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[relferink]

Mack,

You seem to place the leather and rubber just opposite from what I do. Truefully I can't remember if the way I do it is because I was taught that way or if it's the repair experience that sneaked in, considering the rubber wears quicker and may be be replaced more frequently thus the rubber beveled slightly to "overlay" the leather.
No right or wrong way, it's whatever works.
I can't envision how you would blind nail the leather piece. Do you place a nail in your heel, clip the head and than place your leather top lift piece on top and hammer it down onto the clipped off nails?

Rob

[relferink]

All,

In defense of the poor Autosoler company, the machine has it's place. More so in the repair business than the bespoke business but how does one nail a rubber heel with as small a mark as the autosoler makes? (btw, AP works just fine for me) Just as any other tool it can be mis-used and should not be used in stead of skill but in combination with it.
When I started in shoe repair it was made clear that if I wanted a future in the repair business I would have to do without my conscience. I will not comment on the reason why I didn't stick with shoe repair but that's a place where the autosoler is often abused.
It's up to the individual to use the tools in a responsible and appropriate way. Not that I think Saint Peter will judge us on the use of the autosoler once we get to his gate but what do I know?

Rob

[dw]

All,

Marcell made this comment in another thread

In the last 25 years my trade almost disappeared here. I can't imagine the situation in the State(s)

Why is it so bad in Europe and even worse here in the states?

I think it goes without saying that circumstances alone, if not expediency, is defense enough for the autosoler and like machines (what is the difference between an autosoler and a pneumatic stapler?)

The only thing standing between the us and full demise of our Trade, is the brave men and women of The Honourable Cordwainers's Company. Without their long suffering efforts the terrorists win.

Seriously...we can be tolerant and even encouraging of all kinds of technology and all kinds of approaches--it's all recorded here, after all...even the mis-information--but the Guild and the forum exist to try, as good naturedly as possible, to avoid incorporating the seeds of our own destruction into whatever future exists for our Trade.

All by way of saying that it is not enough to be tolerant of those things we might find "not to our personal liking" but to some extent we also need to be protective (preserve and protect) of the things we do find admirable.

Well, thats 4¢...much more and it'll add up to real money.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[dearbone]

7081.jpg

DW,

a while back, when we were discussing fudge wheels,you mentioned that you were looking for #10 wheel,I thought at the time,I had another #10 fudge wheel, but when I found it, I noticed it was bigger than#10, Anyway, this morning when I picked up the same fudge wheel, i noticed for the first time,that there was something inside the handle and when i twisted the handle and opened it, there was a #10 wheel inside the handle. If you still need one, It is yours for the few dollars shipping cost.
Regards
Nasser.

[dw]

Nasser,

Thank you!! I'm grateful. Email me with what you need for it and I'll send a check.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[jenny_fleishman]

Help! Does anyone have a source for shanks for low-heeled (1/2-3/4" ) shoes that are SHORTER than 4.5 inches long? I am at my wits end after spending an hour trying to cut a shank using the limited tools I have (no vise), and also hindered by lack of grip and arm strength. [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/sad.gif"%20ALT="sad[/img]

I scored the shank using a hand saw--actually, all three hand saws I have in the apartment (also tried on a grinding wheel, and a jigsaw to no avail) and then tried to break it using two pairs of pliers. Can't do it.

Are there such things as shanks for children's shoes available that might be shorter than 4.5 inches? I am going to have this issue with every pair of shoes I make for myself, so I'd like to find a practical solution for this problem, if one exists! Thanks for any info or advice...

Jenny Fleishman

[das]

Jenny,

Are you wedded to the idea of steel shanks? For that heel height I routinely make shank-pieces out of hard sole leather, which work fine--make them as wide as you can to fill the area inside the inseam (if there is one), skive and sand the edges to blend with your bottom curves, and extend them back to fill the heel-seat inside the lasting margin of the quarters. Otherwise, you might be able to cut them from a rigid plastic? I know fiberglass(?) shanks are all the rage these days because they pass through the goon squad's x-rays at airports without setting off the bells and sirens

[jenny_fleishman]

Al,

That sounds like it might be a great solution. How hard does the sole leather have to be? I can't find any heel lift leather at my finder anymore. They do have precut leather soles, but I'm not sure if they're stiff enough. Do you wet the leather to form it to the curve of the last? Do you stiffen it with press cement? I am very intrigued by this!

Do you use something different to fill the forefoot area between the lasting margins?

Jenny

[relferink]

Jenny,

I bought some of these shanks,

7189.jpg

slightly over 4” some time ago from Goetz. Item nr. 78101809, metric size 15x 1,2 x 108.

