Books, Manuals, Publications

[bultsad]

Mrs V.
There is a pretty good chance your artist's name is Jon Crane. He is located in our neck of the woods, here in the Black Hills of South Dakota. He is very sought after artist and has quite a following in this area. You can check out his work or email him from his website... Jon Crane's site.
Jim

[dw]

All,

Thanks to Curt Gillock a Singer 45K sewing machine operator's manual is now available on my school website, in pdf format, for your downloading pleasure. 780kb

DW's School of Western Bootmaking

Go to "links" > "manuals" and the 54k manual will be at the bottom of the list. Enjoy.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[tomo]

I've acquired a Pfaff post machine, it's number is... 191-5-50-525/1A and there is an "L" under the model number. The machine feels great and as though it'll sew OK, but I don't know how to service it or what the 'other bits' to the right of the needle bar are - they swing out the way, and I presume one is a stitch guide. There is a lot to choose from when it comes to stitch size too, and also, in the bed under the post, there is a transmission - for the want of a better description - to select various gears.

I'm looking for a manual and other info, but any help would be greatly appreciated. I've contacted Pfaff, but I'm not holding out much hope as I realise it's an old machine, I checked out Proleptic but couldn't find anything on their list either.


happy New Year every one.
More Power to y'awl
T.

[tomo]

I've acquired a Pfaff post machine, it's number is... 191-5-50-525/1A and there is an "L" under the model number. The machine feels great and as though it'll sew OK, but I don't know how to service it or what the 'other bits' to the right of the needle bar are - they swing out the way, and I presume one is a stitch guide. There is a lot to choose from when it comes to stitch size too, and also, in the bed under the post, there is a transmission - for the want of a better description - to select various gears.

I'm looking for a manual and other info, but any help would be greatly appreciated. I've contacted Pfaff, but I'm not holding out much hope as I realise it's an old machine, I checked out Proleptic but couldn't find anything on their list either.

3825.jpg

3824.jpg

happy New Year every one.
More Power to y'awl
T.

[Lisa Cresson]

Back in print -- coveted footwear technology books

I noticed recently that at this link for ShoeTradesPublishing online that a number of books thought lost are back in print:
http://216.149.102.77/FootwearBooks.html

They include Mr. Adrian's "American Last Making" as well as Patrick's pattern cutting handbook.

I have not placed an order through the site, but thought the info was worth worth posting for those actively searching for quality footwear information in print.

I also saw "Handmade Shoes for Men" and the Sneaker Book discussing the phenomena of Nike on www.bookcloseouts.com. Fewer than 10 copies of each were listed at rock bottom low prices [OK by you DW?].

Happy 2006 to all!

[relferink]

Tom,

I’ve been away over the holidays and I’m just starting to catch up on the HCC board. I’m only 221 posts behind so I will randomly start posting as I feel appropriate.

On the Pfaff 191, I don’t personally know the machine but I once refurbished a 491 (without the help of a manual) and it was an awesome machine once done, for sure the best I ever had. Unfortunately I had no way of transporting it here to the states so it got sold.
From what I can find the 191 and 591 are very similar and the following files / manuals may help in case you haven’t found them yourself

191_591_0_81-78-3847.pdf*mime_pdf.gif*application/pdf*2499.6*parts+list+191+591*191+591+0+81%2d78%2epdf

This one is for the 591 but the schematic on page 21 looks very much like the picture you posted.

ba_570_10-04_e-3848.pdf*mime_pdf.gif*application/pdf*957.0*+Ba_570_10%2d04_e%2epdf*ba_570_10%2d04_e%2epdf

Rob

[tomo]

Hey Rob.
Thanks a lot man, that's just what I was looking for.

I have trouble following Pfaff's model codes but I think the gear to the right of the needle/wheel assembly is a binding attachment (although some of it's missing). The Pfaffs are a lovely machine to use alright.

