The Crispin Colloquy

Bill,
If I had re-read your post I would have answered my assumption about the catalog, sorry.

Erick

Bill,
I have a last that I got from sterling it is a straight last with a broad long almost shovel toe, it has about a 3/4''heel and nice round heel. The number is TLW 0201 dated may 19 2000. If you find any of the other sraight last styles or civil war models let me know.
Mick

I've had a lady contact me wanting a pair of mules with 3" heels. Sounds like fun, but only if I can track down a last with a three inch heel! Is there still going to be a new source opening soon for lasts?

Lisa

Lisa,

Bill Tippit's wife is opening a new business with Bill's guidance. I believe he said they were going to try to start in June.

If you can wait a few weeks....days?.....maybe he/she can help.

Our apologies to everyone. We've had some health issues in the family recently that have prevented us from being online as much as usual. Plans are still moving forward to start taking orders for lasts in late June or July.

Lisa, we'll contact you directly about your 3" mule last. As soon as we're able to accept orders on a daily basis we'll post the announcement and perhaps a link to a website where you can order online, though the website may be a few months down the road.

Bill & Juel

LAST CHANCE, FRIENDS...as I mentioned many months ago, I need to get rid of my lastmaking shop...There has been a little interest...but nothing serious. I understand it is not an easy undertaking to make this happen...but it seems a waste for someone not to take advantage of all the effort that went into putting this together. This is not a last factory, but a small lastmaking shop, just as most of your bootmaking shops are put together. If anyone is up to the adventure, please email me by the end of June so we can work something out. Thank you, Jim. jbowmanlasts@yahoo.com

Jim,

Glad you've gotten a "little" interest, but sad nobody's come through with anything substantive so far. Perhaps if you'd tell us a little about the scope and range of what you have, and/or the capabilities? I mean, could a clever bootmaker go 100% self-sufficient on lasts with what you're offering? So few of us really know what all goes into lastmaking, it might be a little scary, but I think this would a be a great--and probably the last--chance anybody will have to acquire good condition analog lathes, etc., from a small workshop lovingly operated by a top-notch craftsman.

I have no commercial links nor stand to gain anything from Jim Bowman; just having seen his shop, enjoyed using his lasts for years, I think this would be one heck of a great opportunity for somebody in our boot and shoe community to dive on.

All,
I Mentioned once that I would like to learn more specifics regarding making lasts. *IF* I was able to find the resources to be genuinly interested in the last making set up - could I find the knowledge-base to successfuly USE the equiptment - regardless of success as business.

Erick

Ouestion,
When ordering a pair of last what is ment by heel height 12/8 or 13/8,(5 1/2 /8)or 6/8 I undrestand getting to the heel height while constructing a pattern but what I see in this catalog have me confused.One other question you give the length measurements(heel to toe)right and what if you are unsure of the width(AA-B-or D) and are only working with the measurement how do you make that call.Thanks

Ed

I can answer the heel height question, I read the reason why a while back, but I don't remember it - heel heights are measured in eighths of an inch: 1" = 8/8, 2.5" = 20/8.

What I don't know and I would like an answer to this is: when ordering from a catalog, is the heel height measured at the back feather edge or at the heel breast line? I recall reading in a manual that when MAKING a last the height is measured at the breast, but I have always seen heel heights equivilent to the back edge.

I hope that is what you were asking about. I second the other half of your question about widths.

Erick

Erick's answer about heel heights is correct. As to whether they are measured at the breast or the back of the heel, most last makers in the US that I know of always measured at the breast. Some, buy not many, would sometimes refer to a heel height as, for example 10/8 x 10.5/8 meaning that the degree of heel wedge angle was such that it measured 10/8 at the breast and 10.5/8 at the back (1/16" higher). Others (most in my experience) would say 10/8 and then give the actual wedge angle, such as 9 degrees. You also need to keep in mind when ordering from a catalog that if you are looking at a size 6 and it says 12/8, that heel height is going to get gradually higher (if you keep a constant toe spring) as you grade up in sizes. The amount it increases depends on the start, the wedge angle, the toe spring, and how far you grade. Of course, if you keep a constant toe spring while the heel height grades, your tread point will move. The bootmaker will usually use the original heel (that's why he/she wanted a 12/8 in the first place, right?). That means the toe spring will now be higher on a bigger size because the last has "dropped" in the heel, back down to the original 12/8 heel. This can be corrected by making accomodation models or using a CAD system that allows you to control various grade points and create your own grade rules to override what the last lathe does.

