Tools of the Trade
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gcunning
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- Full Name: Gary
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Floyd I can't tell you if it was "true" plexiglass. But the material I used was not brittle at all. It was a little hard to get cut just right but when finished I had a pattern that will be used for a very long time. Just like DW described with the formica the plexiglass can be laid down and cut around very neatly.
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bct
Re: Tools of the Trade
"Warning" Break Away Knifes!
If you Skive with a Break Away Knife Large or Small You MUST wear Safety Glasses.
If you bend the break away like the old skiving knife the blade section can break off shoot straight up!
Do Not, I repeat Do not bend a small break away blade to Skive.
If you break a blade while skiving you are putting to much pressure on the blade.
Being from the old school of skiving knifes. I Skive with the pull method and the back edge of the blade close to the handle bending the blade. I have not mastered the small break away knife for skiving yet. Therefore I wear safely glasses which everybody should use these style knifes to Skive.
Carl Chappell introduced me and many others to these wonderful razor sharp knifes. Everybody loves these knifes, everybody has not experienced the Horror either, I have talked to everybody I know that uses these knife. Now that they are being discussed on the forum this Safety information MUST go with them.
Like any other tool use proper safety equipment.
Brian C. Thomas
If you Skive with a Break Away Knife Large or Small You MUST wear Safety Glasses.
If you bend the break away like the old skiving knife the blade section can break off shoot straight up!
Do Not, I repeat Do not bend a small break away blade to Skive.
If you break a blade while skiving you are putting to much pressure on the blade.
Being from the old school of skiving knifes. I Skive with the pull method and the back edge of the blade close to the handle bending the blade. I have not mastered the small break away knife for skiving yet. Therefore I wear safely glasses which everybody should use these style knifes to Skive.
Carl Chappell introduced me and many others to these wonderful razor sharp knifes. Everybody loves these knifes, everybody has not experienced the Horror either, I have talked to everybody I know that uses these knife. Now that they are being discussed on the forum this Safety information MUST go with them.
Like any other tool use proper safety equipment.
Brian C. Thomas
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jonathon
Re: Tools of the Trade
I'm very interested in finding out more about these "cutting needles" described in previous posts.
Are they something that can be purchaced commercially, or do they need to be custom made?
If the latter is the case,what do you guys and gals up there make 'em out of?
I've not heard of these before but it sounds
like a fantastic method. Heck, to be able to to do all four tops in one hit would be heaven sent.
Tex, D.W. Lisa, tell me more!
Cheers.
Jon.
Are they something that can be purchaced commercially, or do they need to be custom made?
If the latter is the case,what do you guys and gals up there make 'em out of?
I've not heard of these before but it sounds
like a fantastic method. Heck, to be able to to do all four tops in one hit would be heaven sent.
Tex, D.W. Lisa, tell me more!
Cheers.
Jon.
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dw
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Jonathon,
Here's the skinny...first, you need a sewing machine that adjusts stitch length from zero to whatever. The point being that you must be able to take the stitch length down to nothing. Only a bottom feed machine will do this and not all of them will go down to nothing. The best machine for this purpose is a 31 class Singer...or as Tex has mentioned the 44 class amchine obviously works (I can't vouch for that myself, never having seen a 44 class). The continuous feed, gear driven machines will not do the trick.
Now for the cutting needle...you break a needle such that when it is mounted in the machine it is barely long enough to break the plane of the needle plate. This need not be a large needle. I use a 12 (I think that's an 80) Then sharpen the broken end into a flat chisel point. Be as careful with this as you can. You want an equal edge on each side...so that the cutting edge is directly in the center of the neelde shaft. Sharpen the needle so that the chisel edge is parallel to the line of stitching. And yes, that means that one side of the needle will still have the thread groove.
Mount the needle in the machine. Again, the chisel edge must be in-line or parallel to the line of stitching. This is *very* important and must be done very carefully. Why will become apparent in a moment. I do this by placing a piece of thin cardboard--such as may be found in a manila folder--under the needle. Then I tighten the needle into the needle bar.
Now I set my feed (stitch length) to zero. It is not really absolute zero but it is very close. Now I drop the needle point until it just penetrates the surface of the cardboard. Ultimately we want the needle point to barely pierce the cardboard all the way. "Barely" is the operative word there. But for the moment we just want the needle point to barely cut the *surface* of the cardboard. If it does that we will be able see the cut it makes and tell if it is in line with the direction of feed or slightly canted one way or the other.