I've got a brand new Consew 206RB5 flatbed arriving shortly (this week???) from the US so I'm looking forward to seeing how that goes.

Anyway, thanks again Rob.

More power to y'awl.

T.

[marc]

Shoemaking articles and handouts

I was recently reading the medievalshoemaking list and someone posted a handout that got me thinking. One of things I've got going on right now is that I'm the guild librarian for the HCC as well as the Special Collections librarian (at least for a while) here at the University of Tulsa. It's occurred to me that we're losing a great opportunity.

How many of us have written handouts, manuals, and so on that were written to be temporary, and once used were lost? I know *I* have. The first version of the "Footwear of the Middle Ages" was a handout that soon became a small booklet, then became the website, and I no longer have copies of either the original handout or the booklet. That may not sound like a great loss to you, and certainly I don't lose any sleep over it – however, it's unfortunate that at some point future scholars will have lost that opportunity to see the progression of how we have been relearning, teaching, and trying to preserve this trade.

So, what I am suggesting is that if any of you have such ephemera (that's archival jargon for stuff that wasn't written to last forever), or of articles that you have written and would like to be sure that they survive, I am setting up a collection of such material for the HCC library. Go ahead and contact me by private email and we can talk about it.

Please note that this isn't just for the medieval stuff either.

I will be reposting this elsewhere, and you should feel free to do so if you know of anyone who might be interested, but isn't on this list.

Marc

[Jeremy Richardson]

Hello all!

New to all this, I have been a Civi War reenactor for years, decided to put down the musket, and pick uo the head knife. I have found little resource for the field of accouterment making in which I am interested. Can anyone give me some direction-books, sights tools?

[ttex]

Tom

I was looking in on the group and saw your post about the pfaff. I'm working on finding everything that I'll need to start up after my journeymans test. This is a site I was given from one of our suppliers. I have not contacted them yet, but they might have the parts and info you need.

http://www.sieck.de/

There are al sorts of feeds for cutters and ribbons that are sewn on. I'll bet that is what the extra parts are.

good luck.
CW

[tomo]

Chris thanks for that.

I had a look... I've never heard of half those machines man.
I think you're right about the attachment, I figured, if I don't know what it is or how to use it then it's no use to me, so I whipped it off. And guess what? The machine goes just fine.
Thanks Chris.

Yesterday I picked up an American Straight Needle - must be the only one in the country, and I need a manual for one and also some parts ie needles, awls etc. Where's the best place to go (don't say hell)? Is Landis Latendre in Canada the only choice?
I've searched through a lot of the posts, but most of the discussion is for curved needle machines.

More power to y'awl.
T.

[dw]

Tom,

Pilgrim [ http://www.pilgrimshoemachine.com/ ]probably has everything you need for your ASN...parts and needles/awls, certainly.

A manual may be found here: http://www.proleptic.net/sewing.asp

I'd photcopy mine and put it on my website for free but it's so faint...and so greasy...I'm certain it wouldn't be very useful.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[guy_shannon]

Hello Tom and DW.

This link has a ton of suppliers from the Shoe Service Institute of America. I hope it helps.

http://www.ssia.info/industry/wholesalers.shtml

Guy Shannon

[tomo]

Guy,
Thanks for that, I've not heard of them before. I've stuck it in my Favorites and I'll go through it again.

DW, I'll get one through Proleptic, It's just going to take a week to ten days to get here, and I thought a PDF one would satisfy my need for instant gratification

I hadn't though of Pilgrim either, when the manual arrives I'll go over it and see what parts I need. At the moment there's no needle and the needle screw is munted, I suspect when the last needle busted they but it in the too hard pile. The machine looks pretty sad but I'll soon have it giggling it's little head off.

Do most people use them with Liquid wax or the poly braid thread, or just the linen?

More power to y'awl.
T.

[dw]

Tom,

The ASN is a hook and awl machine--I'm sure you know this but just to clarify for our other reader. In any case, you have to install both.

