The Crispin Colloquy

I'd go for the post machine, particularly since you have the opportunity to go see it in person. Posts are harder to come by and tricky to buy by remote control because there's the disassembly for shipping.
The Good Housekeeper is a beauty but it is also not specifically for continuing heavy duty leather use. As an obscure brand, I'd question future availability of parts and service and like Paul I'd try for a machine that can be fitted with a roller foot. I have no dog in this hunt but that's my two cents worth. Georgene

Thank you for the 2 cents. I think you are right. It's just the woman in me that makes me want to shop on line. hmm sounds like an old hippy song.

Bunny

Agree with Georgene. Search for a post bed and try before you pay.

I found one fairly local am going to see it Sunday coming.

Marcell where did you get the rasp/fill/? you used on the heels of the shoe you made on Youtube? I'm tool knowledge impaired.

Bunny

Bunny,

I am not sure what you are looking for, But I have a new Adler 68-202 Post machine for sale. It is shown on my web-site www.jclleathermachinery.com you can shoot me a e-mail or give me a call if you have any questions.

Thanks John

The one I am looking at is a Singer 138wSV7 for less than $200.

Bunny

Bunny,

to make the correct form with a rasp takes long time and work. If you don't need to have 100% handmade stamp on your shoes, I would suggest to use a machine.

You mean a sander type machine?

Bunny

Yes. That can make you work easier. but if you absolutely insist of using hand tools: rasp is not enough. You have to learn how to use (and make) broken glass too. And have to have a very-very sharp knife.

Hand tools can come in handy sometimes. I like to have them on hand. I have a glass grinder that can make the edges of glass smooth so it won't cut. Do you use thick or thin glass? Have you ever tried the bottom of a wine bottle?

Bunny

Never tried that. I break glasses with hand - you can see it on the video, and I use exactly 2 mm thick. 3 mm is too thick already.

Glass must be BREAK to make the good edge. If doesn't cut - good for nothing.

Hey Everyone,

I just started a little project to save a shoe repair shop full of equipment from the dump. Man, there was a lot of junk mixed it. The guy was quite a pack rat, it pretty much filled up my 20ft by 20ft garage. Here is the story.

http://www.sfshoeco.com/otherstuff.html

Just thought I'd let you all get prepared as there will be questions.

Paul

Paul
You should hang on to the nailer it looks like a comet 12 real handy for heels. Do you have any hob nails in there.?
Tom

Can anyone tell me why an old Landis 400 Finishing machine would be worth the room that it takes up? I believe that it is about 12' long.

Geri

Geri,

Hard to say. If you have the room for it and it's a machine that runs well they can be very useful. Many come from repair shops that closed their doors. Owner that try to sell one find that they have little value beyond what the scrap metal dealer wants to give.

They are to large for my taste but that's just me. If you want something smaller consider the Jack Master made by Autosoler.

Rob

Geraldine,

I have a Landis 400, I believe (I'm not in the shop at the moment to check, but I believe that that's the one), and, no offense to anyone else but I wouldn't have any other machine.

First, this is the "racing" model--it has gear shift knobs right out of the old MGA I had when I was in college. And it's painted British Racing Green! All good things.

Second, the machine has three different shafts and all three run at very different speeds--the trimmer section (consisting of a spinning round of sharp knives) runs very fast so that the knives won't burn or chatter in the leather. The grinding section runs at a moderate speed so that the sandpaper can cut the and not burn the leather. And the brush section runs at relatively slow speed and with little torque so that the brushes won't burn the waxes.

Third, since I make boots I have stripped off at least four of the ports and the corresponding wheels from the grinding section to allow some comfort room between wheels. So that even when I'm sky-larking I'm less likely to bump the shaft, or the toe of the boot up against another wheel.

Four, you can use parts of it as a temporary anvil (don't try this at home, kids).

At least one and three are not possible with a smaller machine such as those that will fit in your closet. And number two may not be either. Four is "are you out of your mind?" out of the question.

Should you hold out for a Landis 400?...by no means. They're better suited for folks who revel in "big iron."

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

This is a -For Information Only-sewing machine subjuct.

