My first attempt at channel stitching came after I saw a video of George Koleff doing this with fuse or piano wire. It works and it's easy.
But of course, using piano wire or steel guitar string was probably not an option in 1767--when Garsault wrote
Art du Cordonnier. Instead shoemakers of that time, and undoubtedly earlier, used bristled thread much like the thread much like we use for inseaming or hand stitching the outsole to the welt. I knew of the general technique but could never figure out how it was done.
It wasn't until DA Saguto published his translation of
The Art of the Shoemaker (
Art du Cordonnier) that I saw how I might do it with bristles. As Jake is fond of saying--"What one man has done....another can do."
But why would I want to? Simply because every skill that I learn increases my range and my understanding and my ability to reach the next level. Plus...in the right frame of mind...it's interesting, challenging and
fun.
So...the next step is to create and bristle our threads. This is nearly identical to work most of us have done before and I decided to use four strands of thread like I might use when outsole stitching. After all, outsole stitching is really what I'm doing here...just in a little different manner.
I made up two twelve foot threads--one of contemporary long staple, wet spun hemp and the other of Teklon.
Like almost everyone who has unsuccessfully tried to get good boar's bristles, I use nylon fishing line for bristles. And since nylon can be cut to any length, I decided to cut my bristles twelve inches long.
And why not? No harm nor foul, as far as I can see. Nylon Bristles may be easily straightened between the thumbnail and the index finger...or allowed to remain curved to follow the interior of a shoe. Or, in the case of inseaming, deliberately tip-curved to match the path of an inseaming or sewing awl. Nylon bristles can actually be straightened, curved, and re-curved in the opposite direction...effortlessly and at will.
I split the bristles...as boar's bristles may be split...and wrapped and counter wrapped my taw. I waxed the taws and the split ends of the bristles with black hand wax and the rest of the thread with beeswax.
All of the following photographs are of the Teklon thread being used simply because...in my opinion...Teklon is one example where modern materials trump (are superior to) Traditional materials.
So...a couple of thoughts regarding hemp vs. Teklon: Good, truly long-staple hemp or linen is very difficult to find. Regardless of the quality, as an organic fiber it is vulnerable to the bacteria that thrive in a hot humid environment such as a shoe--it is food for both the bacteria, and perhaps for thought. By comparison to Teklon, linen or hemp is weak, weak, weak...inherently weak...although I admit to being heavy handed when tightening stitches. One strand of same diameter Teklon is stronger than three strands of hemp or linen yarn. Four stands of bare Teklon are stronger and more rot resistant than twelve strands of well waxed hemp. Hemp's greatest attribute...IMO...is to hold a Traditional recipe handwax and lock the stitch. Some handwax recipes stick to Teklon better than Traditional recipes. 'Nuff said.
As mentioned, I channel stitched one shoe with hemp and one with Teklon. Four strands in each case. I used a white, rosin based hand wax (for cohesion and strength) covered with a liberal application of beeswax on the hemp.
The taw notwithstanding, nothing but beeswax on the Teklon.
The hemp broke twice. Once when I pulled too hard down in the toe of the shoe because the thread had twisted a little (or crossed itself) and I feared that the stitch was not pulled tight to the insole; and once again when a broken strand in the thread refused to be pulled through the hole.
The Teklon never even thought about breaking, even when I tightened the stitch extremely tight.
One other thing about Teklon--it flattens evenly and consistently. An attribute which is essential to doing this work without wire...as the next installment(s) will illustrate.
Here is a photo of the Teklon thread ready for use.
DSCF2857.JPG
More to come...