The Crispin Colloquy

Posted: **Mon Mar 22, 2004 6:52 pm**

Jake,
Was that a fudge wheel used or the tool you made a while back from plyers.And thanks for that info on the #5.
Ed

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2004 5:13 am**

Paul,

Truly appreciate your kind words! Stop by any time.

Ed,

No...it was done with my Tex Robin's plyers. I really like them! You can control the depth of your marks, and keep'em nice and straight.

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2004 3:35 pm**

Jake,
Those plyers did a fine job as a matter of fact I
made a pair just haven't used them yet.When some one ask what type of plyers they are or what you call that tool I will call them a "Tex Robin's"
tool.
Ed

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2004 9:13 pm**

Ed,

I think that's appropriate. It's exactly what I call them, in recognition for Tex Robin's generosity and respect for his dad.

Not to take anything away from Tex, he graciously gave me instructions on making them, but I believe his dad (W.L. Robin and also known as Tex) started using modified pliers "way back when". Tex kinda grew up with them in his hand. Like I said, they were both called Tex, so "Tex Robin's pliers" fits.

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2004 6:40 am**

Jake,

You know, of course, that I was ribbing you about 16 to the inch. Like I said I stitich at 10 to the inch and that looks small to me. But I thought you might be interested in the following:

THE object of stitching is to attach the sole to the welt, a vertical seam being used. The sections forming the seam are laid one over the other, and held together by means of a thread.
The length of the stitch must be governed by the substance of the edge and the class of shoe being made. The number of stitches per inch, in conjunction with the awl being used, must allow of sufficient material between each stitch to enable the thread to obtain a grip. In the shoe illustrated we are stitching to the fudge of eleven per inch, and the stitching awl must be of sufficient strength to pierce the edge and make a perforation large enough for the threads. The awl must have sufficient curvature to enable it to come out at the bottom of the channel, and must be sharpened with a fine file to a long tapering point, equal on each side.

In filing set with the bottom edge the longer. The rough sides produced with the file will assist in controlling during the plunge, and in keeping a uniform amount of the awl coming through on the channel on the sole side, the first essential of uniform perforations.

MAKING A STITCHING THREAD

The thread used must be of sufficient strength to stand the strain during wear, and keep the sole firmly attached to the welt, though unnecessary thread must be avoided on account of the rigidity it produces. The thread must be large enough to fill the hole made by the awl and to show up on the welt as an embellishment in harmony with the edge and the upper. Boots and Shoes, Vol. VI H. Rollinson, F.Y. Golding, ed.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

frommer@bootmaker.com
http://www.bootmaker.com

"Little Jack Dandiprat, in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives the shorter he grows."

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2004 8:07 pm**

Dee-Dubb,

No....I didn't know you were kidding!

Like every good mentor, I considered it an "encouragement"! Or like I do my cattle....prodding!

Give me some time! I'll work on it.

I really enjoyed the Golding quote. One of these days I should buy one of the books. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Take care Ol'Buddy!

Posted: **Fri May 07, 2004 7:18 pm**

I've made a few changes in my process of hand sewing the outsole. I'll try to take pics of the individual steps in the very near future.

This boot was sewn @ 6 spi with Dacron 6 cord. Nothing special, but I'm still working on my technique. As time goes by, my stitching is getting straighter. Next chore is getting them closer...7 spi, 8 spi, 9 spi, etc. I really like the way the sole looks. Not even a hint of the thread poking proud

.

3028.jpg

3029.jpg

3030.jpg

Posted: **Fri May 07, 2004 8:40 pm**

That looks really great! hand stitching?
BTW, what kind of leather is the Vamp on this?

Erick

Posted: **Fri May 07, 2004 11:54 pm**

Jake that handsewing looks fantastic!
Is the blue Vamp Elephant?

More power to y'awl.
(...as if you need it)

T

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 3:32 am**

Jake old boy you're looking mighty good there.
Ed

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 5:39 am**

Erick, Tom, and Ed,

Thanks Amigos for the kinds words! It sure makes my efforts that much sweeter. Mucho Gracious!

The vamp is black elephant. I've bought myself a "compact" digital camera. Was seeing what it would do on close-ups. Well, colour is always a problem with digitals.

I'll try to get to the other boot and set up a series of pics to describe my technique. I tell ya, hand sewing the outsole ain't that big a deal, if you have the wax and bristles. Look forward to my next posting.

Thanks once again Fellers!

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 7:10 am**

Jake,

Very nice...you've definitely "got it going on."

Question, however...I thought you were channeling in from the side on your outsoles?

PS I hope you didn't get rid of your Sony, you never had colour problems with it! Of course, there's always a silver lining...now you'll have to learn to colour correct in PhotoPaint.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 7:38 am**

Hey Dee-Dubb,

Thanks Ol'Buddy!

