The Crispin Colloquy

Jake, do you know if it's complete? (It looks sort of like a handle for a roller of some type - but then it would be missing something or other).

An inseaming burnisher

Marc

That should be "an inseaming burnisher (?) "

Jake, Ed very good!
Took me awhile...

DW, some people are blessed with a two handed thing. If you had one of those, I would imagine survival would be assured, especially if you were ampidexterous.
And as for the coffee; well that's a good thing. 'Cept too much makes you go like that little blue fella.

More power to y'awl.
T.

If you have tools with threads, especially crimping irons, sometimes they tend to bind or tighten with time. Here's a little tip that will help. Try putting a dab of "anti-seize" lubricant on the threads. It really helps. You can get it at your local auto parts supplier.

Hey Jake,
that's a great tip. Do you know if it'll work on hips and knees?
What about wallets? Might try some on my boss's...
Hope you're having a great day.
More power to y'awl.
T.

Tom,

No.....for hips and knees, I prescribe Jim Beam. It always works for me!

By the way, I have never found a recipe for "loosening" someone's wallet. If you find one, let me know.

Hope you had a good one! Take care Partner!

Dear sirs,
i am an italian translator and i've encountered some problems with a play in which many tools you use in your work are named. In particular, could you explain me what
a glazing iron is?
a waist iron is
a burnishing iron is
a seat wheel is (used to score leather i'm told)
Thank you for your kind attention

Francesco,

All the tools you mentioned are "finishing" tools. In other words, they would be used when the shoe or boot was virtually complete. And they would all be used for various polishing operations on the sole or heel. All would be used after heating on a small spirit lamp so that wax could be softened and "burnished" into the leather of the sole and heel.

The glazing iron would be used for the sides of the heel or the bottom of the sole. The waist iron would be pretty much confined to the area just in front of the heel but still on the bottom surface of the sole. The seat wheel is used around (not on top of) the top edge of the heel...next to the shoe itself... to create an ornamentation that at one time might have been part camouflage as well. It too was heated and then run around the edge of the heel, with the heel itself resting on the knee and the tool held with the palm upward--pushing.


You must understand, however, that some of these terms can describe very different tools depending on who you are talking to, and where they are from. Glazing iron, for instance can be any one of half a dozen tools...all used pretty much for the same purpose but perhaps shaped differently. Similarly with "burnishing iron"--a term that can legitimately be applied all the tools mentioned save the seat wheel and many more as well.

Having said that, there may be others on this forum who can give further advice...maybe even more historically accurate advice...but that is what I was taught and is the way I use these tools.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Your advice was very helpful. I had a chat with a local cobbler and managed to find a suitable italian word for describing burnishing iron. Actually, it is identified as lissa.

Thank you very much

Francesco Salerno

I've been noticing that the real trick to historical shoemaking lately seems to be all the darned woodworking Anyway, a friend made some knives recently for me and I thought I'd share them - along with some other items I've made since my last visit to Al. I'm sorry for the quality of the photos but my digital camera is dying.


An interpetation of the "medieval shoemaker's knife". The blade is bronze rather than steel because that's what the maker had on hand.

Marc

This knife (again a bronze blade) is based on examples illustrated in the painting of the "Life of St. Mark", 14th century.

This awl is based on a medieval example:

This pegging awl is generally based on several oldies in Al's collection (note, I did not turn the handle, but rather made it from a previously turned bit of wood).

Some sticks I had to cut out to finish the shoe to match the one I did several weeks ago (and would have been a lot easier with power tools )

Finally, sewing block (made by a friend with powe tools), new apron and new stirrup.


Marc

Marc,

You've been a busy bee with this toolmaking. The three Medieval ones look close to the pix, but how useful are bronze blades? Do you plan to have steel ones made eventually to use? The pegging haft and shoulder sticks look usable, though the shoulder stitcks could use some polishing on the working bits before I think they'll burnish. And, you need a ferrule on that pegging haft, else it's gonna split

I'll have to check, but I'm pretty certain that not all of your pegging awls have ferrules

The bronze blades are just fine - nice and sharp. If I'm not mistaken, bronze is actually a bit harder than steel (not some of the biggie fancy steels mind you), it's just more expensive. It certainly takes an edge better than, say, iron. I have had some long term plans for a forged iron version of the round knife at some point. Unfortunately this can get somewhat expensive since it's not likely to be something that I can do for myself.

As for the burnishing needing work, possibly - but the pictures really aren't that good. Think of them more as fin de ciecle paintings rather than photos

Marc

Marc,

I'll guarantee you all my old awls have ferrules.

If the bronze works, go for it, but they weren't making bronze blades that late were they? I mean for historical accuracy they ought to be steel or steeled iron, right?

Don't get me wrong, try the forms and see how the tools work, just don't be surprised when that pegging haft splits

For accuracy, you are entirely correct. But like I said, they were a gift

And if it splits, I'll make a new one. No biggie.

Marc

We are seeking a tool to remove hooks and eyelets. It looks somewhat like a pliers. Where can we purchase something of this nature? Help!

Gretchen Rothermel
Double-H Boot Co.
610-589-4586

Gretchen,

I got one recently and the contact information is at my shop while I am not. Initially I called Osborne Tool and they refered me to these folks, in New Jersey, I think. Anyway, I'll be back in the shop tomorrow and can reply with specifics, or you could call Osborne for that info.

Wish I could be more specific.

Good Luck, PK

Gretchen,
My name is Colin Barnsley from Sheffield, England. My company is Woodware Repititions Ltd and included in our range is an Eyelet Extractor. If you would like to contact me, I will send you a catalogue.

e-mail: cjbarnsley@hotmail.com

Colin,

Welcome!!! Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy.

You know we had a discussion several weeks back about inseaming and sewing awls. Can you tell me, and all of us,what you are carrying in that regard...curved sewing awls? What sizes? Inseaming awls? What sizes? And what is a minimum order? I had plum forgot you were going to carry awls and I may be in need of some in the very near future.

BTW...to all...Colin Barnsley has done his level best to pick up the pieces of the old George Barnsley company. He is going to carry as much of the same inventory as is physically possible (some of the tools will probably never be available again) So if you need tools or awls give him a shout. He's doing us a favour, gang, big time.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Gretchen,

I'm back in the shop and have just found the receipt for the eyelet removing tool. It was from:

Henry Westfal Co.
105 W. 30th St.
New York N.Y. 10001
(212) 563-5990

They carry CS Osborn Tools. Hope that helps.

PK

I HAVE WHAT I THINK IS A WESTERN WELT KNIFE. IT HAS A STAR ENGRAVED IN THE BLADE HOLDER AND THERE IS A CURVED BLADE AT THE OTHER END. WHERE CAN I GET A NEW BLADE IF NEEDED OR CAN THE OLD ONE BE SHARPENED? I AM A NEW MEMBER OF THE H.C.C.