If you are satisfied, finish the stitch and check for depth as I mentioned above. Then take another stitch. The two stitches should virtually overlap and be right inline with each other. If the needle is not perfectly parallel with the line of stitching you'll end up with a fuzzy edge.
If the needle is not straight, cycle the machine until the point of the needle is just barely in the cardboard again and then loosen the needle bar screw and rotate the cardboard until the point is lined up. Tighten the needle bar screw. Lining up the point is the most important part (aside from sharpening) and the only way to insure a clean cut.
Then you cement your leather singly or in stacks to a piece of the manila folder or some other piece of cardboard. Cement a cutting pattern on top of the leather. I usually just use plain paper on which my design is drawn.
With the machine set to zero feed, you can "sew", following your cutting pattern (it's slow but accurate) and the machine will do the cutting for you!
Finally...just to answer a (F)requently (A)sked (Q)uestion...the needle is mounted such that the thread groove faces the inside of an inlay. That way the groove itself does not "striate" the edge of the cut. You want a clean precise cut here.
Hope that helps. Good luck...
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Here's the skinny...first, you need a sewing machine that adjusts stitch length from zero to whatever. The point being that you must be able to take the stitch length down to nothing. Only a bottom feed machine will do this and not all of them will go down to nothing. The best machine for this purpose is a 31 class Singer...or as Tex has mentioned the 44 class amchine obviously works (I can't vouch for that myself, never having seen a 44 class). The continuous feed, gear driven machines will not do the trick.
Now for the cutting needle...you break a needle such that when it is mounted in the machine it is barely long enough to break the plane of the needle plate. This need not be a large needle. I use a 12 (I think that's an 80) Then sharpen the broken end into a flat chisel point. Be as careful with this as you can. You want an equal edge on each side...so that the cutting edge is directly in the center of the neelde shaft. Sharpen the needle so that the chisel edge is parallel to the line of stitching. And yes, that means that one side of the needle will still have the thread groove.
Mount the needle in the machine. Again, the chisel edge must be in-line or parallel to the line of stitching. This is *very* important and must be done very carefully. Why will become apparent in a moment. I do this by placing a piece of thin cardboard--such as may be found in a manila folder--under the needle. Then I tighten the needle into the needle bar.
Now I set my feed (stitch length) to zero. It is not really absolute zero but it is very close. Now I drop the needle point until it just penetrates the surface of the cardboard. Ultimately we want the needle point to barely pierce the cardboard all the way. "Barely" is the operative word there. But for the moment we just want the needle point to barely cut the *surface* of the cardboard. If it does that we will be able see the cut it makes and tell if it is in line with the direction of feed or slightly canted one way or the other.
If you are satisfied, finish the stitch and check for depth as I mentioned above. Then take another stitch. The two stitches should virtually overlap and be right inline with each other. If the needle is not perfectly parallel with the line of stitching you'll end up with a fuzzy edge.
If the needle is not straight, cycle the machine until the point of the needle is just barely in the cardboard again and then loosen the needle bar screw and rotate the cardboard until the point is lined up. Tighten the needle bar screw. Lining up the point is the most important part (aside from sharpening) and the only way to insure a clean cut.
Then you cement your leather singly or in stacks to a piece of the manila folder or some other piece of cardboard. Cement a cutting pattern on top of the leather. I usually just use plain paper on which my design is drawn.
With the machine set to zero feed, you can "sew", following your cutting pattern (it's slow but accurate) and the machine will do the cutting for you!
Finally...just to answer a (F)requently (A)sked (Q)uestion...the needle is mounted such that the thread groove faces the inside of an inlay. That way the groove itself does not "striate" the edge of the cut. You want a clean precise cut here.
Hope that helps. Good luck...
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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Tex Robin
Re: Tools of the Trade
Jon,
This detailed explanation by DW is about as close as you could get it. The only difference in his and mine are that I don't cement the paper(manila envelope) to the four stacked layers. I just let it lay under the inlays as they are cut. It is hard to separate it after cutting. Also note when you separate the four be very careful not to stretch the inlays when separating them. And you need to singe all edges. There will be a slightly fuzzy edge left. Do this before separating them...TR
This detailed explanation by DW is about as close as you could get it. The only difference in his and mine are that I don't cement the paper(manila envelope) to the four stacked layers. I just let it lay under the inlays as they are cut. It is hard to separate it after cutting. Also note when you separate the four be very careful not to stretch the inlays when separating them. And you need to singe all edges. There will be a slightly fuzzy edge left. Do this before separating them...TR
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jonathon
Re: Tools of the Trade
Thanks guys.
These tips should help a great deal. I have a 31 class singer so I'll give it a burl. I'm just about to start on some derby ankle boots at the moment,(no inlays here),but I'll let you both know how I get on at a later date.
Thanks again for the tips.
Cheers.
Jon.
These tips should help a great deal. I have a 31 class singer so I'll give it a burl. I'm just about to start on some derby ankle boots at the moment,(no inlays here),but I'll let you both know how I get on at a later date.
Thanks again for the tips.
Cheers.
Jon.
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shoestring
Re: Tools of the Trade
I found an old catalog of mine that had knifes simular to the "Don Carlos" knifes the reason I stated simular is because no name was mentioned, here is the company Apex Foot Products Corp.-200 Forest Ave.-Englewood,New Jersey 07631-(201)871-0870-(212)-929-2242.They specialize in orthopedic supplies.
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dw
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Al,
Regarding lining trimmers...I had one but never could get it sharpened correctly and ended up ruining it. I've always used a French edger, like the one pictured below. I use these tools for all sorts of things and would almost consider a bootshop without a few to be incomplete. I know how a lining trimmer is used and a good French edger will do the very same thing and maybe even better because you can angle the blade very flatly and both trim your lining and "skive" it to a beautiful fine taper at the same time.
The fact that I have a full set of Ron's (plus) and a number of MacMillan's and Barnsley's should tell you how highly I regard them. In the finest sizes they are invaluable for doing very refined inlay and overlay work.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Regarding lining trimmers...I had one but never could get it sharpened correctly and ended up ruining it. I've always used a French edger, like the one pictured below. I use these tools for all sorts of things and would almost consider a bootshop without a few to be incomplete. I know how a lining trimmer is used and a good French edger will do the very same thing and maybe even better because you can angle the blade very flatly and both trim your lining and "skive" it to a beautiful fine taper at the same time.
The fact that I have a full set of Ron's (plus) and a number of MacMillan's and Barnsley's should tell you how highly I regard them. In the finest sizes they are invaluable for doing very refined inlay and overlay work.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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D.A. Saguto--HCC
Re: Tools of the Trade
DW,
After my visit with you several years ago, I picked-up a nice edger like you show. I find it a devil to control though, especially going around curves like boot-tongue linings, but it does fine on straight-aways and similar trimming jobs. I'm sure using one and getting perfect results is a knack to be learned, but it's a bear to steer one of those for me. It's a very similar tool to the English "feather plough" [see:Salaman] for sculpting the feather around the edge of an insole, which is all I've used my French edger for when my hand grabs it.
After my visit with you several years ago, I picked-up a nice edger like you show. I find it a devil to control though, especially going around curves like boot-tongue linings, but it does fine on straight-aways and similar trimming jobs. I'm sure using one and getting perfect results is a knack to be learned, but it's a bear to steer one of those for me. It's a very similar tool to the English "feather plough" [see:Salaman] for sculpting the feather around the edge of an insole, which is all I've used my French edger for when my hand grabs it.
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Tex Robin
Re: Tools of the Trade
DW, Al,
Well, I am the odd ball here again. I don't use an edger at all for triming linings. I simply use a sharp knife and it works well. There is just a simple technique to learn. My students seem to catch on to it too so it is not something that takes a long time to learn. I never liked the hastle of sharpening the edgers either. TR
Well, I am the odd ball here again. I don't use an edger at all for triming linings. I simply use a sharp knife and it works well. There is just a simple technique to learn. My students seem to catch on to it too so it is not something that takes a long time to learn. I never liked the hastle of sharpening the edgers either. TR
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tmattimore
Re: Tools of the Trade
I use a very cheap old tandy V type edger purchased years ago to trim sheepskin linings on saddles. it works great on even thin pig and will cut on the side as well as the apex of the V making turning a corner or using either hand a snap. Tom Mattimore
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dw
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Re: Tools of the Trade
I don't think I've posted this tool before, although I meant to. This is an American channeler and was originally intended for saddlemaking. I use it for channeling the insole. It will cut to a specified depth, and at a set distance from the edge. Set it for roughly 3/16th of an inch and half the thickness of the insole and it will make the first cut for your outside channel. All that is needed is to use a welt knife or a french edger, like the one pictured above, to remove the excess and voila! you have a perfectly rabbetted outside channel.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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gcunning
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Re: Tools of the Trade
DW,
I found out at Riverside you had Ron's tools alter a #1 French Edger for inlays. What did you have them alter and does it work?
