The Crispin Colloquy

i am looking for parts or maybe a good shop to send my 29-4 to for a rebuild. i have a leather shop that sews alot of biker pataches on leather and cloth also and i have a problem with skipping a few stiches. i need bobbin cases and a few other parts also.
thanks rick

I am looking for a Cam/Pulley (8661 or 81941)part for a Singer model # 29-4. This machine is great, but I broke the part. Anyone know where to look for one?
Tom

I am looking for a sewing machine to sew a soft cotton or polyster rope up to 1/2" diameter to a cloth using a cording foot, any feedback is requested..

I'd be most appreciative if someone here knows the solution to my stitching problem. The 42-5 Singer stitcher runs fine and makes a beautiful tight line of stitching on dry leather - BUT if there is a whiff of cement to hole layers together, it will invariably begin skipping two-three at a time, and then (of course) the lower thread will begin to make those nasty little balls....

Different leathers do not seem to be any difference, It's only when stitching through a glued up pieced that this happens. I've tried both the contact cement types, plain old rubber cement, and the white water-soluble leather glue (the stuff that dries clear and flexible), and they ALL have the same results.

Running a size 21 twist wedge point needle and 138 bonded dacron thread, cold or hot needle makes no difference. Stitching speed makes no difference - I am about ready to clean out the oil pot and try runnign the thread through some neatsfoot as Mr. Saguto delineates above!

I could just never glue up anything, but I really do like having things stay where I've fitted them while sewing..... difficult when managing larger pieces as in chaps...

Anyone know of a cement or glue that doesn't grab the needle quite so stickily (is that a real word?)??

Kate,
When ever that happens to me I rub white chalk along the stitcning line and continue to sew.The type chalk used on black boards,and sometimes you may need to rub it on top and bottom.Bardge cement does that when it has not had a long enough drying time on some articles drying time is over night.Just my 2 cents worth.

Ed

Hi Kate

I do a similar thing to Ed on my patcher and my Number 6. The problem arises if the cement hasn't had long enough to cure - which is usually the case because of your time constraints.

I made a little bag from light cotton material and fill it with corn flour, the top is tied with a piece of ribbon and it lives in a little box. I just go fop fop fop along the work as I sew.

You could use baby powder but what I use is cheaper, Having said that I haven't used it on wet leather though. You could also try a larger needle or get a candle and rub it on the needle every so often.


More power to y'awl.
T.

Kate,

I was really pleased to find that I can sew patches and whatever, much more quickly since using Duall #88 All Purpose Cement, which I get from Seigel's.

I haven't had problems like yours when using rubber cement, but this is certainly better anyay, because the bond is better. ANd it's clear, without all the fillers of Barge contact cement, that can leave that dirty trail where it's exposed. Try it.

Kate,

That machine was not designed to sew dry, but "wet". If you don't want to try my neatsfoot oil trick, try Solari's thread lubrucant.

It'll never feed linen thread "dry" without stranding, clogging the shuttle with lint, or other evil things. You can try nylon thread, but nylon has a tendency over time to cut grooves into the parts it flows though--and parts are non est these days.

Many Thanks!

to all who came to my aid both here on the list and in several kind private replies. I will try out a few new bonding agents, as well as the neatsfoot in the pot. I am going to hazard a guess I should pull the "tail" of thread and nest it in the pot when the machine is standing down, to preclude a mess from wicking oil I wonder what you get when the cornstarch and neatsfoot are mixed..... ugh, doesn't bear thinking about!

In all deference to Mr. Saguto, I don't even own any linen thread - it's all bonded dacron, impervious to horse sweat but not as nastily stretchy as nylon. I do worry about thread wear on machine parts that are made from unobtanium, too. At least the old Landis is all roller guides!

I've even pondered (on sleepless nights) applying teflon to some high-friction thread route points - you can get stick-on pads of the stuff for the bottoms of presser feet, made for sewing topstitching in sticky vinyls etc. It's a thought, maybe not a lucid one.

