The Crispin Colloquy

About the stitch marker, if you were going to have one, what is a good stitch length?

Also, I've seen some like DW's that make a long groove mark and others that just leave an impression of two dots, any thoughts?

I wonder about the shape of the shaft, in Kieran's photo it looks like the shaft is shaped, what's the reason for this?

Jon

Thanks guys I found some.
Tom

Jon,

Actually if the working end is a little wedge shaped, like a real stitch prick, it will do both depending on how you use it.

Both my tool and Kieran's are shaped in the shaft--they are curved to get in under the curve of the last and butt right up against the vamp. Al Saguto has suggested that a strip of leather be affixed to the side of the vamp and touching the welt before stitching. This creates a "stop" against which the awl can be rested before it is pushed through the welt and outsole. And that keeps your stitches in line.

As far as stitch length is concerned, I think most would agree that anywhere from 8 to 10spi is both doable and aesthetically pleasing. But as has often been mentioned here, a tighter stitch length was the probably the standard historically. 16spi comes to mind as being "middling work" according to Rees. I have tried 12 spi and I will admit to not being ready for it.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Jon:

10 SPI is pretty much standard for London bespoke work, though some lighter weight and/or dressier styles call for 12. Something like a heavy country shoe might use 8.

Lance

All,

After mentioning the "wedge" shape of the stitch prick, I got to looking at the above photos and, well, something just wasn't right about them. So I went out to the shop and took a look at my double stitch prick and realized that I had made two of them and that the photos were of the first...which I ultimately discarded.

So...the upshot is that I thought I would show you what I ended up with and what I am currently using. It is certainly shaped much more closely to the antique single stitch prick I have. That was one of my objectives. And the shank is longer too. Same handle:





Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

I am looking for a treadle for my Civil War period McKay sole stitcher. Has anyone got one hanging on a wall or out in the barn?

JesseLee

I would like to try gimping the edges of the quarters on my next shoe. Not having a machine to do this, can anyone recommend good sturdy pinking shears that are intended for this kind of work? All suggestions much appreciated.

I've looked high and low for pinking shears that have smaller teeth. No luck. I ended up getting a Singer 31-15 off eBay for $100 and equipping it with one of Dick Anderson's gimping blades.

31-15 is a sewing machine? Alas, unless I get rid of my flatbed Durkopp Adler, I have no room for another sewing machine...already got that one & Consew post machine crammed into a rather small room.

Nobody makes pinking shears with small teeth-- How weird. One would imagine that a range of sizes would be of assistance to fabric work as well as leather.

I did see a post in the archives by someone using an Olfa rotary cutter with a gimping wheel. That might serve--have to see the size of the teeth as compared to those on existing shears. I think big teeth would make cuts totally outsize on my small size shoes.

I've done it with big pinking. It works but there is something wrong about it. Toothsome shoes!

Athan:


My guess is that Dick could make a gimping attachment for your Adler -- I imagine you would have to provide him a sample needle and a measurement or two. The key is making the attachment short enough that it stays above the needle plate -- you put the leather to be gimped on top of a piece of veg-tan leather, or a cutting mat, or a plastic cutting board. The tool should just cut a little bit into this underlying layer. Of course, he also needs to know the diameter of the top of the needle, so the attachment will fit into the needle bar. And, the Adler must be adjustable to make a short enough stitch length so that the gimping tool will work. IMO, something on the order of 12 SPI makes a nice looking edge.

Anyway, consider giving Dick a call or dropping him an e-mail. http://thornappleriverboots.com/

Lance

Thanks, Lance--will check out the Adler & see if it can adjust to 12 spi or so. I'm not fond of that machine; even after different clutch pulley, etc., it generally wants to go a lot faster than I do. Maybe I *should* look for an old Singer--my husband sewed on them as a parachute rigger in the Navy during Vietnam era & he is familiar w/them...

All,

I am looking for a 6 inch sole splitter,i would like to be able to split insoles and stiffeners with it as well, Any suggestions regarding brand name,tips, advice or caution is welcome, thank you

Nasser

Nasser,

You can't go wrong with Landis or Champion. There are some European brand names out there but I think they are of such relatively new provenance that they will almost certainly cost more.

A splitter is something I would think you could purchase off of Ebay with little worry. As long as all the pieces are there and in place, it's a fairly easy machine to sharpen, adjust and maintain. many used machines will require a new blade however.

If you are looking for a newer or rebuilt machine I would suggest Pilgrim.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

DW,

Thank you,i looked up pilgrim and they have the Landis 6 inch rebuilt model 3o,Warkov has a picture of one in their catalog,but has no description,i will phone both and compare prices and so forth,when it comes to machines with blades in them,i prefer a new one or a good rebuilt,i have some experience with the 12 and 16 inch power driven splitters,but not the 6 inch hand cranked ones,good to hear they are easy to maintain.

Regards
Nasser

This splitter is currently on Ebay. The guy listing it is someone I've purchased from in the past. He runs a multi outlet shoe repair in VA and occasionally buys up old shoe factories, so he knows what these machines are supposed to do as opposed to someone cleaning out a relative's estate. He also has ins for shipping which is a consideration on a cast iron heavy item. Check out
180383481468 on Ebay. I have no interest or gain, just passing along information.
Georgene

Georgene,

I saw that splitter myself,but somehow i do not like to buy used machines on eBay,without seeing them closely and not having the chance of returning the item if it is not up to operating standards makes it risky,with Warkov or Pilgrim i might have a better chance.

Thank you
Nasser

Nasser,
I have bought a splitter from Pilgrim, as well as several other machines. I have always been happy with their quality and the professionalism of their rebuilds (everything I have bought from them has been used, rebuilt).
Cheers, J.

Nasser,

Give Blaze Knable a call too. I've bought machinery from him, used (restored) and as-found (un-restored). He's closer to Toronto so maybe less chance of things getting broken in shipping, or you could drive down and pick it up. http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/contact-us.html

Al,J,

Thanks to both of you,i have been trying to speak to pilgrim this morning,but the gentleman is on a long distance conversation,i will try them again a little later.

Al, I looked up "shoe system plus" and they have a rebuilt Landis 30 splitter for $895.00 i will call them.
I called warkov and they said they don't carry any splitters at present.

Regards
Nasser

I just found a great source for longer thin dress laces. Years back I used to order them as Mercerized or Dress Laces.

For this one pair of lace up boots I needed 84" brown.

Doing a search for 84" brown dress laces I found an outfit called "Punk Your Chucks", as in Chuck Taylor sneakers. They are 213mm thin. And I was able to order just the one pair for less that $7.00.
(I've no connection to the co...yada yada)

Just tought you might like to know.

Paul

I have just received some samples from A.A. Crack in Northhampton. This is the their top of the line calf for making bespoke shoes.

It is a very firm chrome tanned calf, not struck through, with a beautiful finish. It would gimp and brogue beautifully. Probably about 3 ounce.

I am wondering if anyone is up for a buyer's consortium to purchase and split several hides of different colours. It is expensive leather and would be more expensive with shipping and customs. So fair warning. But I have not seen anything like this on this side of the pond.

PM me if you are interested...

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

PS...Crack also offers a couple of colours of Scotch grain.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

American Straight Needle hooks and awls can be purchased from McPherson's in Seattle...1.800.343.9949

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

To All,

I am looking for a spirit Lamp for heating irons, If anyone has a duplicate to sell or knows where i might purchase one,please let me know.Thanks in advance.
nasser.vies@gmail.com