Shoe machines

[Lisa Cresson]

On another note, I am looking for an Apex channel cutter from USMC, the small table top unit if anyone sees one out there. The NYC area is pretty dried up of those machines.

[tomo]

Hey all,
Thanks to David Kilgour, I've got the chance to buy a Landis, but I've never seen one and only know what I know about them from your various postings. How do I find the model number and what are the purtinant questions I need to ask?
Hopefully I've enclosed the picture.

3745.jpg

More Power to y'awl
T.

[dw]

Tom,

They're all on "retreat"...AGM is this weekend, no telling what dark, druidic rituals preoccupy them during this late Autumn ritual. Sure hope they're having fun...wish I were there.

Seriously though, that's a pretty nice looking machine. It's a beast though isn't it?

The model number is right there on the top of the machine just below the lamp and just to the left of the word "Landis." "12" is the model number...Landis model 12 and this is an "L"--right there on the lower half on the cabinet door....so you've got a Landis Aristrocrat model 12 L.

First, you need to ask why David is selling it. Then you need to see it run. You need to examine the stitch. Make sure the lock is in the center of the material and tight on both sides. Stitch a section with the knife down and see if it will drop stitches in the channel. Change stitch lengths and stitch with it. When's the last time it was thoroughly cleaned. Does it come with an operator's manual...this is extra important for you, since you're not familiar with the machine. Ask for extra awls and hooks (needles). Ask for a short tutorial on how to operate it--how to change out the awls and the needles.

It looks to be a good'n, What are you gonna pay for it? In US dollars? If it runs and sews well, and you can get it at reasonable price, you'll have a beaut.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

(Message edited by dw on October 23, 2005)

[Brian C. Thomas]

Tom the PIC of the Landis L you posted shows that it has the lock to stop stitching the last stitch when the foot pedal is raised, it stops the machine. I have only seen one so I do not know if this is a rare?



“Riding for the Brand”
Brian C. Thomas

[tomo]

Thanks guys,

DW, David's not selling it, he put me on to it. It's come up for auction on a local site here. The machine is about an hours drive away. The buy now price is $US680, but I suspect the reserve price is a little less than this.

Hey Brian, good to hear from you too man. The machine is the first Landis I've ever seen here (although there would have to be others I guess) so I have nothing to compare it with.

I hope they're all having a fantastic weekend, it's Labour weekend here too - 8.30am Monday morning, which is probably quite appropriate for the CC annual.

Thanks for your valued input fellas, I'm going to see if I can't physically look at the machine tomorrow and check it out. The auction ends tomorrow evening.

More power to y'awl(s)
T.

[dw]

Tom,

If you can pick that machine up for anything under US$1000.00, do it. Buy now if you have to. If it's in anything like good shape, it's probably worth five times that much.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[tomo]

Hey DW and Brian,
I shot from the hip and bought that Landis for the 'Buy now' price.

I went and saw it this afternoon, but I could'nt see it going as it hasn't been used for 3 years -as they don't do enough of that work anymore the stitching is sent over to another shop in Wellington.

Anyway there are heeps of awls, needles and some feet and blocks of wax as well as the manual. There wasn't a lot of hardened wax over it but enough to make moving bits hard work.

All said and done I'm happy with it. The original owner purchased it new in 1957 (which was a great year) and I know him. He has retired about 20 minutes drive from my place.

Thanks for the confidence to go for it guys.

More power to y'awl (way more!)
T.

[UK2TX2CA]

If anyone in the Richmond, Kentucky area is looking for an auto soler, eBay has one currently Item number 6257727382

[tomo]

On Thursday I'm going to pick up a Sigma brand Leather splitter

4024.jpg

I'm familiar with and have used extensively a Camoga splitter.
Now the Sigma looks very similar to the Camoga, except the Camoga I used had a 300mm (12&#34 cut, while the Sigma is a 400mm (or 16&#34cut.
I was wondering if anyone had an idea of the weight. The Camoga 400 weighs about 480kg or a shade over 1000lb.
Don't know how those little icons got there, this is serious.