All the best to all of you, thanks again!

I'd like to share with others a couple of things that I've added to my shop that seem to work really well.

I changed out the motor on my general purpose sewing machine (236G120) for a servomotor. This is just working out so well. I can get a single stitch by tapping the pedal, I can easily change the speed by turning a knob and it stops on a dime. It's a little spendy but it is just working great for me.

Also just bought a used Aerostitch. I have been stitching sideseams by hand and I did my first boot with the Aerostitch in about 2 minutes. The seam is tight as heck. I had a compressor in my shop anyway so I just attached the Aerostitch to a board and set it on the end of a bench. It doesn't take up much room and I can move it myself by just picking it up. I guess that Tippmann isn't making them anymore but they seem able to supply parts easily. Doesn't seem to be many moving parts and that's always a plus. The power is extreme and it's super easy to single stitch when you need to. No electric motor windup for full power either.

Disclaimer: I have no association with any of the products mentioned except as a user.

Hi Tom,

I think servos are a great idea. A lot of the clothing manufactures use them because there's no noise (imagine 50 machines) and they just love the power savings.

Why did they stop making the Tippman, I thought they were a great idea.

More power to y'awl.
T.

Thomas,

Thanks for sharing some of your ideas. I've been wanting to try a servo, but other things have been standing in the way.

Pertaining to the sideseaming machine, I guess a Boss would do.....here's the link: Boss' Website

Thanks again!

Tom (Mickel):

The idea of the servo motor is intriguing. I am having trouble with my post-bed machine sewing too fast (at least relative to my ability to control it!). Can you indicate what brand of servo motor you bought, and where you bought it?

Thanks in advance.

Lance

Lance,

From what I've read, a servo motor would be ideal...I know I'd like to have one.

But if you don't have the wherewithal to buy and install a servo you might think about simply replacing your drive belt with a round leather belt. You need a little slippage in your belt and a "V" belt won't allow that.

I've been running quarter inch round leather belts on my machines for years and years. Of course, I also let my right hand rest lightly on the fly wheel as I sew but I can stop on a dime and sew one stitch at a time or go full bore whenever I want.

I once had a student who asked me about machines for top stitching when his seminar was finished. I recommended a 31 class machine...as I usually do. Unfortunately, he got "sold" a more modern knock-off of the 31 class and although that, in itself, might not have been so bad, it was equipped with a closed clutch motor and a "V" belt. Stopping in at his shop some years later, he mentioned he was having problems with his stitching...and indeed it seemed his work had not improved much since he had left my workshop. But when I sat down at his machine I realized why. I couldn't sew as well as he could on that machine. Poor guy had been fighting it and while you could say he was winning, it was at a terrible cost. The closed clutch motor was bad enough but just replacing the "V" belt helped incredibly.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

The decision to switch to a servo was slow in coming. I was having trouble at a couple of spots when stitching vamps on to top panels. I could always do it fine but I'd sometime have to stop and do a single stitch by rotating the flywheel by hand - which is of course what we all do sometimes anyway. But I just prefer to be holding the workpiece at all times rather than fooling with the flywheel.

So, I added a speed reducer. This worked great but then I couldn't go fast when I wanted to and it was super hard to turn the flywheel with the speed reducer in place. Also, the machine with the speed reducer in place had tons of torque and I'd have to really brake hard to make sure that I'd stop stitching when I wanted to.

But truth be told, I'm kind of a high energy, jumpy kind of guy and having to worry about braking hard and having the motor running and making noise all the time makes me worse.

So let me tell you that now that I have a servomotor, I'm looking around for stuff to sew because it's such a pleasure. I've bought some heavy canvas and when I get a few minutes I'm going to make a couple of dog beds for my 100 lb. junkyard dog.

I can reach under the table from a sitting position and throw a switch to set the motor into high or low range and then I can turn a dial on the motor to adjust the speed within that range. The motor makes no noise when on - absolutely zero.

