The Crispin Colloquy

The next shows the side seams cut loose and the vamps and liners removed. Again, care was given to picking all thread free from the leather.

(Message edited by paul on March 20, 2009)

Next the crimpt vamps are put in place. Extra care was necessary here to make the tongue just big enough, and placed so that it covered the stitch holes from the first set of vamps.

It was then sewed on, the side linings were glued in, and vamp liners were stitched in. Then it was all trimmed for my side draft as shown below.

Next comes the tricky part. And here's where I could make it or break it.
My goal was that it all go back together again without looking like it was done in a shoe repair shop. I was charging him top dollar for this job. It had to be worth it.

The hard part is getting the side seam stitched back the way it was. So I matched up and made new holes in the vamp along the edge, aligning them with the side piping holes, being very careful at the four part junction. There's alot of stress at this point putting a boot on, and the side seam must be strong enough to withstand the pressure for many years. For an awl I use a small size from a Union Lock heavy stitcher. It's been shown that awl holes placed at an angle like this is the strongest and by far the neatest method for hand stitching like this.

The next picture shows the tops turned in for stitching on my stitching pony.

And below the boots are turned right and ready for lasting.

And the next shows the lasting complete.


Thankfully I was able to use the same insole. It went much faster the second time.
Here is the inseaming completed. The shank area is being whipped before the shanks are installed.

And finally, the completed and ready to deliver boots.


I think I probably worked on this revamp about 20 hours or so, to get back where I was. It kinda put a delay on my next pairs, but I thought I could make some value out of the experience by getting some pictures and shareing my approach to the job.

Actually, I'm sure this is how most bootmakers do a revamp. I can't really imagine any other way to do it. If so, I'd sure love to see it or hear about it.
One of my reasons for sharing this job with the readers here, is because there are many who are not makers and yet who still appreciate the work that goes into what we do.

I hope some of you find some value in this presentation. And in the lesson to communicate the job with the customer.

With Regards,
Paul

Paul,

Thank you for your "How I" presentation. I found it very useful as a new bootmaker. So far all of my work has either been orthopaedic in nature (where cosmetics are important but are secondary to fit and function) or for family/friends. The thought of revamping finished work like that is daunting to say the least. I have some self described "picky" customers lined up for later this year so it is good to know that you don't always have to start from scratch in this situation.

I really admire your work!

Sean

Paul
Remarkable work, indeed.
I Looked at all the pic's and I must say can't see were exactly the inlay problem was?

My old mentor, who trained in Holland told me to graduate, you had to make a pair of shoes, lasts to finished product. Then one examiner would pull out a knife and cut the shoe some where. To finally graduate you then had to remake the shoe and the repair had to be invisible.

So I guess you have now graduated!

Also the term "revamped" has shown it's original meaning.
Regards
Brendan

Paul,

I have done a re-vamp this way a time or two myself...exactly this way. I did not relish the prospect when I set down to do it, and even though things turned out very very good, I would not look forward to having to do it again.

You did an extraordinarily good job on these and I'm sure I speak for all of us when I say, "thank you, thank you" for going to the trouble to post this wonderful tutorial.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Sean,
Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad you find some encouragement with regard to your "self described picky customers". I had one employer many years ago who said that picky customers were good for you because they bring out the best in you. I'm not so sure that's an absolute, but there you go. Good luck in the work ahead.

Brenden,
Thank you for your comments too. I think I didn't choose the picture that showed the problem as bad as it was for this customer. Look at this one.
Usually, I've seen a half quill vamp laid so that the quill pattern runs to the lateral side. It does look better that way. But in this case the customer didn't know what I planned or what to expect, and was thinking that half quill meant the forepart of the vamp would have the quills. As I acknowledged, the real problem was that I didn't communicate fully with him regarding what I was thinking. But like I said, the bare area where it was, was palpable to him.
Without being to quick to take on the mantle for myself, I've heard that one definition of Master, is one who can hide his mistakes. Apparenly your examiner subscribed to that perspective as well.

DW,
The job was indeed daunting from the get go. Especially since I had three more pair lined up to start right away.
This tutorial was a big deal for me for my first time putting something like this together. Your comments of acknowledgemnt are encouraging to take another try at it sometime.
Thank you for your double thank you!

With regards,
Paul

Paul,

Your shoe repair experience and artful talent really paid off.Now you can sleep easy........ Good Job.

Ed

Paul,
Excellent presentation. Several good lessons. To be honest, I hope I never have to do that. Like the attitude. No downgrading the "Picky Customer", just blame it on communication and fix the problem. Would bet he or his buddies will be back for another pair. One of the definitions of a Master is how you fix your screw-ups.

Paul,

Excellent job, I rarely make boots with a separate vamp except for the single back seam and invisible vamp. It's a chore of work as anyone who ever tackled it knows. I have re-lasted many a pair of CW boots that I made which were worn hard into battle and re did foot linings.
Now I am reminded why I almost exclusively peg and keep awaw from 4 piece boots.

