The Crispin Colloquy

DW, Bruce

Thanks for heads-up. DW's glue pot looks like it works like the old chicken waterer, which would minimize the surface of the glue (OK, adhesive, cement) exposed to the air for evaporation plus a constant level. My production is such that the glue pot is not opened every day, sometimes not for weeks (There are fish to catch.) Evaporation of the solvent has been a problem, which can be added back. Thought the screw top would provide a better seal than a snap-on. The quart cans work pretty good. Will make sure the brush is tight and put some wax on the threads to minimize sticking but suspect the solvent fumes will disolve the wax. I will try it for a while to see how it works and then will probably end up following your advice.

Chuck

Hey guys,
I use the glue boys and find them excellent.
there's another type which is like a pump oil can with a brush on the end of the spout, these are ok but the brush needs to always have its cover on when not being used, and these tend to get lost or split.
Weaver's also have the square pot with the cone shaped top on it, but I've never used one of these.

Go for the glue boy, I say.

More power to y'awl.
Tomo.

Hey All,

I'm looking at using a zipper in a boot for the first time and I don't really know what type to use. I'm guessing that nylon might be good and after a little reading on the web it seems like a #5 zipper would work.

Can anyone make a suggestion based on their experiences?

Regards, Tom Mickel

Hi Tom,
They use zips in riding boots quite often and they do crap out after a while, usually around the ankle area where the zip flexes.

The zips I use are YKK 5 coil. the coil zips are the best for this job and work and last longer than either the metal (brass or aluminium) or the Vislon zips which are the nylon ones with the moulded chunky teeth. Number 9 or 10 are just too big (IMHO) and number 3 is too light.
You'll also want to order 'closed end' too as open ended are the ones used on jackets etc.

More power to y'awl
Tomo.

I came across this supplier for custom zippers and thought they sounded interesting. I haven't used them yet but they are the only custom small order place I have found. FWIW, Lyle
http://www.zippersource.com/

Just a cautionary note that boot zippers are different than regular or dressmaking zippers. The stops are put on "backwards" so they do not scratch legs or snag stockings. Need to verify that if you are ordering by mail.

Regards,
Georgene

Tom, Lyle, Georgene,

Thanks for the info. The zipper supplier also suggested #5 coil so I ordered a few to look at. I also ordered some stops and a stop insertion tool so I'll try that too and see if I can put some in backwards.

I'm still not too sure about nylon vs. metal so I'll just have to look at them and decide. We have only sand here (FL) not really soil and it's really tough on moving parts of any kind.

Regards, Tom Mickel

DW,

I'm looking too buy french edgers from Ron's Tools. I can only afford two of them at this time. Which two sizes do you recommend getting for someone just starting out? Thanks in advance, Joel

Joel,

Hard to make a recommendation when I don't know what you want to do with them. But I use a #1 for skiving the edges of inlays and overlays. So, for me that would be a must.

Now, Ron's French edgers increase one-sixteenth of an inch per size...so a #1 is one-sixteenth between the guards and a #4 is one-quarter inch, and a size #7 is seven-sixteenths.

Anything from a #4 to a #7 or 8 might be a pretty good all-round tool.

I have a complete set, I use most of the sizes from #1 to #6 and then a few of the ones at the top end (I don't know what they would be off the top of my head).

That's the best I can do...hope it helps....

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Joel,

FWIW, Ron's has at least a #1 and #2 Frommer grind edger, which I would recommend over their standard. Thinner sides,etc. I have a #2 used for the same purposes as DW.

Chuck

I am in need of contact information on a company by the name of "Apex Foot Products" they were out of the New Jersery area.Thanks,and any help will be appreciated.They deal in mainly Orthopedic supplies.

Ed

Ed,

They changed their name to Aetrex still in Jersey. 800-526-2739

Rob

Rob,
Thanks a lot pardner.

Ed

I love this tool that Robert posted here. Ok, so I have a brogueing fetish


Does anyone know where tools like this can be found or what alternatives there are (besides punching individual holes by hand)?

