"The Art and Mysterie..."

[paul]

Ok. That way all of the control for heel height stays in the front panel when using a standard 1/2" draft on the back panel.

I found it's not that easy anyway to get such a steep draft, almost 3/4", to spread and lay evenly on the counter at the margin line.

I think I just needed to ask the question to get my thinking lined up. Thanks for helping me clear that up.

Paul

[farmerfalconer]

Im confused! After reading through lots of the Art and Mysterie I have picked up some new vocabulary. What is Crimping? I thought I knew what blocking was but then I saw the word crimping used where I thought blocking was proper I became befuddled Also what are cruel boards?

Thanks!
Sincerely,
Very Confused AKA Cody

[kemosabi]

Crimping and blocking are two words for the same thing.
Cruel boards have more angle, thus making the leather stretch more into a bend (closer to 90 degrees) which helps the upper settle properly down on the last during lasting.

Don't feel bad, I'm still befuddled most of the time!

Cheers,
-Nat

(Message edited by Kemosabi on February 04, 2013)

[farmerfalconer]

Thanks Nat!
Cody

[dw]

This is a very interesting photo essay...I wish it was all one link but...Pay particular attention to bespoke #4


http://therakeonline.com/atelier-luxury-designer-brands-artisans/gaziano-girling -1-designing-the-shoe/

http://therakeonline.com/atelier-luxury-designer-brands-artisans/gaziano-girling -bespoke-2-the-measuring/

http://therakeonline.com/atelier-luxury-designer-brands-artisans/gaziano-girling -bespoke-3-the-making-process/

http://therakeonline.com/atelier-luxury-designer-brands-artisans/gaziano-girling -bespoke-4-the-unique-lasting-process/

http://therakeonline.com/atelier-luxury-designer-brands-artisans/gaziano-girling -bespoke-5-the-fitting/

http://therakeonline.com/atelier-luxury-designer-brands-artisans/final-gaziano-g irling-slip-on-shoes/

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[center]Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.[/center]

[tjburr]

DW,

Thanks for posting these.

Terry

[dw]

Terry,

You're welcome...

From 2009, burnishable water buffalo.

15220.jpg

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[center]Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.[/center]

[dw]

The other (medial) side--the "difficult" side.

15222.jpg

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[center]Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.[/center]

[elfn]

The shoes I'm wearing have a single piece kangaroo lining. It wasn't too difficult to do, just attention to detail.

[dearbone]

DW,

We have known and seen that shoes can be made in one piece leather with or without seam. My question is what are the pros and cons of making a "One piece boot"? Seam in the back and provided a 3d shape for leg and calf to be crimped and stretched and cut.

Nasser

[jesselee]

Nasser,

I have made several pairs of one piece boots with a back seam as many high end officers boots were made during the Civil War. The whole foot, throat element is very different.

Cheers,

JesseLee

[jesselee]

I just pulled the first one of a one piece boot onto the legger (forming board). Took me 15 minutes. One piece boots are NOT crimped as in full Wellingtons, nor is a crimping screw or crimping board used. It may be possible, but why invent the wheel. These ones will have an inside side seam, very difficult on a one piece boot as all the leather stretches at about a 45% angle unlike on a full Wellington. I will get some pictures when they are made.

DW,
Nice job on the one piece shoes. They are fun to make at best.

Cheers,

JesseLee

[farmerfalconer]

Wow. That was a great article. Thanks for posting. He talks about when burnishing you are actually burning the leather. is that true? wouldnt it hurt the leather?
Also, How is that bracing done for the trial fit?

Thanks,
Cody

[dw]

Wow. That was a great article. Thanks for posting. He talks about when burnishing you are actually burning the leather. is that true? wouldnt it hurt the leather?
Also, How is that bracing done for the trial fit?

Thanks,
Cody

This is a month stale but if your question was about the seamless whole cut shoe and you will clarify your question abut bracing (?) I will be glad to answer.

[farmerfalconer]

The bracing I was talking about was were they did a sort off whipstitch to hold the upper in place and do a trial fit on the shoe. with a temporary heel.

Thanks,
Cody

[dw]

It's a variation of a whipstitch (you could use a simple whipstitch) that Hasluck describes in his book Boot Making and Mending, Including Repairing, Lasting, and Finishing, by Paul N. Hasluck, London, 1895.

I use it all the time...although a much tighter (and maybe reversed) version...for securing the heelseat on men's dress shoes.

DSCF1629 (640 x 480).jpg

[farmerfalconer]

Oh, thats simple enough. After doing that in the heel do you peg on a rand? If so do the pegs hurt the stitches?
sorry about the delay in response.

Thanks,
Cod

[dw]

Oh, thats simple enough. After doing that in the heel do you peg on a rand? If so do the pegs hurt the stitches?
sorry about the delay in response.

Thanks,
Cod

Cody,

If it's done judiciously, the stitching doesn't come out towards the edge of the heel seat far enough to have any contact with the pegs. The pegs need to be positioned near the edge to keep the rand/heel seat from gaping open when the outsole and heel lifts are mounted.

And I'm still refining that whole area...trying to further flatten and "priddify" the way the leather lays over the insole. Still working on spacing and seating of the stitches. Had to make an awl to do it the way I wanted to do it.

[farmerfalconer]

I see what you mean. Thats good to know.
What is you awl like? A long shallow curve? If you think this sould be moved to a different topic just let me know.

Thanks,
Cody (spelled it right this time )

[dw]

I see what you mean. Thats good to know.
What is you awl like? A long shallow curve? If you think this sould be moved to a different topic just let me know.

Thanks,
Cody (spelled it right this time )

PM me on Friday (I'm going fishing) and I'll snap a shot of it.

[farmerfalconer]

Will do.
Good luck fishing.

[dw]

Will do.
Good luck fishing.

Cody,

Thanks. Just got back. Didn't catch anything but small trout.

I posted photos of the awl here

[paul]

I'm baaack!
I'll admit to being sidetracked by Facebook. Go ahead hate me.
But I'm all for us, believe me.

My interests in making is expanding. I have played around with some different styles and variations on what I'm confident in, that being Western boots. But I have not lost my love for the "Art and Mysterie..."

I've been in a refinement phase, and have been trying to figure out what I need to do to get my boots to stand straighter.
After a conversation with DW, I will heretofore set the tabs of my heel stiffener at the featherline of the heel, rather than 3/4" below/above that.

It's made a difference...

[paul]

Still have a little somethin' goin' on there, but I think I can tree that out.

Torino calf from Garlin Neumann, since discontinued.

[dw]

Still have a little somethin' goin' on there, but I think I can tree that out.

Torino calf from Garlin Neumann, since discontinued.

Those look damn good, Paul...damn good.

The Torino looks pretty tempting, too. Dern! If you've got a small scrap stick it in an envelope and shoot it to me just so I can see what I missed out on! (Actually,) I might have used some of that for a FW, as well...just didn't know it was called Torino)