The Crispin Colloquy

Rick,

I got the screw and handle from Woodcraft.com. It's really heavy and long- 1.25" diameter.

Lee Valley carries a smaller screw, but it has a mounting plate mortised to the end that would need to come off, somehow. I think the Lee Valley one might be too short, but the diameter of the threading would be more manageable and consistent with other last vises.

To get a spring big enough to sheath the screw, I had to order from McMaster-Carr and cut it down to an appropriate length.

Erick

All,
I've been enjoying reading in this Forum for a while, and today I saw some postings from last July with regards to edge irons. I'll need to go find the boxes, but I have a bunch of these old hand tools that I got from relatives of a deceased Italian shoemaker out of Brockton, MA I will get them layed out to photograph, and post in near future. There are some I have an idea what they are for, some I ain't got a clue. Then let me know if you want them.
Best,
Tim

My friend just bought a 2nd hand "Rafflenbeul Lockstitch sewing Machine DN65", buy don't know how to adjust it, and need to buy some spare parts.
Can some one help?

Alexander,

I use a Rafflenbeul lockstitch, don't know the model, for stitching soles onto our theatre work.

I will check to see if the number is the same.

What seems to be the problem?

The DN, and OBE machines are quite similar and most parts can interchange. They all use the same pinion and whirl. The best whirl's are made for the fallon and interchange with the OBE and DN. The fallon whirl has a concave top surface which greatly reduces needle breakage. The main consideration is in the handling of the shoe. These machines work best when sewing slightly down hill. All the needles for these are made by Groz in both regular and long. Let us know what the problem is as these machines can be pretty trouble free with the right thread and shoe handling.
Tom

Thanks Jon and Tom.
His DN65 has a part broken, was replaced by a "handmade steel spring" by the seller, since no parts are available in Hong Kong. But he don't know what that parts called, also don't know where can get it. The seller also gave him a lot of cotton thread, it doesn't seem right, so what is the right thread?
My English is not good, especially when talk in technical thing, hope you could understand what I am saying.

I want to post the pics, so it may be more easy to understand. But don't know how to upload it, anyone can help?

The best thread to use is a right twist 277 braided or if you can't find it a bonded poly. if you use cotton it should be right twist and run thru a wax pot with stitching wax such as Frankels. If you use cotton or linen dry it will break, to be perfectly honest you can use almost any thing for a bobbin thread. I belive Gateway shoe machinery has parts for most lockstitch mckays in stock or can get them. I will find some more suppliers when I get into the shop tommorow.
Tom

I have been thinking about these last knifes. I know that there are a fair number of blacksmiths in the Brasstown NC area, (home of JohnCampbell folk school) They have a major blacksmith program there. www.folkschool.org. If someone wants a knife built, I would start at the school. But, I was thinking,(which is sometimes dangerous for me)If someone took a machete, added a hook, and extended the handle, would that not do the trick?
John Lewis

John:

I think one issue is the necessary thickness of the blade. In the case of the knife I photographed, I think the thickness at the top of the blade is perhaps 3/4 inch, in other words very substantial. These are used to pare/slice the wood off of very hard wood, so I wonder whether a machete blade would be rigid enough and tough enough. Furthermore, these blades are either chisel ground or hollow ground (not sure which) -- is that the case with machetes, or are they sharpened on both faces? Finally, it may well be the proper tempering/hardness of the metal might need to differ for the last knife versus a machete. As mentioned previously, I think a draw knife is more in the ballpark. I have contacted a fellow who hand-forges draw knives, and he can make a last knife if I supply the specs -- I'll update the colloquy when I get more info.

Lance

Lance,

I commissioned my cutom pen knives (real pen knife to cut the quill for writing) and chisel from Cape Forge, they also make draw knife, may be you can also contact them.

Alexander:

Thanks.

I have contacted the fellow below and may well go with him, if I move forward on this front. It seems like his draw knives are dimensionally pretty close to what I might need -- very thick, tough blades.

http://www.barrtools.com/

Lance

Lance,

I might be interested in a last blade too. Let me know what you come up with for design and price.

- Rick

Rick:

He indicated the price would be similar to his large draw knife, which seems reasonable to me. I am awaiting a tracing of Terry's knife, at which time I hope I'll be able to provide specfications.

I'll post when I know anything more.

Lance

Does anyone know what this is? It was made by Snell and Atherton, which reportedly made shoemaking tools. The blade can be adjusted vertically, and the copper guide on the top can slide in its channel. The copper guide on the side rotates on a pin, and can be removed. I am intrigued yet puzzled...any theories?


(Message edited by holly on February 02, 2010)

Looks like a welt edged trimmer... but I'm just guessing.

It looks like a tool for cutting into the side edge of a sole for stitching.

I have on some thing like it. I think Jon is right

Thanks for the input.
I tried it on a loose sole, and it did make a consistent cut.
Forgive a foolish question, (perhaps I misunderstand) but when would one cut and stitch the SIDE edge of a sole?

Holly,

I need to cut or trim the side edge of the sole (black), so that it is the even distance from the shoe upper that I like.

Then I stitch down through the sole (black stitches)


Hope this helps.

- Rick

Ah! It does. My brain was calling that the top edge...It all makes sense now, and it's very exciting.
Rad.
Thanks!
Holly

Any ideas on what this old tool is. I was told that it may be used for crushing fruit for making preserves. It is placed inside a wooden frome that may be placed over a barrel. It has a large crank handle on the other side. The cast iron gears have a spring loaded mechanism built into a slot in the wooden housing so that they will move to allow for more space between the two crushing parts if there is more resistance there.

I say it's for crushing either grapes or other fruits prior to fermentation for making wine, cordials or brandy. I think cider presses have more teethish rollers. Just my opinion.
Georgene

I totally forgot to update on my last vise- since I've finally used it, I'll post some pictures of the mounting and such.

As I mentioned, I mounted the vise at a 45 degrees to the bench- this is to allow better access to the work on a standard bench top height. This wouldn't be a problem if it was mounted to a low bench as with the block knife in Lance' photo:

I'm not 100% happy with the mounting- it has a bit too much play and bounces when I torque the handle upwards. If I'd mounted it 90 degrees to the bench, it would have been a lot more stable- the accessibility is a worthwhile trade-off.

I had a bit of trouble getting the quantity of felt that I needed at a good price, so I went ahead and lined the jaws with leather- I used bits of heel strip:


Overall, I'm quite pleased with how well it holds wood lasts. Unfortunately, plastic lasts like to slip a little if you're not careful to tighten down really hard.

(Message edited by erickgeer on February 20, 2010)

Sorry, different camera- pictures were way too big.

Here are the working jaws:


Erick

Eric,

I sure admire what you've done and are doing there. I wish I had the space and time to carve my own lasts.

A small suggestion from the peanut gallery...wouldn't bonding about 6 layers of four ounce cream cow (with the flesh side outward on the last layer)on each jaw in place of the heel strip leather work better? I would think you'd end up with something with many of the same characteristics as felt but denser, and less slippery.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member