Robert,
PS...June talks about the story of the 19th century Philadelphia(?) shoemaker who did a pair of "prizework" shoes for an International Exposition using "64 to the inch." The story was, if memory serves...(I've got it written down somewhere) that it took him several years and he wore two pair of glasses (one on top of the other)...and, upon completion, never made another pair of shoes again. [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/sad.gif"%20ALT="sad[/img]
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Tools of the Trade
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
re bevels...Is there a reason why most skiving knives, including the Tina, only have a bevel on one side? If they were bevelled on both sides, couldn't they be used right handed or left handed, for push skiving or for pull skiving? This would seem to make them more versatile. Or does it affect their performance negatively to have both sides bevelled?
-
tomo
Re: Tools of the Trade
Jenny,
Having one side beveled allows you to drop your hand more and affect the degree of cut. With the bevel on the top side the knife is directed into the work.
OK, imagine a boat going up a river, now imagine if that boat were split down the centre virtically (like a bevel edged knife), and the left side (port) was removed, the boat would keep going away from the side with the bevel and to the left. With the knife the blade is directed into the work ie away from the bevel. It makes it easier to keep the blade cutting.
A plough gauge is sharpened with a bevel so that the gauge is always forced to cut into the hide, but the gauge (fence) stops it cutting off a wider strip.
More power to y'awl.
T.
Having one side beveled allows you to drop your hand more and affect the degree of cut. With the bevel on the top side the knife is directed into the work.
OK, imagine a boat going up a river, now imagine if that boat were split down the centre virtically (like a bevel edged knife), and the left side (port) was removed, the boat would keep going away from the side with the bevel and to the left. With the knife the blade is directed into the work ie away from the bevel. It makes it easier to keep the blade cutting.
A plough gauge is sharpened with a bevel so that the gauge is always forced to cut into the hide, but the gauge (fence) stops it cutting off a wider strip.
More power to y'awl.
T.
-
tomo
Re: Tools of the Trade
DW,
doesn't Jake sew his outsoles by hand? I seem to remember he was pretty big on it.
Does it take much curry to push the sq awl through the sole, I imagine the blade is like the pegging awl? Seems like you've done a good job and the bottom's finished off nicely too. It's just all my sewing has been with a blade awl and sometimes they can be hard to push through, but a square awl...
I guess you enter the work from the bottom (and not wanting to sound like a Proctologist touting for work I'd better add), ie the sole side
ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps.) Day here today, a national holiday in rememberance of the old soldiers who never returned from WWI, WWII and subsequent wars, I just bought my ol' dad back from the dawn parade, he's 84.
More power to y'awl.
T.
doesn't Jake sew his outsoles by hand? I seem to remember he was pretty big on it.
Does it take much curry to push the sq awl through the sole, I imagine the blade is like the pegging awl? Seems like you've done a good job and the bottom's finished off nicely too. It's just all my sewing has been with a blade awl and sometimes they can be hard to push through, but a square awl...
I guess you enter the work from the bottom (and not wanting to sound like a Proctologist touting for work I'd better add), ie the sole side
ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps.) Day here today, a national holiday in rememberance of the old soldiers who never returned from WWI, WWII and subsequent wars, I just bought my ol' dad back from the dawn parade, he's 84.
More power to y'awl.
T.
-
dw
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 5830
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
- Full Name: DWFII
- Location: Redmond, OR
- Has Liked: 204 times
- Been Liked: 125 times
- Contact:
Re: Tools of the Trade
Tom,
Actually, the "square" awl is a blade awl... however, the blade is in the vertical plane rather than the horizontal plane as it is in a sewing awl or an inseaming awl. The awl itself is curved much like a sewing awl and it needs to be quite sharp. It is generally sharpened flat like a knife rather than oval or diamond shaped in cross section the way a sewing or inseaming awl might be sharpened. Although it does have a secondary bevel to prevent the blade from getting too thin and uncontrollable.
The awl is pushed through from the top--the weltside--and because it is a bladed awl it is a little difficult to keep aligned from one hole to the next--so that all the "slits" made by the awl are in line and dressed up. And the blade itself is always held at a 90° angle to the edge of the outsole and welt.
Jake, taking a cue from Handmade Shoes For Men, was, I believe, using a standard sewing awl--with the blade running parallel to the edge of the welt and driving the awl in from the weltside. This style of outsole stitching is very popular in Eastern Europe...perhaps simply because they have evolved their own look/approach or maybe because square awls are very hard to come by. I don't know anyone manufacturing them...with the possible exception of Dick Anderson. Mine are all antiques, and I keep them under lock and key.
