The Crispin Colloquy

DW,
That's an excellent idea...thanks!

I want my top edges that cover the zipper teeth to be folded under rather than leaving a raw edge. So instead of cutting the edges as if they'll come together edge to edge, I'm going to add a margin that I'll fold under. I'll end up with the same result but the edges won't be unfinished.

When you put a zipper into fabric, you achieve this by basting (long stitches) the pieces together exactly on the seam, turning the seam allowance back, sewing in the zipper and then taking out the basting thread. This would work great on the boots except for the little holes it would leave on the folded edge.

That method centers the zipper under the two sides. There's also a method of putting in a zipper so that one side covers the exposed zipper and the other side is sewn right alongside the teeth. I may try it instead. I've always preferred that type of intallation for zippers. With the first way, if the edges open up a little it exposes the whole zipper. The second tends to lay flatter.

Lisa

Lonnie,

Tim Skryme has a darned good book on shoemaking. I have my apprentices study it.

JesseLee

Robert,
As to wood stoves et al. Our little shop had a potbellies stove when I was there. John would always have a pot of water boiling so as to balance the heat with moisture.. 20 years later my cabin had a full sized wood stove and it got HOT! We always had water boiling. Remember these give off harsh heat and drying boots need only be in the same room, never too close to the stove..

JesseLee

Tanning leather for oneself was an inquiry awhile back. Here is a link to a book that covers the subject. I've bought from this vendor before and am on her alert list which is how I know about this offering. No affiliation, just passing on the info. Georgene

Stock Number: 579789 10.00 GB pounds
Author: Rofe, G.M.
TANNING AND CURING PROCESSES
Published by: G.M. Rofe
Edition: 1995
Book condition: Very Good
Dustwrapper condition: Card wrap
Green card wraps. Suitable for home use for any animal skins.

Please click on link for photo: http://www.stellabooks.com/stockimages_sorted/579/579789.JPG

So Georgene,

Are you going to put in a drive way full of tanning supplies?

I understand your neighbors and friends are curious.

Paul

Georgene,

I am not sure if this is the right place to post this. Someone recently gave me a fresh deer skin. I am trying to make soft buckskin. I don't know if I am doing it right but its a first try. I removed the fat and meat and rubbed it full of salt. After a few days I soaked it for about a week in slaked lime until most of the hair came off without too much effort. Although it was a big job. Now the hide is being stretched and after I sand off the remaining bits of membrane I plan to soak it in oak bark liquor for many many weeks.

Geri

edited to remove over-size photos...Admin

(Message edited by admin on February 14, 2009)

Whoops Sorry about the big pics. Geri

Not laying in tanning supplies, just passing on info about the tanning booklet. Of course I am guilty of buying pallets of stuff in the past and always am in peril with my husband over the "shoe @#%!" as he calls it.
Realize my previous link only led to the picture of the tanning book. To go to the actual site, try this: http://www.stellabooks.com

Thanks for posting the tanning in process Geraldine.
It validates my memory that someone was looking for the info. Can't wait to see the shoes you make from the skin.
Georgene

Hello all. I'm having a problem with my recently acquired post sewing machine- I`ve broken the needle and can`t locate the missing tip. I fear that it`s gone down into the post, amongst unseen gears, and will offer grief in the immediate future. Never having used one of these machines before, I don`t know how much concern to give to this situation. I mean, is this a fairly common occurrence, is the bottom of the post a grave yard for dead needle tips, or am in danger of doing serious damage to my machine. I`d appreciate the views of more experienced hands. Thanks, Ron- in icy Halifax.

Ron,

I hate it when that happens.

I generally pop the needle plate and pull the bobbin case...sometimes the shuttle, as well...and if I see it I get a tweezers and extract it. If I don't see it, I don't worry about it. Most of these machines were engineered to take such accidents into account. The tip will probably fall ou the bottom of the post at some point.

That said, if you don't find anything then once you've got the shuttle and bobbin case and needle plate back in place, run it by hand for an inch or so...slowly...feeling for any "catches" or problems.

I doubt it's any worry at all.

Someone else may jump in here and relate a tale of woe but I've never heard any and never experienced any either.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

DW. Thanks for the assurance. I followed you advice- proceeded with caution- all is well. I guess it went to the same place socks go in the dryer.Now back to the grindstone. Ron

Hi, again, everyone,

I had a couple questions. I can not seem to find any methods for making oxfords. I have done many exhausting searches on this site and google and have come up with nothing. Can anyone help me?

Regards,
Jordan

Jordan,

If you are looking for pattern design, you can try out my pattern generator at http://www.romangoshoes.com/shoeweb/home.do

Select styles->Men's Oxford... ->generate

I got the Koleff and Skyrme books, and both contain patterns for Oxfords. Pattern in this case means the adjustments to a base pattern from which an Oxford shoe upper can be developed. The Koleff book works from measurements taken from the foot, while the Skyrme pattern is developed from the last. These aren't patterns in the sense of a book with plans. But it amounts to the same end result at a higher level.

Jordan:

I can recommend the Pattern Cutters Handbook, available from Frank Jones at Noble Footwear; it gives detailed instructions for making a variety of patterns, including oxfords.

Also, once you get a general approach, you can always ask here for people's own particular methods.

Lance

Jordan,

One of the big problems...and one of the main reasons the Crispin Colloquy exists...is that there is almost no book or source that details how to make a shoe from start to finish. Most of them are pattern books...which is fine as far as it goes. But the philosophy seems to have been that what was missing in the book would be supplemented by a master...for whom one was presumably working or apprenticed to.

Koleff and Sharpe (The Pattern Cutter's Handbook) are almost exclusively focused on patterning.