Cheers,

JesseLee

DYING HAIR,
I took on a project to produce a French Military Backpack 1850's. The outer surface is covered in Black-Hair on Calf. I purchased two calf hides, but the hair is white. I tried a small sample to see if the leather dye I have would work. The result was, black leather with white hair, kind of silver look, but not the out come I need.
Has anyone ever had to dye hair on calf? And what would you recommend using?

Thank you, Joe Toth

Joe,

I haven't tried it yet, but I've been told that both RIT dye and ladies hair dye will color your hair. I've heard that you can airbrush the hair dye.

Let me know how it works if you try it.

Thanks,

Jason

Thanks Jason;

I will try it with the air brush and let you know.

Joe

I have been making a pair of brogued oxfords for my wife and although they are turning out better than I expected--I think I have the topline problem licked--I have two questions:

First, what do you really experienced shoemakers use to establish the line along which your vamp, or counter cover, or saddle will be attached? i have been using silver pen and sometime water colour pencils. I recently switched to gel pens. the problem is that although the ink wipes off if you wipe it off rather soon, if you let that ink sit for more than (?) 12 hours, it sets so permanently that I have not found anything that will remove it. I'm looking for an alternative or alternative method.

Second question, is it common to use some sort of "stay" under broguing. I am a little disturbed by the way that the hole will distort during lasting--which stretches the leather even if you are trying to be careful. OK, I'm using soft leathers for her shoes but not all brogues can be made of stiff, dense veg tan. Anyone got any suggestions?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

DW,

A couple of ideas, use topline tape to fix the topline from stretching out during lasting or from wear. I've been using it on all of my shoes and am very happy with the results. It is available from most finding suppliers, we got a lifetime supply from National Shoe here in Canada.

I don't use the gel pens for just those reasons, I use a scratch awl, being careful not to scratch the leather but just mark it. I took some sandpaper to my awl to soften the tip as well. If I'm worried about a particular leather not being strong enough even for that either I use the gel pen or just mark the pieces with a couple of dots from an awl. Good luck with your brogues I hope you will post some photos when you are finished. I recently recieved my cutter from Dick Anderson to turn my 31-15 into a gimping machine and will be trying my hand at a pair just as soon as I'm settled in from moving house. (with two kids under five who knows how long that might be.)

Jon

Jon,

Thanks for the observations. I do use topline tape. I know that some don't, but I like it and I like the sense of surety that it gives me.

But the broguing is another thing. I have seen material offered (by Ideal, mostly) that was called "stay." It comes in a tape and sometimes in sheets. I wondered if anyone knew what it was and how to use it. I tried some on a couple of brogued seams and it didn't seem to do much other than add thickness to the seam.

I will post photos...I have a student here and shoes and boots are "in-between," so to speak, but the women's oxfords for my wife are on the last and looking pretty good.

BTW, here's another question I've been meaning to ask for a long time...I want to use HirschKleber or some other form of water-soluble glue on the heel stiffeners and side stiffeners while lasting. But because these glues are water soluble it becomes a little problematic with light coloured leathers. How does one avoid water stains? Especially since the heel stiffener wants to be a little damp, at least even if you don't last wet.

???

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

I have the same problem with the gel pens. Usually, a combination of water, saddle soap and finally shoe polish, will take care of it, but it's still an imperfect situation.

But your post got me thinking (as I am wont to do). There must be some mild solvent that will take off the gel ink. The first thing that came to mind was ammonia. So I diluted household ammonia by 1/2 and tried it.

Worked very well! It removed the gel pen with minimal scrubbing (as opposed to heavy scrubbing with water that didn't really work). I then rinsed with water to insure I wasn't leaving any corrosive residue.

Now, this worked with my gel pens but formulations may vary. I use Y&C Gel Xtreme (gold)
GX100G.

Let me know if you have any luck with this.

BTW,

this test was done on GH French calf, which is particularly tough. So take this with a grain of salt.

Rick!!

You're back! Thanks for the suggestion about ammonia, I'll give it a shot.

But what I really want to ask about is your pilgrimage to Budapest. (Budapest?...Marcel's, at any rate)

How was you trip and the time you spent with the Meister?

And while you're at it...remember if there are no photos, it didn't happen!!

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

DW et. al.

The trip to Budpest and time in Marcell's workshop were fabulous!

I learned so much and took so many pictures, it's hard to know what to say. Budapest is a beautiful city. Despite it's size, it is very clean and safe... plus lots of tango

I learned the Gossier or spinning stitch (and double stitch welting, in general).


I learned how to do a really nice, strong back seam.


and how to make really small shoes...


plus a ton more. It was a fantastic experience.

Rick,

I am jealous...really, sincerely. And maybe one of these days, you'll drop by and put me straight on a few things I've had to gimmick up in the absence of tutoring from someone who knows the right way to do it.

Thanks for the photos...that tiny shoe is remarkable.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC