The Crispin Colloquy

BTW, nice camera, how are you liking it so far?

Rob,

In that photo, I am skiving along the top of the dome--length-wise on a cider jug (if that's what I was using). But in general...and what I teach...is to skive across the dome but not "down the slope" so that the leather is always bent down and away from the blade. That reduces the width of the "point of contact" between the blade edge and the leather and makes for a more controllable and precise skive. Sometimes you are skiving slightly down the slope but I recommend moving the leather up rather than continue to skive down.

I was skiving length-wise for two reasons--after all these years i am good at it no matter what position on the dome I skive from; and the requirements of taking the photo just necessitated (or seemed to at the time) having the dome in that position.

PS. The camera is a FujiFilm FinePix f6000fd--a bridge camera between the point and shoots and the dslr's. Call it a low end "pro-sumer." I got it for $265.00, new and after a still available rebate. I am learning to shoot everything in manual mode--setting shutter speed and aperature and I am also learning some of the ins and outs of programs like Photoshop and Gimp, etc., in order to coorect the exposure mistakes I sometimes make. Reading a histogram is a hoot!

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

BTW, the Bahco knives, which I originally got at Saderma, are no longer being brought into the US (at least not by Saderma.

If anyone knows of another dealer...holler please---these are pretty good knives.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

DW,

That makes sense, in my mind I could make a case for going over the dome or down the slope.

Ultimately I'd like to get myself a Canon SLR. Back when film was all there was I had a Canon Rebel, one of the nicest camera's I've ever had. The digital ones have been coming down in price but are still too steep for me. I'm happy with my point and shoot Kodak that makes downloading the pictures very easy.
I used the Opanda EXIF program you posted the other day to check out your camera

Bahco has a website, www.bahco.com, the logo seems different but it's a fish (close enough?) They don't have many knifes listed but may have it if you email them. If anyone can find them I'd be interested in trying one to see how it compares to my good old Tina blades.

Rob

Rob,

Thanks for the Bahco contact. I would never have guess that they would have a webpage. The fish is not the same, but I'm pretty sure it is the same outfit...how many Bahco's that make cutting tools can there be in the world? Anyway, I emailed them.

I had an old Olympus OM-1 back in the day. Didn't really understand phtography much then...certainly not as much as I do now. The Fuji is a good "bridge" camera because it "bridges" the gap between P&S and DSLR's. Now...now that I've had the Fuji for a month or so...I would probably be ready for a DSLR and would probably choose one--like the Nikon D40--instead (only twice the price) if I had the choice to make all over again.

But maybe not...to tell the truth, I did a lot of research on cameras before I bought. And one of the things that helped me decide was two sites, one in the US and one in Europe, that made side by side comparisons of IQ (image quality) of identical photos made under carefully controlled conditions and under varying light and camera settings. I looked at the Fuji against current Canons and Sony's and Panasonics...all in the same class. None could compare. I even looked at the Fuji against several DSLR's...surprisingly the Fuji not only held its own, it beat the dslr's in some instances.

Not every photo I take is good or even "OK" but I think it was Ansel Adams who said something to the effect that 12 acceptable photos in a year is good work.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

I had three pair of boots in storage for about a year. When I went to get the boots they had molded. They're custom-made boots. One is elephant ear, one is ostrich and one is anteater. Is there any way to remove the mold without damaging the boots?

Pat Irwin

posted by Lisa Sorrell

Pat/Lisa,

I would take a soft brush and a cap or two of bleach to a gallon of water and wash them off then rinse well with cold water. Let dry in a cool place no sun light,once dry apply Lexol then use shoe cream(polish is a no no) to clean them up.Stuff them with rags or paper for this job.You may have to wash them more than once.You can match the color using Meltonian )shoe cream.


Ed

Ed,
Thanks so much for the advice. Hopefully it will work out for him.

Lisa

All,

http://www.dimitribottier.com/5.aspx?sr=6 is a photo
montatge of shoemaking from a French shoemaker.

Tim

Very good! Our methods seems very similar...

(Message edited by Marcell on August 21, 2007)

I found a pair of English riding boots that I thought would fit a friend. The vamp part of the boot fits fine, but the top is too tight to get her calf in comfortably. They only have a seam in the back from top down to counter. It doesn't seem appropriate to cut into it. What do you think of cutting a slit, maybe about 2 inches long at the medial (inside) side of the top of the boot to allow a little more room at the top? Then maybe use a light leather to line the edge of the opening or maybe even add a piece of elastic there to still keep it tight around the calf? Any suggestions for adapting the boot to fit would be appreciated...

I have tried to post a picture of the boots, but it keeps telling me the format is not acceptable.
(Message edited by Josie on August 26, 2007)

(Message edited by Josie on August 26, 2007)

Josie,

It seems a bit drastic to cut the top of the boot. If you don't have a leg stretcher then see if a shoe repairer near you has one.

How much do you have to stretch it? It is possible to slit the top and put elastic in but it won't look as good as it did. Is it just the top or is the calf area below that where the problem is?

If you don't have the image as a .jpeg or .bmp this program won't let you put it on.

Tim

Josie,

I have done those type of repairs with good results,just be careful with the measurements each leg is different.The cut on the boot will have to be done ( V )like that using a piece of elastic suitable to the cut,place the elastic in between the upper and lining with a nice stitch no problem,this is done on the inside of each one.On another note if they were to big for the leg and need a closer fit still not a problem,that for another time.

Josie
As an amateur ridingboots maker, I´d second Tim´s advice. First thing to try should be stretching the tops. Leave the legs in cold or warm (not warmer than body temperature) water for a long while until they get full soaked and put the leg stretchers in, leaving them until they are completely dry. 3/4 days, maybe.
Usually the top measure is 2 cm. less than the calf at its widest point. Not only for aesthetics but also for comfort.
Angel

Josie,

Great advise here, and stretching would always be my first choice. But I also altered lots of these when I was doing shoe repair.

Elastic on the side is a viable approach. But it's limited to the top line, and hard to get relief if the need is further down than the first couple/few inches.

Another way is to add a "gusset" at the back seam. And though it does look alittle rough, it serves the need when the measure is considerable, as in very large calves.

Begin by measuring the circumference of each calf, and then the height from the floor to this calf line.

Next, cut the back tape free from the boot down to the ankle, where there is usually an inverted seam about here. Separate it at this seam and cut it loose another inch below that point. This reveals a zigzag seam, which closes the top.

Cut this seam and remove all the loose thread, down to somewhere in the area of the ankle, above the point where you stopped when cutting the back tape free. This is the length of your triangular insert, your gusset.

Now measure the inside circumference of the boot at the point of the calf height. The difference between this measure and your calf measurement is the width of your gusset at this point (you probably want to add an extra measure as Angel suggests). Then measure from the top line of the boot down to the point where the zigzag seam is still attached. This is the length of your gusset.

Using a piece of leather which is sturdy enough and thick enough to be compatible with the leather of the tops, cut a gusset the shape and size if this elongated V, using the above measurements as a pattern. Really it's more like a V to the calf line and then straight up to the top from there. Make a gentle curve for a better look.

Using a shoe patcher, next stitch it in the V opening you created when you cut the zigzag stitches. It'll help if you glue the edges together, and rig up the patcher to be able to zigzag stitch. (This is done by throwing a loop around the presser foot lifter handle so that it doesn't release all the way. I keep a leather thong looped around my top arm to use as I need it.)

Now this gusset and it's zigzag can be covered with a thinner piece of calf or some sort. It needs to be wide enough to cover the stitches, so it'll be bigger than your gusset, but don't make it any bigger than necessary. Restitch it at the bottom to the piece left from your inverted seam that you cut loose, and lay it over your gusset and stitch it closed. You might want to turn this over the top edge for comfort, or not.

I hope this is clear enough. Good luck.

