Looking for...

[dw]

Erick,

Thanks for the info on Woodwares. I wish I had an old pair I could part with...maybe one that had lost a handle or the teeth were bad. Should be a Barnsley or an old Christianson, though...we don't need another outfit producing the, IMO, inferior USM style.

As for nthe Goettz catalog...worse comes to worse you can always go disrect:

Gotz Gmbh & Co.
Heinrich Landerer Strasse
Posfach 445
7320 Goppingen
Germany

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
http://www.bootmaker.com

"Little Jack Dandiprat, in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives the shorter he grows."

[tmattimore]

Eric
I have one in very good condition but have always felt that the angle of the spoon is wrong, my favorite is my Boudreau as it seems to have the best leverage of all the ones I have tried. If he is willing to replace it I would let him have my Barnsley. Some how I think his best bet would be to have them made on the pacific rim (shudder). Did you think he was serious?
Tom Mattimore

[jake]

Erick,

Thanks for the reference and getting the ball rolling. Wish I had a pair to donate, but unfortunately, I don't.

Tom,

Thanks for volunteering Partner!

[erickgeer]

Well, he seemed glad that there was interest. He specifically said that they wouldn't be doing large scale manufacturing, so if he can make them, they'll probably be expensive. He said he would need to disassemble a sample - probably irreversable.

The only Bulldog Pincers I've ever handled were in Larry Waller's shop, and they were way prettier than the USM ones Global Supply is selling. I don't know what maker they were, if I remember them right, they were pretty short from the jaws to the tip of the handle, and had a real nice looking rest (is that the spoon? where the lever presses against the shoe or boot?).

Erick

[tmattimore]

I will have to figure out the time difference and give him a call. If it keeps them around for the next generation it is worth it. I have a pair of the newer ones and consider them sutiable only for model boat anchors.
Tom

[SDaniel]

My daughters have been pestering me to make them
some leather leggings to ride in.
I was able to borrow a sample pair to make a
pattern from, and am ready to proceed except
for one thing.
There is a strip of elastic that runs down the
side of the leggings that keeps them snug on
the leg so they don't slip down. This elastic
is about 3 to four inches wide, and has a SIDEWAYS
stretch.
I am at a dead stop because I can't find this
stuff anywhere, and would certainly appreciate
any help locating it.

[tomo]

Hey SDaniel,
Here in NZ we call them leggings, Spats (usual)or even Chappettes. Some are made with the elastic you're referring to, others have a zip that runs virtically down the outside, and 4 velcro tabs then sit across the zip - ie one across the zip at the top, one at the bottom and the other two in between. The velcro tabs are covered in the same leather that the leggings are made from and are cutapproximately 2½" x 1½". The zips normally are the large toothed plastic sort, YKK here usually supply them here.
The leather most often used is sede split in whatever colour. You get a nice fit and the leather has enough stretch for most purposes.

The disadvantage of the elastic is that it will crap out after awhile and starts to loose its stretch. We get ones here made in say India that have the elastic covered in light leather that concertinas when the elastic stretches.
Regular elastic like the sort that is used in the sides of boots is reasonably available, but only 4/5" wide; the other stuff less so and off the top of my head I don't know of anyone that stocks it. I know that was your main question but hopefully I've shown another way.

More power to y'awl.
Tom.

[sdaniel]

Tom,
Thank you for the kind reply. I have decided to
go with your description and use the zip with
velcros.
Will have to do a bit of diplomacy with the young
ladies. Even at age 6 and age 9 they want what
they want; which is usually exactly like what their friends have.

Daniel

[tomo]

Daniel,
if you do a good enough job, their friends will want what they have, and you'll be a legend!
- young people need more heroes.
More power to y'awl.

Good luck,
Tom.
Going to see Cold Mountain, gotta scoot.
Ciao T.

[tmattimore]

Is any one familiar with a source for heel plates with a flange for the nails that may be concealed with a leather insert?
Thanks Tom Mattimore

[mic]

Hello all,

Haven't made a peep on the forum since I first introduced myself, what, a year ago? How time flies!

