sewing machines

[daniel_wegan]

Hi! I am the owner of an ASdler 30-1 sewing machine. Well a new owner anyway. I got this machine a while agoo and when I got it worked perfectly but it was very dirty inside so I took it apart and gave it some love. Now whn I have put it back together is spins even better but it wont make real stitces...the shuttle and the needle is threded correctly and it makes stitched but only 3 or 4 very loose ones and efter the that thread breaks ir it looses the under thread. Does anybody have any tips one what need to be adjusted or so on ? Thanks

[large_shoemaker_at_large]

Hi
Just couple thoughts
Tension on the upper and lower threads? did you reassemble the tensioners properly, they a finickey at best and any rough spots?
Did you get the shuttled set in sync with the needle?
Is the needle seated higher/lower?
Is the needle oriented properly?
Regards
Brendan

[daniel_wegan]

All these ar things that might have been done wron geven if I did my best to remember the settings. I expect the shuttled set to be the first thing that might be wrong..How do I check that they are in sync.
If I want to check the tensioners how should these be set and does anybody have pics or a manual I can turn to.
I am uite sure the neede is seatet and oriented correct cause I use the same setting there as when the machine worked as supposed to.

[tmattimore]

IMHO I would first check to see if the thread is properly under the tension leaf spring. I have a 30-1 and it can be a bear to thread. It may look right but sometimes can come loose after 3 to 4 stitches. Breaking needles and strange top tension can be caused by the top thread getting caught under the little loop that the thread passes thru next to the needle bar, this can also cause enough tension that the shuttle fails to find a loop in the thread to catch. The shutle hook point should catch the loop just as the needle starts to come up. Check the shuttle hook for burrs from getting hit by a needle etc.
Tom

[dw]

Daniel,

There is a manual...fairly complete, with parts list...here:

http://www.bootmaker.com/manuals.htm

It is in pdf format and can be opened and view with most web browsers or downloaded to the desktop and opened with a pdf reader like Adobe Acrobat Reader. Downloaded to the desktop, it will also print just as you see it on-screen.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[daniel_wegan]

Hi! Thanks for the help with the machine...I am getting closer and closer to having a working machine. The problem with the needle not picking upp the thread from the shuttle probebly had something to do with the needle bar height. I corrected it after the manual and I think I got it right. Well it makes stitches now anyway.

But now there is another problem. The stitches are still a bit loose and the needle has a tendencie to break the thread. Before the stitches was nice and tight and you could see the top thread coming through when looking at the backside of the peice that has been stitched. Now tho you can see the bottom thread from the top of the peice and it is not as tight as the old stitches.

In the manual it says the thread take-up lever sould be around 13,5mm from the top of the needle bar in it´s highest position....the highest I get mine is 11mm. is this a big issue. The machine has probebly never been higher than 11mm and worked fine before my fiddling.

BTW...is it possible to get hold of the calibration gauges and so on.(might bee a stupid question with such an old machin)
Otherwise...does anyone have tips on how to calibrate these Adler 30-1 machines. It is so nice and I realy wanna get it started again.

[relferink]

Daniel, I'm no expert on the Adler and though I have worked with them I currently do not own one to check but as patchers go they do not vary too much from a functional perspective. The sub class may be different as the manuals for the exact machine at hand may not be available. The manual on DW's site covers the 30-10, 30-50 and 30-70, not the 30-1. Chances are the measurements are the same but they could also have changed over time so don't go by them blindly. I don't know that you can get a calibration gauges without becoming a factory authorized dealer. Still I don't think you need them.

If your stitches show the top thread on the bottom of your work the top tension is likely too low or the bottom tension is too high. Check that the bobbin can freely move within the shuttle. If there are significant loops on the bottom the top thread may not lock correctly. During the stitch cycle the top thread must be locked and only at one moment does it relies to feed a little more tread for the next stitch. Only when the walking foot is up the thread is allow to move smoothly.
To find out if failure to lock the thread is the issue causing the problems try this; thread the machine all the way except through the needle. Hold the thread under tension with one hand and use the other hand to move the machine forward through a stitch cycle. Only on a short section of the cycle should you be able to pull any thread from the spool.

Did you find the correct way to wire the machine? The Adler manual does not show it. Check the singer model 29K manuals and you may be able to figure it out. They are threaded very similar. I would not worry about the 2.25mm difference in the thread take-up lever. it really doesn't pull the stitch tight, the upwards movement of the needle bar does that, all it is suppose to do is keep the thread from slacking.

If the problem continues post a picture of the machine in question to refresh memories about the specifics of that machine and a picture of the looping it causes.

Hope this helps.

Rob

[daniel_wegan]

Thanks for the info...
Does anyone know what type of bolts are used to mount the machine to a table- are they regular M10 or something odd?

[bjohnsonleather]

I got a nice Singer 31-20 head yesterday, and am wondering about any differences between it and the 31-15. Thanks,

[relferink]

Bruce,
Congratulations with your new machine. I don't know the 31-20 personally but have the 31-15 and love it. I bought it thinking I would use it just for gimping but I've been using it more than my post machine lately.
From what I can tell there is not much difference. do check the parts list and the manual on the singer website to be sure.
If you are considering adding a roller foot make check with a dealer for compatibility!
Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.

Rob

[dw]

Bruce,

As far as I know (and I've owed both), the major difference between the 31-15 and the 31-20 is the size of the bobbin/bobbin case. The 31-20 has a larger bobbin.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[aaronhirsch]

Hi,

I've been doing a considerable amount of research into sewing machines. As a beginner, I'd like a nice slow machine with a lot of control and good torque. I'm under the impression that the best combo for me is a 31-15 with a servo motor. Trouble is, the servo motors I'm finding all have a V belt type of wheel. The 31-15 uses a leather belt if I'm not mistaken. Is there some kind of conversion that I can do on either device? How do I tackle this compatibility problem?

Thanks.

[dw]

Aaron,

You can still run a round leather belt in there. I use half inch (?) leather belting.

Leather allows for some slippage...which I like, but many who have been trained in the factory or who start with a servo motor don't feel is necessary.

If this is your first sewing machine and you don't have people screaming for their boots, you might take the time to learn to use it relying wholly on the "lightness of touch" as regards the pressure you apply to the "accelerator."

In the long run you might be glad you did.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[artzend]

Aaron

You can use rubber tube instead of leather belting. It comes as a hollow tube with joiners, and can be purchased in a variety of thicknesses. It is not necessary to only use leather.

To regulate your sewing speed, use your right foot like using an accelerator in your car and put a tennis ball under the pedal. This will give you something to push against and make it easier to learn control.

Also, as DW says, just sit down and sew without thread for as long as it takes to get used to it. Draw lines and try to follow them. The 31K is a good machine and easy to use.

Tim

[aaronhirsch]

Thanks Tim (I bought your book, BTW),

What kind of rubber tube is that and where can I get it here in the US?

Thanks.

Aaron

[artzend]

Aaron

I got mine at a warehouse that sold industrial things like the belting. It also carried V belts and others. I would think that there must be similar places there. Maybe someone else can help out with that for you.

Tim

[das]

Now here's a question:

I have 4 Singer sewing machines for closing (11-17, 236W100, 17-class right-handed and 18-class left-handed cylinder arms). On certain items like English riding boots I need to use 3 or 4 machines on the same upper, so I have them all set to the same stitch-length, needle size/point shape, all running #69 nylon on top, and Nymo in the bobbins (some pre-wound bobbins). Now, if I wanted to try the #44 nylon (or the #33) DW has recommended elsewhere for finer work, logic would dictate that first I determine the correct needle sizes for that weight of thread, then see if I can buy matching needles (sizes/point shapes) for all 4 machines, then find Nymo in a lighter weight for winding or pre-wound bobbins?

The turd in the punch bowl is my 11-17 for back-strapping--needles for it are hard to find, and I think the smallest needles I can get are 16 in round points only--too big for #44 or #33 thread? So far I'm liking twist/reverse twist/tri-point(?) needles over round points. Help me think this through. I'm happy with #69, and all machines set to 16 spi, so you can't tell where one machine stopped and the next one started. I'd like to "try" going finer on thread, but am afraid I might be buying into a whole series of technical problems...."oh the pain, the pain..." as the good Dr. Smith on 'Lost in Space' (1960s US TV show) used to opine.