I found out at Riverside you had Ron's tools alter a #1 French Edger for inlays. What did you have them alter and does it work?
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dw
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Gary,
I had them machine the upper surface of the blade completely flat and true. Even on many of the best old tools this is not done. Then I had them sharpen the tool from the bottom. Most of the old Osborne's and Gompfs are sharpened from the top. [When sharpened from the top, the top surface of the blade doesn't have to be flat and true] Then I had them lower and thin the side walls a bit. In fact, I have a whole run of Ron's French edgers, from #1 to #12, and they're all made like that.
I use the narrow french edgers to put a skant skive on the back edge of inlay cut-outs and on the edge of the "plugs." It works great. I wouldn't use anything else.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
I had them machine the upper surface of the blade completely flat and true. Even on many of the best old tools this is not done. Then I had them sharpen the tool from the bottom. Most of the old Osborne's and Gompfs are sharpened from the top. [When sharpened from the top, the top surface of the blade doesn't have to be flat and true] Then I had them lower and thin the side walls a bit. In fact, I have a whole run of Ron's French edgers, from #1 to #12, and they're all made like that.
I use the narrow french edgers to put a skant skive on the back edge of inlay cut-outs and on the edge of the "plugs." It works great. I wouldn't use anything else.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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shoestring
Re: Tools of the Trade
Can anyone tell me where I can purchase the "Silver Pens" that I've been reading about and what is the brand name,everywhere I have looked is a blank.Thanks
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Tex Robin
Re: Tools of the Trade
Edward,
Go to your local Walmart and look in the crafts dept. I can't recall the brand name but that is where you will find them..TR
Go to your local Walmart and look in the crafts dept. I can't recall the brand name but that is where you will find them..TR
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Tex Robin
Re: Tools of the Trade
Edward,
After going to the shop the pens are called "Fiskars" , Silver writing and drawing pens. They are found in the crafts dept at Walmart and I have not found anything they will not wipe off of with water. But I wouldn't bet on roughout!..TR
After going to the shop the pens are called "Fiskars" , Silver writing and drawing pens. They are found in the crafts dept at Walmart and I have not found anything they will not wipe off of with water. But I wouldn't bet on roughout!..TR
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rosynay
Re: Tools of the Trade
Tex & All
Glad you clarified the silver pens.They can also be found in sewing stores like Jo Ann's & Hancocks or any quilt shop and fabric store. I have some in my sewing box and did not know what all of you were talking about until you mentioned "Fiskars".
RL
Glad you clarified the silver pens.They can also be found in sewing stores like Jo Ann's & Hancocks or any quilt shop and fabric store. I have some in my sewing box and did not know what all of you were talking about until you mentioned "Fiskars".
RL
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cmstrong
Re: Tools of the Trade
Last Maker!!
I just received an order of last from the Montana Last Company and to say these last look great is an understatment. I was having a hard time trying to get some last order in with out costing a lot of money. So I read on the forum about Bruce at the Montana Last Company. So I gave him a call. He told me that he has been working on getting his models just right and making sure the last are going to be right. Well I think he did his job. If you need some last you might give him a call at 406-685-3420.
I just received an order of last from the Montana Last Company and to say these last look great is an understatment. I was having a hard time trying to get some last order in with out costing a lot of money. So I read on the forum about Bruce at the Montana Last Company. So I gave him a call. He told me that he has been working on getting his models just right and making sure the last are going to be right. Well I think he did his job. If you need some last you might give him a call at 406-685-3420.
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judy
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cmstrong
Re: Tools of the Trade
Good evening all. Sorry about not putting in the address to Montana Last Co. it is 110 N. Pony St. P.O.Box 687, Pony, MT 59747 Also a phone number might help 406-685-3420, Bruce Flesch is the owner. Thanks Mike
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D.A. Saguto--HCC
Re: Tools of the Trade
My favorite Don Carlos curved skiving knife
My favorite old lip knife
My favorite old lip knife
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D.A. Saguto--HCC
Re: Tools of the Trade
A Berg "safety" welt knife
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D.A. Saguto--HCC
Re: Tools of the Trade
B.U.M.C. extension-handle clicking knife [I file flats on the side so it won't roll around]
Barnsely drag knife [an old one, better than new ones]
Barnsely drag knife [an old one, better than new ones]
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