Nick,
First, I want to make sure you know that I do not have much experience making this type of shoe having only made two, so you can take this response as a suggestion and hopefully others will add advise from a larger experience base.
The first boot I made, I used this method, the second the method Tim describes. I tried Tim's method since there is a disadvantage to this method; which I will describe later in this post.
Since it looks like you have already sewed in the lining I thought I would try to describe the first method I tried as an alternative.
This method relies totally on how you stitch the lining in though I think we you can work around that given you have already stitched the lining in.
In the sequence of things, this is your step 5.
Now I will try to use some pictures to describe.
The key point is at the bottom of the quarters in the front and where they attach to the lining.
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To start with I tried to draw an image from the front...sorry for the bad art.
13768.png
When you sew in the lining, you do not stitch all the way to the tip of the quarter (white stitching in image) and stop stitching right before the line that you will stitch the vamp on (black stitching in image) .
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Once you have performed this, you can reach into the upper, where your foot would normally enter, and grasp the lining. If you pull the lining up, like you were reaching in and pulling the lining out of the shoe as much as you can, you will see that the lining clears itself of the stitch line for the vamp.
Since you have already stitched, you might be able to unstitch at the tip of the quarter, our you could cut a "U" shape in the lining (green line in image) to effectively do the same thing.
13770.png
After this is sewn, you can lift the vamp and sew the tounge to the exposed lining. I then sewed an additional line just outside the vamp, across the quarter to stitch the tounge in better and hold everything in place (purple stitching in image).
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I'm not sure where exactly I picked this up, but I believe it was in both one of the older books (pre-1920) as well as hinted at in George Koleff's Designing manual (he uses a fairly different lining pattern). I may be mistaken, I believe this is similar to a description in Tim's book as well, though not exactly for this type of boot.
Now to the DISADVANTAGE....
If your vamp does not closely match the quarter it can be difficult to sew exactly where you wish without causing puckering. Of course gluing the vamp to the quarter allows you to move the leather around and stretch some prior to sewing. So it is not impossible or terribly difficult if you stitch and fold accurately, but it does require more exactness. In the case of my first boot of this type, I had a greatly different quarter leather which the thickness differences effected the orange peel effect of the back seam. This showed that this method was sensitive to this.
After doing both methods, each had their own challenge, trying to sew.
Like I said...I have not even made many lasted shoes, and you can see from my previous gallery posts I am still working on improving things. But at this point you can probably test fit to see if it works.
If this does not make much sense, I can try to re-word.
Thanks
Terry
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