miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

[dw]

I've done a bit of repair in my time and if I had my druthers I wouldn't touch this job with a ten foot pole. But Rob is right, the best way...the right way...is to use a last. and don't take the boot any further apart than you have to. Take off the sole. Peel back the upper from the insole in the heel area but don't take off or undo any welting unless it goes all the way around the heel.

Now beyond that and in answer to both of your questions...first, most custom cowboy boots are made with a counter (cover) and the heel stiffener, period. And I've seen top shelf English riding boots constructed in a similar fashion.

Yes, the heel stiffener touches the foot when the boot is worn. And because it has an innate stiffness and a substance far and away greater than any lining leather, you virtually never have to worry about it breaking down the way this one did.

Take the lining out...maybe use it as a pattern. The heel stiffener will be sewn in along the top edge, through the upper. The bottom edge will extend far enough (three-quarters to one inch) to fold over the insole around the heel. That margin will have notches cut into it all along that edge. Notches that go right to the line of fold over.

If the last you are using has a metal heel plate, the upper and the "tabs"(created by notching) can be drafted and tacked right through the insole and the tacks turned on the metal plate. Or it can be sewn in, by hand, using something like a whip stitch.

How you deal with the sides will be determined by the original construction of the boot itself, but the easiest way is simply to sew it through the upper, again.

A Patcher (29k) can do most of this but personally, I am not that good with a patcher. I'd make a hash of it, I'm sure.

Finally, pre-molding it will only make stitching in harder. You have to figure on wetting it after it is in and shaping it to the back of the last, after the fact--either through a process of lasting or some other way such as, perhaps, wrapping the whole boot with elastic or lining leather straps. And when a heel stiffener is prepared for a cowboy boot, the grain side is broken with the bottom wheel on the finisher. Just to take the glaze off. You don't need to grind it.

So...having said all that, I repeat...forget about it. Tell your friend his boots are tired and need to be re-tired.

Besides, I'm just making this up as I go along.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[dw]

Tom,

One other thing because I know I did not make it clear--the stiffener needs to be skived (use a five-in-one) on the top edge the bottom edge (be fore notching) and possibly on the sides. The skived edge on the top and on the sides (if "sides" there be) can be further refined with a skiving knife such that the edge nearly dissappears. The bottom edge can also be treated this way but it's probably unnecessary.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[tomo]

DW and Rob,
thanks for your help, I'll organise a pair of lasts for the job shortly, as I can't see myself not trying - nothing to loose and every thing to gain.
If someone asks me if I can do a job I almost always say yes, especially if I haven't done it before as there's a better than 50% chance I can do it, might not make much money but I'll learn something I didn't know, either way.
Thanks again guys.

More power to y'awl.
T.

[jenny_fleishman]

I am far away from being at this point, but may, in the future, make shoes for others (as opposed to myself and friends and family). I am concerned about liability. Do professionals on this board have liability insurance? If someone trips and falls wearing shoes you've made for them (due to a defect of the shoe, or not) and sues, what kind of protection/liability is there? Thanks!

[paul]

Jenny,

I can understand your concern. And I have had similar worries when my hand wringing is at it's worse. It's one of the first things that would come to my mind when a working cowboy would ask for half soles on his boots. Heck, what if the splice came undone and he got hung up in the saddle and drug behind a runaway horse for 5 miles!

However, I say just go for it. Use discernment, of course, and don't be afraid to say no to feet you are unsure of. I tell those customers of my limitations and my premise to do no harm. In the case of the above mentioned cowboy, I sell him a full sole instead. And if I should do a half sole there, are ways to do the job that insure it won't come undone.

I also believe it is possible to call trouble to ourselves. You know, like the more we say a thing the more likely it's gonna happen. Fear is the biggest monster any of us as humans, has to slay to move forward in life. Keep gaining confidence making shoes for family and friends, but at some point just dive in and say yes to life!

This past weekend, at the AGM, I met Georgene McKim, a fellow maker just getting her business started, who has a huge challenge. In an effort to do marketing, she donated a pair of shoes to an auction. Who should win the auction but one of the most challenging fits she'll likely ever to face. But in the process of fulfilling her commitment she's learning major stuff. That's facing the fear.

I also believe in the power of intention, that "do no harm" premise. If you intend to serve with am honest heart and follow thru with all the information you can gather to do the best job possible, you'll win in the end. For example, make sure you have enough toe spring and if someone should trip, you'll be able to explain why it's not your work that's to blame.

Look into insurance, I have some liability insurance in my business policy, it's a necessary evil in today's world, but don't let fear stop you from becoming all you can be.