Tim Skyrme's book is pretty good and probably the best basic introduction written in recent times. It seems to be relatively comprehensive in that it deals with everything from tools to assembly methods.

Boots and Shoes, edited by F.Y. Golding (who was, for over 38 years, the principle of the Cordwainers' Technical College in London, England), is an eight volume compilation of "essays" written by some of the most respected shoemakers of the late 19th and early 20th century. Complete with illustrations, charts, tables, diagrams, patterns and photos. It is probably the most comprehensive archive of knowledge and techniques ever attempted. There is still an assumption of further guidance, in my opinion. But there is so much information there it could be said that it is, effectively, an earlier version of the Crispin Colloquy...or at least the same spirit motivates it.

Two of Golding's volumes...those deemed to be most relevant to the techniques of bespoke shoe and bootmaking...have been digitalized and are available for free download at the HCC Homepage. And a third is only weeks (months?) away from being added.

Again, the Crispin Colloquy itself may be the most useful source of information ever created. Ask a question and you draw upon expertise that spans decades and continents. There are members here who have made shoes...credible shoes...from information gleaned, or received, from the forum alone. That's a tribute to the generosity of the HCC community, if nothing else.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

"There are members here who have made shoes...credible shoes...from information gleaned, or received, from the forum alone"

Jordan,

That is as true a statement as any.These folks gave me knowledge worth a King's ransome Queen's to.I was in the dark until I stumbled in to the doors of this temple.So sit back and experience a ride for life.Good luck on your Journey.

Ed

Jordan Hooker

Again, welcome to the Colloquy.

I would like to express my support and thanks to all the contributors who make the Crispin Colloquy so special. In my opinion this is a unique community in the boot/shoemaking world.

To come down from the clouds, “Pattern Cutting - step by step patterns for footwear” is the replacement for Pattern Cutter’s Handbook, which is now out of print. The Oxford chapter has 27 diagrams.

Send me a private email if you would like further details.

Frank Jones - HCC Member
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com

My humble observation:

I use The Pattern Makers Handbook, notes from my basic course in "boot school" and I have even torn a few vintage boots appart. After a while, the art of drafting the last and exact positioning becomes a little more matter of choice. The placement of the upper on the vamp on a pair of "Packers" can vary as much as an inch, depending on the style and look you want. I am refering to the lacing flap being higher or further down on the arch area. The amount of curvature on the back part from the heel to the calf can vary from no curve at all to a profound curve.

After a while (30 some odd pair) the addition for a rolled edge or a raw edge just seems to be automatic and to change from a one half to a full size gets easier and easier. I have gotten into the habbit, or is it habit?, of cutting the linings a bit oversize and trimming them after sttching. Same with the vamp. I would much rather add an inch to my vamp pattern and trim it later than to be 1/8th short.

Learning to make a proper pattern is probably the best way to keep quality control. I still envey the neat and clean product that my (betters) peers produce. The ladder to excellence seems to be a never ending journey.

In conclusion, all the Indians in South America walk in a straight line, at least the one I saw did.

Respectfully,
Larry Peterson - HCC Member

Jordan
Welcome from the frozen North.
I think I read in the Registry that you all ready make footwear? What style and can you show us a pic?
As the other formanites have given you some good and rare reading ie. Sharpe and Golding, haven't seen Mr Scymes book, but believe me this was a Heck of a lot more material I had when I started. Pattern making was this weird, secret knowledge that only a few rare people could do.
As I worked as a prosthetic/orthotic tech in the late 70's I had to draw on my skills I learned in industrial arts on sheet metal, and carpentery. I was molding leather sockets and making prostheic feet from raw materials Basicely last making. Then came the premade feet form companies such as Otto Bock in Germany.


Move forward a few years. Go to some mall and go look at all the shoes. They are all a variation of on old style with different trimmings, overly, quarter to vamp motion, back strap or not turned edges/raw edges, eyelets/hooks/bling, gimping brouging, patent leather to oil tan and any thing in between.

So if you want you can look back in the posts on my packing tape method of pattern making. May have to make a Youtube production!.. You can draw any thing you want, follow some basic guidelines, and you can make what you want.

Welcome to the weird, secret world of pattern making.

V'once in no way out!

I have a 31K17 flat bed roller foot,singer machine, which i gave away for lack of space,but can take back, but here is my question, Will i be able to place Dick's gimping tool on it? or do i need 31-15?
Your advice is appreciated.

Nasser

Nasser,

Any 31 class Singer will work...yours included. The main requirements are that the machine is bottom feed only with a non-indexed stitch length adjustment of zero to 4spi(?) (or there abouts) and an "on edge" roller foot.

And of course a needle bar that will accommodate Dick's Gimping needle.

I'm sure that there are other machines that would work and, of course, Dick could probably be persuaded to alter the dimensions of the shank of the Gimping needle as well. But there is a reason the 31 class machine is preferred--it not only is relatively common among shoe/bootmakers, it is commonly kitted up as described above.

I have been doing a lot of gimping and broguing this past week...on a 31-17 (or maybe it's a 31-19)...and I sure do appreciate Dick's work.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

(Message edited by dw on February 15, 2009)

DW,

Thanks,I am so happy to hear that, it saves me the time looking for another machine, i will bring it home soon.

Nasser

I have an American brand "5 in 1" and I'm trying to understand how to adjust the skiver part (red arrow).


Seems that ...

eccentric A and screw B control the cant and height of the blade interactively.

E controls the pressure.

C controls how far forward the blade is.

D is a lock screw

Are these suppositions correct? Does anyone have some insight on what sequence of operations to use to get it into adjustment?