sewing machines

[homeboy]

Doug,

Try checking the pressure on the pressor wheel (foot). Usually there's an adjustment on top of the machine.

Good luck.

Jake

[douga]

Rob,
The bobbin tries to bind up on the first couple of stitches, I have to "baby" it by hand, until it stops catching underneath. I don't know how else to explain it, but usually after about the third stitch, it feels like it's ready to move on. That's when I'm able to get it to run with the motor. I'm almost afraid that if I get a speed reducer that I'll twist the machine to smithereens the next time it binds up.

I think the crooked lines are due mostly to my sewing so close to the edge of the material, and having to hold it with one hand (while turning the wheel with the other) doesn't help either. You're probably right about my needing more practice, though. I'm just tired of these old finicky machines that I keep buying that require so much fondling. There's a guy I know who has a Consew 227R cylinder bed walking foot model. It looks quite temping at this point, but still, it's not a post bed. What do you think? Here's the link: http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/for/575700684.html

Jake,
You might be right about adjusting the presser tension. It is a bit tight, and my material doesn't really require that much pressure. I'll try loosening up a bit.

Thanks for all your advice,

Doug

[douga]

Bunny,

I checked out the red Singer on Ebay. Is it the flatbed model? It looks pretty clean, but I'm looking for a post bed or cylinder bed machine. Thanks anyway, and keep looking. (I have a 66 Class Singer that 'plows through' about anything I need it to, as far as flatbed machines go.)

Regards,
Doug

[tmattimore]

Doug
You might try putting the top thread under the the roller wheel and maybe putting a little extra tension on it with a thumb. It sounds like you are pulling too much thread underneath on the first stitch. Too big a loop on the bottom will cause a snag, when the hook comes around for the second stitch it will catch two loops.

[dw]

This may be completely off the wall, out in left field, and of no relevance whatsoever...but it just occurred to me that when I got my first machine I struggled with it too.

No one had ever told me that I needed to hold the top and bottom thread firmly as I began and not to let go of them until three stitches were completed.

Just 2¢ from the peanut gallery...

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[chuck_deats]

All,

If you want to really mess up, try sewing a toe bug on a full cut using the continuous thread technique with a patcher. Pull a little extra slack as you move from one line to to the other so it is nice and loose. Keep sewing till you finish. I did not know it was possible to get seven or eight layers of top thread balled up completing covering the back side and keep sewing. Takes at least an hour to pick out all the threads and clean it up. Start over, trying to hit the old holes, one line at a time. That's how we learn.

Chuck

[tmattimore]

Amen brother. Been there, got the tee shirt and a stronger eyeglass prescription to prove it.
Tom

[douga]

Now that's helpful information! I think you're all correct about my stitching. My problem is a good example of a Post Bed "novice" who purchases old machines with no instruction manuals. Thanks, I'll put the pressure on.

[dw]

Doug,

There are two or three downloadable operators manuals in pdf format (free) for the 51 class Singer here


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[relferink]

Doug,

I second DW, hold your threads! that will cause the kind of binding up you describe. Sorry for not mentioning that before, it's sometimes the most obvious and simplest things that skip my mind.

I have no experience with Consew and don't know that model, looking at the picture I wonder if it is a heavy thread machine, more suitable for accent stitching. I can very well be wrong on that as I'm not familiar with that machine. Someone else here may know the exact model.
The servo motor it has works very well and should enable you to sew without going for the wheel. It's much more controllable. Your Singer 51 can be retrofitted with one of those for not all that much money. Talk to a good sewing machine dealer or look for servo motors on Ebay.

I can' find the red singer on Ebay with a quick search. A couple of months ago there was a fire engine red singer flatbed singer listed and if I recall correctly it sold. Make sure you ask questions before buying it so you don't end up with someone else their headache. (but that goes for all off Ebay) I would hesitate to buy a sewing machine you can not at least look at and preferable try before you buy.
May not be the same machine, I can't seem to find the one discussed.

Rob

[tjburr]

I was hoping someone could supply some information on servo motor sewing machine motors.

I am fairly used to the clutch motor on my main machine, but I have another machine that I need to replace the motor. With my clutch machine I regularly control the speed by how much pressure I apply on the foot. I know with the servo motor I can set the speed, but the question I have is if I will still be able to control the speed by how much I press on the foot pedal. In my sewing applications I regularly sew some stuff at low speed and some at almost full speed back to back and am not sure I want to have to dial the speed.

The main thing I was looking at with the servo motors was a quieter motor and less power. I really do not need the speed control (it would have been nice 10 years ago though )

Thanks for any assistance
Terry

[bjohnsonleather]

Terry,
Apparently according to one of the ebay info sections, there are a few styles of servo motors. I am not sure what the nuances are. I have a servo motor on a heavy walking foot needle feed machine and on a 1245 flatbed. The dial controls the top speed. Both of my machines have speed reducers on them. You can still accelerate or decelerate with the pedal. I can sew 1 stitch every 3 seconds if I want to, where ever the top end is set at. I can rip down a belt if I want to, and then crawl around the tip. It seems like more control no matter the range it is set at. I have all the control and speed I need at no more than a quarter of the dial. I usually am under that.
They have a little different feel than my clutch motors did. They carry more torque seems like. If you aren't careful, they will throw your hand off handwheeling if you hit the gas a little hard. You can still handwheel, just a little more care needed. The servo motors are dead quiet when you aren't sewing. They also don't "store" a run on as the clutch disengages. Once the switch is off, they don't run. My clutch motors would go if I shut them off and then accidentally hit the pedal leaning over to open the bobbin case. That will wake you up.

