The Crispin Colloquy

Tom,
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I assume you mount the rib to your margin and then last the upper
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Right! The sample I posted some days ago will give you an hint about the distance I have from the rib to the edge of the insole.

In the ortopeadic trade some of the makers sewed the rib on with an patcher, they didn't trust the cement only. But then of course the insoles was just about 6-7 iron

JEM

Short of tallowing up some veg tan the way you do it I have not found any thing yet. I have had some luck with W&C's russet harness but still have to rough up the back pretty well to get barge to stick. What I have been doing lately is to glue heavily as I last then when done I stick the shoe in a sole press still wet. After about 24 hrs to dry it holds well enough to carry on. I think one of the reasons the harness leather holds up is the rolling they do to it which compress it more then saddle skirting or plain veg tan.
Tmattimore

Janne I finally got the pictures up. That is the stuff.I looked at it once at a trade show about 10 years ago but the rep wanted to sell me the whole nine yards and an inseaming machine so I passed. I may see if I can get a couple of yards and make myself a pair of shop shoes to see how it holds up.
Tmattimore

Tom,
If you send me a private mail with your address I will send you enough of it for a pair or two.
Janne

Here's something that keeps the shop a little neater----a plastic board. I do most of my sloppy rubber cementing on. After the glue has dried, just rub it with your fingers and it rolls right off the board. I usually hold it over a big trash can so the rubber particles don't fall on the floor. With newspaper, you have to be careful of the ink. The next best medium, in my opinion, is old magazines. But who wants a bunch of magazines lying around?

Happy gluing!

My "cran" here is using an old phone book, sans cover, to smear cement on. When done, rip out that page and throw it away--fresh surface for the next job.

Jake,

Well that's the kind of plastic that covers my whole workbench and that I cut on. My piece is too big to hold over the trash can. But you're right, the rubber cement, even all purpose cement, rolls right off.

As for me, I just use the brown paper that leather comes rolled up in. It's free, it's usually big enough to layout a full wellington blocker or a set of long sidewelts. But I have to admit, it's not easily dealt with. You have to store it in a corner or under on a long shelf...or throw it away. And the cement doesn't come off at all..so you have to deal with it if you want to use the brown paper again.

Your solution seems a good one.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Here's a tip I got from Carl Chappell this last Roundup in Wichita Falls.

Take your crimping board and create a bevel or chamfer on the bottom edge. I did mine at the finisher. Also, he told me the rougher the better. You don't want the bevel real smooth, because what it does is help hold your leather while you grab a nail and hammer.


It worked pretty darn good for me. It's something you need to think about, because it's definitely going to alter your crimping board forever.

Thanks goes to my wife Pam for "holding" things while I took the pictures. Thanks Darling!

Question,in order to place stitching marks around a welt for hand stiching a sole on is there a certain tool needed or can a stitch maker surfice.If a tool can someone post a pic.Thanks

Ed

Edward,

The ideal spacing for stitches on the welt is 3 spi. I guess a feller could use a #6 stitch wheel and hole every other mark. Or he/she could use wing dividers. But I've never seen anyone use a "tool" for spacing their awl holes. They/I just eyeball it.

I know you didn't want to hear that, but maybe someone else will chime in here with some additional information.

Hope it helps.

Jake
Yep they make a tool. Well not really. I guess you missed the discussion Wild Bill and I had about this tool.
The tool looks like a 2 inch windmill with a handle yet the blades are straight not angled.
Wild Bill had these tools and he did not know what they were originally used for yet they kept selling.
Well Carl Chappell bought the tool several years ago because it looked cool and in showing a student or something like that figured out it made a good spacer for laying out the awl holes.

Jake, Gary, Ed,

I got the impression from reading Ed's post (correct me if I'm wrong) that he was interested in a tool for marking stitch length *on* the welt. for stitching the outsole on. Someone suggested a while back (may have been Al) that a "fudge wheel" could be used for this purpose.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Edward,

If you meant spacing the "stitching" holes for stitching the outsole to the welt; if you're using the square awl then yes, as DW mentioned a fudge wheel can be used prior to stitching [and of course afterward to neaten up the stitches too]. But if you're using a "sewing" awl [oval holes] for sole-stitching, then traditionally it's by-eye, and not so closely spaced.

The 3/" spacing Jake mentioned above I think is for sewing, or inseaming [attaching the welt to the shoe proper], that's by-eye, and 4 holes per inch--1/4" spacing"--gives you the 3 stitches per inch there. Not hard to do with practice. I wouldn't start using any wheels for spacing, as they're a crutch. You need to develop your eye/hand to do this without them IMO.

It gets confusing I know, but that's why we have the terms "sewing" versus "stitching" to clarify these two different seams/operations

Edward,

Oh.....I see now. So sorry for the confusion.

Have to say I was watching the PBR Finals last night with my laptop in my lap. Not a good combination for successful/accurate correspondence.

I apologize! Thanks for the help Fellers.

I was talking about stiching the out sole on to the welt for completion of the shoe.I was or have used a diamond shaped awl blade to my first pair I was unaware of a square awl.Now could someone show a sample of a square awl and fudge wheel in play.I remember a pic of a hand sewn boot and a nice job that was.Beings that the stitches were so neat I figured there was a special tool.

Ed

Ed,

I may be mistaken...there are so many good photos on the Forum...but I think the shot you are referring to is one of mine. It can be found here:

CLICK HERE--SAT., NOVEMBER 23, 2002

With regard to the tools you ask about--the square awl and the fudge wheel--the following photos should help:





Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

DW,thanks that's just the picture I was referring to, I have the fudge wheel where can I purchase the square awl blade.The diamond one did not do the job I was counting on.Thanks again.

Ed

Ed,

Man! That's a good question. I know that there are several outfits that still sell square awls...although the size selection is limited and the price is usually exhorbitant. If I recall correctly, Colonial Needle, www.colonialneedle.com/tools.htm may carry square awls but don't quote me on that. Otherwise you just have to keep your eyes open at shows where folks are selling old tools and such. Come to think of it you might track down Wild Bill Julian...sorry I don't have his contact info...he sells all kinds of stuff like that.

Good luck.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Anybody with free advise

I was digging around in my master’s basement and found a bucket of old tools. They need a loving hand but might work afterwards. I’ve been told diesel oil might be good to soak them in. Has anybody done that before? Any suggestions? What about the wooden handles?

CW

If you use Diesel take the handles off first. I bought some steel rule dies with wood backing that had been cleaned with fuel and 11 years later they still stink.
Tmattimore

Anyone?

Well gang.....has anybody seen something like this before? A hole in the end of a sewing awl?

Jake,

You're the proud owner of an awl blade for hand-stitching rubber soles. The thread feeds down the groove as you pierce the welt and sole, so you can do a lock-stitch al la a machine.

Enjoy!

Big Al,

You da Man! I figured you had the answer. Appreciate the information.

In your opinion, does this weaken the awl? I bought some awls from Barnsley & Sons for inseaming. This is the third time ordering from them. Their example of this 3" awl that was sent to me didn't have the hole. I'm not so sure I'm pleased with the order.

Comments?

Jake,

It sure would weaken the blade having that groove down its length, but it's the only way you'll stitch rubber soles by-hand. Did that rubber sole-stitching blade come with an order of common 3" sewing/inseaming blades? Sounds like a wrong one got in there.

Al,

I don't know if you can tell or not, but there ain't no groove on these awls.

Did that rubber sole-stitching blade come with an order of common 3" sewing/inseaming blades?

No...all I ordered was the common 3" sewing/inseaming awls (#7030).
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Just returned from looking at the "packing" invoice. It says, "sewing awls with eye...nearest available, special price." I betcha they substituted these for the regular ones.

Well, I've got a hundred of them now.