Power and success to you,

PK

[dw]

Jenny,

I too have liability insurance. I don't recall if it is a "broad" coverage or not but I don't recall asking to be indemnified against tacks inadvertantly left in the boot (which I did once... years ago. The tack ends up pointing like a spear at the incoming foot when the last is pulled and then swivels around to point away from the heel when the foot is completely in the boot, so that now the foot has to pull against the point of the tack to get out! I hate it when that happens), or anything like that.

But back to business...I think that any good liability coverage--the kind that you would get with any business policy--the kind you get to prevent people who stumble coming in the door from sueing you--will cover you. Be sure to ask your agent, though.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[jenny_fleishman]

A couple of months ago, out of curiosity, I called around to some insurance agencies re liability insurance. Only one of them thought they could find someone to provide it. I forget the amount of the coverage (it might have been only $50,000), but the premium would have been between $600 and $700 a year. Does this sound reasonable? (I had no idea what kind of figure to expect!)

[paul_opperman]

Hi Jenny,

My wife and I have a $1,000,000 personal liability policy that is $15 per month ($180 per year)in California. That is an umbrella policy in addition to what comes with house and car insurance. They only asked if we were celebrities or politicians. There were no other questions and I did not press them about if it covers my business, too.

Paul

[jenny_fleishman]

Thanks, Paul. I don't own I home...I rent, so I think that makes it harder. I have calls in to 2 insurance agencies, but neither was sure if they could find something for me. Apparently there aren't too many novice shoemakers trying to set up a business, and they're not too sure what to do with me!

[tomo]

I know some of us have trouble with high humidity or dampness in the air that causes our tools to corrode and rust, in my case it's also exasperated by living on the coast, well I came across an article in a magazine that sugested using Camellia Oil as this is the only (?) oil that's absorbed by the steel, it's suppose to be nonstaining and was used by samuri sword makers.

I did a Google search and it's readily available from wood working supply shops. I haven't tried any yet so I'm just passing this on for what it's worth but I will get some ASAP and give it ago.

More power to y'awl

Tomo

[dw]

Tom,

Great tip! I've never heard of the stuff. I don't really have a problem with tools rusting so much--I live in a fairly dry climate, although you wouldn't know it this past week--but I'd sure be interested in your results. If nothing else, it might serve to keep the smoking pit from rusting during the winter when it doesn't get used much.

Is it food safe, do you know?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[tomo]

DW,
I downloaded this from a Chinese pharmaceutical website, so I guess the answer to your question is yes.

Camellia Oil

Camellia tree is a special oil plant native to the southern area of Yangtze River in China. It can live for hundreds of years, blossoming in winter, bearing in autumn. The long time is like child bearing, so it is called rare fruit. Camellia oil has been regarded as emperor oil for generations. In the book Tian gong kai wu, Professor Song Yingxing highly praises its delicacy. The book Country diet recipes says: camellia oil can moisten lung, remove heat, calm wind and help mind. The book Gang mu shi yi records it can lubricate bowel, cool stomach and detoxicate. Another book Living and diet recipe praises it as daily essentials for good cooking for it can make hair smooth and bright. Because it is the lightest and clearest oil, it won't be allergic and harmful to all kinds of patients.

Modern pharmacological researches show, the content of unsaturated fatty acids in food is significantly negative correlated with coronary diseases. So olive oil containing a lot of unsaturated fatty acids was recommended as healthcare nutritional edible oil helpful to human health by WHO long ago. The content of unsaturated fatty oil in camellia oil is more than 90%, exceeding that of olive oil, so do its function. Both oils contain an active component squalene which can concentrate oxygen, counter fatigue and anoxia, promote immunity and function of stomach and intestine. Thus camellia oil has double functions, praised as eastern olive oil.
Camellia oil is widely applied in personal care formulations. From the view point of chemistry, the basis of camellia oil is OREIN acid is not easily oxidized, Property of camellia oil is similar to the ingredient of human skin, so that camellia oil fit with hair care and skin care. Olive oil also has similar property to camellia oil. Both of camellia oil and olive oil are not easily dry. However, camellia oil exceeds olive oil in content of OREIN acid and chemical stability (including not easily to be oxidized). Camellia oil can help human body to protect from the stimulation and destruct e.g. ultraviolet radiation, sunburn that resulted from the outside aroundings. It has a good disinfecting and germicide effect. The camellia is used for treating tinsea. The components of camellia oil moisturize, soften, and protect hair, and provide it with moisture and shine. Meanwhile shampoo formulated with camellia oil is effective in cleaning dandgruff, easing prurigo and protecting from losing hair. Camellia oil contains vitamins, A, B &E and various minerals, P, Za, Ca, Fe, Mn, and Mg. Comellia oil is one of the most rapidly absorbed oils making it an excellent choice as a facial oil. It has been used for centuries in China to protect and nourish skin from wrinkling.