[homeboy]

Dan,

Did you get your Durkopp Adler 4180i-511? If so, how do you like it?

See ya, Jake

[douga]

Rob,

Thanks, I can actually make my 51W28 sew nicely now, by tucking the top thread under the wheel on the first stitch. Also, the Consew looks like a machine that I'd like to use for my heavy tanned leather bookbags and notebooks. The heavier thread is more desirable for me on this type of work. I'll be looking for some expert advice some time soon on which machines are best for this kind of work. Years ago, some saddle makers were telling me that you couldn't beat the Campbell Bosworth machines, but then I can't afford them either.

Doug

[tjburr]

Bruce,

Thanks for the information.

I have gotten real dependent on the brake on my sewing machine, mainly due to the fact I do not like the run-on problem with a clutch motor. I like to sew as fast as I can acurately feed it and not have to wory about costing to the end, so I use the brake alot. So the instant stop sounds exciting.

I really would like something with more torque since I have cases where it slows me down to pull my hand off the work and have to hand crank. It's not due to the fact that I have to think about it, but that there are spots I have to go slow and the work has to be held with both hands. I always hate it when I slow down and it stops going because lack of torque.

So this sounds like a great option. I might even buy one tomorrow and use it on my main machine and not the secondary machine.

Thanks
Terry

[jesselee]

Is anyone familiar with the curved needle 'Simplex' sole stitcher? It is a small table mounted machine with a hand crank wheel set with a groove for a leather belt. I am wondering if there are other curved needles which can be used on this machine, or adapted.
Thanks,
JesseLee

[amuckart]

Another question on whether a machine is worth buying. The same chap as is selling the seam slicker I asked about in another topic (and got for NZ$40) is selling a Pfaff 355 cylinder arm machine that's currently setup for edge bindings.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farming-industry/Industrial/Other/auction-1450 76091.htm

It's likely to go pretty cheap and I'm curious as to whether or not this machine can be set up for regular sewing, and how useful cylinder arm machines are in general.

Many thanks.

[dw]

Alasdair,

Some folks consider a cylinder arm machine as good as or better than a post machine for shoe closing. I can't see it, myself, but I never learned to use it for closing so my experience with a cylinder arm machine is limited. Maybe someone who has one as uses it for shoemaking will jump in here.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[douga]

Hello, I'm back with more Singer 51w28 questions,
I was wondering if anyone has an idea about switching out the roller foot for a regular presser foot? I know it sounds sacrilegious, but I think I'd be better off that way for now for the applications I'm using the machine for. It would make it easier to turn my material around and backtack. Anyway, I've already checked with my sewing supply guy and he says I need to change out the needle bar too. But it looks to me like I could take off the roller foot (a couple of screws) and replace it with another foot without having to change everything. The roller foot has a swivel-out feature, and I think it is made to be replaced easily. Does anyone have experience trying to do such a metamorphosis?
Doug

[dw]

I guess it would work. I used to own one of these machines and, going on memory, I would think that the real problem might come in the feeding of the material. As the 51 series comes with a single feed dog and a regular presser foot need a double feed dog, you might want to look at how hard it is to swap out the feed dogs as well. I don't know why you would need to mess with the needle bar...of course the new presserfoot has to line up with the needle plate hole.

All that said I don't really see many benefits from swapping out the presserfoot. You're not going to gain much in the way of stability...not on a post. And you will loose the ability to get real close to an edge with accuracy--maybe the whole reason for owning a machine such as this.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[douga]

Tight Stitches,
Thanks for your comments. I knew someone was going to try to talk me out of "desecrating" this machine-Ha! Maybe what I should do is learn how to use the feed dog lowering lever, so that I can backtack manually? And maybe I should give up the crazy idea of being able to sew quickly on this machine. What do I think I'm doing, working at "piece-work" wages? I'm just a hobbyist at this point.

o¿o
(~
Doug

[dw]

Doug,

No desecration...if it works and you get a tool that does what you want it to do, then more power to you.

I just can't imagine any real benefits. In fact, I've never seen a machine that was set up for sewing leather that benefited from a "regular" flat presserfoot. Then too, with that machine and either foot, you'd still have to raise the presserfoot and stitch in the other direction to "backtack."

Personally, I never backtack. Well, I take that back...sometimes coming off an edge I'll throw one stitch backwards to lock down the edge. But I don't even turn the material to do that. Just lift the presserfoot and move the material backwards, stitch, and go.

Mostly I'm sewing with nylon on leather and I can "tie off" the thread on the backside with a flame and it will be as secure as a backtack without the unsightly piling up of stitches.

There are many places on top shelf shoes where the stitching is discontinued in the middle of a seam for one reason or another, and then picked up again later on in the construction sequence. Backtacking would look clumsy and unprofessional.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[artzend]

Doug

I agree with DW here, but I always used to lift the presser wheel and move back 3 stitches and stitch out to the end. This locks everything really well.

Tim

[jesselee]

DW,

As you know, I only use natural threads and cords. I have never operated a machine with a wheel type presser foot. I barely understand it. my old Bradbury's and Singer 29k-58 can stitch in any direction, so I just reverse the foot direction. I thought that was pretty nifty
JesseLee

[daniel_wegan]

Hi Everybody.. I just became the owner of a Adler 30-1. It´s and old machine. That worked Ok when I got it. But it´s seems to work even better after I took it apart. cleaned it and lubed it up.
But when I was but back together and small part was left and I dont know where to put it....its a small melat rod about an inch long with a spring over it...I anyone know what it does and where to but it that would be great...or if somebody has a manual for this machine I could buy a copy from.
Thanks alot...and YES.. I know I´m an Idiot!!=)