I took a tip from you and make a vertical cut like the channel knife on a curve needle stitcher. That's one of my "changes". I like it much better!

Oh....I'll never get rid of my Sony. I just wanted to be able to carry a digital camera around without having to carry a "mammoth" like my Sony. The "compact" is a Gateway

. I get "Moola" points with my credit card. I had so much accumulated that the compact cost me very little. Wish I had bought a small Sony!

Yeah.....crank up PhotoPaint!

Take care!

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:17 pm**

Ok....here we go.

At this point, I've cemented my outsoles on, pegged them, and let them dry. It's my opinion that the "tempered" outsole will shrink a certain amount, and the pressure of awling the outsole will twist or distort the outsole.

Next we take our dividers and scribe a line where we want our stitching. I DON'T STITCH GROOVE IT! Take your overstitch wheel and follow your divider line. Then take a saddler's awl and awl down through the welt. Just go through the welt! We're setting up our stitching for straightness and spacing.

3036.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:23 pm**

I usually start wetting my sole with a sponge at this point. While I'm preparing my bristles and thread, I'll go back to the sole and wet it about three or four times.

After the sole has "mellowed" a bit, I'll take my American Channel Knife and make a vertical cut around the sole. Then I'll take my large creaser and open up the cut.

3038.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:27 pm**

I proceed with my next tool....a swivel knife. It has a profile similar to a channel knife on a curve needle stitcher. I go around with my swivel knife until the cut is approximatley 1/2 the thickness of my outsole. With each trip around the outsole, I'll take my large creaser and open up the cut.

3040.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:32 pm**

I then take my 3" sewing awl and awl my holes. Once I start, I awl all my holes. In my opinion, once you get the motion going, you tend to hit your "mark" a lot easier. I occassionally dip my awl into beeswax.

3042.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:36 pm**

I always start on the right side of the boot with the toe into my belly. Hand stitch, trying to pull the same with each stitch. I've hit my groove pretty good on this one. It will be some time before the customer wears into those stitches.

3044.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:40 pm**

Then close your groove. I use this product to smooth everything into place. It's also good for chasing wrinkles while crimping. It lubricates and protects the leather while working it. Good stuff!

3046.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:42 pm**

Here's the closed outsole....with some fine buffing and inking, you'll never see the line.

3048.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 1:46 pm**

And here's the finished stitched welt. Notice the "submerged" stitch on the upper right side of the toe. I believe it's from my "misplaced" awl hole.

3050.jpg

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 2:25 pm**

Final thoughts.....

When cutting your vertical groove on the sole, give yourself a little more room (wider from edge of sole) behind the ball of the foot, medial and lateral sides. You'll need it as you awl the holes. You'll be awling at a different angle as you approach the shank of the boot. All I can say is, you'll know what I mean when you start

.

I guess a feller could use a straight awl while awling most of the sole, but you definitely need the curved sewing awl behind the ball. I don't use a straight awl because I get accustom to the angle of my sewing awl, and switching tends to confuse the mind. Like I said, you get into a motion or rhythm. In my opinion, switching awls tends to mess this up.

And finally, all this wouldn't have come to harvest if it hadn't been for two good friends...D.W. Frommer II and Al Saguto (aka Martha). A deep tip of the hat to both of you. It's imperative to learn D.W.'s bristle technique. It makes things so much easier! Hell, I hardly ever pick up a metal needle any more. His wax recipe is essential also. I could go on and on, but we've talked about these things elsewhere on the Forum. I can't stress enough to research the archives. I do when I have the time. You'll be surprise what you missed!

Well, there you are! Like I said this is an evolving process for me, but I believe I'm on the right path. Hope it helps in some small way.

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 4:51 pm**

Jake,
Take the coinfusion out of my head.Why you don't grove the stitch channel.This is so close to saddle stitching it's like they are first cousins,and are you going to use your "fudge plyers" next.By the way the color mix up still made for a nice color vamp.You have done a super job.
Ed

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2004 6:29 pm**

Ed,

Well, I've always been "heavy-handed", so my stitches are pulled pretty tight. The stitch groove will help in keeping your stitches straighter, but if you're careful and perform the "welt-punch" procedure, the stitches will be straight, but not pulled down into the welt so deep.

I'll use my "Tex Robins' welt pliers" during the top treeing stage. The very next procedure on these boots will be smoothing the shank pegs some and stacking the heels.

Once again, I appreciate the kind words. Thanks!

Posted: **Sun May 09, 2004 1:31 am**

Jake

I’ll join in the chorus, great work!

I really like the swivel knife tough. It's a great idea.

Keep up the good work.
CW

The Crispin Colloquy

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