PK,

Nice repairers trick that zig zag, learned something new today,but I have a hard time putting that in my mind.If you get a chance show a pic.

Ed

Paul,

Can you post a photo of the technique you use for the zig zag? I can't picture what you are doing.

On the topic of zig zag, you can do something similar to zig zag with a flat bed if you cut the patterns nett with no allowances, then loosen the top tension off as much as possible and put the seams together and close like you do when doing a closed seam. You then open the seam out and by applying a bit of pressure, pull them so that the edges lie together, the loose bobbin thread will allow you to do this. I would only use this in an emergency though as it is pretty weak. Maybe this will be of use to someone sometime.

Tim

Ed and Tim (and all),

Here are few shots to illustrate this riggin'.

The first shows the thong I use to capture the foot so it doesn't sit all the way down on the needle plate.


This second is a close up of what's going on. The foot is as far down as it will cycle, being prevented by the thong from going all the way down. (I use a twist for thinner and thicker materials.) The needle is in it's down stroke coming up, and this is when pressure is needed on the material to make the lock. As the needle withdraws, the foot is letting off of it's pressure getting ready to "walk". When it is completely free of the material, there is no pressure at all. This is when you move the material from your from one side of your line to the other. It's a one stitch at a time operation, tho with a treadle one can become pretty quick, first going down the line zigging and then coming back up the line zagging.


This third shot is of the completed stitch. As I said it's a little rough, but then again, it comes from the shoe repair trade, so whatdaya expect. I've only ever seen it set up this way on a treadle patcher.


PK

PK,

Nice rig up,and thanks for the shots.Man and I thought "Yogi Bear" was smart,Boo Boo needs to listen to you.

Ed

Thanks Ed,

Actually, I always thought it was very common in every shoe repair shop. I'm not smarter than the avarage bear, and I sure didn't think this up.

Glad you liked it.

Paul

Ed, Paul,

I didn't think this up either but I saw in in the first repair shop I worked in over 35 years ago.

Whoever did think it up was a genius.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Paul,

That's a really neat idea. Never mind it's not an original. Have not come across that one before. I'll have to try it.
My first instinct would have been to go with elastic but this way will probably give a cleaner look.
On the topic of elastic; does anyone have a good source for shoe grade elastic , 3 to 4 inches wide that stretches width wise, not length wise?
For a couple of repairs I've done I used some ice hokey pants elastic and doubled it up. I'd like to find some higher grade elastic for shoes. Not that I have a lot of call for it but it'll be nice to have some "just in case".

Rob

I believe that at one point there was a cam of some sort that did the same thing. I don't know which came first, but I remember seeing the mechanism...although not well enough to sketch it out.

The first time I saw the thong deal (and the way I have mine set up, as well) it was just a flat strap. It gets twisted until it will prevent the presserfoot from bottoming out and then it is attached to the presserfoot lift lever. Ever decade or so another twist is put in the strap to compensate for stretch.

Rob,

I've seen and used really heavy elastic in about three or four inch widths. But elastic is always gonna stretch lengthwise because of the way it's made and the fact that it is always longer than it is wide (unless you cut it contrary to the way it is manufactured). I got it from my shoe finder.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

DW,

A local shop that does a lot of ice hokey equipment repair actually buys elastic on a roll that stretches width wise. It will just depends on the orientation of the elastic when it's woven. Even doubled up it's not heavy enough to use in shoes, at least not in anything other than repairs.
I was thinking about the elastic used in a Chelsea boot.
and was just wondering if anyone had a source. My local finder does not carry it but a different one may. I just have not come across it.

Rob

Rob,

The local finder here- I Sachs- (same one Jenny uses) has some pretty wide, heavy elastic. I only bought four or five inch wide, but I'm pretty sure I saw wider. Give them a call and they should be able to help you: (312) 733-2815 (7a-3p central). If you're not in a rush, I can try and remember to bring some out of storage and up to Delavan.

Hope this helps,

Erick