I also spent a bomb with Goldberg on #69 nylon threads in black, and specific shades I like of brown, straw/tan, and off-white. The gal there said they have a limited color selection in the smaller sizes like #44 and #33, so it will depend on color matching in those sizes too.

[dw]

Al,

Why would a finer thread in a bigger needle be a problem? Perhaps the hole would be slightly out of proportion to the thread filling it? But you're gonna bone down that stitching anyway aren't you?

I think it would be no problem to run a size 46 thread in a #16 needle. Remember the old trick--if you can thread a loose needle and it will slide freely on the thread, the thread will work with the needle.

The 33 would probably be too fine for the hole the needle made. But here's another tip...use either a round point or a "tri-tip" (smaller point han a tri) needle--both make pierced holes that are smaller than the shaft of the needle itself. Test it but, again, you can undoubtedly bone the seam down and not know the difference.

My 2¢...

PS...Any sign of that boxwood sprig?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[das]

DW,

Okay, then what about bobbin-thread? Do you think #69 Nymo would be alright with #44 or $46 on the top?

[paul]

Al,

"I ate a frog once and I didn't get sick".
Well, that's what Bill Cosby said in one of his routines many years ago.

This came to mind as I was thinking that I've run 46 on my top thread and 69 boobins in my 236 post machine. The tension spring is worn on the bobbin case, and I haven't changed it out yet. I seem to be ok with all the other tension adjustments.

But then, like with frogs, there may be consequences we don't know about.

Paul

[dw]

Al,

Well, as you know I run Nymo in my bobbins on all my machines. Nymo is, from what I understand, roughly equivalent to a "D" weight, which, in turn, is roughly equivalent to a size 69. So unless I've got a coloured lining that will be exposed (like on a strap) I'm actually running heavier bobbin thread than top thread. Of course, the Nymo is a flat, almost-monofilament type thread and I think it pulls down different than a twisted thread.

When I want the top thread and the bobbin thread to be the same colour, I usually wind off a bobbin (or part of a bobbin) of the top thread. That's what extra bobbins are for. No reason why you can't run a 69 thread...white?...on the bobbin and a 69 black on top.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[das]

DW, Paul,

Thanks for the input here. I guess I'll try some #44 or #46 top thread w/ #69 ("D&#34 Nymo bobbins--I inherited a ton of these pre-wound "free" for the 236W100. And yes, I noticed the Nymo is weird stuff that lays flat, which I was told was why it was preferred for the "bottom", to lay flat on the linings so as not to get abraded away.

[dw]

Al,

I think what you were told was correct. I notice when I have to wind a coloured bobbin the bobbin thread always ends up quite proud on the lining...especially if you use a relatively firm lining such as a veg tanned kip. Nymo lays flat.

I don't know what the "Stitcher's Bible" says, but I think it is OK, maybe even preferred, to run a larger bobbin thread than top thread. This is especially true if you are running a slightly oversize needle. But even using a correctly sized needle, with the tensions (top and bottom) set correctly, sometimes when you pivot to make a turn (which you do with the needle in the material) you'll widen the hole enough that as you complete the stitch the bobbin thread will pull to the surface. Using slightly oversize bobbin thread works to counter that tendency.

One of the banes of the shoemaker's existence is to see white thread pulling up at the corners of a line of black stitching. It looks terrible.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[headelf]

DW, where are you buying the Nymo prewounds and what size bobbin are you buying. Does this same bobbin fit your flat beds and post machine?
Georgene

[dw]

Georgene,

I'm not buying pre-wounds. Never have. I don't like them...no particular reason except the basic philosophy that "a dollar is as good as an hour" (in my shop it is, anyway. In other words, if I can wind them myself why would I pay someone else to do it?

My old dad always said that the way to get rich was to make money off other people's laziness. I'm not getting rich and as far as I can help it I'm not making anyone else rich either.

Now, after all of that I also must tell you that although this has come up in the relatively recent past, I can't even tell you where to buy spools of Nymo. I bought quite a few, years ago, when Nymo was being made by Belding-Corticelli and I have at least another year or two's left.

Maybe someone else will chime in here...


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member