I need to replace a sole on a pair of naturalizer ladies shoes. Is there a source for theirs or soles like them. In case I am not being clear the shoes are fairly new and look like all they are made of is a formed sole with a little leather lining them and the fancy straps all sewn around the edge on the outside I think that I can fix them if i could find a new sole.

Wende, not sure if I understand your description of the shoes. I have some Naturalizer casual shoes, with a molded sole. I don't know if the sole could be removed, or that it would be possible to get a replacement that would fit, but perhaps some shoe repair folks would know.

When the heels wore down on my shoes I took them to a shoe repair shop, and they cut wedge out of the back of the heel sole, and cemented in a replacement chunk of material.

If this is the type of shoe, one possibility might be to grind the soles down partway and then add a layer of soling that can be purchased in sheets and cut to any shape.

Again, not being sure exactly what the shoes are, I may be giving incorrect advice. Perhaps if you describe them in more detail someone else will jump in. Are they casual shoes with flat soles, or dress shoes with a high heel? You mention straps. If they are high heels, disregard everything I suggested above! Apples and oranges...

If you can find similar shoes for sale online, you could post a link to them since you don't have a digital camera...

Jenny

Thanks Jenny,

I think it's worth having a repair shop look at it It's probably over my head.

Wende

Does anybody have a source for a Stegman's cork footbed?

Wende

Rick,

I've been looking for any additional markings on my brogue punching tool that may give a clue to it's origin but can't come up with anything. I know that I brought the tool from the Netherlands, it's not something I've ever seen around here. In fact I have never seen any other ones like this, even in Europe. If any of the European readers have a clue if it's still available and where, please jump in. Chis Williamson pokes his head in occasionally. Chris, if you happen to catch this message would you show the picture around to some of the more senior members of your shop, they may recognize it. I would also love to be able to get my hand on some extra / different dyes for this tool.

Rob

Robert,
I use a crank-operated broguing (is that a word?) machine I bought years ago from an old shoemaker in Philadelphia. It looks a little like a small 5-in-1, with the lower roller a wide rubber wheel, and the top has 6 or 7 different cutting wheels--some with patterns of holes, some for "pinking" edges. It is made by the Peerless Needle Co., and has a patent date of '97. The last pair of fully brogued oxfords I made had 1254 holes!

Dan,

That must have been a nice find. Can you post a picture? I'd be interested in seeing it. How does it work in tight turns? Can you keep a consistent spacing?
Hope you charged by the hole considering you took the time to count them. I can only emagine how often I would have to re-start after loosing count.

Rob

It does fine on the turns--I've done wingtip caps with no trouble; the edges, that is--pattern of holes in the center of the cap must be done by hand. No photos until I buy a digital camera. By the way, I only counted half of one shoe, and estimated the balance.

Malco notchers...have used for thirty years. Excellent.

http://tinyurl.com/2t5wmx


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

If anyone is interested, I have a source for blind eyelets of pretty good quality...and may have a source for a setter although a small eyelet setter may work on them especially if you finish up with a judicious tap to reflatten the rim (leastwise one of my regular eyelet dies works that way). I will have to pursue this a little more.

The blind eyelets are #143 anodized aluminum (smallest available to my knowledge) and they come from Goldberg (now Trendware). I might add that they have a minimum but it doesn't have to be exact so if you order some eyelets and a spool of thread you may get close enough.

Talk to Phil and tell him I sent you.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

pinging Rick Roman,

Rick, I saw your post of June 1. I thought I would let you know that Goetz offers a broguing tool which comes with a standard arrangement of holes--one medium large, two small (#8)--and an edge guide. An assortment of extra punches is available but unless you want to get way crazy with broguing there are only four that might be of interest--same arrangement of holes just different sizes --#6, #8, #10,, &#13). But they have 20 different punches.

I have an email into them requesting more info (price?) and if you're interested I will pass it on when (and if) I hear from them.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC