The Gallery
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Re: The Gallery
Debated where to put this but in order to provide the easiest access, I decided this would do.
Here is a Kirby Allison interview with Daniel Wegan--the 20119 winner of the World Championship in Shoemaking. Some interesting techniques and some interesting perspectives here. Very much worth watch and very inspiring.
Kirby Allison / Daniel Wegan interview:
[BBvideo=560,315]https://youtu.be/RL-CYj94L1c[/BBvideo]
Here is a Kirby Allison interview with Daniel Wegan--the 20119 winner of the World Championship in Shoemaking. Some interesting techniques and some interesting perspectives here. Very much worth watch and very inspiring.
Kirby Allison / Daniel Wegan interview:
[BBvideo=560,315]https://youtu.be/RL-CYj94L1c[/BBvideo]
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Re: The Gallery
@homeboy
Yeah...the upper stitching at 21spi! At some point fairly early on in the video you see a close-up of the uppers. the stitching is very very...I mean very...consistent and regular--it's beautiful. At another point there's a shot (it's only for a moment) of the welt stitching...at 25spi!
Wegan might very well be the best contemporary shoemaker in the world I don't think I've ever seen anything or anyone better in this day and age.
Yeah...the upper stitching at 21spi! At some point fairly early on in the video you see a close-up of the uppers. the stitching is very very...I mean very...consistent and regular--it's beautiful. At another point there's a shot (it's only for a moment) of the welt stitching...at 25spi!
Wegan might very well be the best contemporary shoemaker in the world I don't think I've ever seen anything or anyone better in this day and age.
DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
tough to follow the world championship shoes - but keeping the thread going with pairs #6 and #7.
Pushed some limits on the cap toes for the wife. uppers a little rough but happy with the heel.
The blues were my first time dying and rolling the topline edges.
Pushed some limits on the cap toes for the wife. uppers a little rough but happy with the heel.
The blues were my first time dying and rolling the topline edges.
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Re: The Gallery
Like them...keep pushing!
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
first norwegian welt.
Oxblood Vocalou, suede tongue.
really enjoyed making these and learned a ton in the process, naturally. Heel seat really needs some work, which seams common for my shoes. not sure what's going on since it's the same midsole and outsole as the rest of the shoe which smoothed out and polished nicely. Same process - different result. probably need to spring for a slide box wheel iron thing. hmmm. Anyhoo, here they are.
(and when, as a maker, do you stop seeing a pair as just a collection of mistakes?) (....ugh....)
Oxblood Vocalou, suede tongue.
really enjoyed making these and learned a ton in the process, naturally. Heel seat really needs some work, which seams common for my shoes. not sure what's going on since it's the same midsole and outsole as the rest of the shoe which smoothed out and polished nicely. Same process - different result. probably need to spring for a slide box wheel iron thing. hmmm. Anyhoo, here they are.
(and when, as a maker, do you stop seeing a pair as just a collection of mistakes?) (....ugh....)
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Re: The Gallery
Nicely done.
Hopefully never...(and when, as a maker, do you stop seeing a pair as just a collection of mistakes?) (....ugh....)
My advice to all my students is:
"Upon completion of a pair of shoes a maker should always look for three things to improve upon in the next pair...no less than three things lest he fall prey to complacency, no more than three at peril of false pride."
Without mistakes you never learn.
DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
a little behind in posting.
Pair #9, finished back in August, was a pair for my 2nd daughter's Godfather. Oxblood Vocalou, baker insole, milled kip lining.
Pair #9, finished back in August, was a pair for my 2nd daughter's Godfather. Oxblood Vocalou, baker insole, milled kip lining.
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Re: The Gallery
Pair #10: Finished in Sept for myself. Dark Brown Vocalou. Modified the toe of my typical round last to get a slight chisel and made some huge leaps on learning how to get the waist tucked in there.
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Re: The Gallery
^ These are beautiful. I can see you refining your skills everytime you post. Good on you.
DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
bcFour....great shoes and progress! Tip of the hat to ya!
What one man has done....another can do.
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Re: The Gallery
thanks to both of you! The high bar you guys set really gives the novice (me) a target to aim for.
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Re: The Gallery
Unlined, hand-dyed Vegano french calf, double sole chukka. AK- my new everyday beaters
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Re: The Gallery
ok, so these sort of escalated. I wanted to make a more casual shoe for someone that, really, only wears casual shoes. The rocket is a surprise since he is a total space nerd. The inlays and many extra pieces got the patterns and closing to be a little....complicated. It all meant the welting and sole stitching (yes, hand stitched despite the low spi) became the easy part
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Re: The Gallery
"Back in the Saddle again." A whimsical conflation of a man's saddle shoe with a few Western boot sensibilities.
Horween 'waxed flesh', Annonay saddle, box toe, 1-3/8" 'military' (Cuban?) heel.
Horween 'waxed flesh', Annonay saddle, box toe, 1-3/8" 'military' (Cuban?) heel.
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
Great Job Dee-Dubb! Me likes 'em!
Adios, Jake
Adios, Jake
What one man has done....another can do.
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Re: The Gallery
classic, no frills oxford. went of the less-is-more approach.
recently acquired some new (to me) finishing tools. made all the difference in the world being able to get some edges crisper and 'finished'.
recently acquired some new (to me) finishing tools. made all the difference in the world being able to get some edges crisper and 'finished'.
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Re: The Gallery
Nice looking shoe. Very clean. Less is more!
DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
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Re: The Gallery
A rather different type of shoe and shoemaking: This is a reproduction for the Bata Shoe Museum, and now part of the "Tutankhamun - Discovering the Forgotten Pharaoh" in Liege, Belgium of one of several shoes found in the tomb of Tutankhamun (so from 1323 BC probably).
The side walls are covered with a mesh of almost 500 square and round beads, the closing needed almost 400 rings of 2.5mm diameter to be brazed together. With the original these were all gold, for the reproduction I had to use brass for cost reasons. The original coloring of the leathers is lost with this one, but most likely it was a combination of green and red. The green dye was done with copper verdigris, for the red I used madder. Leather was most likely fat/oil tanned and the color/dye only painted on the grain side as can be seen on other finds. The repousse work on the gold insole (also brass in the reproduction) mimics that of the contemporary sandals made from plant (palm?) fibers.
Best,
Martin
The side walls are covered with a mesh of almost 500 square and round beads, the closing needed almost 400 rings of 2.5mm diameter to be brazed together. With the original these were all gold, for the reproduction I had to use brass for cost reasons. The original coloring of the leathers is lost with this one, but most likely it was a combination of green and red. The green dye was done with copper verdigris, for the red I used madder. Leather was most likely fat/oil tanned and the color/dye only painted on the grain side as can be seen on other finds. The repousse work on the gold insole (also brass in the reproduction) mimics that of the contemporary sandals made from plant (palm?) fibers.
Best,
Martin
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Re: The Gallery
And here is the other one of the 2 Tutankhamun shoe reproductions for Bata and now in the exhibition mentioned above. Rather different from the first one, the decoration relies a lot less on gold with fine cutwork being in the focus, although it still is enhanced with gold rivets. Again, we do not really know from the condition of the find what the color scheme was originally, but a combination of green and red seems likely. This, as all other details for both shoes where discussed and decided with Andre J. Veldmeijer, egyptologist, archaeologist and leading expert in ancient Egyptian leather research (and initator of the idea of reconstructing these!).
Leather and dyestuff choice are as for the other shoe, i.e. brain/fat tanned leather, dyed with copper verdigris (green) and madder (red). Both the front/toe and the back parts of the strap complex have a papyrus core covered by leather. Again we find the decorative chess pattern to frame the main decoration, achieved by weaving very thin strips of leather through vertical cuts in the covering material.
Leather and dyestuff choice are as for the other shoe, i.e. brain/fat tanned leather, dyed with copper verdigris (green) and madder (red). Both the front/toe and the back parts of the strap complex have a papyrus core covered by leather. Again we find the decorative chess pattern to frame the main decoration, achieved by weaving very thin strips of leather through vertical cuts in the covering material.
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Re: The Gallery
@martin
Lovely, intricate work...almost boggles the mind.
Lovely, intricate work...almost boggles the mind.
DWFII--HCC Member
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Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.