I have no affiliation in any way with this company or product but the brand is Artisan. I bought it new from an Ebay store. Now I just have to learn to not brake so hard and to turn off the motor since it doesn't remind me with any noise.

Sorry for the long post, regards.

I am thinking about picking up a Singer 236 post-bed machine for closing shoe uppers. I have a couple of questions that perhaps folks could answer.

1. Paul Krause -- several years ago you indicated that you had purchased a 236. Have you been happy with it?

2. Frank Jones (hi Frank!)-- I recall you writing some years ago that you think a machine with a needle positioning control is desirable. There are some 236's available in the market with this feature. Could you refresh my memory at to why these are desirable (sorry, I don't have my HCC/Crispin Colloquy CD-Rom handy to check your old post).

3. Any/all. Are the correct needles for these machines readily available, in the proper tip shapes?

4. Can anyone tell me what distinguishes the 236U from the 236G machines?

5. General comments as to the quality and user friendliness of the 236?

6. Other options include a Pfaff 568 or a Pfaff 9593. Anyone have any experience or recommendations regarding the different options?

Thanks.

Lance

Lance,

You called...
Paul Krause -- several years ago you indicated that you had purchased a 236. Have you been happy with it?

Yes, for the most part. A smaller needle hasn't dropped into my lap, tho. I have asked a couple different places and not pursued it very vigorously. I need a new bobbin case too, I think, as the one in the machine has seen too many miles of thread go by and has a groove, preventing me from tightening down on a size 46 thread for the bobbin. So I use 69 top and bottom and a size 16 tri-point needle. Apparently, that's all this machine has used for years. There's a sticker with 128x2-16 on the housing.

Right now all I'm using it for is stitching counters on back top panels. Don't get any calls for Packers, since I sell White's, that's what I wanted it for. So it's potential has yet to be seen. But I'm thankful to have it.

Good luck,

PK

Lance,

I have a 236 and am quite happy with it overall, but it does run fast. The various suffixes, like "U" and "G" have to do with attachments that came on the business end, like binding feeders, hemmers, etc.

Lance,

Good to hear your still out there. How are things going?
I have a 236W125, it came with a lining trimmer utility that I took off. I use it as my primary machine. I like the machine and it performs well but does not measure up the Pfaff 941. That machine has triple transport. You can almost sit back, relax and have a cup of coffee as the machine does the work. That said the Singer 236 has bubble transport and mine is nice an tight even though I got it used. Works well. I use a 69 thread top and bottom and a size 110 triangular point needle. I know Pilgrim in Quincy, MA sells the needles for them. Occasionally I use a little lighter tread and have no problem with it. I run into trouble with this machine if I try to fight it. If i want to do fancy things that cause tension on my work as I'm sewing I may skip some stitches. The default speed is fine for me, could be a little faster but I don't know if anything has been changed from factory default. It has a regular clutch motor. If for little extra money you can get the needle control version I would do so but the machine will work fine without.
I have a problem with the gasket under the post leaking some oil but that does not influence the performance of the machine. It leaks so little it probably adds up to a quart every decade or more, it just creates a nasty stain on the floor. I suspect that the prior owner did not keep the oil reservoir filled and after it running dry for some time it may have corroded the gasket. I cleaned it out very thoroughly when I bought it (something the old owner also did not do, it must have had 10 pounds worth of old needle points, thread pieces and goo) and it's been fine since.

I'm not familiar with the other Pfaff's you list but like I said before, on the post machines the 941 is a winner!

Hope this helps you finding a good machine.

Rob

I've used my Singer 236G120 for years, and I can honestly tell you I love it--almost all the time. Condition is everything, both as regards price, and value: you can buy them for as little as $100, for use as doorstops, but a new one, or one that was fully and reliably rebuilt, would go for $2000 or up, I'd guess.