More power to y'awl
T.

[dw]

Tom,

That looks like a band splitter!! Man, am I jealous. I guess I shouldn't be, though, I had a member offer me one at a very good price...I just didn't have room for it or any way to get it to my shop (2000 miles ? away) and passed it up. If this baby is in good working condition, you'll love it I'm sure.

[ya can't put a double quote immediately next to a right parentheses...for some reason (it's gotta be a very minor bug), the program interprets it as a smiley. Leave a space between the quote and the parentheses.]


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[halfpint23]

Here is a listing with a lot of interesting things - leather sewing machines of many types, some shoe machinery, lotsa good looking stuff! I don't know who this is, nor have I asked prices, as I'm so broke I can't pay attention right now
Hopefully someone will find something useful and affordable.
http://www.oldcowpoke.com/

Scroll across the bottom of the page to view all the many thumbnails..... COOL!

Kate

[shoestring]

I don't know what happen to the first post but here goes again.What's the difference between a 236W100 & 236G120 Singer post machines,and can most sewing machine heads fit into most flat bed tables?

Ed

[tomo]

Hey Ed.
A lot of Singer machines will fit in other beds and visa versa, but Pfaff can be too narrow (and longer) for some beds.
You'd probably need to measure the machine to make sure, especially if you were buying one from a distance.
My post machine is a Pfaff but I'm not familiar with the Singers above so I can't help with there specs sorry.
More power to y'awl.
T.

[relferink]

Ed,

I can not comment on the difference since I'm not familiar with the specific on the 236 variations. The singer 236 all have the same base frame. I own a 236W125. It had a lining trimmer that I temporarily removed, I did that 5 years ago and I'm fine without it. Mine has bottom and top transport. As far as I know this machine will fit into the “standard” singer table, As Tom mentioned Pfaff is different as I recall. If your considering buying one of them I can tell you it's a good machine. I'm happy with my 236W125 but not quite like the Pfaff 491. Sorry I can't help you any further

Rob

[tomo]

I've stripped my ASN down completely and I'm cleaning everything and replacing parts that look too worn. I've repainted it with Hammerglaze paint -colours might not be 'true to label' but that's OK. It was SERIOUSLY sick but looks complete going by the parts manual.

What I need to know is, what size needles and awls and thread am I likely to want, say for boots and maybe some general sewing ( not that It'll be used for anything other than boots but you just can't tell...)
Also, do Pilgrim carry the Solari(sp) wax a lot of you use, do I need to use a wax or can I run it dry?

More power to y'awl
T.

[tmattimore]

Tom
I have used 4 cord bobbin and 5 cord top at 7 spi to stitch side seams for years. I use a 6 awl and a 5 needle. If you use linen you need a wax. I use Frankels stitching wax. it cleans up much easier. If you use nylon use oil for a lube but keep your strippers tight. The ASN prefers linen as nylon will cut a groove in the thread lock block quite quickly. I used to sew outsoles on it but you will have a hard time doing repairs if the welt is sanded too close to the upper. It does not like to do a full welt as the shaft of the boot gets in the way of the head.
Tom

[big_larry]

Ed and Robert,
Pardon me for stepping in but I just coulsn't help myself. After an on-going gun fight with a Union Special, I purchased two Singer 236 used roller foot machines. The first on arrived with the hand wheel broken off after a tumble en- rout and the second one has not arrived yet. Both are G made in Germany, models. I haven't been able to get a manuel yet and would like to offer anyone a modest fee for a copy. I have a Singer walking foot that I am using, however, it does not like to turn corners without dropping a stitch. While I am writing this insertion, I have one jem of wisdom I would like to share. It is absolutely manditory to become a sewing machine mechanic to be in the boot making business. If I hired a mechanic every time I have had a problem I could have been able to afford to hire my own beet maker. I had a class of adjusting the machine while I was in boot school. It only served to teach me how much I did not know. I wish you well and thank you for tolerating me. Larry Peterson

[tomo]

Cheers Tom, thanks for that.
I've got a Landis Curved Needle as well, but the ASN wasn't being used and if it can't be used then it's really just junk - although nice junk

The thread lock block is very smooth but the screws that hold the thread wipers are grooved really badly, maybe the lock block has been replaced.

