The Crispin Colloquy

You're welcome. Good luck on the project.

All,

Does anybody have a lead on a complete set of anvils (for eyelets as well as hooks) and dies for the bench-mounted, lever-action, "Universal Eyelet Setter", Pat. 1905 ? I got a new-made set from Ohio Travel Bag back in '99, but they no longer have these. Trying to help a friend get her "Universal" up and running, and after searching in vain, it looks like it might require just buying a whole new eyelet setter from C. S. Osborne that has a complete set of fittings.

Al,

My setter and it's pieces are made by F.H SMITH MFG.CO., they are in (were) 525 Fullerton Ave., Addison, Ill. 60101 i think they are still in business.I personally use a hand setter(punch) for the eyelets but for hooks dies are necessary. www.nationalshoe.com in Toronto carries similar setters and dies.

Regards
Nasser

RIck,

Thanks for the info. Specifically- items like wooden pegs, hirshkleber, etc.

When I was in Seattle, about a year ago, I got some Hirshkleber from Mac Phersons Leather Company. They had the container I bought plus a really big one (maybe 1 gallon) that they wanted to sell me for a good price. You might need to convince them that they actually have it. It was covered with dust on the bottom shelf, in the glue section.

In lieu of that, I believe a product called "Yes! Glue", which is readily available at craft stores, is pretty much the same thing.

I think O. Baltor has pegs.

Thanks!

I am looking for a source that will sell a pediograph foot imprinter.Thanks


Ed

Ed,

I got mine from Euro International... I can't remember the website- it comes up close to first if you Google it- order by phone, as you cannot order through the website last I noticed. Be aware that you can expect sales calls after the first time, though.

Erick

Ed,

You can always make one a la Carl Lichte:

Make a frame out of window screen aluminum framing, spread 1/32" thick neoprene (black) rubber membrane across, and fasten it all around with press-in "spline". You can try latex "dental dam" sheet rubber, too, but this doesn't hold up as well as neoprene. The press-in rubber spline stuff holds all secure, but can easily be changed out when your rubber membrane gives up the ghost. The thickness of the framing holds the (inked) rubber up off the paper, then the weight of the foot presses it down as wanted. My pedograph lives in a manila legal folder for transport, but you could make a fancy leather cover if you liked.

The membrane can also be made from the silcone rubber baking pan liners. Could get these from your local gourmet shop or online from Williams Sonoma or Sur La Table. The Michaels near me has a big section of bakewear and has the silicone sheets for around $12

Hello hello,

I was wondering what American Makers use to "laminate", or "harden" their heels, after they are built, but before they are waxed? Also, burnishing ink- thoughts, brands, advice? Thanks in advance.

Recently I got some tools from a local maker (Hungary).


Here they are. The knives are just perfect I must say. Cut everything like butter, most probably because of the hardness - 56 rockwell.

Hi all. I am wondering how one should best identify their work. We have sent out too many pairs of boots and shoes without any kind of makers mark.

The choices, as far as I can see, are:

-hot foil stamp on sockliner
-woven label sewn to sockliner
-hand stamp struck into leather sole

The problem with the last choice is that we use vibram about 80% of the time.

Some quality google time reveals that none of the choices are without their compromises and expenses.

It would be great to hear from others about their choices and their why's.

Thanks

Sean

Sean,
I like the brand I use inside my boots on the lining leather. I purchased it at www.brandingirons.com. It is a machined brass head mounted to an industrial soldering iron body, which plugs into box that can vary the temperature. Very simple and distinctive.
Cheers, J.

Sean, Sown-in labels are classy, but don't use enough to be worthwhile. Simple rubber permanent ink stamp on the liner will work. Does not smear if you let it dry before you mess with it. Normally stamp before side seaming. Practice a little to get the right pressure.

Sean, I use my makers stamp, for saddles, on the heel pad. I use veg tan scrap and split it down to 3 oz or less, wet it, then stamp it. Shane

There are companies out there that will embroider labels...and in relatively small (1000?) lots. Not one of those "home sewing' type labels but really professional--you choose the colours and even the typeface. The kind of thing Florshiem always had in the little lozenge cut out of the lining. In fact, That's the way I do mine even now, although I had to commission a special punch to cut out the lozenge.

I had some labels made some years ago...I thought, at the time, I would never use them all. I think I am down to my last hundred by now. You'd be surprise how fast they go especially if you consider that you use two at a time.

And again, the thing is that little touches like that--a professional looking, woven-not-printed label--can elevate your work to another level entirely. So it actually is a good investment, even if you never use them all.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Does any one know where to get the inserts for golf spikes? I have been told I need the "small screw in" type.
Thanks Tom

Where do I get one of these. In case the picture isn't clear, its a stitch marker for "English Sewn". Does anyone have one they want to part with/Does anyone make them? I thought maybe a machine shop could make one. Suggestions?

Tom:

I don't know where to order them, but I know that a fellow named Tim Noonan (Noonan Shoes, Warren RI) has/had a huge box full of them; I'm sure he's never going to use them, so perhaps he will sell you some. (If so, let me know as I might want some as well.)

Kieran:

That picture isn't very helpful.... Perhaps a side-shot would be better.

I know the English makers I've seen actually use a fudge wheel to mark out the welt before sewing (as well as after to put the fudge marks in the welt). You probably know that fudge wheels come with diffent numbers of stitches per inch, so you want to get the right size. E-bay is probably your best bet.

If what you're looking for is a single stitch prick, you can order one from Woodware Repetitions/Colin Barnsley -- I got one recently via Edwin Hale (do a search of this board for his phone number). However, a single stitch prick is isn't useful for marking out stitches before sewing.

If you want what is a double stitch prick/marker, then again you'll want to specify the SPI which you want, since the space between the two 'teeth' would determine your stitch length.

Lance

lance,

Is a double stitch prick available from Woodware?

I've never really seen a double although I have a beautiful old single.

I made a double, set for ten spi, out of scrap (a bolt) and a turned wooden handle. But it is difficult to get ten spi exactly...mine might be 10.2spi.

Here's two photos...it works admirably as you can see.



Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

DW:

I don't know about the double prick from Colin; they made me a single stitch prick, and Colin and I corresponded concerning a double, but more along the lines of me telling him about the need for specific SPI's for a double. I imagine they could make one, but don't think they have any in stock or even have a sample to use for copying purposes.

I use the fudge wheel, though at some point I'll try the single prick to finish a welt.

Yours looks good; how did you hollow out the metal to create the concavity?

Lance

Tom,

Golf spikes and wrenches are available from National Shoe in Canada.

If you want help finding contact info for them let me know.

Jon Gray

Yeah. Sorry about the picture... only one I've got, but it's exactly what DW posted. Perhaps he will share how to make one.

Lance, Kieran,

Hey it's no big deal. What mine is (and again, I've never seen an "official" double stitch prick) is simply two single stitch pricks side by side with a nice little hollow in-between.

I used jeweler's files to cut and shape the whole thing and then a bit of emery paper to smooth everything out and "dull" the "blades." Finally, I used a little home-made, leather buffing wheel mounted on a Dremel tool to polish. White tripoli or the dark grey steel cutting rouge works for the buffing.

I don't think my handle is a long or as large around as Keiran's (although it is Arkansas Persimmon) and frankly, I would prefer it longer and thicker. I don't think my metal is as long as Kieran's either, but, in this case, I don't think I would want it to be.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Tom
Golf Spikes try Ruby Leather Co.Inc in Milwaukee.WI 1.800.866.7829.
good suppliers for just about any supplies you might need.