As for the widths, these are arbitrary numbers when it comes to custom footwear anyway. The rule of thumb is to say that the widths grade as follows:

LENGTH: from the master width (B on wms, D on mens), no shortening as you get narrower and a grade in length of 1/24" per width as you get wider.

WIDTH: from the master width (B on wms, D on mens), 1/16" narrower or wider per width....the two dimensional ball to ball measurement is what I'm talking about here.

GIRTH: from the master width (B on wms, D on mens), lots of "standards" on grading the girth from width to width but generally, from the master, up or down 1/4" one width on either side and then, up or down 3/16" per width after that no matter how far you grade. Like I said, lots of so called "standards" so nothing's carved in stone here.

Hope that helps and didn't confuse everyone.

Bill

Bill,Erick
Thanks for those explanations as I will mull over them until they become rational in my head.
Ed

Bill,
Thank you for the explanation of the widths. I don't think I've ever had it explained so well.

I wish I could remember where I read it- it might have been in something, someone from the Forum wrote, but I think using Eighths for heel heights has to do with the optimal thickness of each layer of leather used to build up the heels.

It makes more sense when thought of from that perspective.

Erick

Erick,

Never heard the leather layer theory but it makes a lot of sense.

Bill

Hi all,

I'm a NYC-based shoe designer who wants to learn how to make lasts by hand. And also on CAD/last making programs on a computer, but I'd like to learn the good old-fashioned way first.

Can anyone suggest to me who I might contact in order to do an internship or apprenticeship with a last maker? I will consider any geographic location.

Or...is there a school somewhere that teaches how to make a last? I'm sure I could find a last making school in Italy but thought I would try the US first.

Or...does anyone know anyone at Jones and Vining who could hook me up with someone to learn from?

Thanks a million!

Elizabeth
hotfoot7@earthlink.net

Elizabeth:

Have you already looked at Larry Waller's website http://www.walrusshoe.com ? If not, see the book
section for a book on making lasts.

Michael

Jim Bowman was trying to sell some lastmaking equipment a few months ago; I believe he posted on this site. Perhaps he could teach you?

If you find someone, please post the info here. I'd love to have this information as well.

Lance

I can duplicate any last that you have. If you have an old wooden last. I can duplicate it without the expense of sand casting and be more accurate. Then I can digitize the duplicate and make size runs on my last lathe.

Don,

Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. It's always good to have someone interested in lasts chime in. It's good to know people are interested in carrying on the "Trade" of Lastmaker.

I wonder if I can ask you a question or two....What kind of last lathe do you have? Is it new? Where did you get it?

How long have you been building lasts? Where did you get your training?

Without divulging any "secrets" how do you digitalize the lasts? I know know it is done in theory but isn't the software expensive and Don't you have to have some sort of proprietary scanner?

I have some old (1880's ?) "coffin toe" lasts that are pretty well "pegged out." Can you make a new model...without the fracturing and canyons on the plantar surface? Can you grade up or down from there?

Sorry for all the questions...I'm a bootmaker and have no interest in changing trades at this late date but although these questions are asked out of curiosity for the most part, some are questions that I would ask anyone I would want to deal with.

Anyway...like I said welcome...we can always use more insights into the last.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

I am a Bluegrass entertainer looking for a boot sponser. If anyone is interested please contact me
at my e-mail address and i will give you my web site address. I have several endorsments for other items on my site


Thanks

Are we talking Uncle Josh Graves here? The same Josh graves that picked up with Flatt and Scruggs et.al? The Dobro playing Josh Graves?
Can't be too many J. Graves with a liking for bluegrass. Less he was your father?
Just wondering.
More power to ya picks.
T.

Found this source on my recent trip. I've had no dealings with them, but thought I might pass it along:

www.spenle.de

Their website says "under construction", but you can still navigate around it and see their lasts, etc.

I am desperately looking for a few sets of wooden cowboy boot lasts. My father is retired, and he made cowboy boots years ago (in the 1940's and 1950's) and would like to make boots for the grandkids.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
cc

Plastic Ladies shoe lasts Wanted!!

I am looking for modern hinged plastic ladies shoe lasts in a 2" heel and flats, size 9 and 9½, wide. I am interested in various toe styles, the more contemporary the better.

Please contact me at HistCloth@aol.com

Nick Sekela
HistCloth@aol.com

Tumbleweeds a blowin'??

The cold wind whistling through my posting feels like the set of an old Clint Eastwood Western!

I tried contacting Jim Bowman, as I would be interested in buying his last making equipment, but unfortunately, his equipment was sold.

The E-mail address listed on Larry Waller's website bounced back.

Is there any source for modern lasts?

NJ Sekela
HistCloth@aol.com