We provide camellia oil with different specifications for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and edible applications.

I would suggest that where they say that it's not easily oxidized would be the reason it inhibits rust etc.

More power to y'awl
T.

[jenny_fleishman]

Finally got an insurance quote...for liability only, $1 million coverage, it was slightly less than $1100 per year. Not as bad as I feared, however it would still be expensive for a part-time business...

[Hubley Leatherworks]

Hi everyone,

This will be my first posting to the board but I believe in learning from mistakes (and sharing the misery).

Check your tape measures!

If any of you are like me, you have a favorite flexible tape measure that you use to take measurements with.

After a couple of loose fittings, I had a 'light bulb' moment and checked my tape against a steel ruler.

25cm steel ruler = 26.25cm on flexible tape = time for new tape measure.

Mind you, the tape was 15 years old. Da**, I liked that tape.

Hope it helps someone.

Sean
Hubley Leatherworks

[dw]

Sean,

Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy!

Great tip! I had the exact same experience early this summer. I even found that one of my aluminum rulers was off. But like you, the big let down was that my favourite tape measure had stretched and was no longer accurate. Of course the paint and printing was wearing off to...after thirty or so years....so it was due for retirement, anyway. I have a really nice tape measure I got from The Last Word as a gratuity (ahem) but it's hard to handle. Awkward and froward. Or maybe it just makes me froward.

Anyway..welcome again.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[btippit]

Sean,

Welcome!! When the industry went from cloth to plastic tapes a couple of decades ago we noticed that the plastic tapes measured the lasts about 1/32" (0.794mm) bigger than the cloth tapes did. This was because you are measuring not only the last surface but the thickness of the tape and the plastic tapes are thicker than the old cloth tapes. So at Jones & Vining (where I was working at the time) we turned a plastic "Setup" model that was very easy to measure without "too much" variation from person to person. This model measured 8 5/8" on the ball. Being plastic, unless someone placed it in severe cold or heat it wasn't going to swell or shrink much. That Setup model become our "master gauge" for cutting the tapes (and later for calibrating our CNC lathes).

We didn't leave excess material beyond the zero point on the tapes. Instead we had always cut them off so that the tape lined up with a steel ruler. When using cloth tapes if you placed a new tape on a dependable steel ruler from a company like Starrett and lined up the inch marks from about 7-11 inches, the zero lines would vary from tape to tape. So we began cutting the plastic tapes so that the end of the freshly cut tape was our zero point and the tape measured the Setup model at 8 5/8". That way we knew it was measuring the same way the old cloth tapes measured and new lasts being shipped would measure like previous lasts on the same style that had been checked with cloth tapes.

My point after all of that digressing is that if your tape stretches but you can still get the gut area in the 7-11 inch range to line up with your steel ruler you can cut the end off at the end of the ruler and you'll basically be back on center again. At least you'll get a few more months or years out of it.

DW. Maybe I sent you a left handed tape by mistake.

Bill “The Last Man Standing” Tippit
www.globalfootwearsolutions.com

[dw]

Bill,

That would do it! Dern it! What a fellow you are.

What's worse is when I'm simultaneously trying to write down all the data with one of my left handed pencils--got a whole case of them from the dime store--and I'm right handed all the way.

What's really bad, though, is when you have a tape that measures one way for the foot and another tape that measure another way for transferring measurements to the last...and a steel ruler that doesn't agree with either one of them.

I'm looking forward to getting a good fit from now on though.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[btippit]

DW,

That reminds me of when we had a new guy just hired in the last factory at JV and we sent him looking for a left foot pattern on a certain style/size. Every time he brought us one we were able to convince him it was a for a right foot. After about 3 times he figured out we were just turning it over. I think this was the same guy we sent after the "plate stretcher" when we acted like a heel plate was too short for the last....which it was but he didn't know we were holding a size 8 plate up to a size 10 last. Good thing I've mellowed with age or I'd be playing mean tricks on our cat all day.

Bill “The Last Man Standing” Tippit
www.globalfootwearsolutions.com

[jenny_fleishman]

Heel counter leather...does anyone have any suggestions on the type of leather to use for heel counters in low heeled dance shoes? I find that rigid heel counters in commercially made shoes hurt the back of my heels near the top of the shoe, so I am looking for something that would give support, but not be completely rigid. One thing I am thinking about is skiving the upper half of the heel counter to almost nothing, so the lower part of the counter gives stabilization, but the upper part is not too hard. I need something that would be stiff enough at the bottom, and could be thinned to be flexible at the top.

I am considering veg tan cow as I gather that is often used (not sure what part of the animal or what oz would be best). I don't want something real bulky as I hope to make the shoes not clunky-looking. www.hidehouse.com has some pig veg tan for $1.50 a square foot, 3-6 oz., and I'm wondering if that might form to my heels better than cow veg tan. Any suggestions appreciated.

Jenny

[tomo]

Hi Jenny,

is it the heel counter that's hurting or the top edge of the shoe?

If it's the latter then I don't think using different heel counters will help as much as making a nice flat, smooth seam around the top (and without too much back curve in the heel shape) will.

Al will know, I'm sure.

As for the pigskin, I don't think it will be substantial enough... you do a lot of fast turns and tight cornering on the dance floor, the last thing you want is to blow a tyre!

More power to y'awl
T.

[lazya]

Jenny,

Hard rolled horse butts from Seigel may work for your counters, it's what I use for welts.

Dan

[jenny_fleishman]

Tom...it's both. The back of my heel is fairly straight, with not much fleshy padding. About 25 years ago I tried to wear in a pair of shoes that were rubbing the back of my heels, and messed up my feet instead. I had to wear clogs for about 6 months because if anything touched the back of my heels, it would be painful. Although that improved, I have since always looked for shoes that do not curve in much at the top of the heel. (Even the soft padding around the top of athletic shoes is irritating.) In addition, I put some foam pads inside the heel of all my shoes in the lower part of the counter, PLUS every day I stick a little strip of Dr. Scholl's Foot and Shoe padding on the back of my heels below where the top of the shoes would rub. (My skin is pretty raw after 25 years of this.) This is the main reason I've decided to try making my own shoes!

The shoes that I made with Glen Leasure are made of 6 oz. chap sides, very soft, with a second layer of the same leather cemented on with Barge and stitched as well, on the outside of the shoe to add support at the heel. The back seam of the shoe is designed without much curve to match my foot. These are the most comfortable fitting shoes I've had since my foot "injury." However, I would be using thinner leather for dance shoes, am planning to line them, and I think I probably would need stiffer support in the heel counter for dancing...but not for about the last inch or so at the top of the back of the shoe, as this is where it would hurt.

Dan...just how hard are those hard rolled horse butts? What oz. would you use for a counter in a dress type shoe? Would it work for toe boxes as well? (I have to admit I'd get a kick out of telling people my dance shoes are partly made of hard rolled horse butts!)

Jenny

[dw]

Jenny,

Truth to tell, a good many of the commercial low heeled dance shoes don't have any heel counters in them...or none to speak of at any rate. Cardboard mostly.

I think you are on the right track with skiving the upper half of the counter but if you pre-form it over the back of the last you may not need to skive it as thin as you think.

I use 10 iron plus soling leather for my counters but if you're looking at horse butt you might also look at horse shoulder (that's what I use for welt). It isn't hard rolled but just by it's very nature it's pretty dense. If you use something with a little natural give, it may conform to whatever irregularities on the back of your heel you have--just like an insole forms a footbed.

I don't know what the conversion would be off hand but I think the welt I cut from the shoulders is about 6 iron--one-eighth inch in other words---what that is in ounces, I don't know.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[jenny_fleishman]

DW, and Dan...why horse instead of cow? DW, are you saying it has more natural give than cow? What does "hard rolled" mean? Is it a pressing process to make the leather denser? Is cow not as dense as horse?

DW, all the low-heeled dance shoes I have purchased (and tried on) seem to have rigid heel counters in them. The only dance shoes I have seen without counters are "jazz" shoes, which don't have a shank, either. Unless I am misusing the word "counter" completely, which is possible.

I have to say I continue to be amazed (and somewhat overwhelmed) at all the different types of leather, tanning, etc., and impressed with how much you all know about it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Jenny

[Lisa Cresson]

Jenny -
Although it is not often talked about, the heel curve is a aspect of last production; and maybe your search for a unique heel would be complimented with a custom last in addition to research on the right materials that support without injury for the heel counter.

The old modelmakers-lastmakers had metal cut templates to match the heel curve after thewood last was cut. Heel curve was part of the last markings, and the shape of the heel curve was related to specific foot type. Problem now is that the feet are changing, and many no longer fit the old models.

Carl Litche uses a carpenter's shape register with pins to mark the profile of the customer's heel and copies that to the custom last. You could try the same. Send me email off line for more specific information.
Regards,
Lisa