The Gallery

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For Jesse Lee Cantrell:

soles showing pegging, front and back top showing lining

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[shoestring]

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[shoestring]

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Ok,

Here is a couple of shots of the first"Derbys"I have made.I used Buffalo from Garlin,there is a second pair in the oven.I owe thanks to the Colloquy members for guiding me with the correct answers to my many questions.Critcisms are welcome.

Ed

(Message edited by shoestring on July 03, 2007)

[firefly]

Well Ed,

I don't know if a critique is in order. That is a good lookin' toe on those derbys.

I do have one question...How do you find anything in that shop?

Good job,

Mark

[dw]

Ed,

Nice looking shoes. Mark called them a derby...? Looking closely, I guess that's right, but I almost think they are more like a saddle shoe?


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[shoestring]

Mark,
The toe was done coping the way DW demonstrated his wiping method not quit there but working on it.As for the clutter it grows on ya I do clean up once and a while that's when things are hard to find.

DW,
They are a Derby style,when I first saw them I said Saddle.But according to Koleff it's a derby,that's where I got the pattern.And thanks to you both for the nice remarks.

Ed

[firefly]

I guess I had always assumed that the Balmorals were stylized by only the slit in the vamp. Which was refered to as the "Oxford". The shoe with the two piece construction as Ed's shoe would be known as the Blucher or the "Derby" shoe.

I think we refer to most all shoes here that are lace ups as "Oxfords" ie "Saddle Oxfords" which are really Bluchers or Derby shoes.

I'm not really sure as I failed high school history. So don't take my word for it. I do know that Churches charges a lot for them no matter what you call them.

Maybe Lt. Saguto will weigh in on this one.

Thanks,

Mark

[shoestring]

Here's the take I've read and observed.Studying what Koleff had in his book all the stitching on top of the vamp were considered "Derby's" and those stitched under the vamp were called "Oxfords".And when looking through the book"Handmade Shoes for Men" that's how they are presented.And in the "Pattern Makers" book the same thing,Blucher/Derby.

Ed

[lancepryor]

I think part of the confusion is an
America vs. UK thing. In the UK, the oxford is as
Ed describes it, and the shoes with the separate facings are derbies/bluchers or, per John Lobb St. James, "navvy cut."

In the USA, many people refer to any lace up shoe as an oxford and distinguish between 'balmoral oxfords'--the simple split vamp -- and 'blucher/derby (oxfords)' -- with the separate facings.

[jenny_fleishman]

Ed, I am glad to see someone else uses the same organizational system as I do!

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Jenny

[romango]

Just returned from DW's 3 week course in Western Packers. Wow, what an experience. I feel much more confident in my capabilities now. Thanks DW!!!
Here they are:

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Action shot!

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[mrs_hill]

Paul & Tim,

I wanted to show you the finished result of the billet replacement that you both helped me with. \image {billet}

and here is the origional,
\image {origional}
I am not sure how these pictures will turn out. But thank you for your patience and unmeasurable help! I know I am pretty green at all this, but I hope to someday be able to post some beautiful shoes.

[mrs_hill]

I need to try again on my pictures--sorry...

origional:


and the new one:

[mrs_hill]

I need to try again on my pictures--sorry...

origional:

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and the new one:

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[paul]

Dear Brothers of the Full Cut,

Here they are! Good Grief! I bet you wondered if I had to start all over again. But, no. I just had lots of different stuff to do. I'll post a couple more pair later.

So this is the pair I just made, along side of the pair brought to me by my customer. These were his wife's GreatGrandFather's. They have a picture of him wearing these dated 1906. I may have already told you about that part. And just for fun, here's a picture of my customer.

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And then this one last shot. I'll give myself a B+, just because I had to choose three of many different things to focus on to do better at next time. If you know what I mean.

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[paul]

Opps!
Sorry that one was soo big.

Can Emmett fix that?

Here's a better size.

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[paul]

Glad you like 'em!

Here's another pair I just finished using a technique I learned from DW. Fabric Pulls.

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These were to reproduce a pair of little old Acme's for Alice. She's in her seventies and this is her second pair from me. She's just so dern cute!
The tops are milled carving leather from WC, swivel cut and speed beveled. The foot is GH French Calf.

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PK

[romango]

Here are a pair of "dance boots" I just finished. This project was a customer concept. A marriage between a dance shoe, with thin suede sole, and an ankle boot. The rainbow design was her request. When I positioned it I didn't take into account the counter stitching. So it could have been positioned better. Oh well, next time

The heels are wood, covered with leather. The leather is cow calf from Garlin Neumann. I used the Western Packer pattern design, form DW's book. This worked very well. The last was made by a cast of the customer's foot, as mentioned in previous post.

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(Message edited by romango on August 09, 2007)

(Message edited by romango on August 09, 2007)

[proxy_posting]

The boots are 1860's but I took period artistic licence on the soles. 13 pegs to the inch double at the arch, single for the rest at 7-8 to the inch. The stamping was done with the tools I made (posted) from the square iron nails retrieved from the ghost town in NM.

These are the type of boots which would have been worn by a Southern gentleman, perhaps someone elected as an officer for the cavalry.

JesseLee

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[chuck_deats]

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Pair #7- 2nd pair of 4 piece- vamps from "scraps" of 2 piece- Garlin buffalo tops.
First beaded side welt and pulls. (more care needed here, strip welts much easier).
First toe bug (copy DW instead of developing my own, almost too far down).
First midliner (really like the effect).
First multi-row top stitching (even greater respect for those who stitch tops).
Star from street sign in Cisco, Texas.
Flowers are a poor copy of Lee Miller's tulips. (you can almost smell Lee's tulips).
Solved heel gripping the wood problem by flaring the counter and vamp at the insole per DW's instructions. (straight down before, much better fit).
My list says there are 33 things that need improvement, will keep trying.

Chuck

[bill_harris]

These pictures are of the 6th pair of boots that I have made over a 25 year period. The lasts are J & V TLW 0406.

I call this a "Eastern" boot.

Patterns were made using H.J. Patrick's book.

Learned a lot.

Have a long way to go with my sewing

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This is my first try at posting pictures on the internet.

Bill Harris

[dw]

Haven't posted anything here in a while. Here's a photo that was taken in RAW format and processed for white balance and such.

This is the pair that was donated to the High Desert Museum and auctioned at $4500 for a plain, basic boot and then the customer added the initials and the alligator. The customer specifically requested Times New Roman for the initials, BTW.

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Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[lancepryor]

This is the first pic of one of my shoes.

This is a shoe that I'm almost finished with -- it is made of a blue (!) boarskin, which I picked up cheap to practice with. The skin is actually nice to learn with, since it is very supple and thus is easy to last around the heel and toe.

The last is a slight chisel-toe shape that was very generously made for me by a lastmaker in London.

The outsole was hand-stitched at 10 spi with a square awl and linen thread.

No brogueing or gimping on this shoe, since I don't yet have those tools.

feedback is welcome.

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[lancepryor]

Here are images of the soles, unfinished and almost finished -- I still need to add brass nails to the heel. The bottom finish is mediocre -- that is one of many things I need to improve upon.

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[shoestring]

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This is the pair I had trouble inseaming.They are also made from Buffalo from Garlin.Practice is starting to pay off.They were designed using the geometric method,since these are a test pair the toe cap was omitted.I will use a cap on the next pair trying my hand at broughing next.


Ed