BTW, for what it's worth, I tried Chris's skiving method--with the glass pane more or less upright in the lap. With a good curved skiving knife such as a Tina or Berg, it's almost easier than trying to do it on a table top. But for me at least, I would have trouble getting my head around skiving large pieces...such as boot tops, or even front blockers...like this. Just trying to support a large piece against the pull of gravity seems a bit counterproductive. Mind you I haven't tried it and I am sure there are makers for whom such considerations would be trivial.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Actually, the "square" awl is a blade awl... however, the blade is in the vertical plane rather than the horizontal plane as it is in a sewing awl or an inseaming awl. The awl itself is curved much like a sewing awl and it needs to be quite sharp. It is generally sharpened flat like a knife rather than oval or diamond shaped in cross section the way a sewing or inseaming awl might be sharpened. Although it does have a secondary bevel to prevent the blade from getting too thin and uncontrollable.
The awl is pushed through from the top--the weltside--and because it is a bladed awl it is a little difficult to keep aligned from one hole to the next--so that all the "slits" made by the awl are in line and dressed up. And the blade itself is always held at a 90° angle to the edge of the outsole and welt.
Jake, taking a cue from Handmade Shoes For Men, was, I believe, using a standard sewing awl--with the blade running parallel to the edge of the welt and driving the awl in from the weltside. This style of outsole stitching is very popular in Eastern Europe...perhaps simply because they have evolved their own look/approach or maybe because square awls are very hard to come by. I don't know anyone manufacturing them...with the possible exception of Dick Anderson. Mine are all antiques, and I keep them under lock and key.
BTW, for what it's worth, I tried Chris's skiving method--with the glass pane more or less upright in the lap. With a good curved skiving knife such as a Tina or Berg, it's almost easier than trying to do it on a table top. But for me at least, I would have trouble getting my head around skiving large pieces...such as boot tops, or even front blockers...like this. Just trying to support a large piece against the pull of gravity seems a bit counterproductive. Mind you I haven't tried it and I am sure there are makers for whom such considerations would be trivial.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
-
dw
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 5830
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
- Full Name: DWFII
- Location: Redmond, OR
- Has Liked: 204 times
- Been Liked: 125 times
- Contact:
Re: Tools of the Trade
Tom,
Here's a photo of some square awls...different sizes, different manufacturers, different ages...
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Here's a photo of some square awls...different sizes, different manufacturers, different ages...
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Thanks, Tom. I think I understand. If there is a bevel on the top side (away from the leather), the knife tends to dig deeper and deeper into the leather and it is harder to control the depth of the skiving? Correct me if I'm wrong!
Jenny
Jenny
-
dmcharg
- 5
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2011 9:00 am
- Full Name: Duncan McHarg
- Location: Clunes, Victoria, Australia
- Been Liked: 21 times
- Contact:
Re: Tools of the Trade
Tom, DW, et al,
I have only one square awl (antique) so as I am sure that given enough time I will break it, I don't use it.
My sollution is buying high carbon music wire of the right diameter, from a model airoplane shop in town. 3' of it for about $4.
You may have to heat to red hot and slowly cool to soften as some that I have bought was extremly hard and put grooves in my file!
WEAR GOGGLES
Cut to length.
Stick one end into the dremel and while
spinning, file a short taper in it to fit your haft (handle).
Turn it around. This can be a little hard to get a realy tight grip in the chuck.
File in your long taper for the blade part, then work your way through the various grades of 'wet & dry' sandpaper untill you have a mirror finish.
Heat and shape the awl to match DW's examples (small blow torch or even a gas stove top, tapping the awl over small curves to shape).
File the flats in the short haft end if you wish.
Heat the tip and tap it flat.
Heat the 'business' half of the awl to red, quench in water or oil.
Gently polish back to clean metal (at this point it's fragile).
Now, *very gently*, heat up the middle of the blade. You are *not* trying to get any incandescence, just watching the change in the pretty colours as they move down the blade! This can happen suddenly.
The colour you are after is a purply dark blue.
Quench the instant this colour reaches the tip.
This gives a progression in hardness and should reduce the liklyhood of breakage.
If you miss the colour, Don't Panic, just reheat to red and start again.