The small, rounded post and the compound (top-and-bottom; no needle feed) feed make it easy to use, but are the machine's shortcoming, too. Tiny parts, crowded close together, and a truly Rube Goldberg belt drive system (FOUR belts) are all subject to wear and mis-alignment, more so than most other machines. Added to this, almost all of these machines have had a long, productive life in the factory, thousands of hours of continuous operation, often at the hands of careless operators.

It remains an excellent machine, if you can get a low-mileage one. Better, of course, are the truly beautiful Pfaffs: 471, 491, and others: a variety of very similar models, 1-needle, 2-needle, right hand post, left hand post, etc., with and without trimmers. I'd go for the right hand post, single-needle version, if I could: true compound feed, German engineering (although my 236G Singer was made in the Adler plant in Kaiserslautern). But I'd have to spend a lot more.

Another good choice is one of the new (or used)Juki post beds--cheaper than Pfaff, and, if new or nearly so, almost as good.

Dan

I have gone back through the archives and learned a great deal about sewing machines. I have a Singer Post 168G101 that is oging into the shop tomarrow for a tune up, table fitting and a new servo motor that I can slow down. I have a Union Special for upper flat work, however this machine hates me. And I hate it! Between timing, thread and needle selection, and pilot error, this machine has abused me to the point of "going postal." "I am not superstitious" This machine doesn't break the thread, it breaks part of the thread and wads up a curl. If I stop sewing and start again it makes a wadded nest and breaks the thread. The needle post pushed down and it would not make a full revolution without hitting the top on the thing above it. I checked the oiler and the oil leaked out on the floor after I failed to get the pan on tight. The little screws cross threaded. The oil smells rancid and I think maybe the machine is just trying to get an oil change. This is a challange now. I will drill and tap all the screw holes and give them new bolts. I wonder if anybody else has ever had sewing machine challanges like this or is it just me. My Singer does not do this to me. If any body has an opinion as to a solution, I would really like to hear your responce. My wife tells me I ought to just purchase a new machine. I am not quite ready to give up. I think this has become an obsession and I am headed for a delusion if I cant win! Door stop or continue the battle?

Thanx, Larry Peterson

Larry!
Have you seen the movie Christine by Stephen King?
You should get it out.
More power to y'awl.
T.

T. I will make it a priority item to check out Christine.

On the marrow I will plug in the clamp-on-light and place it so I can see what is going on inside the "Union Special."
At this point I really do not know how to time the machine or set up the needle, but I will learn, even if it kills the machine. I will also watch the needle post and get the needle to intersect the loop from the bobincase. I have read a great deal from the archives and I want to thank all of you who do know what you are doing, with these machines and have shared that knowledge. One entry by Tight Stitches was very detailed and I hope the data will cross over on to my machine. Now! If anyone is willing to volunteer to give instruction I am listening and I am grateful for your being willing to share your information. Today I spent the day in Salt Lake City, about 130 miles from my home, and visited two repair shops. They did not tell me much even though both offered to tune the machine if I would bring it in to them.. I can see right now that a bootmaker (not bootlegger) has to learn to tune their own machines or else spend most of their time on the highway running back and forth to the repair shop. If you do choose to offer any counsel, please use simple terms as I am just a bit simple minded. I know that many of you have paid dearly in time and frustration to get to the point where you can intelligently discuss the technical aspects of the trade. For your information, I appreciate you sharing and letting me be a recipient of that time and effort.

Thanx,

Larry Peterson

Hey DW!
I've got the manual for the ASN and it shows you the parts alright, but not the order they go in
Better get my skates on before I forget where the bits go.
I don't think this machine has ever been cleaned or serviced.
More power to y'awl.
T.

Tom,

Geez, you're a brave man!! I don't think I've ever seen an ASN stripped down that far...it's scary!

I hope you numbered everything as you took it apart. I know that machine pretty well but I'd be flummoxed silly at this point.

Good luck!

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member