Larry,
if the machine is missing stitches when you turn a corner, then the timing might be out - try loosening the needle bar clamp screws and lowering the needle bar a fraction ie 1/64"+/- and try that. Or try a bigger needle. The work might be turning the thread loop that forms just as the needle comes up away from the bobbin hook, or try turning the needle around a smidgen so that the hook catches the loop easier.
There are several reasons why a machine will do this and it is annoying.

If no one here has a Union manual try www.proleptic.net

more power to y'awls
T.

[dw]

Tom and Tom,

I use an ASN for sideseaming boots and use dacron 6 cord...something like that. Naturally with the heavier thread I also use a heavier awl and hook.

I run Selari's liquid wax in the wax pot.

I would stay away from nylon if I were you as nylon will stretch and you will have a hard time getting the stitches to lock. At least I have and several others I've talked to have also.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[danfreeman]

Larry
On skipping a stitch when turning corners: try putting just the point, not the eye, of the needle into the leather when you've reached the corner; then raise the presser foot, turn the work, lower the foot back down--then, turn the handwheel over and make the stitch, and continue on.

[big_larry]

Dan & Tom I really appreciate the help. I am working on the problem, assuming the problem isn't me. Today I have been fitting a Singer 236-120 post with roller onto a table that was designed for a Union Special. I baught a Singer 236G131 post with roller from Mac's for parts. I am a "heavy Lunch" type guy and my wife told me I reminded her of a beached whale rolling around on the floor under the machine.

I went to a servo variable speed on the walking foot and I sure like it. I really appreciate help from you folks and I think in time I will get the hang of it. Right now I have a lot of peices cut and ready to assemble as soon as I get these machines tweeeked. I found the referal to Mac's on this colloquy. That machine arrived with the wheel/pully smashed. It is pressed into the end bearing. It is 2 degrees outeside, the laquer in my crimping boards isn't drying properly and I discovered that a magnetic tray is a must for sewing machine parts.

I want to make western and packer boots, not be a mechanic. I think I am babeling. I wish you well and keep those wonderful boots comming. Please don't hesitate to give me counsel with these problems. It really helps.

Again, thank you for your help and for tolerating me!
Larry Peterson

[tomo]

Hay Larry,

It's good if you can do that stuff yourself as it increases your confidence and understanding as to how things work and what might be causing a particular problem.
Dan's advice is also good. The other way is to 'make the catch' ie the needle is just on its way up and then you can turn the work. Sometimes you might overshoot and have the needle too far in if this happens just catch it on the way up.

One of those magnetic trays sounds great, My ASN is in a zillion bits - I need to get it back together before I forget what's what.

More power to y'awl
T.

[tmattimore]

Ace hardware sells a magnet on a 30" wooden handle, very handy for sewing machine repair.
Tom

[tommick]

Larry, I also have a Singer 236G120 and it works just great. It's almost impossible to make it skip a stitch. I also changed my motor out to a servo and that really makes it a dream machine. I had to resolve 2 problems when I first got my machine. The roller foot was running on one edge of the roller and I fixed that with a carefully placed shim. Also, the lifter on the back of the machine would get stuck in the up position. I got ahold of a parts manual and found that my machine was missing a spring so don't assume anything when you are trying to track down problems. BTW - I e-mailed you 3 pdf manuals and hope that you received them because they were pretty big files. Best of luck.

Tom Mickel

[j1a2g3]

Could someone tell me if it makes a difference if the sewing machine has a rollerfoot or not and why?

I am looking for a flatbed machine to sew patterns onto the upper and have seen both styles of machines. Thanks Joel