About 40 mins work and completely custom
Librarian is having trouble with the drawings so she's going to ask advice and have a shot at home tonight! No wonder she was voted the best librarian in the state of Victoria (Australia)
Cheers
Duncan
I have only one square awl (antique) so as I am sure that given enough time I will break it, I don't use it.
My sollution is buying high carbon music wire of the right diameter, from a model airoplane shop in town. 3' of it for about $4.
You may have to heat to red hot and slowly cool to soften as some that I have bought was extremly hard and put grooves in my file!
WEAR GOGGLES
Cut to length.
Stick one end into the dremel and while
spinning, file a short taper in it to fit your haft (handle).
Turn it around. This can be a little hard to get a realy tight grip in the chuck.
File in your long taper for the blade part, then work your way through the various grades of 'wet & dry' sandpaper untill you have a mirror finish.
Heat and shape the awl to match DW's examples (small blow torch or even a gas stove top, tapping the awl over small curves to shape).
File the flats in the short haft end if you wish.
Heat the tip and tap it flat.
Heat the 'business' half of the awl to red, quench in water or oil.
Gently polish back to clean metal (at this point it's fragile).
Now, *very gently*, heat up the middle of the blade. You are *not* trying to get any incandescence, just watching the change in the pretty colours as they move down the blade! This can happen suddenly.
The colour you are after is a purply dark blue.
Quench the instant this colour reaches the tip.
This gives a progression in hardness and should reduce the liklyhood of breakage.
If you miss the colour, Don't Panic, just reheat to red and start again.
About 40 mins work and completely custom
Librarian is having trouble with the drawings so she's going to ask advice and have a shot at home tonight! No wonder she was voted the best librarian in the state of Victoria (Australia)
Cheers
Duncan
-
admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 428
- Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 10:00 am
- Full Name: Admin
- Has Liked: 1 time
- Been Liked: 5 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 428
- Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 10:00 am
- Full Name: Admin
- Has Liked: 1 time
- Been Liked: 5 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Sorry Duncan, from your description, I think your librarian is in trouble. 
Anyway, here they are...
[for those who are uncertain about resampling a photo or drawing, the max resolution should be 6"x4" at 96 dpi...or threabouts. This give a small enough pic to be easily downloaded and one that does not require scrolling to be fully seen, yet large enough to be easily "read."]
Yr. Humb. Svt.
Anyway, here they are...
[for those who are uncertain about resampling a photo or drawing, the max resolution should be 6"x4" at 96 dpi...or threabouts. This give a small enough pic to be easily downloaded and one that does not require scrolling to be fully seen, yet large enough to be easily "read."]
Yr. Humb. Svt.
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
I am still putting together my grinding/buffing/sharpening station, and am having trouble figuring out how to accomplish one thing. I want to make my own approximately 1 inch wide by 6 inch diameter wheels to which I can attach my own choice of felt or canvas for buffing, different grades of sandpaper for sanding, etc.
I am thinking of making them out of MDF board, with probably two layers glued together to get the desired thickness, but am not sure how to drill the half inch center hole perfectly straight and perfectly centered, since I don't have a drill press. Also not sure how to get a really round circle (my jigsaw leaves something to be desired). I gather I can put the imperfect wheels on the bench grinder and shave (?) them down, if that's the only way, but not sure how to get that center hole really perfect.
I know most of you have professional equipment and probably haven't had to deal with this, but if anyone has any suggestions...
Jenny
I am thinking of making them out of MDF board, with probably two layers glued together to get the desired thickness, but am not sure how to drill the half inch center hole perfectly straight and perfectly centered, since I don't have a drill press. Also not sure how to get a really round circle (my jigsaw leaves something to be desired). I gather I can put the imperfect wheels on the bench grinder and shave (?) them down, if that's the only way, but not sure how to get that center hole really perfect.
I know most of you have professional equipment and probably haven't had to deal with this, but if anyone has any suggestions...
Jenny
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Looking at the Koleff book again, I'm thinking I'll have to use a pulley as he recommends...
-
johnl
- 3
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:10 am
- Full Name: John Lewis
- Location: Memphis, TN, USA
-
dmcharg
- 5
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2011 9:00 am
- Full Name: Duncan McHarg
- Location: Clunes, Victoria, Australia
- Been Liked: 21 times
- Contact:
Re: Tools of the Trade
Thanks D.W. for doing the resizing. As you will see over in the Test Messages the librarian's sister managed to do the shrinking and come up with a good copy. I'd just shot over here to put said pic. up, and saw your message. Oh well. 
Have written information down for next time.