Anyway, I now find myself with a little more free time to pursue my hobby of trying to learn how to make shoes for myself and friends, and I'm finding it difficult to find sources for materials. I have searched the colloquy & the CD archive and haven't found what I'm looking for. If I've overlooked it, please forgive the repeat posting.

Specifically, I'm looking for a source that will sell reasonably small quantities (i.e. several square yards instead of hundreds) of sheet rubber/synthetic soling - like synthetic crepe rubber for instance.

I'm also looking for a source for synthetic leather for use in uppers. I know most of the folks on this forum prefer the real thing, but I'm a vegetarian, and would very much prefer to use a non-animal upper material if any exists that is any good at all. I've seen Internet sources for "UltraLeather" and "Pleather" but I have no experience with this material and don't know how it would perform as upper material.

Thank you for your help!

--Michelle

[jake]

Michelle,

Welcome back!

I'm just fixing to walk out the door to meet someone at the shop, but any of your jobbers should carry the rubber/synthetic sheet soling. I'll be back with references if somebody doesn't beat me to it later on this evening.

As to the "non-animal" upper material, I can't help ya there.

[tmattimore]

Your nearest shoe finder would be the best choice for finding small quantities of soling. "Ultra Suede" is a passable but poor subsitute but would pass for facings and toe caps. Stay away from anything made of vinyl or PVC or urethane as these do not breathe. I won't try to convert you into a leather user so I would say your only limit in fabrics is your imagination. I have seen wool, canvas and other fabrics used to make excellent footwear.

[dw]

All,

Today I received a gallon of press cement from Mid-West Industrial. It looks, smells, and dries up like the old Barge press cement...much more so than the stuff I've been getting from Upaco.

I talked to the chemist there some time back and he told me that the formula was nitro-cellulose and acetone...period. The Upaco has some additives that make it dry a bit slower and make it more flexible. I don't think the Barge had any of those additives.

Anyway, a gallon is right at $32.00 before shipping and they will sell you one gallon. Upaco wanted to sell five gallons.

Here's the skinny:

Mid-West Industrial
1509 Sublette Ave.
St. Louis MO 63110
1.314.781.5831

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
http://www.bootmaker.com

"Little Jack Dandiprat, in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives the shorter he grows."

[erickgeer]

So is Press Cement another product from Barge? They don't carry a big variety of adhesives at my local supplier, so I've been under the impression that Barge only made Contact Cement and All-Purpose.

Erick

[das]

Michelle,

You local shoe repair supplier is the best choice for small amounts, however try ALGEOS.com in the UK.

For uppers, a material called Lorica out of Italy has been recommended as a good non-critter upper material.

Of course depending on the styles and types you want to make, you might consider some of the hemp or cotton canvas, luggage linens, and even heavier worsted [hard-finished] wool cloths, maybe trimmed with faux-leather like Lorica.

[mic]

Thanks gents. Please excuse my appalling ignorance, but when you say "jobber" or "finder" are you talking about a shoe repair shop, of which there are several in my neck of the woods, or a shoe parts supplier, of which I know of none around here? ("here" is the Front Range of Colorado, BTW) Well, at least they're not listed in the phonebook as such.

Thanks also for the warning about cheezy synthetic leather that doesn't breathe. I just received an email tip about synthetic leathers called Lorica and Clarino that I'm going to try to look into. I have also been considering using cotton duck or hemp, but haven't been able to find any from retail sources that seem heavy enough (> 10 oz weight, I figure, is needed), though maybe, as a last resort, I could double the thickness of 10 oz canvas and be okay.

Anybody have experience with durable fabric shoes?

--Michelle

[das]

Michelle,

Sorry for my typo, but glad to help. You need to ask your local repair shop who their supplier is--"Finders" are the big central shoe repair supply warehouses that sell them their soles, heels, nails, glue, etc. It's best if there's one you can visit in person, and hand-select your goods, plus see what else they have that you might want to spend money on

I'd avoid Clorino like the plague. It's cheap-looking, shiny [imagine wet-look '70s jackets and purses], and won't breath. Lorica has a website, and their product at least looks like leather.

