The Crispin Colloquy

I try to upload a picture.. So, this is a new bespoke shoe from my workshop. I hope you like it, even if its very simple.

This is my first pair of shoes with outsoles stitched with a curved needle stitcher. The stitcher still needs tuning, so it didn't go so well. But it wasn't a total disaster. It's really hard to figure out when some of the parts on your machine weren't really correct for that model. There are about 10 other things I would do improve too, but I'm making progress.

For your eyes only, This one is my own shoes, Light welted. Thin Canvas backed and calf lining.

(Message edited by dearbone on November 08, 2007)

Here is the completed version of the shoe I posted a little while back. It has my first effort at a beveled, fiddleback waist. The beveled part worked out okay, the fiddleback waist doesn't really show up, despite my skiving of the outsole. I guess I need to skive the outsole more deeply and/or perhaps put more shape to the shank underneath the outsole. In addition to skiving the outsole, I reduced the thickness of the welt by about 50% in the waist.

Leather is a tan boar hide, horween horse butt welting, an Italian leather outsole.

The edge finishing leaves alot to be desire -- I only use hand tools and clearly have to work on refining my techniques and making sure everything is truly flat, file, sanded, glassed, etc before I do the burnishing, ironing, and so on.





(Message edited by lancepryor on November 12, 2007)

\image[shoes.]
Here is a pair I made for the sisters, If all goes well, I will be making 14 pairs for a fashion show in march. It will pay the hydro bill for the cold canadian winter.

It is a pair I made for the sisters, If all goes well i will be making 14 pairs for an upcoming fashion show in March, It will pay the cost of hydro for the cold canadian winter.
Nasser

(Message edited by dearbone on November 15, 2007)

Here's a pattern test of a simple sandal for a polyurethane bottom. Full grain pig flesh up for the insole boards. Calf skin uppers with full grain pig grain-to-the wearer linings.

Georgene

I just finished these men's shoes. They are my 4th welted pair. The inseaming went very well and my seam line turned out beautifully straight. I'm much happier with my folded edges and toe puff is almost undetectable.

I continue to be frustrated by the 'K' curved needle stitcher. But I'm sure I can get that technique worked out eventually.



My big issue is that the welt just looks crappy. the top has a papery look, the wires are too bulgy and pronounced, from the top. Although they look OK from the side.

I made the welt from horse and dyed the top black with Lincoln dye, prior to inseaming. I'm not so concerned about the tan leather showing through. I'm sure that could be touched up. The skin side top of the welt just seems too fragile by the time I get to stitching it to the outsoles.

If anyone has pointers on how to make the top of the welt look crisp and professional, I'd love to hear them.


(Message edited by romango on November 19, 2007)

Dear Brothers of the Full Cut,

Well, This makes three pair! I got these full cuts finished a couple of weeks ago.


I guess I've met the qualification for a craftsman. At least if the definition is still 'one who can hide his mistakes'.
When I was making the counters for this pair, for some reason, still unclear to me, I added an extra 3/4" to the lasting allowance on the counter. I stitched it up and had it lasted before I pulled my head out of a dark place. It wouldn't drop down on the last as it should when hoisting!
After confering with DW, I decided to take the boots apart and investigate. Sure enough, that was the problem.
So, a new counter, hand stitched side seams, and nobody will ever know the difference. And look at the fit.


I was a little concerned because the vamps seemed to open up too much, as if loosing some of the crimp, and the boots had a tilt backwards.
But that problem seemed to disappear too. The side seams aren't as straight as I'd like, but that's a small trade off for the disaster I was facing. I sure was in a panic for awhile.

Another pair is coming up in a few months.

Paul

in the background: a 100 year old shoemaker's book - my latest acqusition from Internet.

(Message edited by Marcell on November 24, 2007)

Remember the so called desert boots, Now the the desert is the home of my father ancestors, my prophets and a whole bunch of other noble and wicked things, So I thought to myself who is more deserving to recast the desert boots, sewn with our shop especialty, Made for a customer who only orders same boots and these ones are his 5th.

After having watched the forum for a long time, with little participation, I think it´s time to show some of my work.
I've been making english style riding boots for several years, as a hobby, just for me and someone else. Up to now I've made some 10 pairs, and only now I think they start to resemble a real pair of boots.
I'm sorry for my bad english, being this the main cause why I don't write too much here. But you may believe that most of what I know (what isn't too much) I've learnt it here. And I'm absolutely grateful for all those who share they knowledge in the group.

well...I´ll post the pictures as soon as I can learn how to...

(Message edited by angel on November 26, 2007)

For Angel Barcelo...




proxpo

Two other older pairs.

Brown cow suede

Dark brown crome tanned cow, aniline died, full grain.

Here are some dance shoes I just finished. This started out as an academic project to see how fast I could make a pair of dance shoes, starting with last and pattern in hand.

The leather is off the bargain table at Oregon Leather for $15 a side (the good stuff!). It's cheesy, plascity, liziard pattern cow. I didn't fold or finish the top line or quarter edges and it's just a glue on sole.

As I progressed, I noticed my cheesy leather is pretty tough stuff and might be a pair of dance shoes that I actually would like. So, instead of putting on a suede sole and crepe heel, I ended up using thin soling leather and making a stacked heel, which slowed me down considerably.

There's just no way around taking some time and fussing over the bottom and heel finish work with this approach.



So, the answer is... 15 hours.

I just sliped the last out of this pair, The sole stitch thread is buried under a lip in the welt, The buttons were supplied by a wonderful lady from Texas.
Nasser

Here is a close up, I need to invest in a DSLR for better close ups. Ed, real vintage shoe buttons are hard to find, and I do not know if anyone making them at this time.

Here is a better close up.

Here's a photo of a packer boot I finished last week. It's made of bull hide from Charles Hardtke. Pull Holes are dark brown Roo. These started out to be a work boot with rubber sole but, I was able to get the customer to go with leather sole and dress them up a little.

Mike

it seems I repeat myself - I made the same design I uploaded a week ago, with double sole, and english sewn technology.

Test Post.These were made in 1993.The last were built up in the clip,instep,ball,toe with a metatarsal support.I am looking to do 2 new pair of wellingtons using Dick Andersons crimp boards.Fred - (was unable to post photo - can anyone help? - unsure of directions to adding attachments.) Thank you

(Message edited by Fred coencped on December 03, 2007)

Hello. It has been a long time. Hope this finds everyone well and happy. Thought I would post the Dwight Yoakam portrait we completed sometime ago.
It’s titled Strummin’ Still - 475 pieces - 27 colors

Take care
Randy

These are the pictures of Randy and Claudia Lister's Dwight Yoakum piece.

Here's a close-up.

Thank you Lisa. You're awesome.

Randy