Hey, only took about 3 weeks to answer Jenny's question.
Cheers
Duncan
Have written information down for next time. Hey, only took about 3 weeks to answer Jenny's question.
Cheers
Duncan
-
dmcharg
- 5
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2011 9:00 am
- Full Name: Duncan McHarg
- Location: Clunes, Victoria, Australia
- Been Liked: 21 times
- Contact:
Re: Tools of the Trade
Just re-reading my post about making awls.When I said gently heat the middle of the blade (with the tempering) and watch the colours,what I meant was the middle of the whole awl not just the sharp bit at the end. Sorry if this caused any confusion.
Duncan
Duncan
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Goetz tool alert! MacPherson Leather is going to be placing an order with Goetz in a week or two, if anyone wants to order. They are checking prices for me on some small lasting pliers and various widths of Tina knives (that may be the same, or similar to, ones pictured above by Rob). If anyone's interested, let me know and I'll post or e-mail prices when I get them.
They were out of Goetz catalogs, so weren't able to mail me one, but faxed a couple pages to me. Images are not very clear, so I'm not sure if these are the exact tools Rob has...
Jenny
They were out of Goetz catalogs, so weren't able to mail me one, but faxed a couple pages to me. Images are not very clear, so I'm not sure if these are the exact tools Rob has...
Jenny
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Got some prices on various width Tina knives from MacPherson, and also on two narrow lasting pliers (one they have in stock). They expect to be ordering from Goetz in the next week or two, and it takes 8 to 10 weeks for their order to arrive. I imagine most of you already have all the tools you need, but it anyone wants info, post or e-mail me, and I'd be happy to share!
Jenny
Jenny
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Pictures of the narrow lasting pliers (next to C.S. Osborne pliers):
Haven't used them yet, but I am very impressed with their quality. I think they are only available in two sizes now...narrow and wide. The middle size isn't listed in the catalog anymore.
Jenny
Haven't used them yet, but I am very impressed with their quality. I think they are only available in two sizes now...narrow and wide. The middle size isn't listed in the catalog anymore.
Jenny
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Dextrine clean-up question. I received my sample of Dextrine from U.S. Adhesives today, but realized I had forgotten to ask what to use to clean off brushes, etc. Can anyone provide that info, otherwise I'll call them tomorrow to find out. Thanks!
Jenny
Jenny
-
ttex
Re: Tools of the Trade
Jenny
The wide one is a clog pincer. They work fine if you get used to it. I use my for some things. You need to take a file to the teeth before using them or else you will ruin some uppers. File the sharp edges down just a little.
CW
The wide one is a clog pincer. They work fine if you get used to it. I use my for some things. You need to take a file to the teeth before using them or else you will ruin some uppers. File the sharp edges down just a little.
CW
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
Chris, do you still have to worry about the teeth if you are only using them on the lasting margin?
Jenny
Jenny
-
dw
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 5830
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
- Full Name: DWFII
- Location: Redmond, OR
- Has Liked: 204 times
- Been Liked: 125 times
- Contact:
Re: Tools of the Trade
Dextrine should be water based...leastwise the stuff my old saddle teacher used was.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
-
dw
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 5830
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
- Full Name: DWFII
- Location: Redmond, OR
- Has Liked: 204 times
- Been Liked: 125 times
- Contact:
Re: Tools of the Trade
Jenny,
Not to steal Chris' thunder, but in my opinion, all pincers need a little "softening" of the teeth before usage. Pay particular attention not so much to the center of the jaws but to the very edges...it's those sharp little corners on each tooth that, with the twisting and turning of the pincers, start the ripping process. I have seen (been there done that and bought the T-shirt) makers using new pincers rip the leather they were pulling on (lasting margin only, please) and have the pincer come back and hit them in the face or chest.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Not to steal Chris' thunder, but in my opinion, all pincers need a little "softening" of the teeth before usage. Pay particular attention not so much to the center of the jaws but to the very edges...it's those sharp little corners on each tooth that, with the twisting and turning of the pincers, start the ripping process. I have seen (been there done that and bought the T-shirt) makers using new pincers rip the leather they were pulling on (lasting margin only, please) and have the pincer come back and hit them in the face or chest.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
-
jenny_fleishman
- 7
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Jenny Fleishman
- Location: Chicago, IL, USA
- Been Liked: 2 times
Re: Tools of the Trade
If Dextrine is water based, wouldn't it soften and be a problem when the shoes get wet?
Jenny
Jenny