Do a Google search for "hemp canvas 10 oz." and see what you get. Wooden Hamlet [sp?], mentioned on here a while back might carry some heavier canvas. Check Trowbridge & Son. They're reinactor suppliers, and have some beautiful twill woven, heavy, hemp canvas. There are more choices if you try wools. Again, do a Google search for 10, 12, or even 18 oz. "worsted wool" yard goods. A better time to have looked for this was before winter. Now the stocks are all shifting into summer-weight stuff. Another possibility is art supply stores, who often have very nice, heavy, linen canvas.

Any/all cloth uppers ought to be lined. A nice balance would be worsted wool outers, trimmed with faux-leather, with a twill canvas lining, and some of that evil Celastic stiffeners in the heel and toe. You're going to have such a huge range of choices if you go with textiles, even more than us leather-heads. You could try and see if you can get some of that waxed-cotton duck, like Barbour jackets, or Filson's goods are made from, for water-repellant utilitarian stuff.

Best cotton twill shoe-lining I've found, purpose made for that application, is from Cooper Fabrics [do a search]. Their item number 34601. .28 cents a foot if bought in quantity and very tough-wearing.

Happy hunting.

[dw]

Erick,

Press cement used to be made by Pierce and Stevens under the Barge brand name. The've discontinued the product.

For a while there it looked like there wasn't gonna be any source.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

frommer@bootmaker.com
http://www.bootmaker.com

"Little Jack Dandiprat, in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives the shorter he grows."

[tmattimore]

Michelle
The only finder in the Colo/Wyo area is Southern Leather 4199 F Oneida st Denver CO. 80216
303 377 7653. They are near the old Stapelton area a few blocks from I70 and Monaco.
Tom Mattimore

[jake]

Michelle/Tom,

Yeah....they used to be called Dunn Leather. I've even done business with them. Good people!

[Georgene McKim]

Michelle

www.dharmatrading.com carries hemp linen canvas and Tencel/linen canvas as well as many dyes and products for textile artists. You could hand paint or custom dye some shoes! Ask for a catalog.

Georgene McKim

[mic]

Thanks D.A., I would have never considered worsted wool, but it is an intriguing concept. I am looking into the sources you mentioned.

Thank you also Tom & Jake, that is very helpful info about Southern Leather in Denver. I'll have to plan a trip there soon.

BTW, I've got an inquiry in to the Lorica folks (www.loricasud.com) to see if they can direct me to retailers of their product in the States.

Thanks too, Georgene. I had come across Dharma Trading online before, but I've been looking at so many fabric store websites, I think I must have glazed over the 12 oz hemp they carry.

This has been a great response, and I really appreciate the help. I'm going to do a little hunting to rustle up specific sources and products from those mentioned. If anyone else here cares to know the results, let me know.

Cheers!

--Michelle

[Sharon Raymond]

Greetings, I have been interested in the responses for leather alternatives in shoemaking. I have recently been working with feltmakers to make clogs in incredible colors and patterns. A thin commercial felt (www.aetnafelt.com) could be dyed to create a range of nice solid colors. If you're interested, I can give you more details. I agree w/ Al that lorica is the stuff to find (I haven't), it's what all the non-leather shoemakers in UK use. If a local shoe supplier fails, J. Weiner in Roanoke, Va at 800-444-6979 has everything (you have to have proof of being a wholesale business). For flat soling I recommend Vibram pyramid - 12 or 18 oz. For unit soles that can be cut to fit w/ a bandsaw, try Vibram gumlite 1715 w/tapered heel or 1716 w/ standard heel.(buy a small men's size for women).

[erickgeer]

Michelle,
If you are looking an alternative for toeboxes, I have had good results using precut and feathered thermoplastic materials, I get them from a finder in New York City called Kaufmans.

Kaufman shoe repair supplies inc.
(212) 777-1700
346 Lafayette st.
New York NY
USA

2807.jpg

The toe box material is very flexible, and the counter material is pretty rigid, and they both form with a heat gun or (more time consuming) a hair dryer. I've never gotten a product name from them, and they have a minimum purchase amount to ship. Maybe someone else knows another source.

It's nice to avoid the acetone if possible.

Erick