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Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:29 am
by big_larry
Jake and D.W.,

I turned a pair of fitter boots into wearing boots and used pegs exclusively. When I first started I bought 5 upholstry hides and thought it was a real deal. Upholstry leather makes fine fitter boots.

The fitter boots were near my size and I went ahead and put leather heel stacks on them, again with pegs.

I have worn them for at least 8 months now for outside work and kick around. I just had to know if pegs were really as good as brass nails. So far the pegs are holding up just fine.

Jake, you suggested using a tongue depressor with abbrasive cloth glued on to rub down the peg tips inside the boot. That was a really good suggestion. I carried it one step further and after observing my wife use an emery board that was the same aproximate size as the tongue depressor, I followed your suggestion. I glued 60 grit, 220 grit and then 400 grit to the emery boards. They bend while your paw is up in the boot and seem to hold up quite well.

On several occasions I have enlisteed my wife's help to sand the pegs because she can fit into the smaller size boots.

Thank's to both of you for sharing so much.

Best wishes, Larry Peterson

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 1:47 pm
by homeboy
Larry,

You are quite welcome! It's always nice to hear that you might have helped in some small way. As for me, I've received 10-fold more than I've contributed. Good for you for carrying the trick a little further.

You can also use that little tool to sand the rhand (substitute for a rhand file) and breast of the heel.

If you can talk your kids into it, they have REALLY small hands to get WAAAY down into those tight places pegs like to hide.

Take care!

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 1:47 pm
by marcell
My last post didn't generate so much interest, so I hope this will. A new video from my collection, about goiser stitch.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=8CJUJt75FMI

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 2:12 pm
by hydeandheddle
Thanks for another great video Marcell! I still can't understand How you do the four thread stitching though. I like the look for a work shoe or clog style.

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:17 pm
by tmattimore
Great video I will try it on the next pair. How is it prounounced Goyser? Is it french or german origin?
Thanks Tom

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 11:21 pm
by big_larry
Marcell,

That was a mighty fine video. You really have the " masters touch." I appreciate the work and talent you have put into these videos.

Thanks again, Larry Peterson

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:26 am
by marcell
Ronald, Larry - thanks!

Tom - goiser got the name from an Austrian village (http://www.apartment-annaliese.co.uk/Images/Goisern%20Area%20Map.jpg). So officially a german name. Good luck for this. (I would say, after looking your website, you should choose the original goiser stitch, not this decorative version)

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 4:59 am
by hydeandheddle
I was looking through old posts and noticed that the goiser stitch looks a lot like the picture from Nassir (october 2007) called alpine welt. Are they the same thing?

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 5:46 am
by tmattimore
Marcell
I will try the decorative one first until I get used to four threads. I have some old 3 cord yellow linen I might try building up a 9 cord thread for the braid. The color variation might be interesting.

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:50 am
by shoestring
Marcell,

As always your videos are inspiring and you really do a fine job at shoe building.I will have to review this one a little more to grasp the 3 braid sewing.

Ed

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:56 pm
by mack
Marcell,
I have just watched your goiser video.It's great to see another shoemaker at work and to see the similarities and the different work methods used.
The fancy stitch work is very nice and you make it look easy ! ( I know it isn't ) I will watch your other videos and I'm sure I will learn more.
Very nice work.
Regards Mack

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:35 pm
by large_shoemaker_at_large
Marcell
I also watched the video, Great job. Can you draw a diagram of how the stitching is done? Can't work it out from the video. I also noticed did you attach the upper leather to the bottem of the welt before applying the 1st sole? if so why? Last question, is that an Alpine welt? One more Do you make your uppers? they seemed to be easy to last.
Regards
Brendan

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:49 pm
by marcell
Thanks everyone.

Brendan: I have a designer, who makes me the prototypes. I don't make experiments with making them - she is more professional and quicker than I would be.. And she is very precise - lasting should look, like this, not a struggle to make the upper straight. Upper leather attach is decoration, and makes the shoe stronger.

I am afraid I can't make this diagram. I can put an other video on, if you need.

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:33 pm
by relferink
Marcell,

Great addition to the series. You do make it look too easy.

Keep up the good work.

Rob

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 3:34 am
by marcell
I made a close-up video instead of diagram. I believe, you can learn this spinning stitch from it. I will post the link as soon as youtube will finish maintenance on the site.

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:16 am
by corvin
Marcell,

Just got a chance to watch the close-up video. Much more clear and understandable and you make it look so easy, while I'm sure it's not. Thanks for sharing some of your techniques with us!

It almost looks like a type of embroidery chain stitch.

Craig

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 2:03 pm
by marcell
If someone didn't find it yet..

http://youtube.com/watch?v=UMp0sAr2Nwg

Feel free to ask, if you don't understand something!

Craig: your welcome. I am glad that you find it useful.

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:29 pm
by dw
Marcell,

I too, want to thank you for your video.

I understand the technique, I just don't understand where the crossing threads start. Is it just a long thread folded in on itself and added, or does it begin inside the inseam?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 12:01 am
by marcell
DW,The first version: folded. That thread can be much shorter than the other one (and also waxed).

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 7:44 am
by dw
Marcell,

Thanks, that helps a great deal. Almost makes me want to run a Gosier on my proposed saddle shoes.

Thanks again for posting it.

If it is OK with you I may put a copy on the Crispin Colloquy for preservation for the ages. You are so prolific, I have a hard time keeping up with all your videos. But this one is a "keeper." Image

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 6:52 pm
by dw
All,

Thought I would share a photo I ran across (with apologies to themaker, the owner and to whoever else's toes I might be stepping on).

This is what I'm talking about!! Image Maybe because of my previous training and experience--I'm a bootmaker and I like the longer look and I am completely in awe of the fiddleback shank and beveled waist. I can do that, I can, exactly that...with pegs. With thread? Well, I'm working on it!

Give credit where credit is due--a Gaziano and Girling
7212.jpg


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 8:42 am
by romango
It would be such a shame to walk on them Image

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:04 pm
by dearbone
7216.jpg
7217.jpg
7218.jpg

some of you have been asking me about the alpine welt or gosier, here is how i make it, the holes are not premake, but made one at time sewing, I will sew the soles soon and I will explain more.

regards Nasser.

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:43 pm
by dearbone
Folks,

I lost my internet connection 4 days ago,i have some good pics for the alpine welt,i will post them when my connection is back.

regards Nasser

Re: Bottoming techniques

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:06 am
by dearbone
7230.jpg
7231.jpg
7232.jpg

Here are few more pictures of the alpine welt. the awl used is the German awl,i broke the tip,but works even better a little shorter.

regards Nasser.