Lasting

[athan_chilton]

Marcell, you make this look SO EASY!! I greatly appreciate seeing these close-up pictures though I have not tried to last this way as yet. Am I correct in thinking you put the edge of your lining over the edge of the toe puff on the sides of the last, but only on the side? And why do you leave the 5mm on the top edge of the puff unglued? (sorry, lots of beginner questions!)

[marcell]

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[marcell]

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[marcell]

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[marcell]

Oh, I almost forgot the most important thing: you have to pull the thread gently outside, and hammer the stitch in the same time, instead of pulling hard - that will make your stitch tight.

Viszlát!

[dw]

Marcel,

Again, thank you. You've really outdone yourself here. To some extent, a photo essay of this kind, is even better than a video essay. Because the viewer can study each photo and because they are close-ups a lot can be seen and learned that would be missed in videos.

Your heelseat stitching is very interesting. I think I see how it's done...not quite like Hasluck.

But I'm not sure where that thread is coming from. Is it a separate thread from what was used around the forepart?

What kind of awl do you use to make such short, deep holes from the insole to the heelseat?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

(Message edited by dw on June 08, 2009)

[amuckart]

Marcel,

Thank you for this. The value of having these techniques so clearly illustrated, and in a place where anyone can come and learn from them is enormous.

[dearbone]

Marcell,

Thank you, i enjoyed both tutorials,but i especially like the heel seat sewing which is a little different than i do it,i think i got it and i will try it sometime,it looks like it might be an improvement on Hasluck technique, How thick is the insole you use? Good show.

Nasser

[dw]

Marcel,

I didn't understand one comment...do you re-last the toe while the Hirschkleber is still wet?

If not, why not? what is the advantage to having the vamp leather loose over the toe puff?

We need you to answer...you can't leave us guessing!

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[dearbone]

DW,

I have recently being making the deep,short insole holes using my German awl,i think you might have one,but if you need to see it,i will post a picture,the side holes are easily done with the sewing awl,but the center needs a steep awl to make those short exits,i like to see what kind of awl Marcell is using to sew the heel seat.

Nasser

[fishball]

Marcell,

Very nice tutorial!
Did you got my email few days ago?

Alexander

[jon_g]

Marcell, you should know that your tutorial was of great interest around here, I have been studying it since it was first posted. Thanks for part two. So much to learn.

Jon

[dw]

Nasser,

Well, yes, I would like to see a photo. I have German awls, as well as English awls in three different "flavours"--different radius profiles. But I don't have one that can make that deep, short radius turn. What he's using must be curved like the outside of a penny, or even tighter.

From what I see the awl enters the quarter about 5mm from the edge, runs perpendicular to the edge of the quarter, goes through the quarter, the heel stiffener and lining, enters the insole and emerges virtually at the edge of the quarter. There can't be more than a rough centimeter of lateral travel of the awl point. That's remarkable to me.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[dearbone]

DW,

The German awl is the one on the right,which i have been using recently to make shorter entry and exit when heel seat sewing,i have no idea what kind of awl the makers of the past used to do this work,having said that i found the German awl works a little better than the welt sewing awl for heel seat sewing.Marcell may tell us more about the kind awl he uses.

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Nasser

[dw]

Nasser,

Yeah, looks just like my German awl. But whether it's size related or not, I don't think I could make such short deep curves as Marcel has made with my German awl.

Thanks for posting the photo...it helps more than just me.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[paul]

Yes, DW it helps me too.
And I agree, I couldn't get my German awl to make such a short emergence either.

I was noticing the look of a slit from the awl on the quarter in the first few pictures. My first thought was an outsole stitching awl.

Does the awl look something like that Marcell?

What I noticed about this stitch was the non-working thread that lays along the edge of the counter at the insole. Looks like it would help to seal this seam.

Marcell, I want to join in the praise and thanks for such a great presentation.

Paul

[dw]

Paul, Nasser,

Well now we're all speculating and what we really need is for Marcel to jump back in and lift us from our misery.

That said, and upon further study of the photos, I think the almost ad hoc channel that Marcel has cut along the edge of the quarter might make a difference. I didn't see it before but it would help with the angle of the awl and where it emerged from the insole. Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree but that's my theory ...for now.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[mac]

Marcel,
Great tutorial. I'd imagine there are a lot more people lurking in the background looking at this thread than you might think!
Thanks again for the post. The close ups are really helpful.
Sean

[big_larry]

Marcel,

Please add my thanx for that great presentation and valuable information!!

Larry Peterson

[marcell]

I promise: I will make a photo about the awls. I can tell you - I use a simple awl, but with a stronger curve. A photo will come.

The insole preparation:

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So, anyone interested to see some more? I will post soon. Should I post them here, or some other topic in HCC?

[dw]

Marcel,

We are all interested...even the ones who but sit and lurk.

As far as where to post more, think about the reader--the reader a month from now, or a year from now. Where would they best find the tutorial? If the rest is building on what you've already posted...even if it's not entirely true to the topic "lasting"...nevermind, keep it here. It's like a conversation...sometimes where you start is not necessarily where you go or end up but if it all kind of follows on, then go for it.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[ch_rasmussen]

Marcell,
Even though I am new at this I find your tutorial extremely helpful in trying to get a handle on the whole picture. Seeing your methods depicted in such clear and excellent photographs is valuable not just for the specific job at hand but also to see such things as the needle you are using, the orientation of the work, placement of the nails, in short, everything that you probably don't think about but nevertheless is a gold mine to people like me.
I look forward to your next post and thank you for taking the time to do this.

Best Regards, Craig

[jon_g]

Marcell, you should have your own thread to post on. DW is right, how will we most easily find these in the future. Thanks again, great pictures, great inspiration.
Jon

[marcell]

So this is the next tutorial about finishing the heel welting. This method is the same for pegged shoes - just you make this all around the edge.

I used 3,5 mm long pegs. Next steps are the same, what I posted in "making a fiddleback" or something like this.

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[marcell]

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