The Crispin Colloquy

Rick,

I presume you're talking about full cut vamps.

I move the vamp onto the cruel board, attach the iron at the corner and tack top and toe. Then I run the whole deal under the warm water faucet for a couple of minutes.

I think the reason DW shows this way of doing it, is so you don't loose the crimp at the break.

What leather are you working with?

Paul

Paul,

You learned the lessons well. Good on you. That's the way and the reason I do it too.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]

I might add that before I tack the toe and heel I tighten the corner iron until the leather at the break pulls down to within a half inch or so from the blade edge of the board...at the break. This allows the leather in the break to settle into its new position without adding undue tension along either edge.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]

My first go with alligator. It's not a whole cut but I'm having fits with just normal vamp crimping.

Rick,
Is is a glazed or a matte finish? I don't enjoy crimping glazed finish alligator but matte alligator usually lays on the board like it was born to be crimped.

Lisa

Lisa,

It's Staton matte American Alligator.

Are ridges like this to be expected? Seems like there is no way the scales are going to compress, so ti all has to be stretch at the edges.

Rick,

It's hard to tell from the photo but I would give a qualified "yes." The very nature of the leather--the disparity between the density of the tiles and the interstices--makes some bunching at the break almost inevitable. If your lasts and top patterns are good, a great deal of that will last out especially if you are lasting "seats up."

That said, I am not always happy or even content to see those ridges ans will try to bone them out as far as I am able.

And, in my experience, the Mark Staton alligator is as soft/flexible as you're gonna get in American Alligator. (a good thing)

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]

I can see that would be a concern Rick, especially as much as it costs and being a first pair. But I'd trust the process as DW suggests. You'll be fine.

However, allow me to throw my 2 cents in another direction.

When I took my first order for Alligator, I recalled the many repairs I've done to the "interstices" as DW calls them. It's the space between the "rock and a hard place", and it's bound to be where they'll break out if it's going to happen.

SO I talked with Mark about it(isn't he incredibly will to educate?). He led me toward purchasing a huge skin (sorry for not recalling the size), whereby I was able to get both vamps from the same skin, side by side.
It crimped like butter! Furthermore, and more to my point of concern about the welt edge and stress on the vamp over years, it places the flank area along the welt line. I placed them at the medial side, at the ball, where most often a boot will breakout from repeated flexing. These more irregular tiles will distribute the stress over a greater area it seems to me, and not subject to repeated bending in the same line.
Here is how my last pair came out:

Preliminary steps for a full cut chukka:

Horween Beaumont

Howdy all!

I had a feller reach out today asking if I could do hemp vamps and counters covers on a pair of boots for him. I was wondering if anybody has used a fabric to make western boots and if anyone had any tips for doing so. I was thinking about backing the fabric with a lining leather so I can still stretch it and what not? Just trying to figure the best way to give some support.

Thanks in advance,

Jake

I've seen shoes and boots with canvas or linen backing the leather to prevent it from tearing or stretching, but never vice versa boots...with fabric vamps and counters.

FWIW, I've always said that when you get right down to it--past the fancy work and fooferaw, boots are,in their hearts and purpose, fundamentally tools. Seems like making 'em with fabric defeats the purpose.

IMO only...YMMV