The Crispin Colloquy

Does anyone know if J Rendenbach makes pre-skived toe puffs? I just tried calling Germany and asked if I could speak english...then silence and, click. Perhaps I will have a translator call, to be polite. I have their pre-skived counters, so I am set on that.

I have read from these forums that wet-split is ideal, yet others dry-split. I have come to the conclusion that I need 3-5oz leather for toe puffs and stiffeners for men's dress shoes and that it be wet-split, but I have not found anyone with bellies or shoulders yet. I tried Southern Leather. Kaufman said yes to every question I asked, so I am weary, but will follow up on monday.

Warkov has 2oz I think, which with enough glue might be somewhat stiff (for toe puffs only)?

I have 6-8oz warkov shoulder which I could have dry split, as I found someone who will do the service for me.

Either way, I am trying to find advice and only spend $100+ once to buy a shoulder, etc rather then make mistakes with something that is less than ideal.

Thanks to those who have responded above, and sorry for the continued confusion.

I forgot to mention that I have a 10oz belly from warkov that I ordered and was going to use for stiffeners, but didn't realize it was so thick. Now that I can split leather, would this work at all to split from 10oz to ~4oz?

(Message edited by producthaus on November 24, 2010)

greetings, years ago I bought something called "rhinoflex" from Stanbee, to use as heel counters. They will only sell in massive quantities now, so I am wondering if anyone knows of a similar product. It has woven fiber embedded in the plastic. thanks, Sharon

Sharon,

Try Erkoflex or Agroflex. I don't know where you are located but these are available through National Shoe in Canada. They are offered in different thicknesses, I think the Erkoflex is firmer.

What is some good black shiny cowhide I could use for boots and shoes? I'd like something not super expensive but something others have tried and liked.


Thanks,
Courtney

Courtney,

If you like a little bit of texture consider the Garlin Neuman burnishable buffalo. It polishes up beautifully and is really nice to work with. I'll post a photo in the gallery of some shoes made with it.

I thought that didnt come in black?

What's that stuff cost? I think prices can be quoted if youre not the one selling it?

Please correct me if I'm wrong, OR if you could email me until admin says its O.K. maybe that would be better?

I'm not sure I like texture, but all the stuff I've seen on here made from that look nice.

Thanks,
Courtney

Jon, Courtney,

Theoretically, prices that are not directly or indirectly associated with sales or personal profit by the poster can be quoted. Sometimes such prices are a necessary aspect of the information being conveyed.

Prices associated in any way with personal profit or sales being handled by the poster may not be quoted under any circumstances. A request for "more information" in private correspondence is the approved work-around.

That said, we like to discourage the posting of all prices and if it is possible to request and receive price quotes via PM or email, that is the preferred course.

PS:last I heard...last contact I had with with GNL...Burnishable buffalo comes in about nine colours.

Emmett--in the spotlight

I stand corrected. I went back and looked at my sample card and there are 9 burnishable buffalos

Sharon,
I know the product from Stanbee RHINO and used much of it for foot orthotic reinforcement and heel counters.I ran into the same problem.Try Moritz, 1.8 mm from Euro International,Tampa,Fl.
Also I use erkoflex,2mm for toe boxes,from Atlas International in Sacramento,Ca.
Fred

Just finished this bag with hides from Mark Staton Co. ..Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus) These hides Mark has now are the finest I've ever seen. They were a pleasure to work with , as is Mark.

John,
Wow, that's lovely! I'm pleased to hear that Mark has some extra good stuff right now. His leather is always top quality and he's a super nice man.

Lisa Sorrell

Could someone tell me what is "pull up" leather, and why it is called so?
Thanks.

Alex,

It a chrome or retan leather that has been stuffed with oils and which when bent, folded or spindled , lightens in colour as the oils are squeezed out of that particular area.

Most oil tans will do this to some extent but pull up are specifically "engineered to" do that so that the leather may look distressed.

I'd go so far as to classify ChromeXcel a pull up.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Does anyone have a source for off-white or gray waxed suede? Horween carries this style as 'Chamois', color 'Perla', but they have not run it in some time.

All,

Recently got an email from Andrew Parr at Baker Leather. Whether a newly established policy or something that no one really knew about, Baker is now prepared to sell and ship small lots of perhaps one or two insole shoulders. I don't know about pricing but I assume there will be a small-lot charge, even if only for handling.

Shipping (and customs), which was such a daunting aspect with larger bundles, can be expedited via UPS or Federal Express, according to Mr. Parr. I'm not saying custom charges will be waived entirely (although once upon a time if materials were designated for your business, customs fees were virtually nil) but brokerage fees and the attendant delays would probably be taken care of or non-existent.

All this makes ordering from Baker much easier and far more attractive considering the premium nature of the goods.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

DW,

Would it still be advisable to order as a group or does this make that less of an issue, in your opinion?

Rick,

Might be half dozen of one six of the other, as who should say.

On the one hand, a group buy will probably get a better price. on the other hand large shipments come into country at an East coast port (last time it was in New Jersey, IIRC) and then it has to be picked up by a brokerage firm and warehoused while it goes through customs. that takes a while is fraught with misunderstanding and delay and the brokerage fees are relatively substantial. I'm not sure that whatever you save with a group buy wouldn't be soaked up by brokerage fees.

If the firm has a minimum order that exceeds what the individual is capable of handling, large orders are the only option.

I thought that Mr. Parr's response to my question about small orders, meant that the individual shoe/bootmaker would now have a better chance of seeing what Baker is all about and even making it a "go-to" insole material. It increases the availability factor quite a bit, in my opinion.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Where can I find leather with this type of satin/wet finish? How would I describe this leather if I wanted to ask a supplier for it?

Where could I get a small amount of leather suitable to make a pair of unlasted side-button moccasin shoes? I don't want to buy a whole cow. Just a small piece.

Diane,

Most leather store will have scrap bins (usually really big scraps) or try http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm

for bargains.

Baker might be willing to ship via Royal Mail. Their international service is called 'Parcel Force Worldwide'. I have a lot of woolen cloth, worsted and metallic laces made for me in England, and I specify Parcel Force. The shipping cost is slightly higher than UPS but you don't incur any brokerage fees, and I rarely have to pay US Customs. I think if the declared value is less than $500 it passes right through. I usually have the package within a week of being shipped.

Nick,
I am guessing on the finish of the work shoes. Looks like Chrome tan that has had a a coat of lacquer applied. There are several brands, Clear-Lac is one. Not sure how well it would hold up.
Chuck

Hi Nick,
I've only just seen those boots through Chuck's posting.
Looks like a satin finish to me. Usually they are sprayed on before the shoe or bag etc is made up. I've done a lot of colouring and recolouring leather. We had a spray boot set up with extractor fans and used guns to apply the various dyes and finishes.

To get a look like that the leather is cleaned with say meths (Methylated spirits), then if necessery dye is applied -spirit or waterbased. Next comes the pigment, which is like a paint on the surface as opposed to a dye. Then a top coat of lacquor and finally a sealer.

As for ordering the leather it's probably best to send a sample or picture maybe.

More power to y'awl
Tomo