I use thread lubricant in mine and Bulldog brand dacron thread--same as I'd use in my curve needle machine. I don't use liquid wax because I don't think it's needed for the work I do with my straight needle..ie., closing the sideseam on boots. I don't think liquid wax would be needed in harness or saddle work either...especially with dacron thread. But a word of caution, don't use nylon thread in it and don't use braided dacron either. The nylon will stretch and you'll never get a tight stitch and the braided will not cycle through the machine reliably. Linen is OK and if you want to fuss with the cleanup chores, using a liquid wax in that instance is probably the best idea as the wax will help to preserve the linen.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[sorrell]

My husband bought me DW's new CD "Bootmaker's Choice: Making the Full Wellington" for my birthday. My birthday isn't actually until Monday but he couldn't wait and gave it to me this morning. Hurray! It's exactly what I wanted! I can't wait to print it out and sit and read through it. I've made a couple of full wellingtons, so I'll be able to see all the things I was doing wrong!

Lisa

[dw]

Lisa,

Happy Birthday...on the 5th?

Enjoy...and don't hesitate to call me if you have any questions.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[j1a2g3]

I just recieved my christmas present today: "WESTERN BOOTMAKING; AN AMERICAN TRADITION" I'm SOOOOOOOO HAPPY :-)

I didn't think I would get it in time for Christmas but Santa came through. YEH!!!!!!!!

I can't wait to start reading it. (actually I've read 30 pages already)

Thanks DW for writing such and informative book.

[dw]

Joel,

You're welcome. I hope it helps and gives many years of satisfaction and service.

Merry Christmas.

4613.gif

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[tomo]

Jesse,
here's a link to a downloadable manual for your Singer 29-4, the '2' does seem to come later as Al suggests. Anyway this might be worth a squizz at

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/

More power to y'awl.
Tom.

[jesselee]

Tom

Good on ya mate. That will help. Seems as if the 2 model is a rarity! No wonder she jumped back to life after a gallon of penetrating oil and what seemed like forever for a restoration. No planned obsolecence there old son.
JesseLee

[jesselee]

To Y'all

Opinions needed here if y'all would think a book on 19th century techniques with lots of pictures of how to, tools etc. would fly. If so I can do this by summer. Of course hand bound in 19th. century style
JesseLee

[artzend]

I would like to let you know about a new book that I have just finished, called "Bespoke Shoemaking, A Comprehensive Guide to Handmade Footwear" and the website for the book at http://www.shoemakingbook.com .

It is a detailed instruction book for everyone, even beginners to learn to make shoes by hand. I was a practising bespoke shoemaker for 25 years and also taught shoemaking and this book is a culmination of that knowledge. There are 300 pages and 700 illustrations that cover everything from sharpening a knife to handsewn welted footwear.

The site lets you see much more detail than I can put here but I am available all the time if you wish to discuss any aspect of it with me.

[das]

Jesse,

"YES!" But do tell us more about the 1859 book you keep refering to...please.

[jesselee]

DA

This summer, I plan to tour around the country in my 'boot wagon' to visit the many fine boot/shoe makers here. I would be pleased to visit you and let you thumb through the old book. It was started in the 1850's and goes to 1890's. It is a kind of trade secret journal with descriptions of techniques, tools, preparation of leather, patterns, stitches and so forth. It's also hand bound by the original owner, apprentice bootmaker. I may consider having it published as it chronicles 50 or so years of bootmaking across the old west. Secrets such as 'waxed' leather, which nobody knows today are covered. I think you would be on the porch reading it reverently with a smile. YOU have to see it, if anyone. Perhaps we can set a time, do please email me. I also want to send you a pair of CW boots made precisely, ie. no modern glues or dye, everything exact. I know you will get a smile on that. Book also has some stories, like the Mexican boots I am copying and a few done for outlaws. It's just a mixture of pure history, not a consecutive read, it jumps around, being hand written and all.

JesseLee

jesseleecantrell@yahoo.com