Hope this helps

Rob

[jenny_fleishman]

Thanks, Rob. What would you say the heel height would be? How do you order from Goetz? Is there a distributor in the US for the shanks?

Jenny

[relferink]

Jenny,

Heel height is easily adjusted with a hammer or even by hand with a little elbow grease. As is they are set for 15 to 20mm. Up to 3/4".
When I bought these we put together a little consortium for a Goetz order. Otherwise try McPherson in WA or Frankford in PA. I believe that they both deal with Goetz. They may be able to special order them for you.

Rob

[das]

Jenny,

Just try to use the stiffest sole leather you can get. You can try using press cement for added stiffness, but I've never done that. Leather shank-pieces are very "traditional" in men's handsewn welted with those lower heel heights, and while they work fine they are not as rigid as a steel one obviously--no standing on the rung of a ladder and having no flex IOW.

[chuck_deats]

Jenny,

A Dremmel rotary tool with an abrasive wheel will zip shanks or any small hardened steel to whatever length you need. Working with lasts, as you do, I think you would find the tool handy for many other tasks. Seems I remember an early post of someone even using one to cut the holdfast in the insole, plus, you can store it in the closet.

Chuck

[jenny_fleishman]

Chuck, I have some Dremmel wheels that I've on occasion used in a drill. Not sure exactly what type of wheel you are suggesting or how to use it on the shank (score or cut through it, or grind it down). Here's a picture of two wheels. One is actually metal, but looks too flimsy to use on metal, I think.

7196.jpg

Can you elaborate on the exact wheel and technique you use?

My immediate crisis is resolved. I took the shanks to work and asked the company carpenter if he could cut them for me. He's twice my size and did it with no problem with a hacksaw. I would like to be able to do it myself, though. I'll probably order some Goetz shanks, but if I can cut the longer ones with a Dremmel tool that would be preferable!

I have some other shank-related questions but I'll move to a different thread for that!

Thanks.

Jenny

[romango]

Jenny,

This is what you want. Will easily cut most metal. I use them to shape burnishing tools too. Make sure you get the metal cutting variety. There is a plastic cutting version too.

7200.jpg

BTW, I think slapping shoes may be a result of leveling the heel such that the front of the shoe lays evenly. You really want the heel parallel to the ground, , when viewed from the rear, which usually means the front of the shoe is balanced toward the medial side, rather than totally flat.

(Message edited by romango on March 07, 2008)

[jenny_fleishman]

Hmmm...re slapping shoes...My homemade lasts are flat across the ball of the foot from side to side, so I guess I won't be able to do that.

Thanks for Dremmel info. Will look into that.

Jenny

[chuck_deats]

Jenny, Rick,

You got it. There is a larger variety (a little less than 1 1/2" dia.) that works even better. Your little saw arbor would probably work just fine with the cutoff wheels. A drill does not turn fast enough for these wheels, but might work.

Chuck

[romango]

re: slapping...

You could leather out the bottom of the heel a bit to get this. This is still just speculation on my part but, every last I have looked at has this alignment.

[jenny_fleishman]

Rick, I don't know what you mean by "leather out the bottom of the heel"...

A photo, or drawing, is worth 1,000 words! If you have a chance, I'd love to see a photo or diagram of this, as I seem to have a hard time translating verbal descriptions into images! [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/sad.gif"%20ALT="sad[/img]

Jenny

[jesselee]

I am looking for some old wooden lasts, the type with the removable cone. I don't care about the condition. I am going for a 1in. to 1 5/8in. heel. Should be a range of sizes, but I will take what I can get.
Thanx,
JesseLee

[dw]

For those looking for topline tape and/or adhesive tape, I have a source--Global Supply at 508 7880077 ask for Steve Shuman.

I got some 2031/1 paper backed adhesive tape and it worked just as I hope it would for attaching toe caps or other pieces that need to be gimped and brogued without gumming up the broging. very nice stuff and you can order one roll. (All the major suppliers want to sell 5000 yards minimum).

Also got some 600cc topline tape in quarter inch. This is the faille weave stuff that bends around a corner.

Anyway thought I would pass that on...

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[john_ralston]

Anyone have a good source for Shark? Hardtke doesn't have a thing, and that is the only place I have ever ordered from.

Thanks,

John

[shane]

John,
I get my shark from garlin-neumann leathers. Make sure you tell them to pick you good ones. They have sent me junk before. I don't have their info in here (house) and I won't be back in the shop till monday.
Shane

[romango]

Garlin-Neumann phone is (603)595-6319

[john_ralston]

Thanks, I will give them a call.

Actually did - very pleasant lady answered the phone and said she would pick me some skins with some nice deep grain.



(Message edited by john ralston on April 11, 2008)