The Crispin Colloquy

I've been using Duall 88 All Purpose Cement for some time now. I notice I need a second coat if I let it sit too long on fresh-scratched veg, but that second coat can follow closely, so I don't notice the hold up. Works well and doesn't smell too bad.

I have not been happy with the tack of Barge Rubber Cement for some time now.

I'm not happy to hear about the MEK substitution.

DW, Thanks, I'll give the options a try.

Paul

A while back I was doing some research on adhesives and was a little surprised to find that all of the Vibram literature says to use Barge products.

Then I found out that in addition to owning Barge, Quabaug is the North American Manufacturer of Vibram soling products under exclusive license.

I'm sure it's just a coincidence!

I'm using the Duall all-purpose and like working with it.
DW like you I just started using the TF Barge rubber cement,and hate it. It smells so bad and bothers me worse than the original formula ever did. Let me know which of the two rubber cements you end up liking.
J.

Does anyone use Master's All Clear?

Tia

I've used Master's Quick dry for about ten years.I only use one coat and its a great bond ,not to mention quick.Smells wonderful.

I've been using Duall 88 for years and like it. It doesn't outgas much and if you miss a spot during clean-up, it's clear so it doesn't leave a nasty yellow scab on the leather.

If they start swapping in MEK in the Duall formula I don't know what I'll do...maybe I'll have to learn to work with hide glue. The only place I really would miss AP is when attaching the outsole prior to stitching. I know outsoling can be done without All Purpose but I never learned that technique. Although it might be a bit harder on a beveled waist and fiddle back shank--my current obsession.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

I decided to try the thread when I read
Mr. Skyrme's comment in his book that it was in his opinion a better thread to use. Is the thread he is refering to a differant type?
Kevin

That's entirely possible. But all things being equal...meaning we are talking about the same threads, the same weights, and the same applications....nylon is stronger by far than the Dual Duty. And it shines as well or better than silk. Mind you I've not been all that impressed by the strength of the silk I've run across either so maybe if you don't care about the sheen and are just comparing the Dual Duty to silk for strength, cotton/poly might be the superior thread.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Kevin

My threads were made by Coats mainly. I tried the nylon but found that they frayed too easily and the ends unravelled. I had no problems with the polyester cored threads that I used. They are able to be hammered and flatten nicely to hide the needle holes too. Here they are called polyfil, and I found them to be very strong. I don't know about silk threads, I never used them.

Tim

In Marcell's high heel class we used an AP cement called Jet-set. not particularly stinky, even with so many of us using it in a basement room with one big fan running, and no headache/sickness either. would like to find that stuff! I got the new Barge and it is gross. Same physiological responses that others have described. I don't even want to use up the one can I got.

Thanks for the responses. On another note, Petronoi's makes a rubber cement you might want to try. It is not toluene free.
Kevin

I'm looking for a leather hardener to brush onto welts to firm them up a bit. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Craig

Craig,

LCI made a leather hardener that we used some at Galco years ago. I don't have a contact phone number, nor do I know if it would work as you'd like, but it's the only product I know of to match with your request.

However I'm not so sure it's such a good idea to be hardening welts. Over the years, replacing soles, picking stitches and restitching can be hard on welts.
I think it'd be better to use firmer leather, and just make your own. Horse butts, such as several of us use here would be better, and they're not alot of money.

If you're using premade welt from shoe finders, I'd leave off with that and upgrade. I've been getting mine from Siegel.

Good luck.

Thanks Paul for the lead! I found this website for LCI. Right place?

Right place.

I'll have to spend some time looking around their site.

All,...I heard some of you speak about ordering direct from GOTZ in Germany recently.I just received my first order from them.I ordered direct from their website and found them a pleasure to work with.The order arrived in about 10 days,complete and well packaged.I will be ordering again.

I am looking for a new or rebuilt Bell Knife for a PLUMA SKIVING MACHINE MODEL H made by United Shoe Machinery Corp. The Serial Number is 882.

Randall Leather Machinery Corp does not have one.

Thank You

Bill

Is a skiving machine usually clutched on and off like a sewing machine?

Bill

Some are, some aren't. The bell knife runs all the time but the drive stone may not.

I have two skivers--an old Pedersen and a Fortuna. I think the Fortuna is driven on demand; the Pederson...which has a toothed steel drive...runs all the time.

Or vice-versa. I think I have it right but I'm not in my shop to check at the moment.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

I take it back...when I got out to the shop this morning, I saw that the Pedersen bell spun constantly but the drive did not. And the Fortuna...well neither the bell nor the drive stone turned until I stepped on the pedal.

Sorry for the confusion.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Hi all.

I am looking for a really good picture of a Singer 29K patcher. Specifically the lower end of the needle bar. I have a feeling that the thread retaining spring (#8656) may be AWOL from ours. Which would explain it's slightly eccentric stitching.I can't actually see how it is all meant to sit down there. Any tips ?

Hi John. This site will show you the user manual for the 29K. http://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/NMAHTE X/2672/imagepages/image1.htm Hope this helps. Bill

Thanks Bill - I have a copy of that. Spring is definitely AWOL - broken about half way down. Time to play at hunt the part again :-)

Its tempting to buy an old boat anchor and break it for parts. Whilst one was at it, all the odd fittings could be measured up and drawn so that we could have them made up if needed in the future. The manual actually has workable drawings - just need annotating with dimensions.

Anyone in the UK have one holding a door open ?

John, email me on silver at where dot else dot net dot nz I have a document by someone who restored a 29k that might help you.

The other thing you could do is get hold of Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd. He's on the leatherworker.net forum and on there at least seems to be the go-to guy for 29k parts.

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

I've converted that 29k58 manual to a multi-page PDF for convenience.

If anyone wants a copy just email me on silver at where dot else dot net dot nz