Some months ago, I was pretty verbal about my being fustrated with my "Tippman Boss." I had called the conpany several times and they gave me little tasks to try. Some really fine bootmakers also gave me some good guidance on polishing and lubricating. I followed their counsel and the mechanism is smooth. I knew the year guarentee was about exhausted and so I made one last empassioned plea to the makers and they reluctantly told me to send it back with a leather build up resenbling the side of the boots I was trying to sew. I sent it back.

Yesterday it came back home and it now has sewn one pair of boots (side stitching only), the side seam builfup I had sent, and will sew another pair tomarrow. The puppy never missed a stitch. The fellow at the Tippman office called and told me the machining had not been completed and that they had sent it to be reamed.

The really nice thing was that he paid the freight back to me and didn't charge me a thing. The side stitching thread has to hold a lot, especially when we flatten out the edge before turning right side out. I like to use the heavier thread. I had been eying a 205 Adler that for sure would side seam and a lot more. I guess this saved me a very large outlay.

Anyway, in all fairness to the Tippman folks, I thought I had better give then their due, especially after the way I was snivelling before.

Once more Thank you for tolerating me, Larry Peterson

Larry,

I think I speak for most when I say we appreciate the feedback...one way or the other.

Suppliers and manufacturers need to be given credit and praise when they deal fairly and openly. and they need to be taken to task when they seem less than willing to stand behind their products.

If we all did this, and if we all paid attention to others when they did this, we could wield some small influence, I think.

I don't necessarily mean that we should disparage folks. But, you know, if you get treated poorly you should, at the very least, tell the person who has done you wrong what you think of the situation. Maybe they don't honestly know. And maybe it will make them think next time around.

And by all means...if nothing else...when a company treats you right, let the world know. Somewhere, sometime, some one will read or hear your remarks and give that company business that they might not have otherwise done.

And that one response will go a long way towards keeping that company...and their policies of courtesy and goodwill...viable and in business.

Good on you, Larry. And thanks again.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

Larry,

Glad that yours is finally working and there really was something wrong. When a machine that simple doesn't work it makes you doubt your sanity.

On a Tippmann related note, I made a block of machined aluminum to rotate the handle 180 degrees. This puts the cranker hand at the same elevation as the needle and is much easier on my shoulder. It could probably be done out of hardwood since it doesn't really get stressed that much. If you use it a lot, the more neutral position is nice.

Paul

Thank's Paul,

I am a bit slow sometimes understanding. Would you consider elaberating on how to go about doing that. Once I have a mental picture I can probably make the improvement.

I don't consider myself a machinest, however, I am a bit of a "Metal Butcher."

I appreciate your taking the time and sharing your invention.

Yhank you, Larry Peterson

Can someone direct me to a place that sell Landis parts,I tried Pilgrims,never got an answer.What I am looking for is the face plate that holds the bobbin in on an out sole stitcher it's a # 12.

Ed

Hi Ed,

You could try www.landisinternational.ca

They have a fairly extensive parts catalog online and are very helpful on the phone. They are one of the few companies in North America who actually still build things.

The website is a bit cluttered but the info is in there if you dig a bit.

Hope it helps a bit

Sean

I am having some issues with a finisher.

I am mounting a new sole trimmer to an Sutton S-750.


The trimmer guard (I'm not sure what it is called) does not like to engage and adjust for thickness. The picture shows it without the cutter. It worked fine with the old cutter, but now it doesn't. I have checked, and the numbers are identical on the new and old trimmers.

Also...

has anyone dealt with a seized bayonet? the brush section does not want to come loose.

I hope someone can help with this.

Thanks,

Erick

Erick, I had a pretty badly seized bayonet on my S-750 and I ended up locking onto it with a large pair of vice grips. Tore up the bayonet and I had to then polish it down and clean it up.

I now use a super light white grease on my bayonets and the layer of grease is so thin that you can't even see it. It's just enough so the parts don't lock up metal to metal.

But that alone doesn't do the trick for me so I bored a hole through my bayonets so I can slide a phillips screwdriver through the bayonet and use that as a handle to twist the bayonet out.

There's probably an easier way but I don't know it and sure would like to.
Regards, Tom Mickel

Looking for someone knowledgeable in maintaining and fixing a Rapid E outsole stitcher in eastern Massachusetts or Southern New England. Shoe repair buddy is having trouble with his machine and can't figure out how to fix it.

Thanks

Rob