot tension spring was the older long leaf-spring design from the 29-4, which was brutal and hard to fine-tune. The bobbin was only the small size too, which means you're rewinding it constantly. 29ks came in short and long arm models, either with the large bobbin, or small. For some hard-to-reach repairs, the small bobbin models are good, because the end of the arm is narrower. But, if you're using it for finish work, the larger bobbin models work fine for most applications, and setting up the bobbin tension is more sure.

If you are creative, or hunt, you can turn up the folding wooden work table that converts them into flat bed configuration; a bolt-on steel thread shelf that holds a dozen spools of threads; as well as the work lamp that replaced the rear opening cover plate. There were a host of various feeder-feet, and it's easy to convert them by filing and grinding to get just the shape you want, with more or less aggressive teeth. I've even seen guys grind the feet smooth, and cement on a rubber surface, like a piece of textured Topy to keep from marking-up the leather, crank up the downward feeder-foot, and they feed just fine. Parts aren't hard to find, nor are old machines to cannibalize.

With proper care and set-up, a Singer 29k class machine will do wonderful finish work, and go more places than a post-bed or cylinder arm. Back when Jim Bowman was still making splendid English-style riding boots, not just lasts, I showed him a pair I did, closing the entire upper on just one 29k with linen thread. His jaw dropped--"You did THAT on a patcher?" he exclaimed. The 29k, and its predecessor the less reliable/less-restorable 29-4 class machines, were *designed* to do finished work, namely sewing in the elastic gores in the sides of "Congress Gaiters" or "Gaiters" [UK: "Spring Side" or "Chelsea" boots]. I've been told many European shoemakers only had treadle patchers for all their uppers closing well into the 20thc.--not everywhere was on electricity you see. One of the old West End trade-closers still has a 29k in his line-up.

And, as DW's said, with nylon thread there's no need for lube. Linen and cotton have more surface friction and drag feeding through, and are apt to throw off tons of lint unless you stitch "wet", only then the oil cup becomes important. Using 100% neatsfoot was a trick Carl Lichte showed me--he used it in his American straight needle. Neatsfoot won't hurt the metal--it's not corrosive like some water-based products. It's worked so well I've never had the inclination to try other lubes, like Solari's. And in keeping with using good old fashioned linen thread, the idea of good old neatsfoot has more appeal than modern mysterious goo.

I guess if the world was coming to an end, the only machine I'd grab would be a tight 29k

[halfpint23]

Ummm... Luddite? I hadn't thought I was one, but since so much of my stuff must be hand sewn.... whatever!

For the little I do on it, the old 29-4 has been a reasonable answer - and in a couple of cases has saved my bacon, as there's no way I could have done the work other than hand sewing "blind", which I do not enjoy.

I've heard from many that the 29k with larger bobbin capacity was the way to go - but what the heck, the old girl's paid for, and paid for herself, many times over. She will probably be hanging around here for some time to come - unless I can trade her off on a 29K.

I do not particularly enjoy the powered stitchers, either, so being able to treadle along at my own rate is a blessing. Would that MISTER Landis was that easy to operate! That bad boy (an early Landis #1 on his original treadle stand) recently overwhelmed a grown man who came to try him out, with delusions of grandeur (a prospective buyer). I demonstrated the required technique to start the machine and treadle along, perched on the precarious bicycle stool, then let him have a turn. He gave it three tries and bailed out, declaring that the machine was "more man than I am".

............I haven't quite decided what that makes ME! and MISTER Landis is still looking for a new and manly owner. OR maybe a good woman? Another female leatherworker recently purchased a very nice Pearson stitcher. Miss Pearson and MISTER Landis seem to be getting on nicely!

Thanks once again for the good info!
Kate
Kate's Custom Gunleather
www.IrishHuntersandJumpers.com

[Ruth England]

Hi there, Ruth here in England
I have an old Singer 29K leather sewing machine, with upper feed.
Could I ask, does anyone know what the 'notched threading wire' looks like ? Mine was missing when I purchased the machine. It's used to pass the thread through the central needle bar.
If I know what its sposed to look like maybe I can make one from an old guitar string or something?
Thanks, Ruth